Do those chop saw style chain grinders work good?
As good as the operator. Not trying to be smarty here, but they do take some careful setup and adjusting to get it right. And they remove material "fast" so can eat up a good chain in a hurry or burn the steel if too aggressive.
I much prefer 'by hand filing' as it is less aggressive and I get a good sharp tooth.
What appears to be going awry?
Maybe this chain is too far gone.
I normally just buy new ones so I have like twenty that need sharpening.
They sure cut great when they are new!
Could you post a good closeup of the chain you suspect is too far gone?
Even a cheap grinder or Dremel attachment will get a chain sharpened like "new", as long as you are careful using it. So will a simple file, with some sort of guide if you are not an expert.
Unless a chain has be seriously abused it's never "too far gone", unless there is like no cutter left to sharpen. Even if it's hit rocks, or been filed wrong etc you can still carefully grind or file away the damaged or blunt part and get a good sharp cutter with 90% of it's life left.
Learning to use a file is a VERY good skill. Lets you touch up a chain in the field as soon as it looses it's edge. Means it only takes a couple of file strokes to freshen up the edge. When you let it get REALLY blunt you need to grind away a lot of material to get past the rounded over edge of the cutter. So you chew through a lot more of the chains life to get it back into shape.
If you saw through a nail or something, then you might want to slap on a spare chain, and tidy it up later with your grinder.
Ian
It's a nice hybrid between hand-sharpening and gadget-sharpening. The extra piece of metal hanging off is to help sharpen the depth gauges. After you use it awhile you get the feel for the proper angles.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16732/sharpening_guide%7E3.JPG)
The Pferd/Husqvarna "Sharp Force" files/guides are a pretty easy way to sharpen a chain consistently.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/product-accessories/filing-equipment/sharp-force-file-guide/
Woodking,grinding has got a bad rap due to hardware store kids in a rush.Get a good grinder like the Origon one from Italy.Follow the instructions and only grind lightly.I used one exclusivly for 20 years and had very long chain life would sharpen several times without changing the adjustment.As with a file the secret is keeping your bar out of the dirt and rocks.I go boath ways now, file and grind,it keeps your angles honest. Frank C.
Haven't used it yet but looks to be a well made though out unit. Comes with three different size grinding wheels.
Jim
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31755/8279366.jpg)
I know in this area at the local school they have night classes on saw maintenance and sharping is taught too. I had a REAL HARD time too at sharping. I finally got frustrated with myself and took a log and kept sharping and sawing until I got it right. There must be utubes on it.Maybe someone could show you what they do? Once you get it,its very simple. Don't think you can't do it either. There are many devices to hold a file too.
I did forget to mention,mark where you start so you know where to stop. Very important to take the same amount of stokes and TRY to keep the same pressure on each tooth too. Some take the chain off and put it in a vise and others put the bar in the vice to sharpen. When you are still learning to sharpen,keep track of what you are doing.If it gets better you are doing something right.
Quote from: thecfarm on February 27, 2013, 09:24:38 AM
There are many devices to hold a file too.
You're right.
And I use one like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/Detail_BarMountFilingGuide_23736A.jpg)
Back in the early 80's when I was in the firewood business, I would take my dull chain to the saw shop and have them grind it, to sharpen it.
Then one day the fellow who ran the saw shop was out.
Another guy was there and said he couldn't run the grinder but he could file it for me to sharpen it.
He did.
It cut so much better.
Another day, I asked the saw shop guy to teach me how to file.
He handed me a file and said "go at it".
I had a real hard time doing it and holding the file correctly all the time at every tooth at the correct angles.
My roommate at the time had one of the Oregon filing guides he used to hold his file correctly.
I went out an bought one right away.
I have used it every time I sharpen my saw since.
I am very happy with the way it sharpens.
You can set the angle for the tooth, the up angle if you want one and the depth as well as the spacing. There is no chance you're going to file it wrong, in my opinion.
Now they tell you to find the worst tooth and sharpen that one first. Count the number of pushes you do to sharpen it. And do all the others that much. This way all the teeth are the same length.
I tired that back then.
I found that if I just sharpen each tooth 10 strokes then most all of them will be very sharp.
I know some will say 10 strokes is too much but this is what works for me.
Sometimes 10 strokes isn't enough for the worst tooth. So I may go around a second time. Or just sharpen again very soon after.
Understanding how to lower your rakers is also important.
