First off I love my Honda. rig. I had a rear u-joint go out and was told it was a dealer only item. They don't sell the u-joint, you have to buy the whole drive shaft to the tune of 800.00 bucks! So I got on the net and found the u-joint for 20 bucks. Why do they want to rip the customer off like that? Its not limited to Honda by any means. Just ticks me off.
Was the part for $20.00 an original Honda part?
Parts are high every where. Used cars and truck prices are soaring. Its just blows my mind........but gas keeps going down. :)
Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on December 13, 2014, 05:58:05 PM
Was the part for $20.00 an original Honda part?
Parts are high every where. Used cars and truck prices are soaring. Its just blows my mind........but gas keeps going down. :)
No its aftermarket since honda won't sell a u-joint. All u-joints I have ever bought have been aftermarket. At least you can grease them.
It's a Honda what? car ?? Just curious, as was thinking splitter engine at first, or engine that size... u-joint jogged me back to something else Honda.
Quote from: beenthere on December 13, 2014, 08:01:51 PM
It's a Honda what? car ?? Just curious, as was thinking splitter engine at first, or engine that size... u-joint jogged me back to something else Honda.
CR-V AWD 2.4 engine.
I have a Jeep Liberty and had to take it to the dealer for a recall. They call me and said
the water pump was leaking and be for I said I will take care of it he said they could do
it. I ask how much and he said $600 dollars. I said no I will take care of it myself. The
pump was $45.00 at the parts store and it took me 45 min to fit it. Boy there labor must
be out of site and parts too. Sure glad I can repair my jeeps my self.
Sawwood
I have to do my own repairs, as my cars aren't worth what they want to fix 'em. Case in point- My Ford van has 8 coils, one for each cylinder. The Ford dealer charges $300 to replace just ONE of them! I bought an OBDII and figured out how to read the codes, and change my own coils. Pretty much all of them have been replaced now.
Quote from: scgargoyle on December 14, 2014, 06:18:05 AM
I have to do my own repairs, as my cars aren't worth what they want to fix 'em. Case in point- My Ford van has 8 coils, one for each cylinder. The Ford dealer charges $300 to replace just ONE of them! I bought an OBDII and figured out how to read the codes, and change my own coils. Pretty much all of them have been replaced now.
Mine are old also. I don't like to mechanic for the most part. I do the simple stuff. I have a guy who charges me 30 bucks an hr and does really good work. I paid 4200 for the honda and to spend 800 for a drive shaft made no sense.
We have two Jeep Grand Cherokees that I work on. Mine is a '96 and my wife's is '02. Both are easy to work on (straight sixes) and are in good shape mechanically and look sharp. I paid cash for them. I will never finance or buy a new vehicle off a lot, they are just too complicated anymore.
It's a common problem on older CRV's, common enough that you can buy rebuilt aftermarket shafts, a good driveline shop can replace the U joints as well. other than a few quirks like the drive shaft and timing chain (usually won't cause problems until 150000 -200000 miles) they are a very well built vehicle.
I was a little concerned when I saw this title, cause I just bought a new honda crv. I lucked out, it's not awd. Been my experience that replacing the U joint isn't the problem, It's balancing the whole works. Or you can do like me and just put in a new U joint and take your chances with any vibration. Being able to grease a U joint is not what it's cracked up to be. Yeah, it may have a zerk, but pumping grease in it will just about always lube 2 or maybe 3 of the cups and leave one or 2 dry. I dis-assemble new joints and pack them with wheel bearing grease. The older crv's were pretty much no-frills vehicles, but the one I just bought is loaded with just about any option. Even has heated leather seats, which I thougt was just another high-end option, but I like...
Quote from: Hilltop366 on December 14, 2014, 10:13:35 AM
It's a common problem on older CRV's, common enough that you can buy rebuilt aftermarket shafts, a good driveline shop can replace the U joints as well. other than a few quirks like the drive shaft and timing chain (usually won't cause problems until 150000 -200000 miles) they are a very well built vehicle.
I think mine has timing gears not a chain.
you tube shows how to replace the u joints.
Quote from: pineywoods on December 14, 2014, 03:18:06 PM
I was a little concerned when I saw this title, cause I just bought a new honda crv. I lucked out, it's not awd. Been my experience that replacing the U joint isn't the problem, It's balancing the whole works. Or you can do like me and just put in a new U joint and take your chances with any vibration. Being able to grease a U joint is not what it's cracked up to be. Yeah, it may have a zerk, but pumping grease in it will just about always lube 2 or maybe 3 of the cups and leave one or 2 dry. I dis-assemble new joints and pack them with wheel bearing grease. The older crv's were pretty much no-frills vehicles, but the one I just bought is loaded with just about any option. Even has heated leather seats, which I thougt was just another high-end option, but I like...
heated seats in La? I guess you could put a pot of water in the passenger seat and cook some shrimp while you were driving.
