A few months ago, I asked about Norwood mills on this forum. Thanks again for all of the good information. I chose to get the Norwood, and would like to share some thoughts and pictures with you.
I chose to get the 23 HP B&S motor, with an extra bed section (for a total capacity of 17"), the log deck package, log loading system, trailer package, and trailer leg package. This arrangement comes with two log posts and two log dogs. I also bought the log wizard, which I find to be mostly useless.
The mill arrived in 52 cartons. I had it delivered to the dock at my company's warehouse. The only conditions that I placed on the delivery was to not deliver on Wednesdays, since the warehouse guy that is a buddy of mine worked off-site on Wednesdays. Of course, they delivered on Wednesday. @#$%$&!!
So, the guy who was there at the warehouse signs for the order, without even counting the cartons. @#$^$#@!!! I could have strangled him. He called my buddy (actually named "Bud"), who called me.
After a confused scramble, I got to the warehouse and counted cartons. Whew! Looked like it was all there. I loaded my truck up with 1948 pounds of cartons. I managed to get everything in one load, and my poor truck held up nicely. Once I got it home, I unloaded everything, and immediately took inventory. Again, it looked like all parts were there.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill1.jpg)
So, I began the task of assembly. I spent that first evening reading and re-reading the manual. I found the manual to be OK, but sometimes a bit vague. I expect that it is quite good for assembling the base model, but it does not do a very good job of addressing accessories. The accessories come with additional instructions, but there were still holes. I found myself making some of it up as I went. Things like placement of the log posts and dogs, as well as the log rollers and toe boards were vague at best.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill2.jpg)
Of course, no project is complete without some canine supervision.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill3.jpg)
Unfortunately, I do not have a garage. So, I was forced to build the mill in my gravel driveway in the backyard. I will say this - if I can build one under these conditions, anyone can. I also would like to reiterate the need for air tools. It can be done with only elbow grease, but I don't recommend it.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill4.jpg)
With my options, six joints on the rails was straddled by a leg bracket. If nothing else, these add rigidity to the rails - my biggest concern about this design.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill5.jpg)
Alignment of the track is critical, and I took my time getting it just right. This is a bit tricky, particularly when you are not working on a flat surface. I ended up having to shim and re-shim each joint, and make several passes, tightening up just a bit as I went, while re-adjusting the shims at the same time. It was a tedious process, but I think it was important.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill6.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill7.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill8.jpg)
At some point, I got a lot more into building the mill than taking pictures, so, I now jump to the completed mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill9.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill10.jpg)
So, it was time to give it a try. I loaded it up, and trailered it out to my property out in the country. It trailered nicely. The light kit worked fine, but the ground clip can only reach to the trailer tongue, which does not always make good electrical contact with the rest of the trailer. I ended up adding a length of wire to the clip so it could reach back to the mill rail.
The mill carriage clamps securely to the rails for trailering. I had to guess at the location of the clamps a bit because of my accessories, but once I found the correct place, the trailer was well balanced, with no more than 100 pounds or so of tongue weight.
Once I got to my location, it was time to set up for milling.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill11.jpg)
I found the trailer legs to be all but useless by themselves. There is no way to easily jack up the mill to get it level. I anticipated this, and bought a small trailer jack to help level the bed. This is a critical step, sicne the bed itself is not terribly rigid, and will flex and rack fairly easily under load. It truly must be well supported to work well.
After some wrangling, I finally got it level and stable, and I loaded a small, somewhat punky log (still don't know exactly what species it is) on the deck and began sawing.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill12.jpg)
FIRST SAWDUST!
