I am switching to WM blades and was about to order a box. I assumed 10 degree but their website puts the 4 degree first, whether I put in softwood or medium hardwood. I saw all beetle kill pine for my buildings but saw all dead ash and bur oak for custom sawing. I can't afford two boxes of blades now, what do you recommend? I am switching to Woodmizer blades because I got twice as many sharpenings out of a band compared to Timberwolf (although the Timberwolf cut really fast and smooth in pine). I tried Lennox but broke lots of teeth when setting. Thanks
People will be able to recommend blades better, based on what kind of mill you have and the engine size.
Right, lt40 with 28 horse kohler
Give Wood-Mizer a call and have them send you a "mixed" box, some of each hook!
I have an LT40HDG28.
About a 1/3 of what I cut is beetle kill (dead) and a lot of good frozen pine with some spruce, Aspen/Poplar and then a bit of Birch and box alder.
I use the 10* Double Hards for the most part and keep a box of the 10* razor tips on hand for cutting real dry stuff and birch.
I have found that keeping my tooth off set at the 30 to 32 range is the best for the cutting conditions that I have in this area with the woods that I cut.
My experience indicates that the tooth off set is at least as important as the hook angle.
My recommendation is WM 10° DoubleHard blades, but give WM a call. 1-800-525-8100.
Quote from: trhill on December 26, 2013, 11:49:52 AM
Right, lt40 with 28 horse kohler
TR....I have the LT40HD and have the 29hp. The best ALL AROUND blade for me is the 10 or 7.
Most of my blades are 10° and they give me good service. I saw mostly green logs. If I saw hard dry logs, I use a 7° or a 4°
If I am sawing W I D E slabs, I like to use a 7°. It just seems to work better for me.
If I had to only get one box of blades, it would not be the 4°. They are for very hard woods, and also saw slower than the higher hook angle blades. I use them for hickory, pecan, and dry oak.
YH
Trhill, did you select "frozen" on the WM blade selector?