Jim Rogers
I've been using the Granberg version of Jim's guide, for many years. I've tried, and failed, to find anything better. (Meaning: better edge and/or less metal removal.)
Free-hand filing is simply random; honest users will admit to periodic visits to the grinder.
Guided filing is quick, simple, precise. Minimizes metal removal. Some experts use such a guide on brand-new or just-ground chains to take them to peak performance.
I keep a Granberg guide in my field bag, so I can touch up a chain in the field. Takes only a couple of minutes unless it's been rocked.
There's a certain "zen" about setup/use. Once you get it, you've got it. 20 minutes show&tell with buddy weaned him from dealer's grinder; guide was ~$20.
Often, 2 strokes is plenty for a touch-up. 10 strokes? ::) NO.
My "guide" is the Oregon version, and it sits on the shelf in the box after using it a very few times. Much too long to setup, IMO.
I don't take chains to a grinder although about 6 chains ago I did get into a nail in a log so it went to the grinder.
Hand filed with the file holder guide some, then just hand filed with the bare file. That was working well as long as I paid attention to the hook (depth of file cut).
Then I tried the Pferd blue guide (shown a couple posts back) and it is simple and very easy and almost just as quick as drop it on, couple good strokes, and on to the next tooth. Prolly 5 minutes for filing both angles with the saw bar in the bench vise.
And I think I am an honest user. ;D
Well, I haven't used a grinder or a guide in 30 years. But honestly, I'm not a full-time logger, either.
Guess I'm not an honest hand filing. ;) My chains have never seen a grinder,even after hitting a rock. I think if I took mine to have them grind at a saw shop,$7-8 each? I cut alot of stumps down very close to the ground,that's where's the rocks come from. I get real good at sharpening.I am in the process of clearing a grown up pasture. I won't even talk about the maple that grow in a clump with 3-8 stems growing out of one stump. Start cutting them down low and most times I have to resharpen half way through the stump.
What this thread shows is there is more than one way to keep a chain sharp. An expert can do it freehand with a file, us mere mortals can use a file and guide, and there is the grinder option which is fine as long as you you are careful.
Some methods take a bit more practice than others. ;)
But with all those options, there is no excuse for a dull chain :D
Ian
I may not be an honest hand filing,but I'm no expert either. :D
If I tried another way now,I would have to relearn how to do it all over again. I had enough trouble just learning one way. ;D
I hand filed 30 yrs, full time logger, the thing is once you can get the feel of the file in your hand, the right angle, the pitch, the depth of the file in the cutter, and watch the cutter get sharper with every stroke of the file. It might be one stroke or ten if you hit something, once the shinny edge is gone its sharp. The rakers have to be cut randomly as you file the chain for it to cut properly.
Grinders work great and are easy to run, set the tilt on 60, the angle on 30 and most important get the wheel low enough so the side of the wheel hits the face of the tooth. Also grinders used right take no more off than a file sharpening, just touch the face of the tooth when grinding unless rocked out then both methods will take off just as much to get rid of the damage. Steve
I've had two chains ground that I can remember and that was in the early 70's.
Chain filing is a learned art which some pick up easily and some never do get good at. The only way to get good at it is to do it .
Now I do have a Dremel but the only time it ever gets used is on a badly damaged chains .Last spring I repaired about 20 damaged chains I got from a trimmer bud ,I used it then .It took a best part of a day but they were all high priced Stihl chains s so it was worth the time spent
i file by hand on the tailgate with the tip of my bar pushed into that 90* corner where the tailgate closes. thats how i learned about 25 years ago. ifi 'need' to do it in the woods ill cut into a stump for a makeshift vice. some guys i know toss a chain when it gets back to the witness mark. dad and i always kept those around cuz they are getting just about right for cutting hardwood. we typically file them down to the point where ive seen the tooth break off during filing and they cut like a mo'fo up to that point. ill take about any chain a man wants to junk if i think it has any life in it.....as long at its full skip :)
I guess I fail to see the mystique. I hand file most of the time, and have an el-cheapo harbor freight grinder for other times. The grinder keeps the shape nice and easily fixes the screw ups from rocks. When hand filing, I use my finger tips to know if it's sharp or not, much like when I sharpen a knife. If it feels like it could slice my skin with any pressure then it's sharp. I never paid much attention to how many swipes I took per tooth. I just sharpen until each tooth is sharp. They seem to cut just fine & last well. They cut much faster when freshly sharpened, just like when new.
