??? Hi Jim here and thanks to all of you for the great information it has helped me get to the point of taking the plung. Was ready to order new lt35 manual on sale now looks like a good deal. Doing some final searches for used and have found a couple lt 40hd in similar price range. Now for the stuped question older lt 40s do not have a set works or a stop like lt 15 to get accurate consistent lumbe with just the visual scale. Seems to me you would have to get level with the scale each time as you move heade up and down. Am I over thinking this?
Thanks again for all you're wisdom.
I learned to saw on an LT40 manual. You won't have any problem with repeatability with the scale. :) Welcome to the Forum.
I have a 92 LT40HD with no setworks & have no problem with consistency in thickness. I sometimes purchase roughcut hardwood from a wholeseller & my lumber is more consistent than there's. I think your overthinking. :D
When I bought my used mill I took it to woodmizer and we went through it together, aligned everything & replaced some parts. The knowledge was more than worth the cost.
Good luck
I also have an older lt40hd and lumber is consistent as thickness goes, one does not need set works to make accurate lumber.
If you can find an older 40, you can retro fit a set works on it if so desired, just check with woodmizer before buying the mill with year and serial number and they will let you know the possibilities. :)
Depending what you do with the mill, another option that was not available when I got my mill is the debarker, it is also retrofitable :P I don't have one either but the logs I saw are almost all winter cut and if not they are mostly clean, I won't saw wood caked in mud, it ain't worth the agravation. ;)
Thank you for the help I thought so but just asking. I have cut with my sons lt 15 one full turn lock in and consistent 4 quarter. But whin setting up a dovetail jig found important to get directly above scale to get consistency. I know Totaly different equipmeMent but that was all I had for experience. So thank you again for the help.
My 1986 lt40 manual does get a little aggravating when it comes to setting thickness. It's more to do with my impatience than a problem with the mill. Even my mistake boards are at most a 64th off, and usually less. I would be more concerned with the possible repair costs of getting an older hydraulic mill, vs a newer manual, especially if you are at the top end of your budget. After a day of running back and forth around my manual and flipping logs around by hand, I would give about anything for some hydraulics though.
If you're concerned about keeping yourself level with the indicator on the mill, you could do like I did!
My mill (used) came with a plastic indicator with a red sight line that lined up with the scale, so I bought two (2) of the newer metal indicators and put them together with a nut inbetween them and then mounted them on the mill.
Now I look at the indicator and when I can't see the one in back, I know they are perfectly lined up. ;)
chuck white the mill I was looking at has one of those plastic viewers and that was my concern. That's a good idea and now after looking around I have seen some metal viewers sounds good thank you.
Oaklawahaboy
Thank you that is where I am at with my decision learning to saw and learning to work on a mill might be too much for me let alone the surprise expenses.
Thanks to all this imput is great.
Hi JD, and Welcome. I'm in Jax. I started with a manual saw, and later expanded a bit. Repeatability with a manual scale is not a problem. If you're passing through here, feel free to PM me and we can get together and jaw a bit.
Nomad thanks I will give you a shout. I go through Jacksonville on my way to our camp in live oak so will do that one trip.
Thanks again