Hey guys I came here looking for some advice and professional help. I would consider my self an "Adept Arborist", and realize I have a lot to learn. Any way a few months ago I bought this particular saw and have had nothing but trouble with it since the day I have bought it.
When I first bought the saw it started just fine but now I would say I have put around 5-10 hours on it max and having a lot of trouble with it. I took it to my local Stihl dealer where he poured my fuel out and put that MotoMix stuff in it and eventually got it started and assured me nothing was wrong with my saw. He instructed me not to worry about putting non-ethanol fuel in the saw and just buy Premium 93 fuel for my mix.
The thing is I can not get this saw to run off gas anymore at all. Even if the fuel mix is freshly made it makes really no difference. Right now it has fuel mix in it that is no older than three weeks and it will not even try to start. I have heard several times that some of the new saws will only run off of the MotoMix. Problem with it is that it is way to expensive for me.
I do not know if it is the saw is faulty or it is just picky and will only run off of that MotoMix stuff. I am really scared to take it back out to my local dealer because I am 90% sure he is just going to dump my fuel out again and put some MotoMix in it and charge me another $40.00 and tell me there is nothing wrong with the saw. This is very very frustrating and I am very unhappy with the saw. All my neighbors have old Stihls and they are monsters compared to this one. I have let several of them look at it and they just tell me Stihl should get involved and take care of me.
I spend the extra couple hundred dollars for the name Stihl because I trusted it and now it is definitely letting me down. Any pointers or advice? I would really appreciate it.
I had a brand new 290 come to me, a stihl dealer couldnt fix it :D. I figured it out in about a hour. Carb kit in it was bad new with slits in check valve flaps.
Your case I am thinking carb tuning, or fuel line or impulse line. Then a again combination off all and stiff carb diaphragms. Cant really tell just guess at this point.
It is one of the worst chainsaw designs ever by a major brand - but I still don't think this is normal.
Take it back to the dealer if it is new!
Quote from: Cut4fun on September 28, 2013, 03:19:02 PM
I had a brand new 290 come to me, a stihl dealer couldnt fix it :D. I figured it out in about a hour. Carb kit in it was bad new with slits in check valve flaps.
Your case I am thinking carb tuning, or fuel line or impulse line. Then a again combination off all and stiff carb diaphragms. Cant really tell just guess at this point.
Before I took the saw to my dealer the first time I was told that my issue sounded like a Fuel Line or Carburetor Issue. I am now convinced that these saws are just made like they were before. Because as soon as my dealer poured the old fuel out, put in the MotoMix, and cleaned it up some he started it up pretty easy then assured me it was fine.
I am very scared that they are just going to do the same exact thing again and assure me again that there is no problem with my saw. This is really going to frustrate me because I can not afford this fuel. What do you guys think? Do you think Stihl should step in and make this right or what? My neighbors tell me that they use fuel and mix that has sat for years and there saw is still a beast. Then mine will not start at all with two week old gas in it?
For my next saw I am looking at either an Echo CS-8000 or Husqvarna 372-XP both with their standard 24" Bars. The Echo's engine is bigger by almost 10CC but not sure if I would trust it. I was looking hard at either Husqvarna or Stihl before and of course because of the experience my neighbors have had with theirs over the years it was an easy decision... One I can say I am very, very sorry that I made right now...
Seems your issue is with your dealer. Not the saw model, and not Stihl.
But is just as I see it, and how your chances are best to get a running saw.
Well all I know is it sounded ridiculous that people have told me that the new Stihl Saws require MotoMix to run properly. Now that I see it with my own two eyes is even more ridiculous. I would almost guarantee that if I went out and bought a can of MotoMix and replaced it with the fuel in there now it would probably start after I played around with it some. I am not certain though, but that is exactly what my Stihl dealer did.
Okay I should have been more clear about what I meant by "Stihl dealer". I did not by the saw off of this particular dealer. I bought it from a local Southern States, which also might have been a mistake. I took it to them because they are a "Authorized Stihl Location" which means they do warranty work. I guess there was no problem with my saw he had to charge me for the work.
Okay so what should my next move be?
Quote from: SawTroll on September 28, 2013, 03:51:38 PM
It is one of the worst chainsaw designs ever by a major brand - but I still don't think this is normal.
Take it back to the dealer if it is new!
By all means take it back to a dealer but a different one, the one you used sounds like a bad one. wsteve
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 28, 2013, 06:18:37 PM
Well all I know is it sounded ridiculous that people have told me that the new Stihl Saws require MotoMix to run properly. Now that I see it with my own two eyes is even more ridiculous. I would almost guarantee that if I went out and bought a can of MotoMix and replaced it with the fuel in there now it would probably start after I played around with it some. I am not certain though, but that is exactly what my Stihl dealer did.
Okay I should have been more clear about what I meant by "Stihl dealer". I did not by the saw off of this particular dealer. I bought it from a local Southern States, which also might have been a mistake. I took it to them because they are a "Authorized Stihl Location" which means they do warranty work. I guess there was no problem with my saw he had to charge me for the work.
Okay so what should my next move be?
