Good morning fellows. We milled some logs this past weekend and had a few problems with our mill. A Woodland 126. After my first cut on a log, I was not looking at the saw band when I started pulling the mill back over the freshly cut log. It caught on the log and I pulled the band enough to pull it out of the left side guide. when I realized this I opened the doors and loosened up the band and replaced it in the guide, raised the saw head and returned to the start of the track. after taking time to re-align the band, I started back up and tried to resume cutting. I could only cut a few feet or so of the next board before the band would come off the rubber belt on the right wheel. It kept doing this . I finally changed band blades and I didn't have any problems. My question is this. Could I have bent this original band when I caught it on the log? I could not see any damage to teeth or anything. It had only cut one log before this happened. Also is the belt on this right side wheel supposed to be loose on the inner side when the wheel is tightened up before sawing. It looks weird to me.
I know nothing about your sawmill brand, but it surely sounds like you kinked that band. Loose bandwheel belts is very common with some sawmill manufacturers, Wood-Mizer being one.
Agreed, you most likely did kink the band when it came off!
Not sure about Woodland Mills, but Wood-Mizer recommends disengaging the blade when you get to the end of your cut and reengage when you are ready to start your next cut!
Chuck when you say dis-engage the band, are you talking about turning the mill motor off, or raising the cutting head or ?
Seem like someone just had a thread on this and laid the blade on the floor,flat side down,of thier garage and noticed the blade was bent. I suppose no garage,talk the wife into letting you bring it in to the house. ;D
On my Thomas I just crank up the head after EVERY time I get done sawing. Than I pull the lumber off.You should be able to back up the head without cranking the head up.But things do happen once in a while and it's not worth the "once in a while" problem.It just becomes second nature to do it after a while. Good luck.
Thecfarm, I guess I need to start the habit of giving the crank handle a turn or two up after each cut before bringing the mill back over the log. I noticed that some logs 'bow' up slightly sometimes after a given cut. Thanks
Quote from: Rod Yowell on September 16, 2013, 09:16:18 AMI noticed that some logs 'bow' up slightly sometimes after a given cut.
Stress is being relieved within the cant as boards are removed. Flipping the cant 180° and re-clamping is a common practice.
Thanks Majicman. I am learning a lot from all you pros and I am having a great time sawing my logs. The oak timber is giving me unbelievably beautiful wood lumber.
The guys that really saw can tell you better. But when you get done the cut the blade "should" not drop any. You should be able to back the saw up and it should scrap the sawdust off the cant. Lots of shoulds. :D But as I said,it's easier to just raise the head each and every time.
Rod I believe what Chuck is referring to, at least on a WM disengaging the blade is stopping the blade. The pulley/clutch disengages and a brake engages stopping your blade. You leave the motor on. I hope this helps.
Matt
When sawing I make it a habit of not going out of the log when I get to the end, only a 1/2 inch or so of the blade sticks out. Then again I have a blade brake that stops the blade from turnming as I go back. If your mill has no band brake to stop the blade, I would sugest that you go out of the log, lift the blade to clear the cant and then bring it back, as your helper takes the board off, if you are your helper, ;D Lift it some anyways, only enough to clear the can't, this way you will not catch it on any part of the log.
You more then likely have a kink in the band as said. It happens :-\
If the blade is turning, either under power or coasting to a stop, bumping the end of the log will throw it off a bandwheel. It can also happen in the middle, if the blade rose in the cut. Just lifting the blade 1/2" is all it takes. In theory, it should work as thecfarm describes. The only reason that it would bump the end is if the blade rose in the cut or the log moved. Those are just things you'll learn to watch for with experience. Sometimes you can straighten out a kink if it isn't too severe. I believe your mill uses metal blade shields, so the teeth may have been damaged, as well.
Thanks guys for all the replies. Here are a few pictures of my 'Big' operation! :D
I am having a great time. 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33349/IMG_20130915_140315_031.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33349/IMG_20130915_140336_965.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33349/IMG_20130915_134721_395.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33349/IMG_20130915_134711_764%7E0.jpg)
That looks good. I put my small logs onto a log deck than roll them onto the mill. I'm not the careful type with anything I have. I try,but I'm the type that can break an anvil with a feather. ::) Sawing is fun.
Quote from: Magicman on September 16, 2013, 09:22:42 AM
Quote from: Rod Yowell on September 16, 2013, 09:16:18 AMI noticed that some logs 'bow' up slightly sometimes after a given cut.
Stress is being relieved within the cant as boards are removed. Flipping the cant 180° and re-clamping is a common practice.
Is this what you mean? If so, I had this happen a LOT over this weekend.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/Stress_in_Pine.JPG)
Yep that's what I mean. I also have noticed the remaining part of the log bowing up slightly that can catch the saw band when backing it up over the last cut.
Rod
Thecfarm has a very good suggestion, to make a log deck and save yourself a lot of frustration pushing your mill frame out of whack.
Is that a WD model Allis-Chalmers?
Quote from: Magicman on September 16, 2013, 12:26:05 PM
Is that a WD model Allis-Chalmers?
Majicman yes it is. I got it about a year or so from an old friend that broke the intermediate gear and the torque tube housing.
I had to take it apart in 2 halves and fix it. I am not a mechanic so it was a real challenge. I joined the Allis Chalmers site and the great guys that love these old tractors helped talk me thru the repairs. They are a great bunch of Americans that are eager to help a novice like me out. Just like you and the fellows on this forum. I thank you guys for all your great advice and help.
I always disengage the clutch, remove the slab,board and then bring the head back. The band moving back along the cant shows me if it is cutting correctly and if there is tension i the cant, etc. So far, it is working for me. Of course, I'm not pushing for production!
I also like to drag my blade back over log to see if my cut was. straight or wavy. I have a woodland mill also and never raise up after a cut the picture of the can't looks like your saw was not cutting straight.welcome to the forum...
picture shows a log with tention being cut close to the heart on one side. Creating a bow in the cant. :P
I always raise the head at the end of the cut,its tempting if you have a simple scale and pointer to leave it set but it will get you sooner or later.At the end of the cut I make a mental note where the pointer is for resetting to the next cut.A soft material glued to the inside of the bandwheel covers will save teeth when a band does come off. Frank C.