I have new rings and teeth for my blade and need some advice on the correct way to do this. I have heard stories of teeth slinging out and people getting hurt. I know a tooth can come out even if installed correctly.I have the tool for this. I just want to be as safe as possible. Thanks, Jimmy
Sorry I can't help but maybe shoot a pm to Steamsawyer, he's posted a video here of himself doing it.
Quote from: sandhills on September 15, 2014, 09:56:22 PM
Sorry I can't help but maybe shoot a pm to Steamsawyer, he's posted a video here of himself doing it.
I spent some time with Steamsawyer and his mill....pretty dog gone knowledgeable. smiley_thumbsup
I watched a video last week that I found on here of a guy hanging teeth. I cannot find it tonight. I will pm him. Thanks .
new rings and teeth gererally require blade be rehammered to set correct tension back in blade
I never had teeth sling out unless they weren't put in right or that the shanks were shot. Hitting metal can pull out your teeth. You should be able to get at least 1-2 million bf on a set of shanks. New shanks will mean you need to hammer the saw.
I always sprayed my saw with a penetrating oil before I changed bits. You just need to spray the shank areas. I would let that sit while I ate lunch. Then, its a matter of pulling the shank out, and getting rid of any accumulated fine dust under the shank or bit area. Then you insert your bit and make sure that the shank and bit line up. If they don't you'll get some heavy marking in your lumber. Finally, you go and seat in all of your shanks. If you don't seat them in, they might fly out. I did that by putting the saw wrench on the shank, then hitting it with a hammer. You'll hear a click, and it will be seated.
When you change teeth, work at one tooth at a time. Don't take all the shanks out, then put them back. That is the same as putting in new shanks and you saw might not run right.
Quote from: Tobaccoman on September 15, 2014, 10:01:37 PM
I watched a video last week that I found on here of a guy hanging teeth. I cannot find it tonight. I will pm him. Thanks .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=yr4pyjsCgnk
He will be a good help to you,
DGDrls
Jimmy, changing bits on a saw that's been in use is easy an old rusty saw that has lain fallow for many years is a little harder. As Ron said one tooth at a time, clean the pockets and the shanks dip the shank in oil or wipe some oil in the pocket with your finger. As you turn the shank and bit in their should be resistance in other words the shank should be tight in its pocket. If the shank feels much looser than its brothers you should use an oversized shank or peen the loose one to stretch it. If your saw has old rusted in bits and shanks first soak in weasel fiss then hit the shank like you are seating it. Some shanks are tight, don't diddle, put the wrench on them and snap them out. Sometimes I hit the handle with the heel of my hand to break them loose, better tight than loose. Frank C.
If the saw has set for a long time, It would be a good time to pick up a value pack of Blue Creeper. I'm not posting this as a shameless sponsor plug. I'm posting it because it will make things a whole lot easier for you. Plus you will smell wintergreen fresh when you are done. ;)
I also want to add what others already did. The saw will need to be hammered for your setup once you put in the new teeth and shanks. As with Ron, the only time I ever had anything fly out of the saw was when I hit something buried in the log.
Good info guys. I did get them all changed tonight and they came out fairly easy after watching the video. I only replaced 7 rings but replaced all the teeth. I did notice that 3 of the rings had a very small gap in the heel or gullet area. Maybe 1/16 or less. Is this ok and if not how do I fix this ? I might get my grandpa to come look at it as he was a sawyer for many years but he is 89 and I know he will want to run it and I don't want him getting hurt on it.
Do you mean you see daylight underneath the shank, between it and the saw plate? If that is what you mean, DON'T START THAT SAW. That would sound like the wrong shanks for the saw.
Yes you can see daylight. How can I determine the correct shanks ? The ones I installed were b-9 .
woa Jeff right you have same potencial as a hand gernide
Did you seat the shanks?
Yes shanks are seated. I will remove them today and inspect more.
I would get grandpa over to look at them. Is it the new shanks that you can see daylight under.?? Sometimes you can see small gaps where the bit and shank lock or at the heel of the shank due to wear but its not right to have a gap at the bottom of the gullet. There are several bit/shank systems in common use they shouldn't be mixed, shanks should have numbers and/or letters stamped on them. I wouldn't worry about gramps around the mill if he's lived that long as a sawyer he's a cautious man. Frank C.
You should not see daylight between the inserted shank and the blade body. These new shanks and teeth did they come with the mill and did the mill come with more than 1 blade? They should be stamped. Something is not right. My guess not seeing what you are looking at is:
1) The shanks need to be set down in the gullet, I lay my shank wrench sideways in the gullet and tap them with down a hammer. The 'spring' of the shank is what holds the teeth tight.
2) The shanks are too big- meant for a different blade.
Have you inspected your anvils? The flat spot were the teeth set against the saw body.
When you put in new (tight) shanks it will effectively stretch the rim of the blade. If your blade is not hammered correctly it can wobble. Blades are hammered with the shanks installed to be slightly dish shaped. When it runs at it designated speed, centrifugal force will make it run flat. If your new shanks dish it too much or not enough it will cause you problems. Is there anyplace close you can take your blade?
Also the bearing next to the saw. If it runs hot it will heat the center of the blade causing all kinds of grief.
