Has anyone taking a belt driven one and made it to a PTO or hydraulic one or one with its own gas engine.
Have not done a conversion, but do have a commercially produced, engine-drive unit if you need something to study.
Must be bunches on you tube. The hard part is they go by so many names.
Quote from: North River Energy on July 05, 2014, 10:05:37 PM
Have not done a conversion, but do have a commercially produced, engine-drive unit if you need something to study.
Dose it have a flywheel on it? I would think it would need that to keep the blade speed up throughout the cut.
Quote from: thecfarm on July 05, 2014, 10:06:47 PM
Must be bunches on you tube. The hard part is they go by so many names.
True, but to me a sawrig. :D :D
32" blade, 16hp, direct v-belt drive (no clutch).
No flywheel other than the one on the motor. Works just fine, so long as the blade is sharp.
Depending on what you start with, you could do a conversion with a motor, a pair of three groove sheaves, and a set of belts.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30352/lafont%7E0.JPG)
There one on craigslist in mass for $700 with 7hp Briggs looks a little under powers to me
A friend of mine took a 3 point hitch one and put a 5 or 7.5 HP electric motor on it. Works well.
Well, It seems no one has done this before. :D :D :D
I'll put up some pics when I have it going.
I've done it. My FIL has one as well. Mine has a 10 HP no additional flywheel. My FIL's has a 7 HP with no additional flywheel. I think it would be helpful though because sometimes I need to make a few attempts to get through a piece of wood. I attached a picture of mine below; it's kinda dark but I can take more if you need specifics.
Beenthere posted this up a week or so ago: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,76068.0.html (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,76068.0.html) and frankly I think this is a better/safer way to go. I am going to try to build one of these soon.
My saw rig (these pictures only show one belt but I run it with 2):
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26694/003.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26694/004.JPG)
I ran the saw for a while this weekend. It performed flawlessly! I had a large pile of limbs from a huge white oak I had dropped this past spring. Anything under 5 1/2" or so in diameter went through easily, anything bigger took two shots at it.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on July 05, 2014, 09:32:57 PM
Has anyone taking a belt driven one and made it to a PTO or hydraulic one or one with its own gas engine.
A few years back I was given this particular rig. It originally was driven with a stationary engine and flat belt and was pegged to the ground with steel rods. To make it mobile, I fabbed a makeshift 3 pt "A" frame out of scrap iron and used a 1 to 1 gear box off of a John Deere haybine to transfer the power. I've got a number of fairly good pictures, but I'm having trouble figuring out the picture posting thing..... Would someone give me a hint of how to do it? I'm on a Chromebook if that helps....and all my pictures are uploaded to an off site photo hosting service.
Well, I've determined they must be placed in the Forestry Forum photo gallery, but I don't know how to get them there....from the off site photo-hosting service.
Welcome to the Forum!
This (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61788.0.html) (I hope) is the photo posting tutorial. There are several methods for photo uploading. I've never tried to move from a hosting site to the Forum, I've always moved them from the desktop.
Take them from the off site photo-hosting and put them on your computer, and then load them to your gallery from your computer.
