No pics but I was sawing a little pine log the other day I had put up on some 2x4's so I could cut down to 1" making 1x6's. The older mills only cut to 2"'s so a little lift kit is needed to make the last cut 1". I had just put on a new blade and ran it over the edge of the backstop, just enough to foul up that new blade... I hate when that happens!
If you run an LT40, you should be able to saw down to within one inch from the deck.
If you're not able to do it, your mill most likely needs a realignment!
I have ran my FIL's mill and my own and both will cut down to 1" with no blocking necessary!
The early WoodMizers don't saw to 1". Not sure when that changed, but definitely by the early '90's.
mmartone, what year is your LT40?
Never knew that the early models wouldn't go down to saw 1"!
I finally learned to switch to an old blade before sawing into a clamp or log stop. Save the new ones for nails & fence wire. First time reading your post, I thought you were milling 2x4s down to 1x6 & was going to suggest that you were going to be using a lot of glue!
My '86 LT 40 only goes down to 2". It will only do that if you are working on a cant. If you are making live edge slabs, you can't clam to saw that low. If your cant isn't perfectly squared off sometimes you can't saw that low. No matter what, there is no cutting lower than 2".
Mine is also and 86, 2" min
Not sure where the hold up is on some of these older models, sure wish there were available diagrams availble where some more valubale solutions could be suggested, Only guessing but it sounds like some of these older one might just need a longer chain that operates the up and down, along with any original stops that were designed in the the mill. I think most anything can be modified, the only issue would be dealing with the electronic design, on manual mills there just seems there has to be a way of getting around this stop depth, david
I don't usually mind the thick piece. I almost always can use either a 2" slab or some 2x2s so it all gets used. I'm sure if I saw more for customers, I'll run into someone who is miffed by that but it doesn't bother me sawing for myself.
Why not add some height to the bunks ?? Channel or box tube would be fine. Just tack weld tabs on each side and 1 through bolt. Then, you could remove if needed ?
At 2" the saw assembly touches the bed. The only thing is you can raise the bed some but you lose height.
Fla. Deadheader...that's a really good idea. 8)
i think if there was a way to modify, w.m. would have offered one. maybe :)
"at 2" the saw touches the bed.
Cant you just adjust the scale?
Perhaps i am stupid in this question.
does this just leave a 2" piece?
"I wanted to be like you guys".
Be careful what you wish for......it just might come true. ;D :D
My 87 LT 40 won't even make it down to 2 in. I made a set of 2" blocks to set on two rails when making the last few cuts, takes a little more time but thats the way we've always had to do it!
mmartone Running a new blade over your dogs and stops isn,t all it,s CUT out to be!!! Dont ask me how I know this. Andy
When cutting I try to use the magic man method of boxing the heart of the log so I leave the last cut at 1 1/2 or larger to box the pith. I can always use 2x6's and I have a better board to use. Plus I don't get close to the dogs. My mill will go down to 1", but I don't always need to. Dan