The best thing is to take time and learn how to tune and fix a saw yourself, it's not that hard and you'll save lots of $$$$ Steve
Quote from: ladylake on September 28, 2013, 06:23:18 PM
The best thing is to take time and learn how to tune and fix a saw yourself, it's not that hard and you'll save lots of $$$$ Steve
Finally someone that speaks my language. I fix everything I have ever owned with my own very two hands. Our Tractors, Dryers, Washers, Computers, and everything else. I have never really had any experience taking apart a chainsaw but they do not look very complicated compared to some of the stuff I have dealt with.
The only reason I am here instead of trying to figure out what is wrong with my saw for my self is that since it is so new I do not expect to be in the scenario I am in until I am close to my grave. That is why I bought a saw with "Stihl" written across it. So I really think Stihl should take care of me on this. I realize that everything is getting cheaper and cheaper but this is just ridiculous.
Hexa Fox,welcome to the forum. They are out there,bad saws,bad dealers,good saws,good dealers. If it won't run right now what will it be like in a few years? I myself would not work on it. It should be under warrenty and if you did adjust and the "bad" dealer knew about it,would they help you? There is a dealer out there that will help you.
Quote from: thecfarm on September 28, 2013, 07:34:05 PM
Hexa Fox,welcome to the forum. They are out there,bad saws,bad dealers,good saws,good dealers. If it won't run right now what will it be like in a few years? I myself would not work on it. It should be under warrenty and if you did adjust and the "bad" dealer knew about it,would they help you? There is a dealer out there that will help you.
My father is 53 years old and he said the same thing. Respectfully I take the mindset that a good majority of people (except ones I know personally) are out to screw me over... That has served me pretty well in life and saved me a lot of time and money so far. My father on the other hand is the complete opposite, in that he will take the mindset that everyone is out to do well. With the way things are I just can't see things that way anymore...
I have been screwed over by many different businesses. Therefore I have learned to try and absorb as much knowledge as I can and do things for my self. So it definitely pays off.
So I will probably end up taking it back to the same dealer and giving him another chance. He is very friendly and took the time to teach me some tips and tricks. So should I assume that there is definitely a problem with my saw at this point? Should I take the mindset that my saw is faulty and it is not just Stihl making cheaper saws? Because I have heard more than once that this was the model to buy. Then I turn around and hear it was a mass produced garbage saw...
QuoteOkay I should have been more clear about what I meant by "Stihl dealer". I did not by the saw off of this particular dealer. I bought it from a local Southern States, which also might have been a mistake.
Everyone here wants to help get you through this.
What you just made more clear, leads me to wonder who did buy the Stihl saw from a dealer.
And did someone else run the saw before you got it, or was it new out of the box so to speak?
A lot can happen to a saw and it sounds like you may not know just "who did what" in this saws' early days.
Can you fill in any of that info for us.
I'd find it a bit difficult to believe that Moto-mix would be a cure for what ails the saw, but we learn new things every day. One has to wonder what it cures. ;)
Quote from: beenthere on September 28, 2013, 08:11:43 PM
Everyone here wants to help get you through this.
What you just made more clear, leads me to wonder who did buy the Stihl saw from a dealer.
And did someone else run the saw before you got it, or was it new out of the box so to speak?
A lot can happen to a saw and it sounds like you may not know just "who did what" in this saws' early days.
Can you fill in any of that info for us.
I'd find it a bit difficult to believe that Moto-mix would be a cure for what ails the saw, but we learn new things every day. One has to wonder what it cures. ;)
I really appreciate the help offered by each of you so far. It might help me sleep better tonight until I do something with it on Monday.
Okay I realize that I made a mistake by buying it from Southern States. I do not know if you have them over there but they are like Home Depot just a lot smaller and sometimes referred to as "really crappy". So I went there and bought the MS290 right off the shelf, no box or anything. I forgot to open and smell the gas tank. The kid (younger than me) said he had to take it in the back and start it to make sure that fired and everything. He forgot to give me all the tools and stuff that came with the saw so I had to go back. I never got a box or anything like that. I did get the manuals for it though.
So it is definitely a lesson learned. I was in a rush to get a Saw and the next nearest place I knew about was about an hour away. So it was probably a rushed poor decision and you can be assured I will not make it again.
The real question is what do I do now that it is done? Should I contact Stihl directly or something? I use this saw to make money but like I said I have less than ten hours on it.
Plus I thought the MotoMix things was laughable when I first heard it from my next door neighbor. I guess the only way to find out for sure is to buy another can of it and switch it up and try. Either way as soon as I ran out of the can of MotoMix I bought and what was put there by my dealer (about four fill ups all together) and put regular gas in and let is sit for less than a week it will not even try to start.
Also to make it clear I know how to start the saw. I have it on the choke that does not automatically rev it when it first starts. Then of course when it "burps" or acts like it wants to start you just flip it to On and it starts right up if it has MotoMix. Another thing that bothers me is I have to let the saw sit and idle for about thirty seconds before I can use it. If I try to use it before then it will just die. I was also assured that this was normal. However, my neighbors tell me as soon as theirs fires up they can use it immediately... so yeah.
So this got me thinking... I was told to never use the "Full Choke" which is the thing at the very bottom. I just took it outside at 8:30pm EST and put it all the way down. Instead of starting and revving up it "burped" or acted like it wanted to start after two pulls. I switched it to On and it fired... So maybe I am still an Amateur and not as Adept as I thought I was... Sorry for wasting your time guys. I guess all the problems I had with it when I first got it made me less patient with it now...
