Important information for B-20 owners. I am testing out a new product for B-20s (it's nice to live so close to TK headquarters). As mills age certain parts must be replaced and guide rollers are a critical component of the milling system. Although the B-20 has been out of production for almost 5 years, TK decided to design an improved guide roller for the B-20s.
Previous guide rollers had sealed bearings and you would have to drill a hole in them to try to extend the life of the bearings. These new guide rollers have a grease fitting to make it easier to lubricate the bearings. Instead of using a bolt as an axle, it is a machined axle with a grease fitting threaded into the end of the axle. There is a bore through the axle which places the grease between the dual, heavy duty bearings. They are a direct replacement for the existing guide rollers. I'll be installing them this weekend, weather permitting, but I thought you would like to see what they looked like.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19572/P3062662.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19572/P3062664.JPG)
This set is part of the design run, according to Matt they should be in stock within a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how they work but they appear to be a significant design improvement. smiley_thumbsup
Thanks Tom I will be switching to these as soon as available.
I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say this or not. But here it is anyway.
Wow those look just like the guides on my WM LT-25 that I just rebuilt. If I didn't see the posting say TK, I would have assumed they were for a WM.
Has anyone with a B-20 seen the guides from a WM. Are they cross compatible?
Any WM guides I have seen have a solid bar on the back that get clamped by the adjusting bolts. No thread on the back like the TK.
Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 06, 2014, 12:09:06 PM
Any WM guides I have seen have a solid bar on the back that get clamped by the adjusting bolts. No thread on the back like the TK.
You're right. The threaded part though the guide, terminates in a piece of 1/2" square stock in the back. The two nuts behind the guide are on a separate piece of threaded rod.
Tom looking at the bearing the inside must not have a shield on them, They sure do look like the Cooks
rollers and i would like to have that type on our Norwood mill.
Sawwood
I betcha they would fit my Thomas. I just replaced one last summer.
its about time. back in 2000 i was telling tk to make some simple changes to that excact part. to no avail. :(
Quote from: AnthonyW on March 06, 2014, 11:59:10 AM
Has anyone with a B-20 seen the guides from a WM. Are they cross compatible? The rollers are bigger i think 3" dia. On the B-20. They can really be dialed in they have 4 way adjustments once you get them plumb they stay that way.
TK sent me some new guides for my 1600 a couple of months ago. They were excellent, and so far have stayed put and milled well. The old guides were a real pain in the erse. :D
I have cooks greasable 3" rollers on my b20. I am happy with them so far. I actually had them turned a month or so ago. They were starting to wear.
I may have to try these out. Did they mention a target price for them?
I would love to see TK make a retrofit upgrade for the drive side roller assembly on the b20. That bar hanging down just doesn't stay put with a good bump. Cutting ERC is a real pain with all the knobs sticking out. I am constantly having to watch out that my dust deflector doesn't hit and make an adjustment to the roller assembly. I just can't get it tight enough.
Brian
I have had to rough up the metal with a grinder and it has held pretty tight. Ladylake has a nice mod he welded a adjustable bolt on the side of the plate keeps it from moving upwards. There's a picture of it. Maybe Steve can post it again.
I forgot how to post, I think Tom has that pic also. That part I made to hold the guide down was my first modd. I really like that the TK guides are 3" rather than 2" which gives better wear and bearing life as they turn a lot slower. With drilling a little hole in the seal and greasing I get really good life out of those bearing when running water, running diesel in the winter they don't need near as much grease. These new greaseable are nice but my only complaint is that the mounting bolt isn't strong enough for the rough service my mill gets. I long ago converted my mill to 5/8 mounting bolts which stay straight. Steve
These are a 3" diameter roller and the threaded portion that mounts to the mill is 1/2" but the axle bore where the bearings ride is 3/4".
Steve's drive side roller modification...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19572/P9132423.JPG)
I find it curious that there isn't a "rib" at the outside edge of the roller. Are the new rollers wider to compensate for it?
Looks like the guide wheel is wider, maybe room for a wider bearing inside or being greasable maybe a spacer between the bearings so the grease can get through. Steve
Thank you for the mod pic. That is great. I have been trying to strip the threads out of the tension bolt since buying the mill. This may prevent me from having to tap that hole out!
I agree why is there no last rib. These are like "Adam's rollers" the last rib is missing.
Brian
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on March 07, 2014, 08:50:41 AM
I find it curious that there isn't a "rib" at the outside edge of the roller. Are the new rollers wider to compensate for it?
There using two single row bearings in place of one double row bearing. Grease comes up from the spindle between the two bearings.
When I first learned of the new style I thought cool. I'll just turn a new spindle on my lathe and put in two bearings. A quick measurement showed not enough space to fit two bearings into the old style roller. TK made the new roller longer.
I think the cost of the new style is a bit expensive, for a modification that should have been done 14 years ago, as red oaks lumber pointed out.
Lets not be too hard on TK as other mills come without greasable guide rollers and after more than 9000 hours I get real good life out of the old style. My only complaint was the 1/2" bolt which wasn't strong enough. Steve
So is this new guide roller the same as what TK 2000 are using I have not seen it where the front groove is removed probably to help save the set when the back of blade hits flange.
According to the saw shop where I buy my blade the front of the guide shouldn't even get into the gullet at all as that will cause blades to break. Steve
If you run 1/8" away from the flange you should be behind the gullet unless your blades are very worn.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19572/P3092667.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22539/rps20140315_172620_910.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22539/rps20140315_172737_679.jpg) Was able to get me a set of New Guide rollers ordered on Monday and installed Friday night. Cut a 1K bf and there breaking in just fine. Had to use a little more deflection. The idle side was spinning slower for awhile. They work great. Thanks TK!