Red Clay Hound (henceforth referred to as "Dad") called me out in this thread (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,72237.msg1096553.html#msg1096553) about a desk he "commissioned" about a year ago. He brought the wood that he wants me to use last summer and it has been taking up valuable shop space ever since. So I am about to do something about it :)
The wood is very special. It came from a very large white oak tree that had to be taken down from Rock Eagle 4-H Center (http://www.rockeagle4h.org/) near Eatonton, GA. My Granddad helped to survey the camp back in the 1950's. Dad and both of his siblings went to 4-H camp there. So did I. And so did all of my siblings. It was like my home away from home from 5-12 grade. And Dad has worked for UGA Cooperative Extension (including the 4-H program) for over 3 decades. So, in other words, Rock Eagle is a very special place for the whole family. Which means that this white oak lumber is also very special.
Dad and I emailed back and forth a good bit to nail down the style and dimensions. I worked up a drawing in Sketchup, and after some modifications, he approved it. Since the wood is quartersawn white oak, an Arts and Crafts desk was the logical choice. One of my favorite woods, and one of my favorite styles (remember this bed (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56834.msg824092.html#msg824092)?)
So, here is the drawing I came up with:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Desk1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Desk3.jpg)
I suspect some small design changes will be made as the build progresses, but the basic dimensions are:
34" wide
72" long
30" tall
24" between the banks of drawers
25" of vertical leg room
What you have drawn is almost exactly my desk at home. I love the design. Something my desk has that I really like is a pull out board that allows more desk area. Both of them are between the top drawer and the top of the desk. Really handy when doing taxes and you have ran out of desk area and need a spot to write the checks. I might have to get pics for you.
Austin
Thanks, dablack. No need for pics, though- it's already in the design :)
Congrats on the beginning. That is the first step before finishing. ;D
Quote from: Magicman on February 18, 2014, 02:25:11 PM
Congrats on the beginning. That is the first step before finishing. ;D
Ugh. Let's not talk about finishing. That's my least favorite step by far :D
wow that will be nice! im sentimental about trees, lumber, well about anything. that's a project far beyond my skill level. good luck with it!
Make another top at the same time (best one goes on the desk) and you'll almost be done with a table to make an El to hold a computer, printer, etc. ;) ;)
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 18, 2014, 02:17:23 PM
Thanks, dablack. No need for pics, though- it's already in the design :)
Please don't listen to this Dablack, :D We love to see pictures of wooden things.
Sounds like a great project. I'm wondering if a pair of corbels added to the sides on each end under the top would add a nice touch? I have a nice design that I can share if you're interested. It's copied from a mission style dining room set that was made back in the teens.
Scott, please pass along your design, that would be great. Corbels might be a nice touch, I have seen them on a lot of old A&C furniture. I'm sure I will be doing something to give this desk a personal touch, but I haven't decided what just yet. On my bed, it was the heart and the tulip piercings on the headboard and footboard. I'm still very happy with that bed.
Looks like a nice desk there you've designed. I don't think I could get it in any room here, although the rooms here are 14 - 16 feet wide, still it would be all desk. ;)
Wouldn't fit in my house, either, Donk! I started building a desk a year ago that had a top 19" x 60". Better size for me. But I never finished it :-X
Yeah, my butternut desk is 56 x 32 and a vertical section with shelves and pigeon holes, drawers on the left under the desk. Just right for me. I have to clean it off some day so I can find it. :D
Dodgy...You should fume the oak Just before you're ready to assemble the pieces. Perhaps fume a couple scraps first to see how you like the look.
I've always wanted to try that, but not sure how to get the industrial strength ammonia. Any ideas? I think the 1% stuff from the cleaning section would take forever on a piece this large.
Safety police can hold their peace about this, I know what precautions to take and have used the 30% ammonia to make blueprints before. By the way, 5quarter, I'm surprised you were even willing to mention it after all the fuss about microwaving a piece of wood in another thread ;)
Dodgy...I was going to chime in, in your defense, as I occasionally oven dry wood samples in the kitchen, but it was getting a little too hot over there. :D :D ;)
Wow, neat project! I'd love to see pictures as you progress.
One other thing to think about, if you haven't already ... a fold-down center drawer. I added this to the cherry partners' desk I made for my daughter, they put their laptops in there, then just pull the drawer out and fold it down when they want to use them. Very handy, and very common in new desks these days.