Okay so I am using about two-three week old 93 Sunoco Gas in it. Because here where I live on the East Coast the best thing we can get in non Ethanol is 87 and my dealer told me it was really sh!tty and not to use it. So basically how often do you guys change your fuel and basic stuff about your mix? I was told to throw my stuff out after three months max. He told me to throw it in a lawn mower or truck or something. He said the little bit of oil would not hurt it.
I only mix up a gallon of it anyway. By the way I am very anal about the mixture being perfect. I definitely turn it into Rocket Science when I am making it.
Good that you got it figured out. Sometimes simple things elude us all. The motomix is not all that a saw will run on for sure. As for fuel, don't use 87, it will not do you any good and will probably suffer in performance. I use 91 or 93 and mix with Stihl ultra synthetic. If it sits for a couple months you probably want to mix new, the ethanol will soak up moisture and can damage the engine. Throw it in the mower or truck with a full gas tank and it shouldn't hurt anything. Also, Stihl don't come in a box or anything, they always sell ready to go with tools and manual. When you start it up run it full throttle, not idle to warm up. It doesn't take long. As soon as you get good response when revving it up it should be good to go.
I ALWAYS use the highest grade in all my small engines that is at my local station. I go through gas,so it does not sit much more than a month,that is 4-5 gallons at a time.
Quote from: thecfarm on September 28, 2013, 09:45:13 PM
I ALWAYS use the highest grade in all my small engines that is at my local station. I go through gas,so it does not sit much more than a month,that is 4-5 gallons at a time.
Well according to just about anyone that makes small engines you are suppose to avoid "High Test" or "Premium" at all costs. They tell you it will void your warranty if they figure out you are using it. I just bought a Craftsman ZTL 8000 (24HP Kohler Zero Turn) and you are suppose to use non-ethanol. So right now I am using that cheap 87 non-ethanol stuff from the Liberty Station in town. I figure I will be putting cheap stuff in my mowers anyway so why not just make it non-ethanol. From now on though I am going to try to find 93+ for my Stihl Saw and Weed-Wacker.
Okay so lastly and by far the most controversial subject. How do you guys here prefer to sharpen your saws chain? Please keep in mind that I am not just your weekend warrior type kid and will be using my saw often. I have heard many different things but heard that if you learn to use a file it is they way to go for anyone. There are so many other options though. Things from Grinders, Timberline Chainsaw Invention, and even Rigs that can make it easier. People tell me that nothing will get your chain cutting better than learning how to properly use a file.
Stihls little kit looks really simple and if I may "idiot proof" as well. You just take the file and guide then line it up and one direction, equal pressure/strokes, and file down the rakers if needed and be on your way.
I hand file.
Often after each tank of fuel.
If I had to remove the chain to take it to a grinder to sharpen, then I prolly would let it get much duller before sharpening. And I don't think that would be wise.
But we have all the different sharpening variations by members happy with the way they sharpen their chain, and that is what really counts. Not my preference any more than theirs. I just like my chain real sharp. ;)
I touch up my chain after I fill-up the tank, every time. Hand file.
I went to a Stihl dealer and was looking at both the Husky and the Stihl. They didn't give me the time of day. So I went a couple more miles to another dealer and bought the Stihl. He went through the saw with me showing me all the stuff to do, especially starting. Yep, full choke, 1 or 2 pulls until burp, the "half" choke and off you go!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 29, 2013, 12:38:32 AM
I touch up my chain after I fill-up the tank, every time. Hand file.
I went to a Stihl dealer and was looking at both the Husky and the Stihl. They didn't give me the time of day. So I went a couple more miles to another dealer and bought the Stihl. He went through the saw with me showing me all the stuff to do, especially starting. Yep, full choke, 1 or 2 pulls until burp, the "half" choke and off you go!
After it "burps" or tries to start I think you are just suppose to turn it to "On" or whatever the one right below off is or you will flood it. At least that is what I just did a few hours ago. All I have ever used is the "Half Choke" because I guess it was so hot outside it was not needed. You can start the MS290 on the "Full Choke" and it will just auto rev until you press it in once.
Really sucks because I just realized since my saw is working now I have no excuse not to work tomorrow.
Another thing, do you guys know if you can sharpen the "Non-Safety/ Semi-Aggressive/ Square Tooth" chain with the same file you would use for the Safety/ Round Chain? Because I know for a fact that you can not or at least not suppose to sharpen the Square Tooth chain with the same wheel and angle that you would use for a rounded chain. Does this also apply to the hand files?
About the high test stuff,I guess I better stick with my old 372. The only places that sells good gas is the airports. I have never went there to buy any,so have no idea if it's a big bother or not.
For start up, go full choke, all the way down until it burbs. Then up one notch to half choke until it starts. Blip the throttle trigger to bring it to idle then rev full throttle few seconds to warm up. You probably had it flooded before so it took off easy once it fired.
I start mine and let it idle while I put the rest of my PPE on. Usually my gloves, ear buds and ear muffs n glasses. I do rev the engine a little before cutting, but don't race it. I let it sit for I'd say at least 30 seconds. My 441 takes a little longer then my 660 to get ready to use, but I make that time back up with the speed of the saw :) (that's verses my old saw, a ms390 that I thought was a dog and slow)
At the risk of opening up a whole new can of worms if your saw really cuts out a lot when going to full throttle more than the first few times I would think that the low speed fuel mixture is a tiny bit too lean, I'm betting if every thing else is working properly if the low speed mix was increased it would work much better.