My old man on the other hand, is a filing genius/purist. That old man is quick at it, too. He's always barking at me about how I sharpen and how my chains should look like his. But when we're both into wood, there's no noticeable difference in cutting speed. Sharp is sharp regardless how you get there, IMO. I hit too many rocks cutting stumps & burls to keep pretty chains.
I used an oregon clamp on guide for several years. When I started sharpening a lot I tried freehand filing and have been doing it that way ever since. If I have time I give the chain 1 or 2 strokes when I fill up the saw.
I can do ok with a file but I like the results from the timberline sharpener better.
http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/ (http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/)
that timberline sharpener looks way cool.
What is a full skip chain?
QuoteWhat is a full skip chain?
Only has 1/2 the cutters. Just links in place of the other cutters. Works best with longer bars / larger trees where you wouldn't have enough power to run a full complement chain.
Ian
thanks ian,
i just ordered my timberline sharpener.
-Greg
Heres about the simplest way to keep a chain sharp and straight and learn how to free hand.
Buy a Carlton file-o-plate from Baileys, $3.59, this is the only tool you need, besides round file , flat file and handles. [ Check this out ]
http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/carlton_fileoplate.pdf
Heres a example of it in action, i wanted to show you this, see the shinny edge on the cutter, when filing watch it disappear, when the skinny edge is gone the cutters sharp. Make your filing experience fun, not a job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21649/IMG_0344b.jpg)
Quote from: lumberjack48 on February 28, 2013, 11:44:30 AM
Heres about the simplest way to keep a chain sharp and straight and learn how to free hand.
Buy a Carlton file-o-plate from Baileys, $3.59, this is the only tool you need, besides round file , flat file and handles. [ Check this out ]
http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/carlton_fileoplate.pdf
Heres a example of it in action, i wanted to show you this, see the shinny edge on the cutter, when filing watch it disappear, when the skinny edge is gone the cutters sharp. Make your filing experience fun, not a job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21649/IMG_0344b.jpg)
Thanks for posting that lumberjack48, very very nice information there. 8)
Carlton"s File-O-Plate was my training wheels when I started running a saw, then I graduated to freehand. The File-O-Plate is the simplest bestest little tool you can have in your wedge pouch, or saw kit bag, whichever you use. One thing about those Stihl chains-they is made out of some powerful HARD stuff, If you don't have a premioum sharp, good file, forget trying to had file a stihl chain, just my experience.. But once sharp they do cut very nice!
Thanks for posting that lumberjack48, very very nice information there. 8)
+1
I may just order one for myself. :)
I invested in a Silvey grinder about 15 years ago, still works fine and I've never been sorry I made the investment. Company is great to deal with. You'd be surprised how many "friends" you have when they find out they don't have to bring their chains to the saw shop to be sharpened!!!
Of all grinders Silvey probabley has the best reputation .
Thanks guys, i feel the simple why to learn is the fastest. If a person is never told what to look and watch for it takes forever to learn.
The file-o-plate is also used to clean the bar rail out. I used to always have one in my wallet.
I liked Stihl chain just for that reason, they held an edge longer. And yes you need a good file, my last yrs felling i used a Nicholson file. I kept it clean and kept it in the package it came in. If nobody else got their hands on it, i could get two weeks or more out of one file, in stead of one every 2, 3 days.
Yeah, Nicholson used to make some good files. I'm not sure that's still the case though... I think the production has been farmed out overseas now.
Handling a file is one of the first and hardest lessons for a young machinest,its such a simple tool yet complicated to master.When I file I prefer to use a bare file, but you tend to cut the gullets too deep, so I use the clip on plate.Its well worth the time to learn to file correctly. Frank C.
Frank, I assume you are talking about one of these:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16836/2596/Oregon_File_holder.jpg)
That's what I use, along with one of these for the depth gauge:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16836/Husky_Depth_Gauge_tool.jpg)
I prefer the style like this (or the Carlton file-o-plate) that slants down over the tooth and around the raker that precedes it, since it sets the raker specifically for the tooth that follows it. This makes keeping all of your teeth identical in length far less critical.
One of these days, I'm going to try one of those little roller gauges, with the little depth gauge built in, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Quote from: beenthere on February 27, 2013, 01:04:46 PM
My "guide" is the Oregon version, and it sits on the shelf in the box after using it a very few times. Much too long to setup, IMO.
I don't take chains to a grinder although about 6 chains ago I did get into a nail in a log so it went to the grinder.