I can't wait to see the finished project. I bet that desk will take 4 strong men to move into place. The ammonia makes me think of when I was in high school and in the drafting class we had a gallon jug of ammonia for the blueprint machine. A janitor opened it up and took a sniff one day to see what it was only to wind up in a ambulance on the way to the hospital.
That will certainly clear your sinuses. ;D
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 19, 2014, 03:17:05 PM
Scott, please pass along your design, that would be great. Corbels might be a nice touch, I have seen them on a lot of old A&C furniture. I'm sure I will be doing something to give this desk a personal touch, but I haven't decided what just yet. On my bed, it was the heart and the tulip piercings on the headboard and footboard. I'm still very happy with that bed.
Here you go. The first photo is of an original Mission style sideboard from the early 1900's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/IMG_3548.JPG)
Here is the same design scaled up on a coat and glove rack that I built for my wife:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/IMG_3554.JPG)
This is a leftover corbel from the coat rack shown against graph paper. The scale on the graph paper is 1/4".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/IMG_3544.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/IMG_3547.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/IMG_3545.JPG)
Quote from: 21incher on February 20, 2014, 08:01:49 AM
I can't wait to see the finished project. I bet that desk will take 4 strong men to move into place. The ammonia makes me think of when I was in high school and in the drafting class we had a gallon jug of ammonia for the blueprint machine. A janitor opened it up and took a sniff one day to see what it was only to wind up in a ambulance on the way to the hospital.
Wow, he must have been a bright one. In my experience, you knew what was in the jug as soon as you opened the door to the drafting room :D
Scott, thanks for the pictures. I really like the drawer pulls on that old sideboard. I'm not as crazy about the corbels, but I'm wondering if I might be crazy enough to try some through-tenons. I also think that the detail of the leg going through the top is really neat, although it's not a feature I will be able to use, since the desk must break down for transport and to fit through the door to its final location.
L'il bit of progress from last week:
I usually start with the top. It takes the most wood and requires the nicest boards that I have.
The material at my disposal is 8/4 QSWO. The top will only be 1.25" thick, so rather than planing off ¾" of wood, I decided to resaw ½" board off of one face. I can use these for panels later on. I start by jointing one face. It's a bit tricky with 6' boards on a 5' bench. Really wish I had a 7' or 8' bench right now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Dads_Desk_003.JPG)
Then I run the flattened face against my table saw fence, on both sides, leaving just some wood in the middle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Dads_Desk_005.JPG)
Then it's more handwork to remove the holding wood. (You might remember this old ripsaw from here (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,65008.40.html))
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Dads_Desk_004.JPG)
The widest board for the top had 4.25" of wood left to rip, even after cutting as much as possible with the table saw. Took a solid 30 minutes of work with the ripsaw to get to this point.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Dads_Desk_007.JPG)
When I resawed the top boards, I realized that the inside was still a bit too wet, even after 2+ years of air-drying. White oak is like that. So I stickered the boards and will leave them until the end of the build for more drying to work with them further.
Next order of business was the legs. These also required 8/4 stock. I need 8, so I prepared 9. I need quartersawn figure on 3 sides. That's hard to find in the wild ( :) ) so the next-best alternative is to glue a veneer to one of the flatsawn sides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Incident_007.JPG)
I let the glue dry for a couple days and finished processing the legs last night. They turned out great. I am not worried about the legs being a little wetter than I would like. At only 1.75" square, they're not going to move enough to cause me any trouble.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Incident_025.JPG)
Well, that's it for now. I have blown through most of my 8/4 QSWO now, so I decided to pull out all of my lumber and mentally think through where I will get my parts before cutting any more lumber. I will make a few small design changes to match the stock I have on hand, but probably nothing noticeable. I have also decided to give the through-mortises a go. I have done them before, but this build will require a lot more than I have ever tried!
Very nice looking wood there. :)
Yes, I remember you getting your old saw into shape. That's some hard sledding just the same slicing into that oak. Where's the band saw? ;D ;)
I've not veneered before, other than some thin ash I sawed for table edging where I used oak plywood. It was a table for a digitizing tablet, that adjusted on one edge at the back, piano hinged in front. Also used the ash edging on an aerial photo cabinet. Was wondering what glue you was using for the veneer?
