I've just milled some poplar boards for a client, 5/4 x 26"+ width x 10'. Several of the boards had checking and/or a felling split. Otherwise they are nearly perfect (Thank You!, Thank You Very Much ;D). The cracks were all very clean, and didn't open up very much. I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile trying to glue them closed before drying the wood? Maybe something like Gorilla Glue?
Just let em do their own thing, gluing a wet board isnt going to work. You can try to drill a small hole at the end of a crack but its effect is minimal. An example, I qtr sawed some red elm, one started to crack along a growth ring, and it continued up a foot or so as it started to dry over several months.
These cracks are due to tension stress in the tree. So, if you clamp and glue them, the stress is still there and will cause warp when working with the wood. Also, the crack can redevelop, especially during drying. This is typical of poplar.
Sadly, there is no instant pudding.
Thanks guys. I figured it was a long shot. Just hate to see such beautiful wide planks having to be cut up.
In the old days, the sawmill had a busting saw that would rip these pieces down the middle before stacking and drying.
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on February 28, 2014, 05:52:37 PM
I've just milled some poplar boards for a client, 5/4 x 26"+ width x 10'. Several of the boards had checking and/or a felling split. Otherwise they are nearly perfect (Thank You!, Thank You Very Much ;D). The cracks were all very clean, and didn't open up very much. I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile trying to glue them closed before drying the wood? Maybe something like Gorilla Glue?
Try coating the ends with linseed oil.You may have to cut the board a couple inches longer and trim when dry.It may be best to leave the boards longer, then cut length when dry.
We used a construction adhesive (PL premium) on some 30 inch wide sugar maple slabs and the slabs dried perfectly. They were 3 inch thick though, this might not work on a 5/4 board.