Hand filed with the file holder guide some, then just hand filed with the bare file. That was working well as long as I paid attention to the hook (depth of file cut).
Then I tried the Pferd blue guide (shown a couple posts back) and it is simple and very easy and almost just as quick as drop it on, couple good strokes, and on to the next tooth. Prolly 5 minutes for filing both angles with the saw bar in the bench vise.
And I think I am an honest user. ;D
You may well be. And possibly an outlier. ::) (Couple standard deviations beyond.)
Anyway, Granberg or Oregon Italian guides enable you to focus on one thing- the stroke.
What exactly is an Oregon "Italian " guide? Would that be a big bruiser with a flannel shirt and a pair of caulked boots acting as a tour guide in Genoa ? :D
Quote from: Al_Smith on March 01, 2013, 06:16:00 PM
What exactly is an Oregon "Italian " guide? Would that be a big bruiser with a flannel shirt and a pair of caulked boots acting as a tour guide in Genoa ? :D
Hey, if he can do a good job with sharpening chains, great!
Well that is a point to ponder . ;)
Yea,and he uses extra vergin olive oil for bar lube,if your saw leaks, sop it up with your sandwich.There thats the manditory food requirement for this post. Frank C.
The question is what exactly does the word "extra" in regard to virgin actually mean ? It poses an interesting question depending on how you view it .
Rachael Ray keeps touting about it for cooking oil etc .I would think just a plain virgin olive would work for that .
For bar oil I shouldn't thing the olive would have to be all that chaste .
Fact being I'd assume a well used old olive would serve as well as a freshly picked one for that purpose .
:D :D :D :D
Al, olive pits will plug the bar hole.Your right I thought something was ether virgin or not. If Giada was olive oil, she'd be extra virgin.Frank C.
Quote from: Al_Smith on March 02, 2013, 09:18:29 PM
The question is what exactly does the word "extra" in regard to virgin actually mean ?
For bar oil I shouldn't thing the olive would have to be all that chaste .
Fact being I'd assume a well used old olive would serve as well as a freshly picked one for that purpose .
To be inside your noggin' for a day would yield a thousand unforgettable memories! :D :D :D :D
:D Oh nephew if you only knew half of it .Sometimes I even scare myself .
Grinder is the best. If ya got 20 chains to sharpen, you gonna like the, "Chop Saw" grinders. Just don't chop saw into your drive link.
Filing by hand is best for me. I use a small bar guide to check the correct angle of the cutters and depth of rakers. I use a caloper to measure the cutter lengths. The way you file makes a big difference. I met this young guy who, as a logger's apprentice, had to file chains from dusk 'till dawn everyday. Without a doubt he got very good at it. He showed me his technique and I tell you, doing it the right way makes it more enjoyable. I can touch up a chain quickly and continue my work with minimum downtime.
I have a Logosol mill and have found that I can do an excellent job with a Dremel tool. No need for a fixture or any special tools, just use the right size grinding stone.
:-X :-X
I just received my timberline sharpener, man this thing works really well. An idiot can sharpen a chain with this thing.
Thanks for the tip
I was given a timberline sharpener for Christmas and found that my chain wasn't lasting nearly as long as when I payed to have it ground. So I decided to be a little more aggressive in my sharpening , more resistance on the file by tightening the rear screw, as well as a few strokes with the file across the rakers. Well....... It cuts better right up til my bar gets stuck in the cut from the hard left turn it makes every time. Why is it now cutting a curve to the left? I've even put zero force on the bar during a cut and the same thing happens. Hard left curve. A lot like my golf game. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I hope this is the correct place to post this. If not please advise.
Thanks
Rust
Sounds like the Timberline Sharpener isn't set up with the same angles for both left and right.
Or all the teeth are not getting the same degree of sharpness due to the settings.
But not knowing how they work, can't say if that is the problem. Something to check out.
http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/
I use a 10x magnifying lens to check the teeth to be sure they are sharp. Sometimes the eyeball can be deceiving if one doesn't know what to look for. Buddy of mine who cuts a lot of wood always said he filed his chains regularly. On one occasion, I had his saw on my bench and couldn't believe the condition of the teeth. He didn't know what "sharp" was. He filed, but stopped short of "sharp". Partly because he didn't like filing his chain away too soon. ;)
Can you post a good pic of the chain. Do you have 1 set of angle glides or 2 sets. I would check the glides that are inserted in the jig. I'm thinking you have 1 that is 25 degrees and the other at 35 degrees. If that's the case the opposing cutters will be at different angles. I have sharpened many chains many times without issue. It could be me but I think they end up sharper than when they are ground.