If you can get them up on your monitor screen, then can copy them to something like "paint" and save them as a .jpg file for loading. ... seems to me... ;)
I'm working on it :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_001.jpg)
With the help of the tutorial in the "Behind the Forum" forum I think I got it now..... Here is the right angle gear box sitting on an angle iron frame, in line with the tractor pto. The ratio is 1:1 and is off an old John Deere haybine a neighbor scrapped.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_004.jpg)
The angle drive mount was made adjustable by the addition of (4) 3/4" allthread rods to make tracking and alignment of the flat-belt final drive a bit easier. The vertical mounts for the drives frame was slotted to allow adjustment.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_005.jpg)
The 3 pt "A" frame was made from scrap iron, 1/2" x 2" IIRC.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_006.jpg)
The flat belt runs a bit off center, but I've never welded on a perch for an outside carrier bearing for the output shaft of the right angle drive to rest upon. Consequently the belt tension exerts moderate pressure on the shaft and the result is it running out a bit. A winter fix thats not fixed yet....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_003.jpg)
Not having another 8" flat pully, the drive shaft was fitted with (2) identical 2-belt sheaves made for v-belts....The flat belt obviously runs on the OUTSIDE of the pully and surprisingly does not slip a bit. I pinched the blade in an 8" green sycamore and threw it off one time in the 5 or 6 years since the adaption was made. I had concern that there would be a lack of friction running on the outside like that, but the v-belt sheave was free ....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_008.jpg)
Here you can see the shaft where ultimately the outer carrier bearing will provide additional support to help out the single inner bearing. Once a bracket is welded in place the shaft excess will then be cut off. Until then....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37141/Kubota_and_cut_off_saw_009.jpg)
I like to use it on the little 16 hp Kubota because of the way it sips at fuel however, any category 1 three point tractor can be hooked to it. I keep a longer pto end for the larger tractors but for the most part it stays hooked up year 'round to this little guy.
The rig works wonderfully well without the addition of a flywheel. As a matter of fact, I don't have flywheels on any of the other rigs that were either front mounted to a tractor or rear mounted.
Running the tractor at pto speed there is no lack of power as long as the blade is kept touched up and set. It get a lot of use cutting anything green or dry less than 8" in diameter. Anything above that is a strain on the operator....(me).
l hope this makeshift saw rig gives you some ideas for whatever it is you want to do with yours, Peter.
Thanks for the pics.
I'd look into using V belts running on the flat pulley to require less pressure to keep from slipping, as the flat belt running on the rims of the drive pulley seems would not work as well. Just an observation, and may not be better.
Throwing the belt when the saw gets jammed is a good fail-safe as you don't appear to have a clutch or a dead-man switch. Or do you not have to walk around the rig to get to the tractor to power the saw down ??
But if it works as is and suits you, then that is all good.
Well beenthere.... there is no dead man switch and yes, to shut it down I do have to walk around the rig to the throttle and clutch. Having been working with and around saw rigs cutting pole wood and slab wood since being old enough to off bear, more than 50 years, I've never even given a thought of a way to shut it down in an emergency... Something to seriously consider though as accidents don't have a history of announcing themselves beforehand.
I was giving consideration to running (4) v-belts, but I didn't know what to expect with 4 individual belts straddling the crown in the flat pully on the sawblades shaft...just as I didn't know what to expect running the flat belting on the outside of the grooves... Plus I'd have to cough up cash for the belts whereas flat belting and lacing was sitting on the shelf. Yeah, I'm a cheapskate sometimes.... :-\
I hear ya... Maybe you can grind down or have machined down the outside rims of the belt pulley and simulate a crown in it for your flat belt. Just a wild thought.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10066/2992/2010-09-17-003-Buzz_saw.jpg)
This thread shows more pictures of my buzz saw.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,46598.msg672841.html#msg672841
Here is a discussion on how I sharpened the blade
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,13098.msg182656.html#msg18266
I think I have two flat belt pulleys have three buzz saws gonna fix up one of them if you need one let me know will go measure them
Can anyone tell me if there are any companies in the US or Canada that make new Buzz saws, I am having a hard time finding anything thats not from China or the UK.
Thanks
Can't tell you about newly manufactured ones Jason, if there are any. But if you check auction zip with saw rig, buzz saw or cut off saw as search words its pretty easy to find the original old ones. Most of the time, rurally anyway, they go pretty cheap.
Back to the topic of setting the teeth, though not technically the "correct" way to do it, I usea four pound two-face hammer as an anvil and set every other tooth with a small ball pein. Then flip and do the other side... That the way I learned as a kid and have been doing it for years. Seems to work ok as you are just cutting firewood or sharpening cedar fence posts.
