I'm considering tulip poplar b&b siding on the house. Question is, how best to go about it, considering the existing construction. It's 2x4 frame, with tyvek right on the frame, and t1-11 siding on top. Would I be ok to put the poplar right ove the t1-11, put something on first, or tear it all off and start over....?
As long as the T-111 is still solid, I wouldn't hesitate putting board and batten siding right over it.
It is not rotten, although there are places where the nails were loosened over the years. I used 3" ceramic deck screws to draw the t1-11 tight again and it cracked/ separated at some of the "false seams" that are in the panels. I'm assuming even then, I'm good to go? Thanks!
I would consider using screws for the B&B so it will stay well secured to the t1-11 better. I would think nails would tend to pull out. Either that or run some firring strips nailed to the studs.
A follow up on Lee's post, if there are some areas that are in question, can you put a patch over that area? And then use the firring strips Lee mentioned? As to the wood, I'm not real familiar with tulip, but have heard much about it, and it sounds very feasible, david
I don't really think I'd need to patch as it is solid and intact, save for a couple places where the laminations failed and the t1-11 cracked.
I can't help but think that any gap I leave behind the siding will make for a wasp/hornet issue. They invade every available gap and crevice in anything and everything around here. Being that direct attachment is an option, I'm assuming that is going to be the best option.
Quite a few houses in the immediate area have unteated tulip poplar as siding, so it'll fit in fine. Thanks again for the info!
You will still have cracks and gaps with the B&B if you direct apply. You can do away with most of them by applying the firring strips and caulking the joints. That will also leave a space behind the siding to allow any water that gets in to dry and help prevent rot.
I would probably wrap over the plywood with 15# felt (tar paper) and then screw my board and batten right on top of it, no firring strips or latting.
I used stainless screws when I did my B&B [hemlock].
all boards dried 2+ years, bleached, stained, bark side out,