Hello Friends,
My wife and I bought and installed a new Kitchen Queen 480 wood-fired cook-stove...and we are very happy with how it has turned out. I've wanted a cook-stove even since my friend Steve M. put one in his house a number of years ago. I grew up in a house that had a wood-burning stove and I like the warmth, but my wife loves wood heat!!!
The cook-stove has a large firebox, large oven, and has a 25 gallon water reservoir on the backside with a gravity fed spigot. If I get the fire hot enough the water rapid boils. I am now looking for a way to draw off heat from the water and put it through some sort of radiator coil in the forced air furnace plenum. Does anyone have any suggestions before I meet with my HVAC guy?
Here are some photos of the project:
Rooster
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_02.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_01.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_03.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_05.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_04.jpg)
That's a gorgeous new stove! :) :) :)
Looks highly functional, too.
You would need a grunfos or a bell&gosset circulator pump, a couple of water pipe flanges and tubing of your choice ( I would use PEX) fittings that work with the tube you have . and a heat exchange coil for the duct. A thermostat and wiring , a little labor and your all set .
Put the pump under the floor to keep the clean look . The thermostat could be an aquastat for better response. you might want a way to kick in a fan on the duct to move air.
That's a beauty!!
wow that is a beautiful stove
yes, that is one sharp stove
Thanks guys, for the positive responses...
Yes it is very functional, and I am trying to max-out on all the different ways I can use it...need to get my money's worth. So far I'm been lucky enough to keep the installation costs low by doing most of the work myself...that is why I'm looking to guys here on the forum (like Don_Papenburg) for tech support...no sense in "re-inventing the wheel".
Thanks again,
Rooster
P.S. Tonight's cookstove meal included Jersey bull-calf porterhouse steaks on a cast-iron griddle, and baked potatoes in the oven.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_06.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_07.jpg)
Rooster,
That is a beautiful stove!
That last photo just made me hungry!
Quote from: blackfoot griz on January 29, 2014, 09:34:25 PM
Rooster,
That is a beautiful stove!
That last photo just made me hungry!
I was debating whether to post this in the food section...
Nice setup ! Stove looks awesome . Baked tators taste different cooked like that .
Forgot to tell you that I like the stove
Don,
Would this one work?
Grundfos UP15-42F, Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt
http://www.pexsupply.com/Grundfos-59896155-UP15-42F-Circulator-Pump-1-25-HP-115-volt-5571000-p
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/Pump.jpg)
It says that it is 1 speed with a flow range of 0-17 gal./min....that would mean that the entire system would cycle all the water every 2 min. ...or would the 3 speed be better?
While I'm at it, I want to add a supply line to allow me to top-off the reservoir manually... we are using some of the water for domestic use (washing dishes, filling stock pots for cooking, etc.)
Here is the diagram and photo of the reservoir and the piping on the back of the stove. (it is one continuous tank, it just looks like two separate tanks.) It is an open system, so does that mean I need a bronze or Stainless Steel pump?
Thanks,
Rooster
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/fig3.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_08.jpg)
That pump will work but it is a cast iron body pump. If you are drinking the water or "Potable" use you should use a brass body pump. Grunfos, Taco have them.
Great looking supper! food3
That would work but the brass pump would be better . Single speed would be just fine for that job. You can very the flow with a ball valve on the return line . you can use the hot water faucet as a drawoff by putting a tee behind it . the return could be connected on top . If you want a manual fill why not put a stock tank float in the tank to make it an automatic fill.
Do you have to reach around back to turn on the heat to the oven? My old cooker had a tab to lift in the back of the top to reroute the heat around the oven.
Is the top made of stainless ? and is the firebox lined with fire brick?
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on January 30, 2014, 01:38:16 PM
...you can use the hot water faucet as a drawoff by putting a tee behind it . the return could be connected on top .
Could you post a diagram of what you are referring to?
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on January 30, 2014, 01:38:16 PM
If you want a manual fill why not put a stock tank float in the tank to make it an automatic fill.
Do they make them to withstand hot water?
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on January 30, 2014, 01:38:16 PM
Do you have to reach around back to turn on the heat to the oven? My old cooker had a tab to lift in the back of the top to reroute the heat around the oven.
Is the top made of stainless ? and is the firebox lined with fire brick?
The flue-gate handle is on the back, which then allows the exhaust to flow under the oven, up the outside, over the top and out the back. There is also a gate that allows more of the cooking surface to heat up. The top is just brushed plate-steel that comes with a rust inhibitor coating that is washed off before heating. The firebox has firebricks on the sides but a steel bar grate on the bottom to allow the ash to fall into the ash removal pan.
Thanks,
Rooster
wow, that thing is nice!
Most stock tank valves are brass ,I don't know if the float is plastic or not . Brass float balls are available . I got some at Menards a few years back. The float is all that would need to be in the water.
The diagram thing ,Well not sure . but one pipe exits the bottom of the tank has a tee fitting that goes to a flexible pipe that hooks the heat exchanger in the stove and the other end of the tee connects to the water valve. That pipe can be removed and a tee put in there . maybe next to the original tee ,runthe water tube to the pump ,then reinstall the pipe and water valve
I tried come up with a possible diagram. For now I will pass on the auto-fill/float and just use a ball valve.
I'm thinking of placing the pump near the furnace so I can tap into power and make it easier to maintain or replace.
Let me know if I'm close with my drawing.
Thanks,
Rooster
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ_09.jpg)
Rooster , That would do just fine. Untill you want the automatic fill then I would move that hose up to the top edge of the water tank . make that hose long enough when you install it . (A big loop under the floor will help)
So that will be a good job for tomarrow ;D
That's some nice stove as others have said. I have eaten lots of meals off wood cook stoves, but none since my uncle passed away in 2012. He used to have a camp to, back in the 70's-80's , back on the hill from the house, where he cooked lots of burgers and onion rings for the whole dang neighborhood it seemed. :D :D
OK...so, I have learned what pump I need...the lay-out for the piping...now I need to know what kind of water to air heat exchanger I need, and how it will be mounted inside the plenum of the forced air furnace.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Rooster
P.S.
Is this what I'm looking for?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15824/KQ10.JPG)
That I don't know about but it looks like a good start to me ,will it fit in your plenum? If it was mine I would give it a go.
I'm working on a parts list and have not purchased anything as of today...just shopping on-line to help me visualize how it all needs to come together and figure out what it's going to cost to do the conversion.
I think so. This is what was put in my plenum.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10436/thecfarmoutdoorfurn2.jpg)
It came with no louvers and no fan on the back. It does work good.
Quote from: thecfarm on January 31, 2014, 06:03:41 PM
I think so. This is what was put in my plenum.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10436/thecfarmoutdoorfurn2.jpg)
It came with no louvers and no fan on the back. It does work good.
So you don't have much air flow restriction because of it?
The cold air is pushed through it with the squirrel cage from my hot air furnace. I suppose I lost some air flow since that was put in. I never measured it before the heat exchanger was put in. So I have nothing to go by. But the house is warm. ;D