An old buddy gave me a spring loaded manual saw-set that takes up to 36" diameter, but its not been put to use yet. The teeth are quite soft and easy to set with a light tap. After a few it just comes natural...
Jason:
http://newhavenpower.com/Woodsman250.html (http://newhavenpower.com/Woodsman250.html)
http://www.easternfarmmachinery.com/images/products/balfor.buzzsaw.pdf (http://www.easternfarmmachinery.com/images/products/balfor.buzzsaw.pdf)
I want to thank all of you for the Ideas :)
Quote from: jason6586 on August 07, 2014, 05:37:23 AM
Can anyone tell me if there are any companies in the US or Canada that make new Buzz saws, I am having a hard time finding anything thats not from China or the UK.
Thanks
I have a flyer I picked up quite a while back for a model 250 WOODSMAN SAW manufactured by: D. H. Welding at 459 Valley Road, Quarryville, PA 17566-9345. Tel. 717-806-0129.
If you contact them I'd like to know if they sell to the general public and also if they ship.
Gerald
I want to apologize to the original poster for invading his post and I also want to thank everyone who responded to my question.
Thanks Again
Jason
jason6586,welcome to the forum.
I don't see you did anything wrong. ;D Stick around and we'll put grits into a thread and watch where that goes. :D
Quarryville,right in Amish country. A very nice area.
The GRITS war will be back sooooon ;D
It's never far away from my things to do around my place. I have elite force that is armed and fortified to strike at a moment's notice. They are on call 24/7.
Quote from: tractorman44 on August 02, 2014, 09:34:05 PM
I was giving consideration to running (4) v-belts, but I didn't know what to expect with 4 individual belts straddling the crown in the flat pully on the sawblades shaft
I have a 3 groove pulley on my motor and I run 2 v-belts on the outer two grooves. This centers them on either side of the crown. If I had your set-up and wanted to try v-belts I'd just use the outer grooves.
Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on August 13, 2014, 04:10:27 PM
Quote from: tractorman44 on August 02, 2014, 09:34:05 PM
I was giving consideration to running (4) v-belts, but I didn't know what to expect with 4 individual belts straddling the crown in the flat pully on the sawblades shaft
I have a 3 groove pulley on my motor and I run 2 v-belts on the outer two grooves. This centers them on either side of the crown. If I had your set-up and wanted to try v-belts I'd just use the outer grooves.
So simple, and I didn't even think of it... doggone. It should work like a champ. Two will surely provide ample friction.
When you say 'motor', is it an electric motor or gas engine and how many ponies is it? My little Kubota is 16hp, but the rig works equally well on an 8n, 800 Ford or 1010 John Deere with the extended pto receiver.
My bad, "Engine". Mine is a 10 HP Tecumseh engine from a snowblower. It has a 110v electric start option on it to boot!
My father-in-law's saw is powered by a 7 HP Tecumseh.
I'am a little late to this fray but over the years I've owned about three cordwood, buzz saws or what ever you want to call them. They work well but are dangerous. They are most usefull for small long stuff cut for short stovewood. You have to lift what your going to cut and that's a back breaker. They came into being before chainsaws and were a god sent for the oldtimers. If you cut a lot of poles into stovewood they will be a big help. If your feeding big stuff just cut with the chainsaw and save your back. Most buzz saw blades I've seen are not sharpened properly and require a lot of pushing to get them to cut. They are a crosscut tooth and require no hook, the face of the tooth should be inline with the arbor hole. Tooth set is important to prevent binding. Frank C.
We have been using a Woodsman pto buzz saw for a few years now.As Bandmiller said it is excellent for kitchen stove wood.It demands respect or you will get hurt.I sent our blade to a saw shop in Henniker N.H.,He did a great job of sharpening,setting and joining the teeth.He has some amazing sharpening equipment that was imported from Germany.Fun to watch,he was @ the logging expo in Essex JCT. Vt.a few years back.
I'm getting all the parts together to make it work. I hope it will cut the hardwood slabs ok.
