The hydraulic uprights keep going out of square. Makes it about 10 hours. No big impact, lift log on with arms. Bolts are rusted on nut side pretty bad. Was hoping WM service would be here soon but have not heard from them.
Kroil, to start loosening the rust on those bolts,
DGD
One thing I've noticed over the years since I started sawing was we have a tendency to over tighten the clamp when securing a log or cant!
Apply just enough power to the clamp to hold the log or cant.
It doesn't take all that much to hold them in place!
I believe most uprights are bent out of square from large logs rolling agenst them when loading.The uprights on my homebuilt are just slightly out,but I leave them that way I know how much air I should see between the cant and the upright and it makes it easier to swing them up and down.My mill is stationary and level if a piece is critical the second cut is checked with a level,boards, it makes little difference.On the Mizer their should be a way to adjust them short of a big sledge. Frank C.
Quote from: dgdrls on May 14, 2013, 06:43:35 AM
Kroil, to start loosening the rust on those bolts,
DGD
Blue Creeper from LogRite leaves Kroil in its dust, and have used a lot of Kroil over some years. ;)
But when Blue Creeper's predecessor (formerly Rust Reeper) came to light, there were too many successes that Kroil wouldn't touch. Just sayin.... :)
Quote from: beenthere on May 14, 2013, 09:36:00 AM
Quote from: dgdrls on May 14, 2013, 06:43:35 AM
Kroil, to start loosening the rust on those bolts,
DGD
Blue Creeper from LogRite leaves Kroil in its dust, and have used a lot of Kroil over some years. ;)
But when Blue Creeper's predecessor (formerly Rust Reeper) came to light, there were too many successes that Kroil wouldn't touch. Just sayin.... :)
Amen!
+1 to Blue Creeper (formerly Rust Reeper...)
Herb
Never heard of Blue Creeper but I have found great success with PB Blaster... Next time I need some, I'll look for Blue Creeper and try it out...
gr
Might not find it yet in the local hardware.....
Here is a link
http://www.logrite.com/store/Category/bluecreeper
And some forum introduction in the bluecreeper board.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/board,61.0.html
TRI-FLOW is another excellant product! Its made by Krylon!I use it on tugboats and barges in a salt water enviroment! Works real well on the Ranch and on the Mizer! ;D ;D
Quote from: beenthere on May 14, 2013, 09:36:00 AM
Quote from: dgdrls on May 14, 2013, 06:43:35 AM
Kroil, to start loosening the rust on those bolts,
DGD
Blue Creeper from LogRite leaves Kroil in its dust, and have used a lot of Kroil over some years. ;)
But when Blue Creeper's predecessor (formerly Rust Reeper) came to light, there were too many successes that Kroil wouldn't touch. Just sayin.... :)
As amazing as Kroil is, Blue Creeper must be out of this world.
It is.... as several many have discovered. 8)
Notwithstanding, is the more favorable smell the Bluecreeper has over the odor of the Kroil.
quite often you can use oxy-acetylene flame, from brazing or cutting tip, just heat the nut cherry red, let cool for a minute, end of problem. heat expansion will break rust bond. if the nut has a long way to go to get off bolt threads you can heat them too then quick scrub with wire brush or wheel :)
Woodmizer makes just about every part of their mills adjustable. On the older ones like my 1990 LT40HD, I have a hard time adjusting the vertical side supports. We've tried a lot of things and made some improvement. The old ones can be a bear, though. The manual give you the procedure for the adjustment, but it can take a lot of biceps and blue creeper.
The older style mills use a diagonal slot for adjustment. I had trouble with these staying in adjustment on an older mill. I ended up retrofitting the newer style parts which use a cam shaped slot. The newer style stays in adjustment much better. Hope this helps, Jim
Pineywoods told me soemthing else today, too. He said if you don't have any more adjustment left on your side supports, you can weld another piece of steel on to make it straight. You will have to make sure you get your angle right.
Sitting here thinking about it (I do my best thinking from 10PM to 2AM), I just realized instead of welding it on, you could make it adjustable with bolts and slots.
8)
I can never get my front one adjusted 100% because its just worn away from lots of wear with logs turning on it i guess.
I do seem too give them a good bang with big logs and such tho so i do check them myself every now and then, im portable so i always like to check these things every now and then after dragging the mill around anyway.
I recently pulled all the backstops off the mill and repainted them and put all new fastners on them so tweaking then isnt a mission.
Cheers
Justin
I have an older lt30 and the uprights are not adjustable. I'm thinking about changing to the new style I was wondering if Woodmizer sells the uprights or if I have to make them
What year is it? I've never seen a WM that wasn't adjustable. Not saying it ain't so. Maybe in the early years they hadn't invented adjustability yet.
The problem I have with my lt40 super is the stainless covers on the backstops and bed rails... they hump up in the middle so when you go to square things you are referencing from a bowed surface.
Hmm. My 1990 LT40 has the SS bed rails, but not SS backstops. So far I haven't had any real trouble with the bed rail covers bowing. They've behaved pretty well.
The stainless covers wouldn't cost that much would they?
Mine are a bit worse for wear, and I wouldn't mind some on the backstops to square them up :D
Cheers
Justin
When you run out of adjustment on your side supports the best way to fix them is with a big hammer. ;D
Quote from: JustinW_NZ on June 10, 2013, 07:15:32 PM
The stainless covers wouldn't cost that much would they?
Cheers
Justin
$57.00 :) I put them on mine 2 months ago.