Well, I had an idea the other for a shingle jig that would work with my ML26 Norwood mill. I few feet of 1"x2" box and 1"x2" box steel and some scrap steel laying around and it was done. Cut my first shingles tonight and its pretty slick! It cuts 12" wide shingles up to 24" long. Cut a bunch of 18" tonight. 1/2" at the thick end and 1/16" at the thin. The taper is adjustable from zero to 3/4" in 18".
Time to take this one up for his bath and bed but if its still light out when we're done. I'll get a couple pictures of the jig.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle1.jpg&hash=ce81d7ad10a9743813825c21a181176c76083c3f)
Just plain CUTE. :) Great pic.
I'm hangin out to see your pics. Please.cheers john
Woodsrover,
Do you have photos of the jig I'm interested in giving this a try!
Thanks
Not yet Mike. Snow again today so I stayed in and built a brooding box for the chicks coming on Saturday!
Always nice to see the next generation of sawyers coming along! He'll be taking stuff apart before you know it!
Took some photos of the shingle jig today.
Here's an overview of the whole thing. It'll take two cants and cut two shingles at a time.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle2.jpg&hash=3f4fc8763d61a66b17343ec553b6a68d07c51bbf)
Here you can see the cam that tilts the front of the cant up from level. The four bolts heads you see on the crossbars allow me to adjust the taper from 3/4" in 24" to zero. With the bolts all the way down it cuts about 9/16" in 18" giving me a shingle 1/2" at the fat end and 1/16" at the thin. You flip that lever back and fourth to kick up the front of the cant. With the lever back you cut a shingle starting at the thick end. When that one is cut you flip it the other way, move the saw head down 5/8" and cut the next shingle, thin end first. You can just see the little pieces of 90-degree steel on the bottom that lock into the crossbar on the mill. I have a chunk of wood in the back-rest brackets to hold it from sliding.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle3.jpg&hash=1af19baea64125131d3e6f38f88195ea339a320f)
Another view of the cam with a cant on it. I'm going to drill a couple holes at the back side at the far end of the cant, one on either side, that will help hold the cant down to the jig. Besides that it works very well. Cuts perfect shingles every time!
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle4.jpg&hash=a52aea84004cb14a17c4e42ea90c373d7c52d872)
Now thats a nice job making a shingle jig for your mill, good job 8) 8) 8)
Very clever design! Nice Job!
8)
One hell of a idea,Love it,Just wondering if you would show that on the Norwood's sawmill mods page.It would give some :o ideas for us guys that own a Norwood's band mill. :snowball:
Quote from: Woodsrover on March 20, 2013, 08:32:23 PM
Took some photos of the shingle jig today.
Here's an overview of the whole thing. It'll take two cants and cut two shingles at a time.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle2.jpg&hash=3f4fc8763d61a66b17343ec553b6a68d07c51bbf)
Here you can see the cam that tilts the front of the cant up from level. The four bolts heads you see on the crossbars allow me to adjust the taper from 3/4" in 24" to zero. With the bolts all the way down it cuts about 9/16" in 18" giving me a shingle 1/2" at the fat end and 1/16" at the thin. You flip that lever back and fourth to kick up the front of the cant. With the lever back you cut a shingle starting at the thick end. When that one is cut you flip it the other way, move the saw head down 5/8" and cut the next shingle, thin end first. You can just see the little pieces of 90-degree steel on the bottom that lock into the crossbar on the mill. I have a chunk of wood in the back-rest brackets to hold it from sliding.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle3.jpg&hash=1af19baea64125131d3e6f38f88195ea339a320f)
Another view of the cam with a cant on it. I'm going to drill a couple holes at the back side at the far end of the cant, one on either side, that will help hold the cant down to the jig. Besides that it works very well. Cuts perfect shingles every time!
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fshingle4.jpg&hash=a52aea84004cb14a17c4e42ea90c373d7c52d872)
Great job. I would imagine you could saw quite a few shingles in an afternoon.
Allan
Figured I would show you the shingles on the new chicken coop. All this wood is white pine of our property. Should have the covered run done in a couple days...I'll post pictures of that too.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fchicken5.jpg&hash=4abcbb4e05f498134fb9d551e917d6be2b8a2bb8)
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.seriestrek.com%2Fimages%2Fchicken6.jpg&hash=f93d8e67b9874481cfa2463da786e876e3e2669b)
Very nice! I just may have to give it go, too. I like the chicken coop, too.
I really like that jig, its exactly what I want to build for mine.
I looked at the cam...is it made from steel tubing, and if so, i thought to put a tubing side to side instead of only 2 pieces, one each end. I could make plug welding on the shaft.
What do do you think about that?