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The Forestry Forum

General Forestry => Sawmills and Milling => Topic started by: Ga Mtn Man on March 09, 2014, 08:04:37 PM

Title: Wood-Mizer LT40 band-wheel install question
Post by: Ga Mtn Man on March 09, 2014, 08:04:37 PM
What is the correct procedure for re-installing the drive-side band-wheel on an LT40?  My concern is that as I tighten the bolts that pull the tapered bushing into the band-wheel bore, isn't the band-wheel being pulled away from the hub?

Title: Re: Tapered bushing bandwheel install question.
Post by: bandmiller2 on March 09, 2014, 08:25:10 PM
Yes it is, as you draw down a taperlock bushing they move the pulley close to the taperlock flange. What must be done is to move the taperlock and pulley assembly in farther to compensate. I can't tell you exactly how much because of shaft and taperlock tollerances . Something like 1/4",5/16 "should be about right. Frank C.
Title: Re: Tapered bushing bandwheel install question.
Post by: Chuck White on March 09, 2014, 08:44:42 PM
And I have no idea, but I'm interested in the read!  :P
Title: Re: Wood-Mizer LT40 bandwheel install question
Post by: barbender on March 10, 2014, 06:46:49 PM
Why did you have it off?
Title: Re: Wood-Mizer LT40 bandwheel install question
Post by: Brian_Rhoad on March 10, 2014, 07:07:07 PM
If it's a tapered bushing the bolts need to be torqued when you tighten them. There should be a space between the bushing flange and the pulley when the bolts are torqued to the correct amount.
Title: Re: Wood-Mizer LT40 bandwheel install question
Post by: StimW on March 10, 2014, 08:11:23 PM
I have had to take them back loose and re-position them for alignment.
Just make a note of how far off it is when tight and move it that far the next time.
Title: Re: Wood-Mizer LT40 bandwheel install question
Post by: Ga Mtn Man on March 11, 2014, 10:19:39 AM
I called WM IN yesterday morning and was turned over to the guy who "will for sure know the answer"...Otto.  He said to position the bushing so the bevel on the end of the shaft is exposed (about 1/32") and tighten each bolt ΒΌ turn at a time to 108 in/lbs.  If you don't have a torque wrench he said to tighten the bolts until they become hard to turn.  Of course my definition of "hard to turn" and someone like customsawyer's definition (he's broken more than one of the hardened chrome WM outrigger rods) are likely two completely different things.  I think I need to buy a torque wrench.  Otto also recommended replacing the three bolts with grade 8 so that if they get rusted in place there's a better chance of getting them out without breaking.

StimW's comment is good advice.  The most important thing here is that the drive-side band wheel be in line with the idle-side band wheel.  To confirm this, take a measurement from the front of the band wheel to the back of the blade housing and compare it to the idle-side and adjust as required.  FYI, the idle-side band wheel is in a fixed position on it's shaft.

Here's a link to the manufacturer's instructions for installing a tapered bushing.  The REVERSE Mounting procedure applies in this case.
http://img.directindustry.com/pdf/repository_di/9091/general-catalog-246439_18b.jpg

Why did I have it off?  Well, that's a topic for another thread.  :) 
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