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill13.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill14.jpg)
That was all that I sawed that day. I needed a tractor to move any logs to the mill, and I needed my friend (who had a tractor) to help. So, the next expedition was a few days later on some bigger logs consisting of some red oak that had been on the ground for about a year, and some freshly cut white pine. For this trip, I chose to take the wheels off and drop the deck, rather than try to saw on the trailer. I will probably do it this way from now on. Here is a 16ft white pine log.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill15.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill16.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill17.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill18.jpg)
As I said above, I needed a tractor, so I picked up this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill19.jpg)
It's a 30 HP 4wd Mitsubishi with a good strong loader. It works nicely, and I have recently skidded some pretty big logs out of the woods with it.
Of course, I will need to dry all of that wood, so I am building this kiln.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/mill20.jpg)
It is complete now (I'll post another pic later) except for the power. I am currently clearling the right-of-way for the poles. When all is said and done, that clearing project will provide me with about 150 nice logs of yellow pine, white pine, red oak, white oak, maple, walnut and sycamore. That ought to keep the mill busy for a while.
Overall, my impressions of the Norwood are very good. It went together very well, with no big surprises, and no poorly fitting parts. It cuts quite well. At first, I was a bit concerned that I would have to push the carriage for every cut, but it is quite effortless. The saw does all of the work. If I had it to do over again, I would not have gotten the trailer leg kit. I won't use them again. The mill works best when it sits on the ground. Also, if the deck is not set up high enough, the carriage runs into the legs. I will be using the mill in the same place pretty much every time, so I am going to pour a slab that will make it easy to drop the mill on to. Eventually, I will move out to the property in the country (I will build a house with milled lumber) and I can make a permanent saw shed, but for now, I will trailer it out there when I need it, and drop it on the slab.
As all other Norwood owners have found out, the grate at the sawdust discharge had to go early in the game. It became clogged about every other pass.
Also, as expected, the blade lube system sucks. I have seen the throttle activated valve system that others have built, and I decided to do something similar. Rather than add a throttle activated valve, I added a throttle activated pump, so I could spray both the top and bottom of the blade at the same time. It consists of simply a universal windshield washer pump, and a check valve. I also added a compression tee to the drip tube and ran a piece of copper tube under the blade to spray on the bottom. I crimped the two tubes to produce a fan-shaped spray. This seems to work very well for the white pine that I have been sawing. I'll try to remember to take some pics of the system.
I also bought the log wizard for debarking. I must admit that I find it pretty much useless. It is awkward, and does not work well. I put it on a 14" bar, but it still was too tip-heavy to use comfortably. It would not remove bark easily, and was just too cumbersome to use for me. I now use a root-cutting tool as a spud, and it works fine.
If I knew then, what I know now, I would still have purchased the mill, but I would have gotten one more deck section ( to cut logs 21" long), another set of log posts, and I would not have gotten the trailer leg package or the log wizard. Everything else works fine.
I will give a follow-up when I have had a chance to mill that big pile of logs from clearing the right-of-way.
Tim
Nice write-up. You did a good job. Congratulations. ;)
Nice photos of you Mill, I cut a osage log on a Norwood
and i can see where the trailer package is not that good.
I am going to help JR lower his mill down as he has it to
high. I think it is a bet unstable at that higth. Good luck
and happy cutting.
Sawwood
spokeshave; i just got a norwood mark 4 with 86 hrs on it ,sawed my first log yesterday. i am interested in the blade lube modifications you did. please post pics.
thanks greg 8) ???
Super nice writeup, Spokeshave. I look forward to more pictures of the progress.
Captain
Spokeshave,
I put my new Norwood togather 4 weeks ago and am having a great time making sawdust.
I recognized some your problems right off. Another problem I had was a BAD vibration in the saw head at sawing speed, it was worse just before the blade entered the wood. I fixed it by balancing the blade wheels with some stick on wheel waights.
One problem I still have not figured out is my log stops do not swing in a true arc. Swung twards the blade I have a 1/4" gap between the stop and a square cant, swing it the other way and it has pushes the log away from the permanent stops on the bed. At 90 deg to the bed it is perfect. How are yours? Any thoughts?
moosehunter:
How did you go about balancing the wheels? I have the same problem. I was intending to balance them the same way that I do my woodworking bandsaw - by drilling out some metal, but I like the wheel weights idea better.
