Finnished this yesterday
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/cuttingboard52104-1opt.jpg)
William
nice wood!!!
That looks great William, I've been thinking of making one for myself. Can you tell me the details of yours like how thick, how you glued it up and what kind of finish you used.
Nice cutting board William (https://forestryforum.com/smile/thumb.gif) love the grain !!
Norm_F.
For a finish on wooden ware I use mineral oil and cut 25% with VM&P Naphtha. I store it in a glass jar, when I'm ready to use it I warm it up-- spreads easier. Vegetable oil will turn rancid.
just my 2 cents
pappy
You can use Linseed oil as well for works your going to prepare food on. In potato storage shed they use this, you are not allowed to use any toxic finishes on wood used to line food storage facilities of course. Looks like nice curly grain in your hard maple cutting board. An old friend of mine made a few for his neighbors and my grandmother some years back. My uncle uses it often. Those old folks are all gone now :'( .
Norm:
I think I'de use bisket joints between pieces , so it would not sheer apart if dropped on the floor by mistake. Then there's the toes, can't forget the steel toed slippers. :D :D
Use water based glue, something like carpenter's white glue will degrade if moister gets at the glued joint from washing the board. I'de use pumice or rotten stone to polish the wood like glass, use a felt pad on the power sander to polish. You can mix Linseed oil or water to the pumice or rotten stone to make a paste so you don't just end up clearing all the powder from the wood surface. ;) :)
Wiam, that is some beautiful wood. Looks like flamed maple.
I've made many cutting boards over the years because they make fine gifts. I rip cherry, walnut and maple boards 1 inch thick and flip them up and glue them together in a pattern. By flipping them up, it doesn't matter what thickness the board is because now they are all 1 inch. I've glued them together using Titebond II glue and then finished them with several heavy coats of mineral oil. I've never needed to use biscuits or dowels and I've never had any joints fail. I see that Titebond has now come out with a Titebond III which is more waterproof yet. Of course, I tell people never to put them in a dishwasher or to soak them in water. Just handwash and dry.
Wiam
Reminds me of years ago when I worked for AMF. We made laminated bowling pins out of hard maple.
The guy on the break down saw would save out all of the pretty grain. then during noon hour we would glue it up in panels. Light, dark, birdseye, curly, tiger solid or mixed grain what ever looked good to you. Five minutes to one we took it out of the clamps and ran it through the planer. The foreman always waited till the government work was done to make his rounds.
Minimum wage job but it made a lot of birthday presents, Chritmas to.
Junkyard
Nice looking cutting board you made there William . :o
I have made a few also and finished them with butcherblock oil that Woodcraft sells . I almost forgot I glued mine up with Gorilla glue with no biscuits or dowels .
I used Tightbond II. The finnish is mineral oil.
William
Well that does it!!!!
Just today I was trying to figure out what to do with a couple of small pieces of birdseye. I think I'll make a cherry and birdseye cutting board! ;)
Oh, and that IS a real nice looking cutting board. Thanks for the idea!
Nice board.
I've made one from a solid Poplar slab. 3/4 in thick with oak strip dowelled into a channel on each end to stop warping. The poplar is surprisingly tough and cleans up easily. Used mineral oil for finish.
Egon