(having never seen a ms290 up close I will assume it does have a low speed adjustment screw, if not never mind)
[quote author=Hexa Fox link=topic=69247.msg1039057#msg1039057
Well according to just about anyone that makes small engines you are suppose to avoid "High Test" or "Premium" at all costs. They tell you it will void your warranty if they figure out you are using it.
[/quote]
While that may be true for some small engines, it's NOT true for most chainsaws. Chainsaws are generally designed to get more performance out of the smallest lightest weight engine. This usually means a higher compression ratio, which requires higher octane fuel.
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 01:50:58 AM
<<snip>>
All I have ever used is the "Half Choke" because I guess it was so hot outside it was not needed. You can start the MS290 on the "Full Choke" and it will just auto rev until you press it in once.
<<snip>>
I just remembered what it's called - that is the "Warm start" setting which gives you full throttle. And when you pop the throttle, it goes down to normal idle. The other thing the book says to do is to have the chain brake engaged :-\ I guess that is their lawyers talking. If the chain can't spin, then you won't get cut when you are starting. I don't do that.
I like my echo 8000. You can trust them. You might want to look at the 680 echo also and the older 670 6700 also. I have the 6700 which is like a husky 365 special with alittle less power. 8000 get heavy cutting with it for awhile. JMO
Quote from: AdkStihl on September 29, 2013, 09:16:35 AM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 28, 2013, 06:18:37 PM
new Stihl Saws require MotoMix to run properly.
(Post removed by admin.)
Of course I haven't been able to log in over at AS in 3 days :D
Dude I said the same exact thing. The first time my neighbor told me that crap I basically laughed him off his own property. Then after I took it out to the guy at Jefferson Rentals (Local Dealer) he poured my old "crappy" (87 Ethanol-Free) fuel out an replaced it with MotoMix and had it running almost a minute later. Mind you it would NOT start for anything at all with the Ethanol-Free stuff in it. My neighbor told me this was a serious problem with my Brand New saw because he is using stuff that is years old and his starts right up.
So even though I was using crappy stuff the point is it should have fired as it is Brand New. It may take some years off the saws life but no Brand New saw should act like this. I guess whoever said they all have a personality of their own was right. Because after he poured my stuff out and put the MotoMix in it started to worry me. High Test 93 costs me a few dollars along with the best oil Stihl offers to mix up a gallon. So I win either way mixing my own. A can of MotoMix is usually around $10.00 around here.
Quote from: Cut4fun on September 29, 2013, 12:19:07 PM
I like my echo 8000. You can trust them. You might want to look at the 680 echo also and the older 670 6700 also. I have the 6700 which is like a husky 365 special with alittle less power. 8000 get heavy cutting with it for awhile. JMO
I heard that the new CS-8000's are no where near as good as they used to be. Then again that is everything you buy in modern times. I did some snooping around though and found that they did recently change it. Something I really liked about it is that it is much bigger than other saws in the same category with it. Having just over 80CC where the Husqvarna 576XP is just over 70CC and more expensive. I think the equivalent Stihl in the same park. So this interested me for sure.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 29, 2013, 12:16:49 PM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 01:50:58 AM
<<snip>>
All I have ever used is the "Half Choke" because I guess it was so hot outside it was not needed. You can start the MS290 on the "Full Choke" and it will just auto rev until you press it in once.
<<snip>>
I just remembered what it's called - that is the "Warm start" setting which gives you full throttle. And when you pop the throttle, it goes down to normal idle. The other thing the book says to do is to have the chain brake engaged :-\ I guess that is their lawyers talking. If the chain can't spin, then you won't get cut when you are starting. I don't do that.
Thanks for the reply. I recently signed up with another Arborist site under the same name and asked for advice. It was very similar to this one just the major difference is the community there was horrible. So I was really fearing what would happen when I came here looking for some advice. I have seen some bad communities in my day as I am signed up for many different websites because I guess I am a young kid and have never ever been treated so badly.
I felt as if the community there came with torches and pitchforks to eradicate me from the forum. So I really appreciate you guys being patient with me and helping me out. Especially since this time it was me and not my saw.
Yeah and it sounds like their layers talking. I sort of ignore the chain brake... not sure if that is good or not.
Quote from: John Mc on September 29, 2013, 11:44:59 AM
While that may be true for some small engines, it's NOT true for most chainsaws. Chainsaws are generally designed to get more performance out of the smallest lightest weight engine. This usually means a higher compression ratio, which requires higher octane fuel.
I will keep this in mind thanks John. Also I hope I do not have another problem to worry about because I just bought a Stihl FS-56 (I Think) and I am using the "High Test" fuel for both my saw and weed-eater. I am also considering buying a blower but I think it can wait until next year and I will probably want to use the same stuff in it.
Quote from: thecfarm on September 29, 2013, 07:32:56 AM
About the high test stuff,I guess I better stick with my old 372. The only places that sells good gas is the airports. I have never went there to buy any,so have no idea if it's a big bother or not.
I have never heard of air ports selling gas. I do not live close to any so I guess I would not know. This is funny because my father is coming home from an air port Tuesday. I might get him to pick me up a gallon or so. Can you get the real good stuff?
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 12:50:50 PM
I guess I am a young kid and have never ever been treated so badly.
