Hello Forestry Group. I'm currently running a RipSaw XL4 and cant seem to keep a blade on it! Background: It used to run VERY well a few years back but I think I stored it with the tensioner on? Maybe? Anyways, putting it all back together it seemed OK until I started to speed up the motor then the blade wants to jump (forward) off the wheels! Idling doesnt seem to be a problem, just speeding up. Also, it doesnt want to jump off completly at first, just jump forward then back. Eventually, the rubber on the drive wheel rode forward with the blade and rubbed the gaurd so bad it melted. I cant really say if the bearings are worn or loose, maybe a just a little? I was hoping one of you experienced ones here maybe had gone thru this and can steer me staraight? Thanx in advance!
Welcome Virgil. I have never used a ripsaw, let alone see one in living color. It does sound like the track adjustment or something is out of whack with it. Have you tried a different blade?
Hello Mad Murdock! Yes, I've used up several now trying to figure out what the skinny is with this thing. Definetly a tracking issue but have never seen this happen before. I monkied with the tracking somewhat but it didnt seem to make a difference. I read some threads where tension could be a factor but not to the specific issue. What would make the blade return to the center of the wheel after slowing it down you think?
That is a tough one, a pic or 2, or a video of the thing would really be instructive to anyone tyring to offer up help. I would take the blade off, and run everything through by hand to see if I could detect a loose bearing, something out of whack, maybe the rubber material on the wheels is loose? or something with a blade guide being out of whack? a puzzler for sure. I hope you are able to sort it out and get it going ::)
Thank you sir, I will do that next week when I get back to the mill! And then figure out how to upload that. Now for loose bearings, I'm not sure how much looseness is acceptable? This is tricky but the drive wheel (the one that seems to be loosing it) seems "loose" compared to the idler wheel, but by how much? Maybe I just replace the bearings and start over?
Sorry for your struggles! a pic or vid would help,, not sure if any help is on this end or not, but glad to chime in if possible..
Virgil, I am of no help with any of your questions, but Welcome to the forestry Forum. :)
Virgil, based on what I know of machinery, bearings, proper fit and clearances-measure the outside diameter of the wheels, measure the shaft diameter of the center of the spindle on which the wheel is mounted and about which the wheel turns. I am guessing, obviously having not seen your specific issue, but if the bearings in question are standard single row ball bearings, maybe a 1/16" to 3/32" movement at the rim of the wheel would be acceptable? Beyond that then I would replace the bearing. If they are standard double row ball bearings, or high angular contact thrust bearings, then probably 1/2 that play at the rim. Depending on the speed of the blade on a ripsaw, it is entirely possible they they are bushings(oilite) rather than bearings, if that is the case, same would apply, minimum play. If you can rock the rim of either wheel such that you feel a knock and have visible movement, I would suspect bearings. If they are bearings, the other thing you came o is feel the bearing when spun by hand slowly. Good bearings run smooth with no "bumps" or gritty feel to them. Any of that and they are bad. Also if there is any nasty black or real dark or reddish brown ooze coming from the seal area of the bearings, the. They is cause for rejection also. Usually standard bearings are not real costly. I will stay tuned to your thread here for pics and more info.
Can you put a blade on and spin it by hand, with the mill turned off of course. Then you can watch and see if it is coming off of the drive pulley side or the idle side. This will narrow down your search.
I've seen this a couple of times..Most likely a bad bearing. Band wheels usually have 2 bearings side by side or a double row bearing. One side goes bad, the other still good. Turn the wheel by hand and the good bearing gives enough support to make everything look good. Put a load on the bearings with band tension and the wheel will wobble. In one case, the rear bearing had seized and wallowed out the cavity in the wheel.
Thanx to all that replied. They are ball bearings and there does seem to be just a little more wobble in the drive wheel. I have turned it by hand, no issue there, only when under power and generally three quarter throttle. I've already got it apart, might as well find some bearings and replace now. I'll also need to replace that rubber on one end. Calling Ripsaw probably wont do me any good though. Hoping to get some toboggans made before Christmas!!! Thanx again everyone. This really looks like a great site!
Quote from: Virgil on October 21, 2014, 05:21:44 PM
Hoping to get some toboggans made before Christmas!!!
Taboggans, eh? Sounds like fun! Welcome to the forum. Update your profile and let us all know where your from.......