So I took an old shank and compared it to a new shank. There is a slight difference of a 1/32 to 1/16. The new shanks are B-9 and the old ones are B-9 S-J . Not sure what the S-J stands for. Maybe you guys can tell me.
S-J may have been the manufacturers mark. Simonds may be the S. Usually when there is a letter after them, it says they are an oversized shank. You put them in when a regular shank doesn't fit anymore. There are several sizes. I don't recall if J was one of the sizes.
Thanks Ron.
Don't take this as fact but they could be Spear and Jackson
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=B-9+Simonds
Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 16, 2014, 08:29:53 AM
Jimmy, changing bits on a saw that's been in use is easy an old rusty saw that has lain fallow for many years is a little harder. As Ron said one tooth at a time, clean the pockets and the shanks dip the shank in oil or wipe some oil in the pocket with your finger. As you turn the shank and bit in their should be resistance in other words the shank should be tight in its pocket. If the shank feels much looser than its brothers you should use an oversized shank or peen the loose one to stretch it. If your saw has old rusted in bits and shanks first soak in weasel fiss then hit the shank like you are seating it. Some shanks are tight, don't diddle, put the wrench on them and snap them out. Sometimes I hit the handle with the heel of my hand to break them loose, better tight than loose. Frank C.
What is weasel fiss?
Ozarkgem , its the slang term for various types of penetrating oil used to loosen nuts and bolts. Mayby its a local thing but mechanics around here use the term. weasel pith is the true term I just didn't want to have to go to the woodshed.
And Bluecreeper is much much better, I'm willing to bet. 8)
Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 21, 2014, 07:45:07 PM
Ozarkgem , its the slang term for various types of penetrating oil used to loosen nuts and bolts. Mayby its a local thing but mechanics around here use the term. weasel pith is the true term I just didn't want to have to go to the woodshed.
yep must be a local thang. ;)
My original belsaw blade had b-9 s-j shanks. When BH payne replaced the shanks years ago they used b-9 shanks. The only difference I can see between the two is that the s-j shank has a slight bulge near the tooth. They built me a new 40 inch blade this year and it uses b-8 shanks.
Tripp
I got some shanks from a friend that owns a very large sawmill that is now shut down. He had boxes of several different sizes. I installed the new shanks and ran the saw a little. I'm having a little issue with the carriage drive system not wanting to stay in the neutral position. If it was a bigger mill I would just put hydraulic drive on it but this thing is very small. Any suggestions on this ? I think it is just easing forward and then the pulleys touch and the carriage takes off. Thanks for the information.
Quote from: Tobaccoman on September 21, 2014, 08:53:36 PM
I'm having a little issue with the carriage drive system not wanting to stay in the neutral position. If it was a bigger mill I would just put hydraulic drive on it but this thing is very small. Any suggestions on this ? I think it is just easing forward and then the pulleys touch and the carriage takes off. Thanks for the information.
You do realize that the same people that read this topic, read the topic you already have going on the carriage creep.
Weasel stuff here too. ;D
I remember having that problem also, now that you mention it. Big pita. If you can change the pivot point of your control level to give you more movement on the shaft that moves you can use a longer belt - giving more separation between the reversing wheels. I remember using springs to hold that lever also. Very frustrating, having your log jump into the blade while you are trying to adjust for the next cut, not to mention dangerous.
The single belt system was economical, and kept the price low. If you can scrounge the parts for a 2 belt system they are better.
Thought you Mainers used " ;fisher cat pith". Baccoman carriage creep is not something you want to put up with as many times you must lean over the carriage to dog and undog. Sometimes its belt length ,other times you can make some sort of detent to hold your "money stick" in just the right place. Frank C.
Never heard of it as anything but "Panther P.." but weasel/fisher works too until the job calls for the big cat. ;D
It appears that moderator Jeffro has a problem with the questions I ask. Does anyone on here think that carriage moving all the time due to a stuck cable drum and carriage creep when running the saw are the same thing ?? This is the second time he has busted my chops over posting. If you don't see anymore post from me then I have either been kicked off or moved on. I really like this site and Thank everyone for the great advice and information. I'm new to saw milling and just trying to learn. Thanks. Jimmy
Don't sell the boss short. He is very intuitive and is trying to guide you so you get the help you need, even tho you may not recognize it as being helpful.
You likely won't find as many willing to help if you try somewhere else.
I hope you are correct. Maybe he read my question wrong. If not then he does not need to be a moderator on this site.
Jeff is the owner of this site, and the boss. And he has made this site what it is today with a lot of hard work. As I said, don't sell him short. And he knows considerable lots with his many years running a circular sawmill.
Hang in there... especially if you want to get that mill up and running. ;)
After the very nasty pm I just got, there is a very slim chance that this guy is going to be using this website for much longer for anything. He best know how to take his foot out of his mouth or he can go to the library from now on for help.
smiley_thumbsup
Gotta do what ya gotta do.
I gave him a chance behind the scenes. He decided to continue to show no respect. He is now gone. I'll not be threatened or called names on my own website.
8) :) Dont blame you, he had his chance.
Quote from: Jeff on September 22, 2014, 11:51:04 AM
I gave him a chance behind the scenes. He decided to continue to show no respect. He is now gone. I'll not be threatened or called names on my own website.
Wow, good on you. Great site btw.