I am looking to get a BSM and I know there are several manufactures...
So I am wondering which ones to look at?
I hope to mill say up to 15 foot logs and say 34" in Diameter.
My plan is to do a stationary version and I like the ability of upgrades like hydraulics.
I am looking at the Noorwood and the Woodmizer but since I have not bought anything yet
the world is my oyster.
Would anyone care to venture an opinion on who to look at and why?
Thanks is advance.
; )
If I had a lot of 34" logs, I would look at a hydraulic mill for sure.
I hear you on that ..... but which manufactures should I be looking at?
I had a big long answer for this but decided to go a differant way . Figure out what the most you can spend is and get the mill that offers the most in that price range ! You will never regret stretching just a bit more to get some extra options up front IMHO ! If you don't have some suport equipment a hydralic mill is way more user friendly !
It depends on personal preference. It's like asking which is better Chevy or ford.
Sure, i get your point however, I am not asking which is better, I am asking which should I LOOK AT and why.
For instance Woodmizer is a cantilever style as where the Noorwood is not.
Obviously there are advantages to both .... but never having a mill I am asking the good folks here for some direction.
I figure I will get bias but that is for me to sort out.
: )
woodmaizer and norwood are both excellent products. have you seen any operate yet? the opinion and info are gonna start rolling in! Since I have never had the hydraulics myself, I will be of little help there. I own a norwood and am quite satisfied.
ever going Mobile?
full time?
hobby?
budget?
welcome to the ff jimfx
mark
JimFX,
Read more threads on this board about like and dislikes,
and why certain models were purchased over others.
I.e. Norwood engineered bed Vs. throwing more steel at it.
true 4 post head v Canti
In my short experience I'll ad this:
get as heavy or engineered bed as you can, wood is heavy!!
get as much HP (or look electric/diesel) as you can
get it mobile, you will want to move it or someone
will eventually ask you to "come over and saw some logs for me"
Do not rule out smaller manufacturers often the quality is equal or better
Test drive, test drive, test drive as many as you can.
FWIW, I had a small stationary WM BSM, satisfied with it, but in the end
I wanted bigger, I wanted to be mobile and I learned I wanted a circle style mill.
Good luck
DGDrls
JimFX; First, Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
It is difficult to recommend one mill over all the others here on the Forum's, when you would recommend one particular mill over all of the other ones, it's like putting the rest down, and we have at least 10 bandsawmill sponsors right here on the left side!
My suggestion is to figure out exactly what you want to do, then go and see different brands of sawmills in action and see if they will do what you want to accomplish.
A good number of the sponsored sawmills here will handle the 34"X15' logs you mentioned!
If you will be cutting 34" logs that are 15' long, you will not be able to turn them without hydraulics.
Nice size logs you have!! First off that will take a good size throat to get through the first few cuts. I have a manual mill,and I had a good size white pine on it.When finished the boards were 12 inches wide. I had to use the bucket on the tractor to turn that log. Once I got it down some I was able to handle it with a peavey. But I don't have a steady diet of logs that size. Most times I sell the bigger trees for logs and cut the smaller logs on my mill. The mill I have is made by a small machine shop here in Maine,Thomas Band Saw. I think I mentioned to you about seeing the saws in action at shows,but there was none in your area. Maybe a few members can help out? Even a 3-4 hour drive would be worth to see what is out there.
Welcome to the forum! What is your budget for the mill? Will you be milling occasionally, or full-time? What are your future plans for the mill? What support equipment do you have or plan to add? As WDH says, you are looking at some serious logs. Your mill will need to be well supported to handle them. Especially with your application, you want the biggest power option for the mill.
There is more to mill selection than "Ford/Chevy", though owners of both mills are loyal. The more information you have, the better. Here are some of my observations about the Norwood.
It comes as a kit. It saves on shipping, and why pay someone at a factory to assemble it, when I can do it myself?
There was no waiting on a backlog.
The mill has a good solid feel to it.
A single control for throttle, clutch and blade lube.
Norwood can help you locate a mill near you, if you want to see it run in person (highly recommended)
Hydraulics are optional. You can start with a manual mill and add hydraulics later.
Clamping is flexible. It handles maximum-size logs, as well as oddball stuff, such as short pieces and walnut crotches.
You can extend the track as long as you want.
The Norwood folks are very helpful.
While you will probably want hydraulics to work with the biggest logs, they don't need to come from the mill. I wrap a strap around the log and lift with a front end loader to turn the log. With a little practice, you can position the log with precision. Same for loading the logs, though in a production environment you would want the hydraulics integrated into the mill.