Going to be a nice piece I believe. Magicman can help move it, since he's your neighbor and sawyer for hire now. ;D
Quote from: SwampDonkey on February 24, 2014, 05:18:10 PMMagicman can help move it, since he's your neighbor and sawyer for hire now. ;D
But I just saws um and leaves um. ;D
Quote from: Magicman on February 24, 2014, 08:02:47 PM
But I just saws um and leaves um. ;D
That's just SO COLD. :)
SD- the band saw was out of commission with a busted belt. It's all better now. But it would have been a difficult task on the bandsaw anyway. I just used Tightbond III on the veneer. It's 1/8" thick, so not particularly fragile. I haven't done much veneer work either, but it was the logical choice for this piece. I think I got a good bond.
MM- no worries, the desk will disassemble for transport so you won't be asked to abandon your policy :)
Poston, I thought you southern boys were more warm hearted than that, eh? Need more grits for the constitution. ;D ;)
Yes, the bandsaw probably is out of the question anyway because of depth along that wide edge. Anything beyond 6" is probably not going to happen.
I broke my band blade yesterday as well, and made a trip to town. Luckily a local store had one. Most close by will not stock band blades. Just happened to be a 1/4" blade out of pure luck. :D It was a King blade, but I like Viking the best from Lee Valley. Needed the blade to finish cutting curves on a chair leg. ;D
My bandsaw will supposedly resaw up to 13", but in reality, 6" is pushing it in white oak. Maybe I could do 13" in basswood? Plus, the mechanics of guiding a 9"-wide, 6' long, 40-lb stick of wood through the blade smoothly enough to avoid bowing the blade in the cut are...tricky. Been down that road before. The handsaw is a safer bet and a better workout.
I hear ya on getting bandsaw blades locally. My saw takes an odd size (111") that no one stocks. So I always have spares on hand. Not belts, though!
That is a nice design and I like what you have done so far.
Your band saw is a bit bigger than mine. Mine's 14" throat, but you can only cut something that is no thicker than 6". But yes, for the same reasons you make about handling the wood, they would drive me in another direction also. And yes it's a workout I'm sure. I don't know if my shoulder could take it these days. Get'n old ain't fun. ;D
I'll be following along as usual. :)
I don't see much in the way of knots, check or warp. Do you ever get junky lumber? ;D
He's fussy like me. Clear wood, less unsightly surprises. ;D
We call it character. That's worth more. ;D
Ask Poston. ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) :snowball:
When you work with hand tools as much as I do, you call it defect. I likes my clear wood, and so do my hand planes ;)
I love figure- ray fleck, curly, quilted, even crotch figure. But knots and checks aren't welcome in my shop. Well, they are welcome, but they eventually make it to the scrap bin :D
Or the stove, for mis-behaving. And a few words about the devil, under my breath. :D
I don't have a stove, but I do have a big box for cut-offs to use for grilling. All of my oak, hickory, ash, maple, cherry, pear, beech, sassafras, etc. odds and ends get cut into briquet-sized pieces and send to the grilling bin. The grill is my favorite place to use knotty, cracked wood ;D
Cook'n or heat'n, either way never wasted. ;D I had to have the door open in the shop today, 110 F is too hot for this northern boy. I mean when the sweat starts to poor off the peak of your ball cap, time for air conditioning. :D
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 25, 2014, 02:40:41 PMBut knots.........
If the Knothole Sawmill could saw knotty lumber how many knots could the Knothole Sawmill saw ???
Quote from: Magicman on February 25, 2014, 09:38:02 PM
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 25, 2014, 02:40:41 PMBut knots.........
If the Knothole Sawmill could saw knotty lumber how many knots could the Knothole Sawmill saw ???
I no (k)not. :)
I worked for a few hours on Tuesday night. Mostly lumber selection and processing. I always take a disproportionate amount of time selecting which stock will become which pieces. I have two goals: to minimize waste, and to maximize the aesthetic effect of each piece. This is made more difficult in this piece, because I will end up using lumber from 3 different trees, and I want use the subtle differences in color and growth rate to its best advantage.
I now have the stock selected and processed for the top, the legs, and all of the frame members. All that remains is the selection for the panels and the drawer fronts. I will saved those until the joinery is completed.
I did finally get down to business and lay out the joinery for one of the legs, to see how difficult the through-mortises would be to accomplish. I have no mortiser, so I wasted most of the joints with the drill press and it was all handwork from there - chisels and a wide rasp. It took more time than I would like. I will have to refine my process to get more efficient, because I have 8 of these to do! It will be a challenge to keep the parts straight, because no two are the same.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Needham_006.JPG)
How about a router with a home-made jig to keep things straight and true?
