Anyone here run a Northland Kiln? I been running mine with little or no problem just wanted to bounce some questions off of a fellow owner instead of Jason
what model do you have and how well do you like it? anything that you don't like about it?
I have the NK 3. I like it and really have no complaints. It says you can get 3000 BF in it although the best I have done so far is around 2500. It takes some getting use to the controls and I have put a RH meter from radio shack inside to give another point of reference instead of just weighing the samples.
Any pearls of wisdom? Im all ears.
Kedwards,
Sorry to add another question without any answers to your original post. About the Northland, it appears from their website that this is a heat and vent kiln using electric baseboard-style heaters and an air-to-air heat exchanger for the vent. What type of control does it utilize (heat on/off and vent fan on/off?)? What have the energy costs been for a load? Thanks.
No problem..It uses two control boxes One main and the secondary feeds off the main. The temperature is controlled by a chromalux temp gauge thats tied to the intake vent and outtake fan so it cycles the air as a percent of the whole hour. 17% venting is 17 minutes of cyling. I never run wet wood becuase of the amount of time and babying it requires to prevent cup warp and curl (on and on) You HAVE to do wet samples if above 25% MC anyway. Below 25% MC I have never had a porblem with defects and generally can gradually raise the temp up to the max of 150 to kill bugs mold etc. I always E&C the wood for one day.The energy costs for me to run a full load(2500+ BF) of Red Oak from 25% MC to 6% E&C'd is $56.00
Kedwards, how long does it take to get the above-mentioned RO done?
DanG,
The maximum amount of time it takes me is 6 days. Thats including E&C.
I have a Northland 1000 Modified (it is like the 800 model, but accepts 12' material).
It was written obove that "17% venting is 17 minutes of cyling." I belive this in error...since it is in percentage of 1 hour, 17% would give you a tad more than 10 minutes of venting.
Regards.
My bad..you are correct sir ding ding ding..and for the correct response receive one fabulous piece of case hardened white oak...ohh ahh.. ;)
KEdwards,
Didn't mean to offend...just clarify. It's a little easy to get mixed up on that issue and it can mean a considerable difference.
You can keep the case hardened material...unless it's curly. Then I will take it anyway! ;D
Kinda reminds me. I have some curly red oak I am about to dry. Does it behave the same way?
Hey Kyle! I just took a tour of your website. Good job! I enjoyed it. :)
How are you putting the dowel ends on the legs and braces on your log furniture? I have some material on hand that would make nice rustic pieces, but the leg attachment has me stumped. ??? :P
Steve St..Oh I am not easily offended. I get confused a lot but notoffended :) You are absolutely right about making sure the venting % is correct otherwise lots of lumber problems happen.
DanG, the dowels are made using two things..Either the veritas tenon maker and 1/2" milwaukee hammer drill or the logman tenon maker for various sizes. The forstner bits are what I use for the mortise. I have also used a draw knife and forstner bits when I first started.
Here is a walnut and curly maple chair I just made using both techniques.The legs were complete using the veritas 2" tenonmaker and the back was made using a draw knife. I have bigger pics onthe website and attached the links. The URL may not work right now the blade server is being maintained. If it doesn't connect check back later. Look under for sale last added item.
http://www.sawmillnc.com/images/album/20040521/walnut1.JPG
http://www.sawmillnc.com/images/album/20040521/walnut.JPG
Thanks. I was considering the Bosworth line of tools, since that was the only thing I had found. They seem a bit pricey, though. :o
www.bosworthtools.com/
I've got a bunch of old junk laying around, including some old jointer knives. Maybe I'll just try to make my own. ::)