As for the log stops, about the only thing I can think of is that the rods are bent. That would explain them being out of square on either side of center. Hmmm - another possibility is that the rod is installed crooked. Check to be sure that the hole that the rod passes through is the same on each end. It is fairly easy to get one end of the rod in the wrong hole. I made that exact mistake myself.
Greg_B:
I will post pics as soon as I can. My daughter has my camera to use on her vacation, so it might be a few days.
Tim
Tim,
Congrats on the new mill. Your write up was excellent and of great value.
Keep on Cuttin,
Pete
Spokeshave,
I balanced the wheels by removing the band and belts. spin the wheels by hand and check to see where they stop. If the stop in the same place every time, the balance is off. The heavy spot will always stop at the bottom, 6 o'clock position.
Clean the wheel at the 12 o'clock postion and add waights on the inside of wheel (so that centrifigul force keeps the on) 1/4 once at a time. I own a auto repair shop so I had the waights, you should be able to buy small quantitys at a tire store. The sticky stuff on the waights is very sticky.
Keep adding 1/4 once at a time till the wheel stops at random lacations when you spin it. I was going to put the wheels on my tire balancing macine, but was not sure how to do it without damage to the bearings.
If you do this, let me know how your first spins go, both of my factory balanced wheels ( I know they were balanced becouse the people at norwood said so ;D) always stopped with the NORWOOD stamped spoke at 11 o'clock.
Spokeshave,
With only one "B" size Vee belt to drive the bandwheel, was wondering if it will handle the 23 HP from your B & S engine without slipping?
D_Frederick
I was wondering the same thing myself. I like the design, though, and I don't think it will slip. The belt contacts the blade over a length of about 40 or more inches, since the blade rides on top of the belt from about midway through the throat over half of the drive wheel. I have not experienced any slipping that I can tell. I think it helps to keep the blade clean and wet, and properly tensioned, of course.
I have not yet tried to cut with the full throat (24"), but I have cut about 20" through white pine and had no trouble.
Tim
Hi guy's; i have a lumbermate 2000, and had the same problem with the upright's not being true. Found that the mill frame was not lined up straight from corner too corner . The only big problem that i have with the mill is with the 20hp honda, and it's idleing or lack of it. JAMES ;D
Sawed my first log with my new Norwood today,did have some trouble with the belt slipping,but it cleared up. Now sometimes it doesn't stop when idling. Saws good though.
Spokeshave or any onr with a Norwood mill. What type
of winch system do you use to lod the logs on. Would
like to see a close up of the one you have spokeshave.
JR is trying to make one for his Norwood and i will be
helping him out.
Sawwood
Sawwood:
I use the winch and winch post that came with the log loading package. The winch is a simple hand-crank trailer winch, but it works fine. Eventually, I will add a cheap electric winch since it is a bit difficult to load a log by myself when I have to hand crank the winch. I find that I have to manipulate the log a bit with a cant hook to get it to load properly. This would be much easier if I had a remote control for the winch, rather than having to keep moving from one side of the mill to the other.
Once I get the slab poured, I will probably rig a different log loading system. The way it works now, I have to insert the winch post into its receiver whenever I need to load a log, and remove it when I am done. It's not that big a deal, but the post plus winch is heavy - maybe 50 pounds - and it gets a bit old having to move it anound all of the time.
Tim
spokeshave;
Looks very nice! :) So that mill you get in parts and you have to get them parts together?
The frame.....is it in steel sheet or solid aluminium? There is a lot of holes for hydraulic log loaders and other useful stuff. ;)
Swede.
Swede:
The mill comes completely unassembled. I think I ended up tightening over 500 fasteners. The rails are made of stamped, or "debossed" steel sections. Each section is 4 feet long, and they are joined with tie plates that overlap the joint. The holes are definitely handy. The accessories, like the deck package (log roller and toe boards) use the holes for attachment points, making the placement very versatile. I can imagine using the holes for many other accessories.