Also, with complicated assemblies I like to get some cardboard and draw things to scale. Also, pieces get a number on an area that won't get sanded, like on the tenon and the cheek of the mortise once you have the fit. And before glue up, sometimes you have to think ahead of the steps involved. Often times it only fits together in a certain order.
Even with a mortise attachment or machine you still have to chisel and scrape some, at the base of the mortise. So just because one has the machines, it does not eliminate the 'fine tuning'. And make the mortise first and clean it up, and then make the tenon fit, don't go back and forth. Easier to sand and rasp the tenon for a good fit. Tenon shoulders are always a challenge even when machined and there is always a little potential to be off a hair in that 360 degree turn somewhere.
Looks like a nice project. You didn't mention, is this desk for personal use or will it be at the camp?
Thanks Sawyer, but I plan to keep a router as far away from this desk as possible, except for a few small procedures that I feel confident with. I have made more firewood and repair work for myself with the screaming devil tools than I care to think about :D
SD- you are right about the tenon shoulders. That is an important area that is easy to mess up. I usually do that by hand, since it is so critical, but with so many joints I will likely find a machine method. I dislike cutting shoulders on the table saw, because I can't watch the cut as I am making it. But it's probably what I will do.
I didn't make a full-scale mock-up, but I did make some detailed scaled drawings on graphing paper last night that I think will keep me on track. I plan to get all the joint marked out and thoroughly inspected on all the legs before I proceed with any joinery. The one that I started on was a spare, hopefully it won't be needed.
ljohnsaw- in the first post, I mentioned that the desk is for my dad. He will use it in his home office.
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 27, 2014, 12:36:57 PM
<<snip>>
ljohnsaw- in the first post, I mentioned that the desk is for my dad. He will use it in his home office.
I read more into it - I was
thinking (actually assuming and you know what that does... ::)) that your dad was still working there and it would be an office desk at the camp.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 27, 2014, 03:56:45 PM
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 27, 2014, 12:36:57 PM
<<snip>>
ljohnsaw- in the first post, I mentioned that the desk is for my dad. He will use it in his home office.
I read more into it - I was thinking (actually assuming and you know what that does... ::)) that your dad was still working there and it would be an office desk at the camp.
Gotcha- Dad never actually had an office
at the camp, but he worked for the same organization and spent a lot of time there. He is partially retired now. Sorry for the confusion.
I've been delinquent about keeping up with the forum lately. I just noticed this thread about my future desk. It's exciting to see construction getting under way! Looks like it's going to be a little more complicated than we first anticipated. I'm paying Dodgy to build the desk for me so at least he will be somewhat compensated for his efforts. Better yet, I expect this to become a family heirloom that he will inherit one day! :) I'm looking forward to watching progress.
Pay him to build me one :D :D :D.
:D You need a bigger house. :)
I'm working on downsizing the operation here, so I don't have to ever worry about being gifted a beautiful hand crafted oak desk. ;) I got a bunch of antique furniture and dishes to get rid of now.
Bill, I have a big trailer and a pick-up to pul it, I can alleviate your issue of antique furniture and dishes real quick its only a short drive out there..... ;D :D just saying!!
Don't forget the cash $$ ;D
You'll have to send me some pics Bill.... :)
Well I'm moving to the other house and I'll be setting up high speed internet to post things on a site of some kind. I'll have some pics later. This is later on this spring. Too cold now to do anything. :D
I even have an old canvas back canoe, cedar ribs, 22 footer. I have to do something with. Has a square stern and pulley on the far end for anchor, it's a river canoe for salmon fishing. It's not pristine condition, because it's been used for what it was made for. It's NB made by the Millers in Nictau.
Quote from: Dodgy Loner on February 27, 2014, 12:36:57 PM
... screaming devil tools ...
Great description!! :D :D :D
They have ruined many woodworkers as well as their projects. :-\
Well, I ended up breaking my word and using the screaming devil after all. After thinking about how to best accomplish the mortising, it occurred to me that I could use the same bit that I was planning to use for the grooves to get my through-mortises started - a 1/4" wing cutter. It's at the router table, so there is much more bearing surface than when using the router by hand. PLUS, unlike a straight bit, where the cutting action is occurring perpendicular to the direction of the cut, this wing bit cuts parallel to the direction of the cut. What this means is that the chips are cleared far better than with a straight bit and there is no tendency for the bit to wander in the cut.
