I need some information on the intricacies of my set works. I will take some pictures with some "what's this" arrows, but for now is there any article or publication that covers this?
I have Efficient Sawmill Operation and some others but nothing that covers the set works itself.
Do you have Lunstrum's Circular Sawmills? Not sure that is what you meant by the one mentioned.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
Fire away with pics and questions. Someone sure to be able to help.
Chopper, the setworks on most of our circular mills are a masterpiece of simplicity and adjustable. Most have a quadrant with a number of holes for a pin, this gauges how thick your board is and adjustable to allow for kerf. The gigback varies but usally you twist the "D" handle and pump the headblocks back. As Beenthere said ask, theirs bound to be someone here that knows. Frank C.
Its interesting as they all have the same functionality but there have been many different styles, models and manufacturers over the years. I personally have a frick set works that no one so far has been able to identify, although it is frick brand product, I am guessing 1910-1935 era.
Too bad there aren't more mill manufacturers out there to buy parts from.
Ok, here are the pictures I promised. Please forgive the lack of proper terminology and the remedial questions but that's what I'm here for.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34812/DSCF3040.JPG)
By moving one of these shims, it adds 1/8". Is that what they are supposed to do?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34812/4_pawls.jpg)
Why 4 pawls and what are they for?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34812/DSCF3042.JPG)
This pin in this position sets the advance to 1" with all of the above shims in place. Right?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34812/DSCF3043.JPG)
Not a clue what these do
I'm really interested in seeing the answers to your questions myself. I've never even seen a circle mill in operation but would love to get some hands-on time on one sometime. I look forward to following your project.
The four pawls just divide the increment into four parts. If just one pawl, you would have one fourth the accuracy (or choices).
Sometimes when advancing, you want to get just a hair more for accurate board thickness, or for a better opening face. Or to get the right knee position to start a run (series of sets to take off several boards).
That additional "click" of the next pawl setting down helps get that additional accuracy. If that makes sense.
I'd be curious to hear what additional knee movement you get with each click between pawls dropping in.
1/16", or 1/8", or ??
To gain the extra accuracy, the four pawls are staggered to engage the set-shaft drum seperately.
I was thinking that it might be something like that but didn't think it would be that simple. I'll take some measurements of those segmented increments tomorrow. Thanks
It's been awhile, but let's see how close I get. The shims are for fine tuning the sets, sometimes you might have to add a little more or less to get the exact size you want.
Beenthere is right about the 4 pawls. They're at different distances so that you will always be catching part of the ratchet.
I'm not sure exactly where the 1" pin is located. Seems like each pin is 1/8". If you need boards that are 1 1/16", you would go to the next pin, and add those shims you were asking about.
The last picture are your brake on the setworks. Without it, your set wouldn't hold, and your headblocks would drift, even while you're in the saw.
i'll take a stab at this, 1st pic is of the setworks back stop. you should not need to remove any of the shims once you figure out how far you want the arm to go back. once the stop is set to your likings, no need to mess with it. second pic is of the 4 forward adjust paws. they are all of different length so that they will catch the closest notch when the arm is pushed back against the stop. when it drops in the closest notch and you pull the handle forward against the pin in pic 3. you get the same size board each time. the pin in pic 3 is removable so that you can set it where you want for the proper board thickness. the closer to the log the pin is the thicker the board, further from the log give you a thinner board. the last pic is of the back stop fingers. they work the same as the front ones in that they are slightly different lengths and catch in the closest notch to keep the setworks extended fully when you pull it forward. the back ones pull up when you go to receed the setworks. hope this is clear as mud, or maybe a little more clear. I am sure some others might do a better job but that's my take on it..
All the guys are right. Those shims are to fine adjust the quardrant pin setting to allow for different width bits or wear. Say you set the pin in the 1" hole and the board came out 7/8" you would remove A 1/8" shim that would give you a 1/8" thicker board to the full 1". My Chase setworks does the same but used a bolt and jamb nut to adjust. Frank C.
That setworks looks like mine 'cept mine has repairs. It works just like everyone said. Lube it up and cut wood.
Thanks for all the help.
I have managed to cut some pretty acceptable boards despite my limited knowledge. I had a close idea of how it all worked but it's good to get the conformation. It's a fascinating part of the machine.
The brake pawls however, had me pretty stumped.
Chopper, I'am not sure what you have for gigback but it will have to lift those pawl brakes. Frank C.
Frank, there is a bar underneath the pawl brakes that lifts them when I recede, is that what you mean?
When you flip the handle to the recede side of the setworks, it lifts both the brake pawls and the forward pawls.