Dan
I grew up in a chainsaw shop and I have been using a grinder since I was 5 or 6. My dad did a LOT of business for the loggers around here and he hardly ever used anything but a grinder. You just need to know what you're doing. I always carry a file in my bag, although I much prefer to just throw on a new chain out in the woods and sharpen when I get home.
Ive got the hang of it now. Practice makes perfect.
I have found that it is bad to use the chain till it will no longer cut. It is better to just touch it up occasionally with the file, every 2 or three tanks of gas or so.
My inspiration for sharpening came from the first time I took my first dull chain for its first sharpening and had it returned with the cutters reduced to useless 1/16" pins. I use the Carlton plate, start with the dullest tooth and count the strokes, repeat same number of strokes on all cutters. Also helps if you take a marker and color a tooth as a starting/stopping point. Goes quick once you get a rhythm going.
Well all I know, if a fellow has trouble cutting his beech wood as he has admitted to on this very forum, his sharpening skills need some honing. Steel is harder than wood my friends. ;D ;)
Quote from: Firewoodking on May 21, 2013, 11:59:42 PM
Ive got the hang of it now. Practice makes perfect.
I have found that it is bad to use the chain till it will no longer cut. It is better to just touch it up occasionally with the file, every 2 or three tanks of gas or so.
The best description I've heard about sharpening chains (from a GOL instructor):
You don't sharpen your chain
because it got dull, you sharpen it to
keep it from getting dull.
Quote from: ancjr on May 22, 2013, 12:55:19 AM
My inspiration for sharpening came from the first time I took my first dull chain for its first sharpening and had it returned with the cutters reduced to useless 1/16" pins.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of folks out there who seem to think that buying a chain grinder makes them good at sharpening. I prefer hand sharpening, but regardless of the method, the results depend as much or more on the operator than on the equipment.
How much training do you think the kid at the corner hardware store had at sharpening chains before they set him loose and said "have at it"?
QuoteI use the Carlton plate, start with the dullest tooth and count the strokes, repeat same number of strokes on all cutters.
One of the advantages of the Carlton File-O-Plate (and other similar sharpening aides), is that if you use the depth gauge tool properly, it's far less important to have all identical-length teeth. Since this style of depth gauge tool customizes the height of the depth gauge for each tooth, making the teeth all the same doesn't provide any noticeable difference in cutting (though I still don't let them get WAY out of whack... I'll just eyeball them from time to time and give an extra stroke or two if the cutters on one side are getting noticeably longer than those on the other.
Quote from: John Mc on May 22, 2013, 10:08:32 AM
How much training do you think the kid at the corner hardware store had at sharpening chains before they set him loose and said "have at it"?
Sadly enough, the place I took it to does not allow any of the help to do any repairs - only the owner and his partner are allowed behind the service desk. I no longer live near this shop.
Good news is that since I've moved, I'm just a short hike away from professional chainsaw shop that is the rave of every logger I know. Although I've not had them do any work for me yet, and I'll likely never need a chain sharpened, they surely know how to grind a chain. I'll have them make me a chain some day.
Quote
One of the advantages of the Carlton File-O-Plate (and other similar sharpening aides), is that if you use the depth gauge tool properly, it's far less important to have all identical-length teeth.
This may well be fact, but there's another fact to take into consideration: I'm obsessive about my chains. :)
Quote from: SwampDonkey on May 22, 2013, 05:24:20 AM
Well all I know, if a fellow has trouble cutting his beech wood as he has admitted to on this very forum, his sharpening skills need some honing. Steel is harder than wood my friends. ;D ;)
Oh now here we go again great wisdom from a guy who doesn't even cut his own firewood . :D
Let me enlighten you my doubting Thomas friend about hard beech since you've never seen any .Oh 8-9 or so years a group of us attacked a beech log at a GTG of saw enthusists .That hard as granite log bogged them all down including 090 Stihls .As a rule a dried out beech is hard but that one will go down on record as being the toughest old thing anyone had ever seen .
Really I don't cut much of it just limb falls from a half dozen 100 footers in the woods next to me .Real good firewood .