First, I carefully marked out the grooves and mortises on all of my legs. Through-mortises require much care to lay out properly. I double-checked my diagrams and even discovered some overlooked errors. Hopefully they are all right now, but I won't find out for sure until I start to tenon my rails.
The work started at the router table:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/bloop_008.JPG)
Then the through-mortises were bored all the way through at the drill press and cleaned up at the bench with a few chisels.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/bloop_007.JPG)
They turned out nice, now I just have to cross my fingers that they're all in the right location! :D
Let's hope they are all perfect. If not, you can borrow my mortise mover. ;D :snowball:
Looking super nice so far. ;D
Do you keep that next to the board stretcher? :D
Si. ;D
:D Looks nice from 1200 miles away. :)
Dodgy Loner,
Those mortices are looking very well made. Using the tools you have on your bench, you can't hardly miss one. I have been thinking of getting one of those cutter wheel marking gauges for a while. Do you like it better than a pin type gauge? The desk is looking great. Keep up the good work and pictures. Andy
Andy, the wheel-type gauges are great. I have two pin gauges, and they both see use when I need to save more than one setting, but the wheel gauge is always the first one to get set. I find it easier to scribe a line accurately with it. That said, the one I have (Veritas (http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936) with micro-adjust from Lee Valley) has some shortcomings. Namely, if you are not careful, the setting can slip which can cause nightmares. If I were to get a new one, it would be the Tite-Mark (http://play-glen-drake.com/v-web/ecommerce/os/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=37&osCsid=cc7c08acae4ac9e47e6e13b5db032e3f) gauge from Glen-Drake. At $89, it ain't cheap, but the marking gauge is such a critical and often-used tool for handwork that I think it would be worth it. I have never heard anything but rave reviews from people who have the Tite-Mark
Last night I was interrupted from my desk-building to tend to my honey-do list: Stickering 460 square feet of red oak flooring in a corner of the bedroom. I will have to start laying in about 2 weeks. My next project after I'm done with the desk and the floor will probably not involve any oak :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/bloop_009.JPG)
I have the Sheffield Deluxe Rosewood (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Page.aspx?p=32621&cat=1,42936,42948) marking gauge. ;D
I have the Titemark and it is a very well thought out tool. I have been eyeing the marking gauge from Veritas that has the two cutter shafts so you can lay out both sides of the mortise at the same time. It might come in handy for some of my model making adventures.
A friend of mine took pity on my task of through-mortising 8 white oak legs and sent me a package that arrived on Monday: two 1/4" mortising chisels, a Lie-Nielsen socket mortiser (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/mortise-chisels/) and a Ray Iles "pigsticker" (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TBMC/item/MS-MORT.XX). He just asked me to return them when they were done. Cold weather kept me out of the shop for the first part of the week, but I was able to make a little progress last night.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_003.JPG)
I had already done half the mortises with a Forstner bit and a paring chisel to clean up the waste. So I had four more to go, and the mortise chisels were just the ticket. I was able to chop the mortises by hand in about the same amount of time that it took to do the paring work after boring out most of the waste with a Forstner. So it ended up being quite a bit more efficient to do the chopping by hand. Good chisels made the task easy, and I was hard-pressed to choose a favorite. I liked the way the Ray Iles chisel felt in the hand - the large handle was easy to grasp, and the elliptical shape made it simple to orient the blade properly - but I must say that the Lie-Nielsen seemed to do a better job of cleaning out the waste, probably because the sides are ground to sharp corners. They seem to scrape the sides clean as you lever out the waste, making a neat mortise. They are both very good chisels, and I highly recommend either.
Here is a mortise done with the Forstner + paring:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_005.JPG)
And here is one done with just the mortise chisel:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_004.JPG)
They are both very clean. Once the mortises were done, it was time to move on to the tenons. About 6 or 7 years ago, I bought the Grizzly Tenoning Jig (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Tenoning-Jig/H7583) for cutting tenons on a table saw. And for 6 or 7 years, it sat unused. With this many tenons, though, it seemed like the way to go. So I pulled it out and found it very easy to set up and use. I cut the tenons for one of the rails, aiming for an off-the-saw fit. I trimmed the tenons to width with a backsaw, and gave it a test fit:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_006.JPG)
It slid home sweetly, but was just a tad too loose. But the shoulders were nice and tight:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_007.JPG)
I adjusted the jig a hair for the second rail, and got a piston-fit tenon:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/More_008.JPG)
And that is where my evening ended. Only about 70 more tenons to go! :-X. Fortunately, most of them are not through-tenons :D
Even if they aren't through tenons, they will take about as long by the time they are cleaned out and scraped. ;D
Nice job on the through tenons. Good luck with the rest. ;D
No doubt, blind tenons take about as much work as through-tenons, since they are so hard to clean out. However, blind tenons are a bit more forgiving of errors, so long as the joint is tight. They don't have to be pretty, just strong :)
Yes, that'll relieve a little stress. ;D
Nice job on the through mortise. That's why I love my designated mortising machine. It's actually my brothers but I've had it 3 years now. The tenoning jig is the safest & fastest way to make tenons. Can't wait to see the finished desk.