By 24 you should be a man and both think and act like one.Good luck with your saw and welcome to the forum.
I have never got gas from a airport. I am talking about a small airport,like the single engine plane. Someone told me I could get it from Norridgewock,about 45 minutes from me. I have no idea if I could get it from them or not. I don't have any problems with the gas I use. Or I don't think I am doing any damage to my saw.
The Regional Airports sell fuel for airboat operators here because they wouldn't run without avgas. They used to sell for the Drag strip cars at Moroso. Now It's called Palm Beach Intl raceway and they have their own tanks now as it's been sold to another group. You can probably buy at racetracks if you have any local. I don't think you need it though.
I've had the ms280 for a few years now. It's a great saw. It was hard starting when new but no problems since. Starts right after the choke burp.
Quote from: Paul_H on September 29, 2013, 03:11:39 PM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 12:50:50 PM
I guess I am a young kid and have never ever been treated so badly.
By 24 you should be a man and both think and act like one.Good luck with your saw and welcome to the forum.
I guess I have gotten to used to you old guys calling me a young hard headed kid and just learned to live with it now.
Yeah I am going to keep buying 93 from either Sunoco or Shell as people say they are pretty good around here.
Man everyone is double my age around here lol. I really do appreciate the help from the community here, thanks guys.
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 04:21:47 PM
I guess I have gotten to used to you old guys calling me a young hard headed kid and just learned to live with it now.
My son is 25 and I haven't thought of him as a boy since he was 15 but even then he was working and pulling his weight at home,school and at his place of employment.We have some younger members in their teens that have been good contributing members here for awhile so there is room for all ages.I know for a fact you are over twice the age of some that read the posts here on the forum.
Hardheadedness is a stumbling block to learning and a frustration to both teacher and student. :P
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 12:44:08 PM
Quote from: Cut4fun on September 29, 2013, 12:19:07 PM
I like my echo 8000. You can trust them. You might want to look at the 680 echo also and the older 670 6700 also. I have the 6700 which is like a husky 365 special with alittle less power. 8000 get heavy cutting with it for awhile. JMO
I heard that the new CS-8000's are no where near as good as they used to be. Then again that is everything you buy in modern times. I did some snooping around though and found that they did recently change it. Something I really liked about it is that it is much bigger than other saws in the same category with it. Having just over 80CC where the Husqvarna 576XP is just over 70CC and more expensive. I think the equivalent Stihl in the same park. So this interested me for sure.
The new CS8000 saws are better than they used to be with improved porting and domed pistons. If they lost 2# they'd be great Steve
Foxy,sounds to me like a simple carb adjustment may end your problems.I would go back to the dealer and explain to him you can't afford continued use of that designer fuel and would like him to adjust the carb to a good grade of gas.In fact I would bring a can of your mix with you.Every tree guy I've ever known filed his chains.Sometime it wouldn't hurt to buy a chain grinder to use if the chain is rocked out or just to even it up,but file on the job. Frank C.
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 04:21:47 PM
Quote from: Paul_H on September 29, 2013, 03:11:39 PM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 12:50:50 PM
I guess I am a young kid and have never ever been treated so badly.
By 24 you should be a man and both think and act like one.Good luck with your saw and welcome to the forum.
I guess I have gotten to used to you old guys calling me a young hard headed kid and just learned to live with it now.
There's a few young guns around here, don't worry ;D
I've been on here for the last 4 or 5 years, don't post alot, but read alot. I've learned so much from this site, and it was a darn sight cheaper than my college degree ::)
I had the same prob with mine back in '03.After 8or 9BPMR7a plugs I found out it was the way I started it.Runs perfect now after about 75 cords.I use only real oil.Stihl hi performance orange bottle,hi octane gas.After you fouled it with synth.oil check the spark arrester screen.I have anew MS290 and 170 all run great.Don't baby it.Put an elato-start handle on it.a great $20 investment.I have 12stihl and 40 or 50 other oldies but goodies.95% are running.They're not dead 'til I say they're dead.
After you check spark arrester screen,re-adjust carburator.New ms 290 farm boss has catalytic converter in muffler,supposedly.
Hope this helped.
Saw dog,Maine
chainsaw dog,welcome to the forum. Where abouts in Maine?
Other than jet fuel (which is basically like a very clean diesel fuel with some other additives), the gas fuel airports sell is known as 100 LL (for 100 octane, Low Lead), and is commonly referred to as "AvGas". A large airport will laugh you off the field if you come to them looking to buy a few gallons of AvGas. Some small airports will be happy to sell it to you. In my area, the prices range from $5.70 to about $6.70 per gallon. Note that this is leaded gas, and that the term "low lead" is a bit of a misnomer: it contains significantly more lead than the old leaded auto fuel. I'm a pilot, and have easy, regular access to AvGas, but I don't burn it in my saws. A chainsaw's exhaust is fairly close to your face, and inhaling tetraethyl lead fumes is not the wisest thing you can do
Some small airports also stock auto gas, since some piston aircraft engines are able to run safely on that (and it's a lot cheaper than AvGas). Those that do sock it generally make SURE they are getting ethanol-free auto gas. It's also more likely than not premium auto gas.
