I drove rebar into the ground a few feet and then poured concrete inside the blocks for the foundation pillars. Ya have to start somewhere I guess.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140520_123311.jpg)
Yip, on solid ground is a good place to start. bg
hackberry jake,
A really good start! What is all that shade doing around your kiln? Maybe you will be doing some trimming later on. That stack of lumber in the background will be the first in? Don't try to eat the whole elephant at one sitting. Keep up the good work, and stay safe. Andy
Shade isn't a bad deal on an electric kiln. It's hard to keep the temps low enough in the summer. This one will be a dehumidification kiln.
I knew that it was just a matter of time ;D.
Two 9x12s with full dimension 2x8s on top. I just put the 2x8s on top to "visualize". I will have to take them back off and cut them to length and put down plywood and moisture barrier.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140521_120225.jpg)
Got a little bit more done today before work. I still need to set one more 2x8. Next step will be cutting styrofoam boat docks down to size and stuffing it between the 2x8s.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140522_130314.jpg)
Is that treated plywood? Especially if it is not, you should put a sheet of plastic on the soil to inhibit soil moisture. Also, maybe dig a drainage system so water in a rain will not go under the kiln.
The moisture barrier in the floor or walls should always be on the warm side (inside) with the exterior open enough so any moisture within the wall can escape. Ok?
Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on May 22, 2014, 07:25:55 PM
Is that treated plywood? Especially if it is not, you should put a sheet of plastic on the soil to inhibit soil moisture. Also, maybe dig a drainage system so water in a rain will not go under the kiln.
The moisture barrier in the floor or walls should always be on the warm side (inside) with the exterior open enough so any moisture within the wall can escape. Ok?
it is treated plywood and the moisture barrier will go on right before the upper layer of treated plywood.
You going to cut the blocks down with your mill?
Quote from: LeeB on May 23, 2014, 03:03:03 AM
You going to cut the blocks down with your mill?
yes sir.
Seems like the best way to do it. How big are they?
The blocks vary in size. They average about 16" x 40" x 5'. I started putting the styrofoam between the joists today. I got about halfway done and decided to go and see my grandpa. Now its time to take a shower and head into my "real" job. :-\
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140523_114113.jpg)
I just picked up some more supplies for the build. At $28 a sheet for 1/2" treated plywood, the plywood will definately be the most expensive part of the chamber.
Some more progress pictures. It's kinda tough to stand up stud walls by yourself, but where theres a will there's a way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140525_112029%7E0.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140526_133022.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140526_135649.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140526_153534.jpg)
I have stood up roof framing by myself. When you are young, everything is possible.
You are putting that rigid dock insulation to very good use. It is nice to have a sawmill.
Jake...Great job so far. what do you think the R rating is for the floor and walls?
Expanded polystyrene has around 4 per inch and the walls are 8" thick. So around 30 or so. The studs themselves probably have an r-value around 1.25 per inch, so 10 or so, but the walls use 1x8s so the area of lower r-value is low.
What type of dehumidification system will you be using?
Ive also started my dehumid. kiln and will post pics soon.
Quote from: WDH on May 27, 2014, 07:04:25 AM
What type of dehumidification system will you be using?
I haven't got that far yet. Probably a nyle.
Ive elected to go with the high tech.,low cost plug in unit thats been setting in my loft for 5 years. ;D Im at the same stage as you starting on the wall construction.
I was just looking around lowes for some type of paneling for the exterior of the kiln. I found a cart of slightly damaged treated plywood (1/2") for half off. Score! 8)
That is nice.
A friend of mine came down this morning and we worked on the kiln some more. Got another wall up. I ran out of boat dock foam... now I'm gunna have to figure out how to insulate the back, top, and doors. Guess I will just go with how wdh did it with batt insulation and foam board.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140529_122107.jpg)
What size loads (BF) are you looking at putting in there? Which Nyle unit are you considering?
Looking good so far. Still need to start mine.
Will it load from the end?
Im thinkin itll hold around 800bf of 4/4. Yeah. I'm going to build a kiln cart. Load up the cart and then roll it into the kiln and shut the doors. Thats why its so tall. It comes out about ground level where I will be stacking lumber on the cart. I was considering the l-53 but I believe I will try a homebrew instead. It cant be that hard right?
You might check craigslist and look for used poultry house insulation. Its 1 1/2" thick 4' X 16' (or longer) sheets.
I have been leary about starting the back wall or roof because I didnt know what insulation I was going to be using. I needed to know what joist spacing to use. Well, I picked up 100 12x12x19 styrofoam blocks off of craigslist today. So the joist spacing will be 12". And ill need to cut a lot of 12" blocks to 8" thick.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140601_173949.jpg)
Looking good Jake, let us know what you do about the home brew dehumid unit, still thinkin bout buildin a kiln my self.
Made a little more progress...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140607_161716.jpg)
I see a whack of styrofoam blocks :).
The roof and back wall haven't been insulated yet. I just threw some tin on the top temporarily until all this rain lets up. And I still have doors to build...
Looking great Jake, man i wish i had the energy you do. ;D Im gonna find me a lamp and rub it and wish i was 40 again with a healthy heart. :D
Got the roof insulated today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140702_105317.jpg)
I see less moldy, mildewed pine in your future ;D.
Some more progress pictures.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140712_104504.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140712_104618.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140713_174148.jpg)
I remember Poston saying sweet gum makes pretty good siding, I cut the tree down, milled it, and screwed it up all within a few hrs. I have always wanted to try board and batten siding. This is the first time I have ever screwed up dripping boards too.
I can't tell, is the door insulated?
The door has 7" of styrofoam and two 1/2" plywood skins making it 8" thick. Heres a pic before I put the last skin on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20140710_105454.jpg)
I figured surely it did. I just couldn't tell from the picture.
Things are about to get exciting.
I'm sorry but I find solar kilns as exciting as snails. :D I pulled a load of fresh-off-the-saw 8/4 White Oak today. 7.5% in 10 days with no apparent degrade. That's exciting!
That was the main deciding factor for me to go the way of electric. I should be able to dry lumber fairly quickly and year around.
I stacked that 8/4 White Oak today. I only had a few pieces in with 4/4 to see how it would react. It was dry but had too many surface checks. I should have kept the humidity higher. But the 4/4 was picture perfect. White Oak will dry from fresh to 7% in less than 10 days. Too bad a solar kiln schedule can't do it without the vacuum. BTW the 5" thick stuff was around 12% and had a lot of cracks but it was boxed heart. This is really getting off topic but the wood is for a 1949 dump truck somebody is restoring.