I leave the firewood processing to the professionals, I just feed the furnace. :snowball: When your beech and maple are the size of broom sticks on your woodlot you often have no choice. Won't be no 20" maple for another 100 years on my woodlot. I did however buck up a 3 cord maple last spring, if that counts for anything, still got a cord of that to burn. ;D
The biggest, smoothest beech I ever saw up here was in a hardwood grove surrounded by 200 acres of potato fields. It ended up being one of the plans the land owner used as an estimate for the next available logger to flatten. Anyway, those beech were about 40 inches at breast height and smooth as smooth could be. Hardwood does not grow real tall up here, but I would say they were in the 80 foot range. And you can't beat the soil type as far as what is available up here, since it was later turned into more potato fields. About 50 acres if I recall.
It would depend on the existing canopy how tall they would grow .In our location that would right at 90 to slightly over 100 feet .
The ones in the woods abutting mine are around 3 feet in diameter and right at 100 along with the big oaks .I don't have any large ones in my woods .12 inchers maybe by 60 feet .Fact I've got one right outside my house .
You get a mature tall tree woods the younger growths look about like weeds before they get tall enough to get into the sun .I've got 80 footers that aren't any larger than 8-10 inchs in diameter growing under 3 feet diameter oaks .No I'm not going to thin them ,let mother nature do that .
The way I look at it if they die or get wind blown they are firewood .If they make it and the Lord tarries my great great great grand children will still have giant trees to look at .It takes over 200 years before an oak and beech gets really large .
Soil and site are the biggest factor , when your talking about being over topped and held back that's just consequence as would having a moose or bear come along and break the top off when it's a sapling, but a factor. Bears have broken down a couple of my oak saplings so now they will grow like a great big archery bow.
Your right, 200 years at least for a 40" incher in the forest. But I got a 36" incher in 90 out in the yard. ;) It takes 60 years here to grow an 8" maple in the woods, and that' if it's not over topped. I tell people that and they look as me like I'm nuts. Been thinning a while in maple woods and it's been going on since the 60's and I never yet have seen one of those sugar maple thinnings with trees big enough to tap yet. ;D The trouble is, there is never, or rarely, an intermediate thinning done around here. As they grow, they need thinning.
I have a yard beech as well, limby darn thing, I planted it when it was about 2 feet tall, it was a transplant actually from the back of the yard. Some blue jay musta dropped the nut when roosting in the spruce, because it was under some 26" diameter spruce. Anyway, that was about 30 years ago, not quite, but it's only 22 feet tall and the diameter is a bit exaggerated because of the limbs, but down low it's 8 or 9 inches. That's what you get for open grown, limbs and they get fat quicker, but no height. Have a white oak about 10" now, 25' tall and been there 30 years. Like that tree in the fall, scarlet leaves. The new neighbors thought it died because it holds it's leaves all winter.
One thing I learned on the forum was that earthworms are not native here. The neighbors are organic farmers and I told them that and it was like I was telling a lie or something. They didn't know about butternuts either, when I told them we eat them, until he went and tried them. He thinks, because someone told him I guess, that walnuts are no good to eat now. Had to educate him on that to about small orchards of black walnut or yard trees that some folks grow in the US for eat'n. ::)
You have no earthworms .What it the world do you fish with ?
We have them around the gardens and lawns and such, not out in the deep woods. Fishing up here when I was growing up was for Atlantic Salmon which could only be angled for with artificial fly. And for brook trout we always fished with flies....sometimes the fly was worn to the bear hook when the water was boiling alive with trout for that fly. :D
Quote from: SwampDonkey on May 24, 2013, 05:22:25 PM
sometimes the fly was worn to the bear hook when the water was boiling alive with trout for that fly. :D
"Bear" hook ? You fish for bears too?
Now come on now I've heard of some fish stories but never of hooking a black bear on a fly rod . :D Imagine the size dip net that would take .
I bet you never heard tell of hooking a ruffed grouse with a fly hook neither. I was fishing along a small stream for trout with my grand father and there was a grouse up a birch tree. He said, watch this. Yup, snagged him in the feathers enough to drag a little line out before it let loose. :D
I caught a sea gull once in KeyWest .That was a mistake .
One of the first things a machinest/mechanic should be taught is how to handle a file.Rocking a file is the reason many have trouble sharpening a chain.Thats pushing the file in a curved arch not straight.When that is done just behind the edge hits the wood first and cutting is poor.If you master moving the file in a straight line at close to the proper angle you got it. Frank C.
The Pferd chain sharp is about the easiest, plus it does it all.