Dodgy Loner,
Outstanding job on the mortices! Seems counterproductive to whack a fine piece of wood with a razor sharp tool, but that's how it's done. The Lie Nielson chisels are about the finest I've whacked. That Ray Iles looks to be a fine one also. Don't know if I could convince Nancy that I really need a set of them ! Do you find that when you clamp a rail in your tennon jig , it tends to pull it slightly out of line with the blade? I had that trouble with my Delta, until I made my homemade one. When I cut one by hand, I can feel the cut, and know it is aligned with the blade. Before the jigs, I used to cut with a back saw. No fun at all! Keep up the fine work, and the pictures! I love seeing other peoples projects. Makes me ready for another one myself. Andy
I've used Sorbeys to whack out mortises, they are fine chisels to. You can use some leverage on that sucker and know it won't break off like Chinese junk. I also have a Sorbeys mortise bottom scraper. Any good mortise chisel will do the job. ;D
It is a satisfying feeling with a tenon that you have cut fits perfectly in a mortise. I have used my Delta tenoning jig a bunch. Nice looking work.
Quote from: Andy White on March 06, 2014, 05:15:47 PM
Do you find that when you clamp a rail in your tennon jig , it tends to pull it slightly out of line with the blade? I had that trouble with my Delta, until I made my homemade one. When I cut one by hand, I can feel the cut, and know it is aligned with the blade. Before the jigs, I used to cut with a back saw. No fun at all!
Andy, I found the factory clamp that came with the tenoning jig to be overly heavy, bulky and, basically, stupid. So I took it off and just clamped the boards in place with a couple of spring clamps. Worked great. I have sawed quite a few tenons with a backsaw, and I wouldn't say that it was no fun at all (I love hand tools!) but they definitely didn't turn out as nice as these. I will probably not let this jig collect so much dust in the future.
Quote from: SwampDonkey on March 06, 2014, 06:48:59 PM
I've used Sorbeys to whack out mortises, they are fine chisels to. You can use some leverage on that sucker and know it won't break off like Chinese junk. I also have a Sorbeys mortise bottom scraper. Any good mortise chisel will do the job. ;D
That's good to know. I have had a bad experience with Sorby's and don't expect that I will every buy their tools again. The first chisels I ever bought were 1/4" and 1/2" Sorby paring chisels, and the steel was so soft, the edge would crumble immediately upon use. It was really frustrating, but I thought that I was the problem, I didn't have enough experience to know that the chisels were bad. My next chisels were the Irwin blue chips that cost 1/4 as much, and they had steel that was 4 times as good. Other people have reported great things about Sorbys, but one bad experience for me has caused me to stay away. I know other people who have had the same problem as me, so it seems that their quality is at best, inconsistent.
Quote from: WDH on March 06, 2014, 09:23:36 PM
It is a satisfying feeling with a tenon that you have cut fits perfectly in a mortise. I have used my Delta tenoning jig a bunch. Nice looking work.
Yes, it really is a great feeling. I stayed up later than I should have, just so I could get a couple of tenons made before calling it quits. It was worth it! :)
My clean out chisel is actually a Henry Taylor I guess. I have not experienced the Sorbey chisel ever chipping out. I have just the 1/2" chisel. They are also registered chisels for serious work.
The Sorby's that I had never chipped - the edges just literally would fold over like tin foil. It didn't matter if I honed at 25° (which is what I prefer for paring chisels) or 30° (my standard honing angle for bench chisels). The edges simply failed the moment you put metal to wood. Like I said, I know others who love their Sorby's, so I don't guess it's a widespread problem, but it certainly soured my opinion.
Mine don't do that, they are razor sharp. I just hope someone isn't counterfitting like some unnamed country is known for. Lee Valley is where I buy mine and they have standards. If they ever did what you have experienced you can bet Lee Valley would make it right.