NOTE: 100 LL AvGas will not be around in the long term. There is a push to get rid of this, since it is the last leaded fuel in the world. There are a number of companies trying to develop a high octane unleaded aircraft fuel. It's not all that difficult to come up with a way to make a 100 octane unleaded gas; the trick is to make it at a price that's affordable. (BTW... 100 octane is overkill for all but the most highly modified chainsaws. Your stock chainsaw will not run "better" or have more power running 100 octane AvGas vs running a good 91 or 93 octane auto gas.)
Quote from: celliott on September 29, 2013, 08:11:57 PM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 04:21:47 PM
Quote from: Paul_H on September 29, 2013, 03:11:39 PM
Quote from: Hexa Fox on September 29, 2013, 12:50:50 PM
I guess I am a young kid and have never ever been treated so badly.
By 24 you should be a man and both think and act like one.Good luck with your saw and welcome to the forum.
I guess I have gotten to used to you old guys calling me a young hard headed kid and just learned to live with it now.
There's a few young guns around here, don't worry ;D
I've been on here for the last 4 or 5 years, don't post alot, but read alot. I've learned so much from this site, and it was a darn sight cheaper than my college degree ::)
Cool man, so if you do not mind me asking what did you get your degree in? Something Construction or Forestry related perhaps? I just finished my General Education courses and planning to take Information Technology as my major. I am a super computer nerd, but the Forestry and Landscaping business I do on the side has treated me really well over the years around here. I heard Criminal Justice and Sociology are a waste of time around here unless you are really really serious. So I am seeking out the only thing I excel at. I could be convinced to change to something related to my side business.
As in ten years from now I think I would rather picture my self driving around a tractor and working outside rather than inside screwing with computer hardware and software. Especially if I can make a living doing it.
[/quote] Cool man, so if you do not mind me asking what did you get your degree in? Something Construction or Forestry related perhaps? [/quote]
Yup, Forest technology. I just finished up a 3 month job cruising timber in Northern NH. It paid well, but, now it's over. Was always a temporary job. Now back on the job hunt again.
No matter what aspect of this industry you're in, chances are you probably aren't in it to get rich, but because you love it. Yeah, I had to work in the humidity, the cold, the rain, etc. nasty days, but then there was the beautiful days, cool, sunny, and you get to the top of a ridge and get a sweet view of the foliage, and you think, this is my office 8) Makes all the nasty days worth it.
Oh yeah, good luck with the saw :D Any questions, post them up, plenty of very knowledgeable chainsaw folks around here. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask ;)
Thanks for the welcome.I'm in central Maine near Dover Foxcroft
Quote from: chainsaw dog on September 30, 2013, 09:45:03 AM
Thanks for the welcome.I'm in central Maine near Dover Foxcroft
Wear the Fox Hat ;D
I had a visit to the Walbro website and found this very useful manual.
http://www.walbro.com/media/21936/SERVICEMANUAL.pdf (http://www.walbro.com/media/21936/SERVICEMANUAL.pdf)
Pages 9 onwards might be very useful
Joe
Quote from: celliott on September 30, 2013, 06:24:19 AM
Yup, Forest technology. I just finished up a 3 month job cruising timber in Northern NH. It paid well, but, now it's over. Was always a temporary job. Now back on the job hunt again.
No matter what aspect of this industry you're in, chances are you probably aren't in it to get rich, but because you love it. Yeah, I had to work in the humidity, the cold, the rain, etc. nasty days, but then there was the beautiful days, cool, sunny, and you get to the top of a ridge and get a sweet view of the foliage, and you think, this is my office 8) Makes all the nasty days worth it.
Oh yeah, good luck with the saw :D Any questions, post them up, plenty of very knowledgeable chainsaw folks around here. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask ;)
Yeah that is sort of the way it is treating me now. When you have the work and the right people it pays really well. The problem is some people want you to come work your @$$ off for a little bit of nothing. The others or "Good Americans" as I like to refer to them will give you the hard work and have a shovel and a pile of cash ready to shovel it your way. Those are the people I love working for.
Quote from: AdkStihl on September 30, 2013, 11:46:08 AM
Quote from: chainsaw dog on September 30, 2013, 09:45:03 AM
Thanks for the welcome.I'm in central Maine near Dover Foxcroft
Wear the Fox Hat ;D
Fox hat?as in Fox raciing gear?Do you know me?I have lots of fox hats,they go with my KX 500,and go on after the helmet comes off.These days I mostly wear Stihl hats.Maybe I could use kawasaki race oil in my saws...
I bought my 290 3 years ago, as my 30 yr old 024 was starting to get a little weak. I've cut probably 50 cord with it by now, and still love it. I cut mostly hard wood and it powers through with the 20" bar. For the money, I don't think you can get a better saw.
Looks like someone threw a fit over me typing @$$ into the forum here. Got a personal message from someone "Just Saying" which felt kind of threatening. Pretty garbage if you ask me.
Back to the subject and preferably someone that is using more than one method to sharpen there chainsaw chain. What are your guys two cents on the best method to sharpen a saw is. Some people say not to waste your time with a file if you are doing a lot of cutting. Others say a file is really the only way to go no matter what the situation.
Really I guess I should try to explain what I am looking for. I cut frequently, and may be cutting even more this winter, but would not say I am cutting a lot. So what I am looking for is something that will get the chain back to as close to factory or possibly even better than factory if possible. If a file is the way to do this I am definitely going to try to learn how to properly use one. I think if taking the time to prep my saw and maintain the chain makes it cut like new or better it will be well worth it in the end. Especially compared to some expensive grinder that could just take too much out of the chain.