Peter, it will be just the thing for slab, oak or otherwise. Frank C.
I spent my first 29 years in Franklin.There were lots of cordwood saws in use in the 40s,50s and early 60s.Most were powered by Model A Ford engines.John Henry and his wife sawed wood for people with a Model A powered.Never knew anyone hurt by cordwood saws but know plenty of men cut by chain saws.My dad bought a small cordwood saw from Sears for 85.00.Came with a 3hp B&S engine.We sawed a lot of wood with that rig.I have the saw here in Maine, used it with a 2hp electric motor and a 6hp robin engine.I bought a Ford tractor and a PTO shaft driven cordwood saw.As for lifting big wood I never cut saw logs for firewood.I can machine sharpen the 30 inch blades.Not much demand for cordwood saw sharpening these days.Cordwood blades are center pitch and require setting to half the thickness of the saw plate.The teeth have a 5 degree face and top angle.I have some ash logs ready to mill but a 15 inch snow fall stopped that.
36 Coupe, was it Franklin Ma. or NH you grew up in.?? My most usefull buzz saw was mounted on the front of a JD "B" and driven from the clutch pulley. The most interesting buzz saw was free standing and powered by an old IH 6hp make and break engine. My dad was real nervous the first one I got, when he was young him and his friend went into the woods to help the kids uncle. They found him dead the arbor was just lagged down with wood screws it hung on a piece, broke free and climbed right up the front of him. Frank C.
What model 6 HP Frank? An M is throttle governed, so it must have been a more interesting model. Was it a Famous or a Titan?
Quote from: 47sawdustI sent our blade to a saw shop in Henniker N.H.,He did a great job of sharpening,setting and joining the teeth.He has some amazing sharpening equipment that was imported from Germany.Fun to watch,he was @ the logging expo in Essex JCT. Vt.a few years back.
Do you have a name and/or contact info? The gentleman that last filed my blades passed away a few years back.
Peter, your rig will do well with the narrower slabs, but you'll get tired of flipping the wider ones to finish the cut.
Good question Dave, I don't know what model it was. This was 35 years ago when I got the engine it had no carb. I had to modify a updraft carb to fit it. It worked well on the saw as the heavy flywheels would carry it through a big piece. It was a make and break because under load it would fire and coasting every few turns. Its long gone I forget where it went after that I had a total regression to steam. Frank C.
North River Energy and anyone else whose interested in professional blade sharpening-
Henniker Saw Shop
105 Newton Rd.
Henniker N.H. 03242
603-428-3751
Best to all,
Mick
[/quote]
Quote from: North River Energy on November 05, 2014, 07:28:20 AM
Quote from: 47sawdustI sent our blade to a saw shop in Henniker N.H.,He did a great job of sharpening,setting and joining the teeth.He has some amazing sharpening equipment that was imported from Germany.Fun to watch,he was @ the logging expo in Essex JCT. Vt.a few years back.
Do you have a name and/or contact info? The gentleman that last filed my blades passed away a few years back.
Peter, your rig will do well with the narrower slabs, but you'll get tired of flipping the wider ones to finish the cut.
So what your saying the bigger the blade the better. :D
^There you go...
That, or build it like a slab saw where the blade/arbor pass over the slab, rather than the slab moving into the middle of the blade more or less in line with the arbor.
Thanks 47.
I have to say this.If you have a flat belt pulley use a flat belt.If you have a V belt pulley use V belts......
The table on most saw rigs pivots from near the base on an arc to the center of the saw. If you have the table tilt up in the back or have a wedge in back it will allow a wider board or slab to be cut. I built a table on rollers that slid straight into the saw worked ok but I like the swinging table better. Bigger is better in a saw, too small and limits what you can cut but the larger saw needs more power. Frank C.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37689/20141008_143913.jpg)
Chinese 6.5 Hp engine, tungsten tip saw blade, the dad in law made a sliding clutch system to tighten up the two v-belts. Works better than I thought it would.