Got mine from Lee Valley too :-\
They have great customer service, and if I had noticed the defective steel sooner, I wouldn't have hesitated to send them back. But when I bought them, I was too green to know that the chisels were the problem and not me. To be honest, back then I was probably a bad enough sharpener that it didn't make a difference :D. Not anymore, though.
That's unfortunate.
I like my Veritas honing jig for sharpening any chisels as well, have always had good luck with it. :)
That's what I use :)
I have reached the "sweet spot" of a woodworking project, when the bulk of the stock prep is behind, the joinery is in progress, and things are finally starting to come together. I am very glad that the desk finally looks like more than a stack of lumber. It was a lot of work to get to this point. The next few weeks should be fun, then it will be time to finish, and the fun will be over :D.This weekend's progress:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Assembly.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Tenons.JPG)
That's just really impressive! Beautiful wood, outstanding craftsmanship.
Nice work, can't wait to see the finished product.
Dodgy Loner,
To use an old saying( How Sweet It Is! ) Those frames are looking really great! This is the point when you can tell how well the project will turn out. I'll bet Red Clay Hound is beside himself with anticipation! A great job, and am looking forward to the next installment. Andy
Quote from: Andy White on March 10, 2014, 01:02:49 PM
I'll bet Red Clay Hound is beside himself with anticipation!
You are indeed correct Mr. White! Looks like I will be planning a trip to Mississippi when this project is complete. (Like I need an excuse to go see my grand babies!) :) :) :)
Don't bring Danny with you. He will be trying to make a raid. :o :D
smiley_curtain_peek
I will show up when you least expect it.......
Dodgy,
Not sure which is better, the joinery or the wood :).
Quote from: WDH on March 10, 2014, 11:35:34 PM
smiley_curtain_peek
I will show up when you least expect it.......
Dodgy,
Not sure which is better, the joinery or the wood :).
The wood is natural the joinery is simply amazing. :o Excellent work :)
I had to take a break from the desk last week to work on some home improvement stuff. I installed 400 sq.ft. of prefinished red oak in our living room and dining room. I don't really mind home improvement projects, but it's not as fun as "real" woodworking. Fortunately, I was lacking the mallet that I needed to use with my flooring nailer, so I was able to squeeze some woodworking out of the home improvement project. You can buy mallets with rubber faces to use with these nailers, but I decided that a traditional beech joiner's mallet with leather on one face would be far more useful, so that's what I made.
The handle is wider at the top than at the bottom, so it "dovetails" tightly when swinging it, but comes out with a tap on the bottom of the handle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_003.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_004.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_006.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_008.JPG)
At 30 oz, it dwarfs a 16 oz framing hammer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_009.JPG)
And after 3 evenings and one Saturday, the flooring is installed. I just have to do the shoe molding now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/floor_021.JPG)
Okay, sorry for that aside. Hopefully we will be back to our regularly scheduled programming this week! :)
Nice hammer and nice flooring job to. ;D
Oakey dokey. ;D
The flooring looks great. The mallet looks well made and just right for the job.
Nice picture taking too.
Diversions are OK. :) Nice mallet and flooring job. smiley_thumbsup
Quote from: thecfarm on March 17, 2014, 09:22:27 PM
Nice picture taking too.
Thanks thecfarm. They're just some iPhone pics. It's amazing that my phone can take better pictures than a $200 camera could just a few years ago.
And thanks for the kind comments on the floor. It replaces some very ugly stained carpet in the living room and some very worn out T&G heart pine in the dining room. I hated to cover up the heart pine, but it is about 100 years old and has been sanded so many times that the tongues were nearly exposed (and it squeaked like CRAZY when you walked on it). It served well for a century, and I hope the red oak will last at least that long.
The wife is very pleased with the new floor, so I am a happy man :). I spent yesterday evening in the shop making my shoe molding. I figured it was a one hour job with the router and table saw. Well, it turns out that I didn't have the router bit that I thought I had, so I ended up having to shape all the molding by hand with a curved spokeshave. It took 3 hours instead of 1, but it was a more pleasant 3 hours without the router screaming at me, so I can't complain. But it is done, and if I can get my wife to paint it for me, then I will be back to the desk next time I'm in the shop 8)
Earplugs make the screaming more tolerable too. ;D
On the picture,what I really meant on what you had in the picture. The light was on,then the door was open and both added a spot of light to the floor. Add those elements added to the mighty fine looking floor.
