Hey all, I'm still just learning but have my mill running much better now after a motor tune up. It's sawing real good now most of the time. However, Im evidently not doing something right. If I get a log with several knots, sometimes I just can't get it to track properly no matter how many blades i try or what I do. I've tried slowing down, tightening the blade, new belts, etc. Yesterday I just had to give up on a knotty pine, and take it off the mill, yet, when I put on a yellow pine next, it flew right thru it. What can I do?
Randy:
I had a similar problem and the suggestion I received was to check the blade for parallelism to the bed rails.
Sure enough my mill needed some adjusting.
Hope this helps you, but if not it is quick and inexpensive.
Gerald
Some time ago I had a fellow with a mizer saw some pine for me and I ended up with boards like the ocean floor. He went way too fast especially when doing the pine plus I suspect perhaps his blade was not sharp. They were so bad I did not even attempt to plane them. My not knowing at the time why but now thanks to the forum I understand what was wrong.
Jim
If a sharp blade won't cut without waves it may be too little tension.
Thanks all, Leveling the blade and checking the drive belt tension is what they suggest at WM too. I will give it a try and thanks again,
Randy
What kind of guides, you need 1/4" downpressure on the roller or bearing type. Steve
That sporty little tool that woodmizer sells is cheap and handy .For leveling the blade.
Big knots, sometimes you have to slow down, as the blade makes the transition from ripping to crosscutting through the knot. A few thousands more set in the blade, and 7 degree hook angle help me with hardwoods. Lots of info on blade geometry and cutting on the forum. Pitch build-up on the blade also causes the blade to wander.
..., set, set, set, set,set ..... etc.
When I first started milling I was doing knotty pine, and frozen to boot. Some of it was so big we had to trim it with the chain saw to get the mill head to pass over it. We also had wavy boards, and the ONLY thing that solved the problem was correct set.
My experience is this:
proper set and sharp - straight and fast cuts
proper set and dull - straight and slow slow cuts
wrong set and sharp - fast, but wavy cuts
wrong set and dull - slow and wavy cuts
Knotty woods need to have the set pushed out quite a bit. I set at about 0.021" for hardwood and up to 0.030" for pine, spruce and other knotty woods.
John
Some time ago I was having trouble as well. Here is a link to the thread. Lots of suggestions there too.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,63923.0.html
I would also check my drive belt tension. If your belt is just a bit loose you might get some slippage in the belt.