I just installed a CB5036. I added a garage heater made from a car radiator and can't seem to get good flow thru it. The furnace works fine when I bypass it. The rad sits 7ft off the floor, and the supply line goes into the bottom of the left tank with the cap on top. I had to "T" in a valve on the right tank outlet to get all the air out of the system. Am I doing something wrong? Or do I need an 009?
I have a unit heater,it's really what you described,but I have a fan behind mine. I have an 007 too. Mine unit is about 7 feet off the floor too. I have one in my basement too. I have no idea what maybe wrong,but the 007's work for me. In fact I had some bigger ones and they was too big.
Without knowing your line length's, size and number of fittings, we can't even guess at the amount of head you need.
The 007 is good for about 10 feet of head and will flow about 20 gallons a minute. What I'm curious about is the location of the supply inlet. You say its at the bottom the tank? Is the return outlet at the top? If possible, I would try swapping the two around. Or at least try rotating the radiator 90°. I'm not sure any pump can overcome the pressure of moving water up through the rad. Any pictures?
75ft from boiler to house, 30ft to water heater, 30ft to furnace, 30ft back to thermopex where the bypass valves are for the garage heater. 30ft to garage heater. 1" pex lines with 3/4npt fittings. Total elevation change of 15ft. The highest point above pump is 5-6ft.
I put a garden hose in the rad before I installed it, and it kept up with the flow.
From what I understand, is that you want to supply exchangers from the bottom.
The return is on top of the tank on the other side of the rad.
If you can easily move the rad down to the floor temporarily it will answer the head question. How much flow did you get out of the bleed valve when you bled the air? If you didn't let it run, and you can, I would check the flow out of the bleed valve at normal height and at the floor.
I had a lot of flow when bleeding. Once the air was out, I had no flow.
the tubes are to small in a car radiator it wont flow
Quote from: turbo885 on October 30, 2013, 12:05:06 PM
the tubes are to small in a car radiator it wont flow
Really?
It flowed while a garden hose was put in it.
It flowed while it was in a car.
How is it different?
You might need a "monoflow" fitting instaed of just a T. It directs the flow into the rad instead of it just wandering around where it wants.
http://yaunco.com/ycreport/july99noframe/redring.html
Could you please describe in more detail the valve/tee setup where the lines go to the garage. Am I right when I think you mean the lines come into your basement from your OWB and then go to the garage. Also do you mean the whole setup stops heating if the garage is included in the loop?
I'll try and take photos tonite.
Yes, the water seems to stop flowing, or very slow, with the rad in the loop.
My lines travel to the DHW first, then to the forced air furnace for the house, then to the garage, then back to the basement, to the OWF.
The bypass valves are at the entrance of the Themopex into the basement.
With Valve 1 closed, and valve 2 open,(garage bypassed) I have good flow.
With valve 2 closed and valve 1 open, poor flow.
If I understand you right you only have one pump in your system. Is this correct? I have a car radiator also and I have a 50 run to the pole barn and about a 6 foot rise. I am feeding from the top and out the bottom then back to the furnace. I have an 007 pump running it. My heater has fittings on it so I can bypass the radiator if I want. I have an 007 pump going to the house also. You may have to have another pump in your system
Yes, 1 007 pump.
Looking at your drawing... it is easier for the water to just go back to the OWB than it is for it to go to the radiator unless you are closing the center valve. Are you closing that one and still not getting flow/heat ???
Yes, center valve (valve 2) closed.
Do you have a way to check the temp of the water before the rad and after the furnace ( at valve 1 ) ?
Unless there is another loop off the system somewhere that connects back to the return after the rad, it Has to flow thru the rad. when valve 2 is closed.
Do you know what the water temp is where it is going into the garage rad? You may be almost out of heat by the time it gets there. I would add the second pump if it was me
When you tested the flow in the rad with a hose, was the input to the same place ?
I got wondering if radiators have monoflows in them....
I think Sprucebunny is on the right track. You may need mono flow tees but... Head has no relationship to height, it is a term for resistance and friction loss.. A car radiator has very small tubes in it and that creates a large friction loss or a lot of head. The 007 might be to small, but if it is piped wrong then pump size will not solve the problem. I could not open the picture you posted so I can't see how the piping is installed
I'd add a distribution manifold with two 007 size circulators, one for the garage and one for the house with another larger one feeding the manifold. I prefer Grundfos over tacos ;) ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10027/CIMG0939.JPG)
I don't have a pic showing the main pump. It's to the right and down. These circulate water through tubing in the 1st and 2nd floor. One for each floor.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10027/CIMG0937.JPG)
Not that it matters,my pumps are behind the OWB.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10436/thecfarmoutdoorfurn1%7E1.jpg)
And this is my unit heater in the basement,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10436/thecfarmoutdoorfurn2.jpg)
I've got one pump on the stove that feeds the old part of the house. It'll be moved into the basement eventually. I'd rather have the pumps in the building if elevations allow it.
All good advice from everybody that I can see to get the flow issue resolved.
Having all the heat exchangers on one circuit, even with enough flow, has got to be hard on the boiler. As far as firebox condensation.
I am having download problems now could someone post the flow drawing directly on the thread please?
Quote from: r.man on October 31, 2013, 08:29:17 AM
I am having download problems now could someone post the flow drawing directly on the thread please?
I tried to post drawing but, it's an xls file and can't be uploaded to the thread.
And by-the-way r.man, Happy Birthday.
Thank you Bill and Happy Halloween to you.
i have 2 modine heaters in my garage. they are bolth 12' off the floor and its only 20' to the owb. i have had trouble a couple times in the fall when i first start a fire. the water will not circulate. so i put a tee and a valve so that i can hook the garden hose to it. turn it on and after a few mins all is fine
Quote from: WmFritz on October 30, 2013, 10:45:24 PM
All good advice from everybody that I can see to get the flow issue resolved.
Having all the heat exchangers on one circuit, even with enough flow, has got to be hard on the boiler. As far as firebox condensation.
I think zoning or a primary/secondary set up would be better
My system has a Taco 007 on the back of the OWB, and another one in the house (both on the primary loop). I was told running 2 pumps would eliminate air problems, and give better pump life. I would suggest putting your exchangers on secondary loops, if you get too many restrictions on your primary loop your pump will have a hard time with it.
check out heatinghelp.com, excellent website- it will help you with your piping questions
I have the same setup with a car radiator in the basement. Get a 3 speed grundfos superbrute pump and you can adjust your flow. It's a better pump and its cheaper. The grundfos is as much as a cartridge for taco.
I installed a taco 009, and everything is working good.
Thanks for all your help.