If you have a power receder, there is a wheel that goes against that board and that lifts all the pawls so the headblocks are in a free wheeling mode. With all the pawls up, you can either advance or retract the headblocks without using the handle. Its all done by moving the carriage either forward or back. I don't think you have that setup on your mill. Its a real time saver. I've run a few mills with them on.
Your mill has the gear for it on the set shaft. Its to the right of the setworks and seemingly is connected to nothing.
I was about to ask about the receder. It's laying on the ground right under that gear. I've been trying to figure that one out too.
Best I figured is there is supposed to be a board for the tire part to run on with linkage running to the operators side. Am I close?
Yes you are... 8)
When gigging back the carriage from the cut, then the OP can step on that linkage near the control stick. It raises that board to contact the receder wheel and the carriage moves back. When far enough (for the next log or for the log to be turned to a new face), let off that linkage and the carriage stops moving.
Pics of those parts may be good to see for certain, and more helpful hints.
Its funny that no one made a set works that was used on a lot of machines in the day. Seems as they all had their own ideas and made them fit almost together but quite the same. Lots of frick parts of meadows and meadows parts and vance and so on.
Definitely different than the days when continental made most of the gasoline industrial engines out there.
QuoteDefinitely different than the days when continental made most of the gasoline industrial engines out there.
What days or years were they?
Not trying to change the subject, but what does your setworks look like NMFP
Here is a picture of what my setworks looked like before rebuild. Its currently disassembled and being sandblasted and repainted.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19100/IMG_1051_28229.jpg)
The steworks is on the left and the receeder is on the right.
What brand of mill? I thought you were running a Frick.
Yup, its a frick setworks. Casted Frick in the wheels but it seems to be a model that no one has seen before. Not sure why but its very simple to work on.
I never knew they mad another version than model B but I guess they did as that's the one I have.
Also, the receeder on the right is frick as well although.... everyone I have talked to that's been around handsets has never seen it. Good thing a fiend of mine has a machine shop to make all the parts I need as things wear out.
Their is a video on u tube , by a guy that calls himself Frickenjeep !
He has two video's that shows up close pictures and he explains each mill made by Frick.
He also said that he would be willing to help anybody that needed help with their old circle mills. He ether collects old mills or works for someone who does, because in the video you can see he has several mills sitting around.
I believe if you go onto u tube and search (Frick sawmills ) you should be able to find it. Good look.
I myself have watched a bunch of sawmilling stuff on u tube since the weather is crappy. LOL !!!!
I found them and for some reason, had never seen them before. Thank you. Unfortunately I didn't see the style that's on mine but I will keep looking. They aren't that hard to rebuild and work on so I am sure there can be some modification done fairly simple with parts from a model B. We shall see.
Thanks again for the information.
NMFP I think yours is older than you think . I was told that mine was pre 1910.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24096/2012-12-17_18_04_04.jpg)
Or its possible that it's not a Frick receder. Both of those setworks look pretty similar. But, the receder might be an early version of a power receder. There should be some casting numbers on those things. I can't remember what the first letter should be for Frick. You'll find a letter followed by a couple of numbers on castings like the uprights. That first letter was used to identify the mill mfg.
A lot of mill makers had parts that were almost identical to other mills. I put Frick dogs on a Farquahr carriage one time. It needed just a little adapation, as the Frick was just a little smaller. The ratchet gears were identical.
Link to one of the Fricknjeep vid's. Looks like some good viewing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LimP5udTYrA
A10, yours looks identical to mine!!!! Do you have any model numbers at all? I think its a model A for some reason but I am not sure.
Mine definitely says Frick on the sides of the wheels. I wonder if Model B replaced the model we have?
Any information you might have or could share would be appreciated. Hows does yours work?
NMFP I sent pictures of our mill to Frickco for I'd. They told me that they had only seen one like. It was a 1903 that they had just received on trade. There are differences on the husk also. Look at my pics. Fricco bought all the patents and drawings on the older fricks they mailed me a copies of the old manual. Your set works are forward and back turn handle left and pull to advance turn right and push to recede I wonder if the receder on your was added to allow you to pull to recede.
A10... I am sure it was added for that reason as it is a frick part. I spoke with a guy that owned numerous frick mills over the years and he is now 94. He had never seen the receeder like this before but knew that some options were available for purchase from frick over the years. Maybe what I have is one of them. I can say that it will quickly recede the knees. I cant remember correctly but before I disassembled for cleaning and refurbishing.. I think one pull of the receeder receeded the knees 6" so 3 pulls generally is enough for the average logs I will be sawing. The set works on the other hand was all gummed up and didn't work real smooth due to the junk build up on the wheels and the pawls.
As I was looking around on line yesterday, I found pictures of the setworks but doesn't show anything as far as model and so on... Just a picture.
Did the information they provided you give you any indication of proper assembly and a diagram of parts?
Appreciate all the help!