If you can, try before you buy! Last fall I was all set to buy a manual mill like you posted. We have only a few known mills in the state and one was close so I called and WM was gona be there in a few weeks with a couple of demo mills. Needless to say once I ran the manual mill I was gona buy I was back to looking. Found out my body wasn't gona last pushing and turning 34" x16' oak and cottonwood logs! I now have a new, used hydraulic mill! Check any mills and demos you can find around you and talk to Mfg's. of different mills and they should be able to find some for you to see in person.
Not sure the question is what can mill BOTH 34" and 15' (and hardwood). That log would be pushing 6000 pounds. I don't know what portable mill can do that but my Woodmizer LT-40 super can't. If that is the question, then you've narrowed your mill selection down quite a bit already and some phone calls to the manufacturers should get to the bottom of it quickly.
I just got thinking,how are you going to get those logs out of the woods? I have a 40hp tractor with a 3pt winch and those big ones kinda make that 40hp work. :D
I have only seen a Swinger mill a few times. This is where the saw is brought to where the log is and sawed right in the woods. Than only lumber is brought out.
It's really as simple as Jake says. Cooks, TK, WM, Baker etc.. all make rugged, outstanding quality saws. service is top shelf and reliability among all of them is legendary. What will really help you narrow down the options is knowing as much as you can about what you'll be using the saw for. Ditto all the above comments as well.
Some observations...If your going to be sawing even a few logs of the size you mention, get a hydraulic mill. Unless your initials are PB and you own a blue ox named Babe, it is money well spent. WM has two distinct advantages (IMO) over other mills. First, their computerized setworks system is hands down, the best on the market. If this is a major consideration for you, WM will be worth a good look. For some sawyers it is crucial to their production, for others it is not. The second advantage is the cantilevered sawhead. If you will be doing mostly mobile sawing or expect to be sawing alot of big uglies, the monorail system allows the loader side to accomodate non standard log shapes that would otherwise interfere with a 2 rail system. A big advantage when mobile sawing as people and their logs are highly unpredictable. If you'll be stationary, not as much of an advantage.
TK offers an extra large (16") throat on most of their mills. I'm fairly sure that the industry standard is 12", but a quick call to a manufacturer can verify that. There are sawing situations where you may want to split a 30" cant in 1/2, for example. Those extra 4" might also come in handy doing certain QS patterns or taking an extra thick slab off an extra large log.
If structural stength of the sawhead and bed/rail system is a big consideration, have a look at Cooks. They are extemely well engineered and heavy. You would have to make a spirited and sustained effort to damage it and even then you may not succeed. If you're going to be primarily stationary and/or expect to be doing alot of heavy work with the saw, then Cooks may be a good candidate.
Each mill builder has it's own designs, priorities and features that make their line of saws distinctive, yet all of them build high quality, well engineered and reliable products, backed up by legendary customer service. Books can be written comparing all the different designs and features of the various mills (i.e, full hydraulic as opposed to electric-over-hydraulic, steel wheels vs belted wheels etc, etc...ad nauseam), but the best thing you can do is decide as much as you can how you will be using the saw, narrow it down to a few models and then by hook or by crook, find a way to see and perhaps run the saws your interested in.
In the interest of full disclosure, I have ran (but not owned) all the above brands of saws, with the exception of Baker. I include them because our dear member Tom C owned and professionally ran a Baker hydraulic mill and gave it high marks, which is more than good enough for me.
Good luck and keep us all updated. :)
I use a Norwood MX 34 23 HP and it works great. I can do up to 34" in diameter and have done 19 foot long logs. The mill is fuel efficient, doesn't make much sawdust, and has been easy to maintain so far (almost 2 years old).
Some things I have learned now after a few years of sawmilling that I had wished I had considered is. Saw head up n down speed (quicker you can get your blade back and into next cut is worth the extra money.) Two plane log clamp. Bi directional Chain turner is a must on big logs. These would be three things I would strongly consider if you looking at hydraulic mills.
Wow, a lot of replies and a lot of great information ... I see it is going to take a while to figure all of this out for myself. Now I think I have more questions than answers, but that is a good thing because it will help me decide what I want to do here ..... One thing I must do is to cut on a mill myself, perfect way to get some perspective.
Thanks all!
I was looking a manual mills to start with and then I went to the Timber King site .... sweet, what a brute, I think it even stacks it for you ..... of course i'm sure it comes at a price .... if your are doing it full time the answer is easy.
Welcome to FF JimFX.
A swing-blade sawmill may be a good option for you if your going to be cutting that size of a log. I've cut a 32"-34" diameter X 19' long white oak log before on TK B-20 and it's no fun. The hydraulics wouldn't even move the log. I had to do it all with a backhoe and it was very dangerous. I'll never do it again.
Just something to think about.
I can handle your proposed log easily on my Cooks AC 36, but since I have the mega rollers on the mill ; its only 28 inches between the rollers...I could go with the little fellers and get 30 in.....so I guess a AC 36 is out....how often do you actually think you are going to cut a board 34 inches? Not very. Banjo