Also there are all these new inventions, jigs, and the like out too. That Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener has really good reviews, but like I said I think I am way deeper than just the "Weekend Warrior" type of guy. So with that in mind, what do you guys think?
You make your own decision as to what works best for you, the bottom line being a sharp chain.
No one else can do more than say what they like but you need to go with what you like.
Some admit they can't get the hang of using a hand file, and others say they can't get the hang of using a grinder.
For me, I have file jigs but it takes longer to clamp a jig to the bar and line up all the settings than it does to clamp the bar in a vice and hand file. If I would use a grinder, then I would have to figure the time to drop the chain off the bar and set it up in the grinder. Too long for me.
For you, makes no diff what we prefer, it is you that needs to be happy and get a good sharpening. ;D
And don't thumb your nose at getting tipped off about the language here. It just doesn't fly here.
Does sound like you have been fairly warned and hope that isn't a problem with you. ;)
I,d say if your going to use a saw you might as well learn to file it. As far as grinders or clamp on file jigs go it might be handy to have one to fix up a chain if it gets too far out of whack or if you hit a rock or nail.
However you choose to sharpen the key is the end results...a sharp chain.
Tip: If you had said work your butt off I'd bet no one would have raised an eyebrow, if you have to use $%$&^%$ it probably won't fly around here. you'll catch on. Think of it this way my 8 year old will sit next to me and look to see what I'm reading.
Get yourself a few files and a few chains for your saw(s). Some have witness marks on the tooth to reference off, the Carlton chains I have do. Either way, just practice when they are dull. Its not that tough and a lot easier on the fly than swapping chains. If you hit a rock or metal in the wood then swap it out. I keep a marker to mark the starting place and just go. Once you have it you can move right along. Watch the chips on a good or new chain, that's what you want from ones you file.
Hexa Fox, if someone was giving you a heads up about word usage privately you may take that as some constructive criticism rather than being called out in a thread. Using them them also gives someone work who has to do the editing.
There was also a response to you in this thread that had to be removed for foul language. Moving forward, just remember this is a family site.
Here is what I generally use for sharpening the teeth. Some folks can hand file using a bare file with no guide... I'm not one of those folks. I can do it, but find I spend more timechecking to make sure my depth or alignment hasn't gotten out of whack. THe guide makes that easy. It holds the file at the right depth in relation to the tooth, and it has reference marks for various angles. You don't clamp it to the bar, so it's quick to set up. The guide is specific to the size file you are using, so if you have chains that use different files, you'll need more than one of these types of guides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16836/2596/Oregon_File_holder.jpg)
Here's what I use for filing down the depth gauges (aka "rakers") - I use the one on the left.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16836/Husky_Depth_Gauge_tool.jpg)
There are numerous threads on here about sharpening techniques and equipment. You can pick up some useful tips by doing a search.
Quote from: John Mc on October 02, 2013, 06:35:39 AM
Here is what I generally use for sharpening the teeth. Some folks can hand file using a bare file with no guide... I'm not one of those folks. I can do it, but find I spend more timechecking to make sure my depth or alignment hasn't gotten out of whack. THe guide makes that easy. It holds the file at the right depth in relation to the tooth, and it has reference marks for various angles. You don't clamp it to the bar, so it's quick to set up. The guide is specific to the size file you are using, so if you have chains that use different files, you'll need more than one of these types of guides.
There are numerous threads on here about sharpening techniques and equipment. You can pick up some useful tips by doing a search.
Yeah just about anywhere you go now will sell these guides along with whatever else you need in one package. Simply because they can make more money off of it. You can buy a couple files for a few dollars. Stihl packages the file for sharpening the teeth, another for the depth gauge, and then of course the guide. Thing is I remember it being just under $30.00. It is just a little kit for everything you need, all you have to do is match up what chain pitch you have with what kid is over there and you are good to go.
Quote from: Mooseherder on October 02, 2013, 04:26:23 AM
Hexa Fox, if someone was giving you a heads up about word usage privately you may take that as some constructive criticism rather than being called out in a thread. Using them them also gives someone work who has to do the editing.
There was also a response to you in this thread that had to be removed for foul language. Moving forward, just remember this is a family site.
I am going to leave it like it is. I have been on the internet since I was born pretty much and I major in Information Technology Management so I know what it is like. There is no where you can go now with out seeing "foul language". It is just something someone wants to use to start trouble and use for a chance to complain about. I see it every single day of my life.
For the record if your children or young people hear a foul word and think it is okay to use it then that is their guardians problem. That is 0% my problem. Like it was said before I am an adult and can make my own decisions on what I type on the internet. Also it is not like I use it excessively and the only "foul language" I have used here is @$$ and s***.
Even online communities that are set up for the youngest of viewers such as Cartoon Network or Adult Swim (Ages 14+ so not really "Adult") have places where you can post comments and have conversations. Even when profanity is blurred out people find a way.
So I am not trying to be an @$$ to anyone in anyway here but if you have young people and you are scared of what they are going to see over your shoulder or on their own computers you should not have them near the internet. Because there is no avoiding it. If I have people on my back here about typing @$$ then you are either just doing it to be aggravating or this website is literally the only place you come on the entire internet.
