I guess it's about time I learned how to sharpen chains. I've got about 4 safety chains with 91 stamped on them and just got what I'm told is a square cut chain with a 50R stamped on it. I was told the 50R is recommended for clearing and it cuts much better. I'm sure I'll stick with chains like the 50R but would also like to sharpen the safety chains since I've got them. Any suggestions? I've got the Bailey's, Forestry Supplier's, Husqvarna, and Stihl catalogs.
Can you tell me what saws you have and what manufacture the chains are?
http://www.cdcstihl.net/stihlpost/spring2001/chain.html
Right now I have a 18" Craftsman (Poulan?) at least 12 years old. I think the drive teeth are spaced a little differant than usual. The local Husq. dealer made them from bulk and put it in a Windsor box. That's all I know.
P.S. Thanks for the link, very helpful. :)
O.K. I read the box and the 50R is a Windsor. Is that a square tooth that's not talked about in the link? :-[ ::)
Ok, that's Windsor 50R.
http://www.windsorforestry.com/products/saw_chain/chain_lowpro.shtm
The 91 could be Oregon 91VG, did that saw have an automatic chain sharpener built into it?
It might be 91LX.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.oregonchain.com%2Fimages%2FProduct%2FChain%2Fdetail%2Flowkick_91vg_thmb.jpg&hash=c71519cdb7acd5d2f5c4604451de9906b54977b1)
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.oregonchain.com%2Fimages%2FProduct%2FChain%2Fdetail%2Fspecialty_91lx_thmb.jpg&hash=5c3df7d98f5f97c8f31e8a84b149df75a73b0c8a)
The 91 looks like the top picture.
If you go down this list to 91 series chain you will see the angles, file and depth gauge for that chain.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kvn.rob/Chainsaw2.jpg
Buy a roller guide for that 91 chain, it will make filing much easier and more exact.
Thanks again Kevin. But what's a roller guide? Will that also work on the other chain? I was looking at the Bailey's cat. and thought I might get a Stump Vise and a Granberg Filing Guide but it does't say it's a roller guide and it works with round files only. I guess my current chains are for round files anyway. I may use something like WoodsmanPRO 33QCS on my next saw. What do you think about square corners?
Here's the roller guides and the Pferd bar dressing tool.
You match the guide to the chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/tools.JPG)
I bought the Stihl stump vise, very heavy duty.
The chain I prefer for my needs is round ground chisel chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.oregonchain.com%2Fimages%2FProduct%2FChain%2Fdetail%2F38_72lg_thmb.jpg&hash=c5437e9dd1d99dfb4ed607a6160be09f4a741c3d)
http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/chain/72LG_FB_0403.pdf
Square ground, square corner chains are an art to sharpen and too much effort for what I do.
That Stihl vise does look better. I didn't see the roller guide on the Pferd site. Maybe that's what Husq. was selling in their catalog last year but not this year?
The roller guides are EM Sweden which I believe are distributed by Husqvarna.
I get mine at the local saw shop and I have seen them at Sherrills.
Those roller guides are nice, and when properly modified, will work well on Stihl chain. They're designed for Oregon chain and, naturally, the two companies use different cutter profiles. The "Husky" depth gauge filing guides work well out of the box on Stihl chain, where they provide slightly less aggressive results.
Of course, neither tool works on chain with drive-link or side-plate bumpers.
The roller guide works on the 91VG.
I stand corrected. I see in the catalog that they do indeed market a roller guide specifically for that chain, as well one for the .325 version with the bumper sideplates. I've never noted them on the shelf anywhere.
I'm not sure if that was an after thought or not.
They may have been manufactured that way when they first came out and then the slot for the bumper link was added later in production.
Roller guides are a great learning aid for somebody that wants to file. After using one for a while how to hold the file becomes second nature and the roller guide stays in the toolbox.
The one on the left is for .325 chain and came from the Husky dealer. I don't like the attached plate as it is a little awkward to use. Somebody gave me the center one and it is for 3/8" chain. The right is a File-O-Plate for the raker's. I really like the File-O-Plates.
Sure would like to see somebody come out with a good guide to help on square chain as I struggle there.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/roller.jpg)
i would second what larry said.. the roller guide helped me a great deal ,,as i have n stigmatism.. which distorts the angles as i see them..if it was me ,,id advise just get rid of the safty chain and use the standard roller guide.. it ll get u started to being a master sharpner ,,like me :D.. good luck.. i mite add afterv much study and help from others.. i can actually beat the local shops for putting out an round filed chain that cuts rite..its been a long time coming tho..im using squarefiled chain now,,done by a friend..
eric ecopsey..also tried one from john lambert that was good ..
but shipping cost a bit too high..
in any case u get round filing dn rite and u come pretty close to matching the square filed for speed..
kevin, automatic sharpener?
please elaborate :)
thanks
The saws had a built in chain sharpener called auto sharp.
The auto sharp had a grinding wheel that automatically sharpened the chain but I don't think it worked too well.
I was actually unfortunate enough to run one of those saws once. The 'sharpening' feature was equivalent to running the chainsaws into concrete, sparks flying and all. The end result was comperable as well. It was an idea developed and implemented by people who did not have any practical chainsaw experience, marketed at homeowners and others with no practical chainsaw experience. It never worked but the marketeers continued to sell them for several years.
Trys to imagine how you could rig up an automatic sharpener... (that would actually work)
Cos when you sharpen you work on the Inside of the tooth ???
Just sounds like one of those ideas that are doomed to fail ::)
The chain used with the auto sharpeners was a special chain. The tooth stood up at an angle and the stone just clipped the end of the tooth. They didn't work too good. I had one in the 1960's, a Poulan made Sears pancake saw, and replaced the stone one time. Figured it wasn't worth the effort.
my corn chopper has an automatic sharpener that works like a champ ;D
what kind of saw was that again? id like to see a pic of how bulky it was and its mechanics.
thanks