I was very concerned that these rail sections would not be very sturdy. I have to admit, however, that they are quite rigid once assembled. I have no doubt that they will easily handle the weight of a long, heavy 32" log.
You can find more about the Norwood Lumbermate 2000 here: http://www.norwoodindustries.com
I bought a new Lumbermate about 8 years ago, and used it part time for about 7 of those 8 years. Several months ago, i sold it and bought a NEW LM2000 with 8' of extra track, 23hp Vanguard motor, stainless bunk caps., and log roller package...
They are "great" lower cost sawmills that hold up well and saw very good. I was very happy with the service i got out of my old LM, and the new LM is stronger and has had many upgrades, so i know it will be a good mill too.
I've added a lube pump, and hour meter to mine and i also purchased the optional log post that are intended to be used for small logs ect.. They work much better for small logs than the std. log post....
Soon i'll get started sawing out all the lumber i need to put up a mill shed, and i'm looking foreward to that... It will be really nice to have a dedicated saw shed to put everything in!!! All the years i had my old LM it sat outside, and i'm looking foreward to fixing that!!
Robert
Looks good. I have the old Mark 3 and have good luck with it. I did not like the water lube system amd replaced it and after much reading about other mill owners using diesel/bar mix, I tried it. I wouldn't even think about going back to water. Try a very slow drip and you will be amazed. Much quieter. My guides were screaming because the water/detergent had washed the oil out of the bearings. I also went with the urethane tire and much smoother.
Don't worry about the diesel/bar lube being environmentally unfriendly. Check out the previous posts here about lube.
Ocasionally I have to do straighten my stops since I saw large logs and am not gentle when turning. Overall for the money-very good! Also I Sharpen my own blades on a 100 dollar sharpener. I use 10 degrees on everything and no problems. Real easy to sharpen. No need for a expensive sharpener.
Very much enjoyed your write up and pics,,,thanks
Interested in your kiln design. Would you share where you got them.
Thanks
Rick
Tim,
Great pictures. I have a new LM. It's excellent. The only thing it doesn't do well is cut through the log posts!
Otto
:D :D :D Actually it saws um pretty good, it's just real hard on da band. ;D
Quote from: music_boy on February 26, 2005, 07:56:59 PM
Very much enjoyed your write up and pics,,,thanks
Interested in your kiln design. Would you share where you got them.
Thanks
Rick
The design is of my own making, though I took clues from the many resources on the web. If you google "solar kiln" you will see what I mean.
My design consists of two primary elements - the solar collector and the wood chamber. The solar collector basically is an air space between the clear PVC panels and some galvanized metal roofing panels painted black. At the base of these panes are two fans that will circulate the air by pulling the air through the wood stack, forcing it up through the collector air space and back down the back of the kiln and back through the pile. This air flow takes advantage of the natural convection tendency. The fans operate on a thermostat set at about 90 degrees so that the kiln is circulating during daytime sun, and does not circulate at night. This helps avoid degrade due to drying too fast.
There is another fan at the back of the kiln that is on a humidistat. It exhausts the kiln air volume when a certain humidity level is reached. There are two louvered vents at the bottom of the back of the kiln that allow for make-up air.
I will take some more pictures of the finished kiln this weekend if anyone is interested.
Tim
We're interested!!!!!!
Very Cool. I tip my hat to you. You must have alot of patients. That whole project would have been a wrench throwing vocabulary enhancing affair for me. Many complements
Could someone tell me what are the differences between the Lumbermate Mark IV, and the Lumbermate 2000.
Thanks
Just to make all Norwood owners aware they (Norwood) have a forum for users on the Norwood web site. Check it out!
Sorry Gabby, but I was bored to death at that forum and I own a Norwood. ::)
Best place for answers of ANY type is right here!
Furby you could not have said it any better. I think the FF probably has more Norwood folks than Norwood. No one is selling a brand here!
Not at all PawNature.