Dodgy, have you seen this morticing video from Paul Sellers? Interesting to see the bevel edge chisel performing so well compared to the mortise chisel.
http://youtu.be/q_NXq7_TILA
It's springtime in the South, which means it's time for plowing...grooves, that is. With a plow plane.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_077.JPG)
The desk build had pretty much been on hold until the last 5 days. My wife went back to South Carolina to visit her parents, taking the kiddos along. So I have pretty much spent every waking moment since last Friday either at work or in the shop. Much progress has been made!
Both carcases are assembled.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_074.JPG)
More than 70 mortise and tenon joints have been pegged with walnut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_075.JPG)
The drawer stock has been prepped. I am using 3/8" quartersawn heart pine for the sides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_073.JPG)
Plowing grooves is fun when your stock is this good!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_071.JPG)
So let the dovetailing commence.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_080.JPG)
Yesterday evening I was able to complete 5 drawers.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15533/Recent_081.JPG)
My dovetailing was a little rusty. Hard to believe it's been over a year since I've cut any. But by the 5th drawer, they were looking pretty good :)
I'm trying to think of something to say but I got nothin. You're an artist, DL. I'm in awe of those plow shavings ribbons. Incredible work!
I have been saying I am going to try dovetailing for years now. Still havent...
Looking great DL ;)
Are You gluing the M&T as well as pegs?
Jim
John- thank you. This has been an interesting build. If I had built one of these carcases with drawers and a top, it would have been the most complicated project I had ever attempted. But I had to build two of them, mirror images, and now I have to make a panel that connects them and can be disassembled, AND a drawer in the middle that will allow disassembly, AND then connect it all with a 34" wide top. It has been mind-boggling at times and so easy to get parts mixed up and turned backwards. So far I have only made one irreversible mistake, and I ain't saying where :D
James, yes, the tenons are glued as well as pegged. Belt and suspenders. I like to think I am building it to last 500 years. :)
DL,
I have and old and very heavy school teacher type desk. I take it apart to move it (done it about 5 times in 25 years). It is all walnut - quite pretty after I stripped the grey paint the Navy put on it :D
If you are looking for ideas on how to attach the parts...
The top is about 1.5" thick ply with veneer. The modesty panel is rabbited to the carcases and the top is held on to the drawer carcases with plates that sort of look like figure 8's. A Forestner bit was used to drill holes in the bottom of the desktop for clearance. They are screwed into the top of the carcases in one hole and then into the desktop from below through the other hole. Works really well. The center drawer slides are permanently attached to the side of the carcases. The bottom stile for the drawer is mortised and then sort of toenail screwed into the carcases. With enough people, you can lift the desk by the top - held on plenty strong.
The only thing I would change is to not use wood screws - I would opt for those brass inserts and machine screws.
I just keep watching and smiling DL. Your craftsmanship is "crafty". ;D
Yes, simply amazing wood and work into it. :)
Must be like some fellas that get lots done when the wife and kids go visit grandma. ;)
lj- the method you have described is almost exactly what I have envisioned. Thanks for the summary! :)
Good. Real simple and really strong. The plates mine has are stamped metal, I suppose for strength, but I think just a piece of 3/16" band iron would work quite well. Maybe get 21incher to plasma cut you some 8) Not sure where you could find the real thing - REAL hardware stores are not too common anymore!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 11, 2014, 03:15:58 AM
DL,
The only thing I would change is to not use wood screws - I would opt for those brass inserts and machine screws.
The one variance on that which you might consider is epoxy. I use West System Epoxy and drill a larger hole (3x the fastener diameter) and fill with epoxy, let it cure, then drill and tap for a machine screw. It will be even stronger than the brass insert.
John
I will just be using wood screws. I expect the desk to be assembled in place and to stay there for many years. If anything needs revision in the future, I will take care of it then.
Your talent is great. Thanks for sharing a really nice build. bg
DL, there are "carpenters" (like me), and then there are craftsmen. You definitely fit in the latter category. Really really nice work.
A friend of mine is also in the latter category -- builds Maloof-style furniture, primarily rocking chairs. He's even perfected the Maloof joint. Wish I had some pictures ... He also recently finished a solid walnut casket for his father. Just the most beautiful piece I've ever seen. As you can imagine, he was hesitant to show it to me ... kind of morose in a way, even though his father is now 93 .... I agree with others he has talked to, what a great and beautiful gift to honor his dad.
Thanks for sharing your project with us!