And we started off so nicely. :D
You may be used to setting up ground rules in places you show up at but be advised it won't fly here. Don't even use the $&@ for purpose of illustration or example. Let's not even discuss it again.
Yep.
Can't let it go. I stand by Jeff and all of the administrators on this site. You don't like what they said to you,either take what they said and abide by the rules or leave. very simple. Keep it clean or leave. And this is the only place that I can come to and don't see the swearing,name calling, and all the other stuff that I don't want or need to read.
Hexa-
As another administrator on the Forum, I'll try and give you a point of view so you can understand.
What goes on elsewhere on the internet doesn't concern us here. If your child comes home from school and tells you that their friends parents let them do something that you find objectionable, you don't just say, "that's OK then." Nope, you stick by the rules, mores, ethics and standards by which you want your family to live. You don't bend to "what everybody else does".
So what you find as acceptable and normal for the wide world of the internet is not necessarily acceptable and normal for us here. We have respectful, civil conversation here and don't tolerate forays to the edge of that very long. So if you are "an adult" and can "make my own decisions about what I type on the interent", then you're really saying that it's about you. Not here it's not. It's about all of us.
As you can tell, the threads on the FF are monitored. If you want to become part of this family, then understand how we interact and why. You don't seem to get that the comments you've already received about language on the Forum are not soley about protecting children from foul language. We don't have these rules to protect anybody from words they already know. We have them to maintain the level of conversation on this Forum at an extremely highly informational and respectful level. Name calling and profanity are simply not tolerated, even if implied or blurred. Time for you to get it, my friend.
Why don't you read a bit of the Forum for awhile and see what we are talking about.
I will include a link, this may help.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=rules (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=rules)
Please realize that you came on hear to ask advise for your saw, others took time out of their lives to help you be thankful. Notice it did not cost another $40.
If you came over to my house and asked for help with your saw and I did not approve of your behaviour I would politely tell you, if you did not improve your behaviour you would be asked to leave. It is not just about the !@#$.
Please realize we are all at Jeff's house here.
Apologetic instead of confrontational would have been more appropriate.
Quote from: Hexa Fox on October 01, 2013, 10:31:12 PMBack to the subject and preferably someone that is using more than one method to sharpen there chainsaw chain. What are your guys two cents on the best method to sharpen a saw is. Some people say not to waste your time with a file if you are doing a lot of cutting. Others say a file is really the only way to go no matter what the situation.
Really I guess I should try to explain what I am looking for. I cut frequently, and may be cutting even more this winter, but would not say I am cutting a lot. So what I am looking for is something that will get the chain back to as close to factory or possibly even better than factory if possible. If a file is the way to do this I am definitely going to try to learn how to properly use one. I think if taking the time to prep my saw and maintain the chain makes it cut like new or better it will be well worth it in the end. Especially compared to some expensive grinder that could just take too much out of the chain. So with that in mind, what do you guys think?
If you want a factory edge, use a grinder. Learn how to use it properly. Chain sharpening is a science not an art. When you have them off the bar, it gives you a chance to get the rivets clean. Cleanliness is next to Godliness, or at least that's what we used to say in the bush.
Quote from: Hexa Fox on October 03, 2013, 02:14:24 AM
Quote from: Mooseherder on October 02, 2013, 04:26:23 AM
Hexa Fox, if someone was giving you a heads up about word usage privately you may take that as some constructive criticism rather than being called out in a thread. Using them them also gives someone work who has to do the editing.
There was also a response to you in this thread that had to be removed for foul language. Moving forward, just remember this is a family site.
I am going to leave it like it is. I have been on the internet since I was born pretty much and I major in Information Technology Management so I know what it is like. There is no where you can go now with out seeing "foul language". It is just something someone wants to use to start trouble and use for a chance to complain about. I see it every single day of my life.
For the record if your children or young people hear a foul word and think it is okay to use it then that is their guardians problem. That is 0% my problem. Like it was said before I am an adult and can make my own decisions on what I type on the internet. Also it is not like I use it excessively and the only "foul language" I have used here is @$$ and s***.
Even online communities that are set up for the youngest of viewers such as Cartoon Network or Adult Swim (Ages 14+ so not really "Adult") have places where you can post comments and have conversations. Even when profanity is blurred out people find a way.
So I am not trying to be an @$$ to anyone in anyway here but if you have young people and you are scared of what they are going to see over your shoulder or on their own computers you should not have them near the internet. Because there is no avoiding it. If I have people on my back here about typing @$$ then you are either just doing it to be aggravating or this website is literally the only place you come on the entire internet.
You remind me of an old newbie over on AS......
Sledrat
go_away
Late to the party on this one as I am up hunting with limited internet, but be assured the other admins have no real need for me any how. I just wanted to point out that a ban was put into effect quite effortlessly without any input on my part. Thank you gentlemen. :)
Aw shucks I missed it too .Just as well I guess . ;) :-X
This discussion went downhill in a hurry so I thought best to stay out of it. The young turk has a lot to learn in spite of what he thinks, is he so important and influential that the world cares what he does and is out to do him in? Glad this one was nipped in the bud, he certainly has little if anything to contribute.
Well I guess it came out pretty quick why he was used to being called a "hard headed KID" on other forums ::)
Behind the computer screen, maybe 1000's of miles away, you really are only as old and mature as you act (type).