I am not a Norwood mill owner but if I recall correctly the Mark 3 and Mark 4 are early versions of what is now called the Lumbermate 2000.
I know they reference some options that fit all three series mills. I am not sure of the SPECIFIC differences other than they are just older versions of todays Norwood mill.
The reason I ask is I found a used Mark IV that still has the orignal band on it. (So the owner says) and has always been stored inside for $3000. I am buying it regardless but was just curious if anyone could tell me the difference betwee the Mark IV and the 2000
Thanks Kirk
I say: good buy! smiley_thumbsup
My Mark 3 is a 1995 I belive and was made just before Norwood bought the company. I belive the Mark 4 was made just after they bought the company and then the Lumbermate 2000 was the more streamlined edition.
They now have a power feed advailable as an upgrade, but it is $$$.
My mill is beat up, but cuts real good lumber.
Quote from: bberry on February 26, 2005, 07:42:44 PM
Also I Sharpen my own blades on a 100 dollar sharpener. I use 10 degrees on everything and no problems. Real easy to sharpen. No need for a expensive sharpener.
bberry, Please tell me more about your sharpener. I will need one soon. Also your reason for going to diesel drip makes lots of sense....thanks.
Excellent pics Spokeshave!
Very nice pictures, good post/// I have had my LM2000 for about 1.5yrs and have had a good time with it/// anyone thinks it cant take a beating is wrong as i have droped a 12' x 24 " Hemlock log on it and skidded it back about 4" w/o any damage-I to would like to see the plans for the Kiln// JP pics of my mill etc. at:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4231442&a=31390449&f=
GregS,
Just got back from upstate NY and looked at a new Norwood in Johnstown. Nice setup and a lot of new updates from my old Norwood. The sharpener is simply an 8 inch grinder that allows the band to sit flat on the tool rest and the angle is scribed on the steel tool rest and the blade is held at that angle and very lightly pushed into the stone which is shaped to match the gullet. I bought it from a west coast outfit. I think it may have been Linn Lumber. Works excellent and takes about twenty minutes to do a blade. Slow but gets the job done and cuts better than new. Twenty below mornings are better spent in the basement sharpening and listening to music anyway. Glad you are doing the oil drip. You can run it in front of the infeed guide so it spreads out over the blade. I run it to both sides and that is an advantage. There are many advantages to the oil drip and don't let the environmentalists bother you. They are uninformed as to the source of windshield washer fluid used by all water lubers in cold weather. The use of oil to manufacture methanol for use in windshield washer fluid takes the sting out of their words. Not to mention what is used to manufacture dish washing soap. I probably use less oil in my system than the enviros do in their chain saws. Why would we use tons of the stuff. It's too precious. A little common sense goes a long ways up here in Maine.
bberry, Thank you very much for the sharpener info! I will investigate. I agree with your sense of reality...and many people never even consider product processing when they by something.
Sorry, I didn't mean to side-track this tread from Norwood mills.
Greg S
Well I picked up my Mark IV Friday. I got more than I thought I was getting, for a change. :)
It came with the 4 ft extension for cutting 16 footers, also has the log rolling toe board attachments 5 new blades a cant hook and numerous other items. I am well satisifed. Got it set up Saturday and cut a small popular just to check it out. Love it. The only difference I can find is that the 2000 will cut a 31 inch log and the Mark IV is limited to 27-28 inches.
I have had the LM2000 for about 2 years --has worked very well for me//
Here are some addons and things to make working with the LM 2000 easier/
The first is a small valve to control the water lube –easy to adjust with one finger
It can be purchased at: http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/20-868.html?id=cqQ3txzY
The second is a large log turner which can be used as a log loader when mounted from the other side (in the trailer mount). This is with hand winch but could have a 2000 # 12 volt winch.
The third is a laser to see where the slab cuts are going to be//
The fourth is a carrage stop so you can shove the carrage back and not have it slam into the end of the mill/
See pictures at: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4231442&a=31929447