I think you guys are talking about CV joints, not U joints. I am driving one of two 1996 Honda Civics in our family. This one was my wife's which I inherited when mine went over 150,00 miles. Both cars carried an extended warranty (no cost) on engine, drive train, and ERG equipment of 150,000miles. She got a new Accord 10 years ago. I now have a Honda- trained guy working on these 2 vehicles, both way out of warranty. My Civic now has 194,600 miles and I get 37MPG around town and get 40 to 41 MPG HWY like driving to 10 Pig Roasts. Actually 9 Pig Roasts as I drove my Tacoma one year.
I recently replaced both front axle assemblies (4 CVs and 2 axles) as I had one CV starting to growl. Total cost including labor was way less than 1 CV joint at Honda (no labor) Should be good for another 190,000. Please bear in mind that I grew up just outside Detroit with a bunch of gearheads for friends. I drove nearly every VW product
from 1963 to 1987 and caught a lot of flack then. No so bad now as one guy has a new Lexus and two of the GM retirees have gone to the big drag strip in the sky. I guess my point is that this is 2014 not 1955. I do not work on cars and trucks anymore.I do work on chainsaws, older tractors and sawmills and a 54 YO honey do list. Merry Christmas!!!
I was wondering too that they meant CV joints.
And FOE, your honey do list is as old as mine... 1960, Nov. 27
Had a 88 Ford Ranger that I bought new. Going in to work one Friday for the 3-11 shift one day and it suddenly lost almost all power. Would not pull. Was about a mile from the dealer where I purchased so pulled in and asked them to check it while my wife was bringing me her car.
Called them later that evening and they said catalitic converter had stopped up and $600 + labor to replace. Had one installed on another vehicle couple years prior for a little less than $200 at a muffler shop.
Told them just to park it outside and leave me a bill and I would pay it for what they had done. Went over the next morning with a cordless drill and holesaw. Cut into it at an angle leaving a hindge on one side pulled it open and gutted it. Went to crank it and it would not start but would turn over.
One mechanic was working on his own vehicle so I asked him. He hymed and hawed around and then finally told me to check the fuel pump safety switch. It had went off so I reset and started. Could tell by his demeanor that it was purposely done. Never had a problem before that with it and not again for another 100,000 miles.
It is a Ujoint for the drive shaft that goes to the rear axel on all wheel drive CRVs. not the cv joints.
The 2.0l has a timing belt.
The 2.4l (2003 and up) has a timing chain.
I am appalled at the price of parts and labor. 215 bucks for a set belt buckle for the 97 Ranger, wrecking yards will not sell them. I suppose I could have bought the seat with the buckle attached. ::) 500 bucks (an hour per side) to replace two tie rod ends and an alignment on the Ram. Sheesh, my ten year old grand daughter could do that.
I had a 2004 Nissan Altima. I went for the annual inspection at the dealer. They told me I needed rear brakes (pads and rotors) and it would be $400. I did some simple math. $35 per rotor plus $30 for pads, total parts $100. $400 change minus the $100 for parts, leaves $300 for labor. In my driveway at home on the ground it take me 2 hours to get out all the tools, change the brakes, and put everything away. $300 divided by 2 hours = $150 per hour. But their sign says labor rate $89.99 per hour. Plus they have all the tools at the finger tips and the car on a lift working at a comfortable height. If I had a lift, a garage, and all the tools nearby it would take me two hours. That's where I see the rip-off is, $150 per hour while their labor rate is posted at $90. $90 per hour I can understand they must cover their expenses and pay their employees. But I cannot comprehend the $150 per hour. If it takes the professionals longer to do a job than an amateur (or weekend warrior) then there is something else wrong.
Check out the flat rate manual on the brakes for that car . Flat rate manuals are based on average time to do a job performed by a master mech.
Disk brakes are simpler than drum brakes .
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on December 15, 2014, 05:38:19 PM
Check out the flat rate manual on the brakes for that car . Flat rate manuals are based on average time to do a job performed by a master mech.
Disk brakes are simpler than drum brakes .
Four wheel disc brakes. I actually have "remote" access to one (have to make a phone call). It quotes three hours. Three hours!? For a pro to do the job? Doesn't make the situation any better. I think it took me three hours to do it the first time. For someone that does this work everyday, especially a Nissan tech, three hours is a joke. But I'm not laughing. It's still an obvious rip off.
only complaint I ever had about Honda.
I have 2009 135hp outboard motor on my boat.
lift lock kick stand broke (heavy engine, under warranty) and I miss first 2 weeks of fishing season waiting for parts (tsunami wiped out factory).
all the lift lock really needed was clam shell pin; which sheared off; but Honda replacement under warranty was entire mech (kick stand, lever, and all joining parts). I complain to my honda dealer about this, and next day repair is complete... (I suspect they find replacement pin at napa ;) )
JJ
Re heated seats in louisiana
Yeah, sounds like an expensive frill. The car I just bought was a demonstrator and already had the heated seats. No way would I have paid extra. We like them. Wife has a leg and hip that are always a few degrees colder than normal, the heat helps. Heated seat doesn't do much for me, but the warm backrest feels good on my tired old back. ;D
Quote from: pineywoods on December 15, 2014, 09:44:27 PM
Re heated seats in louisiana
Yeah, sounds like an expensive frill. The car I just bought was a demonstrator and already had the heated seats. No way would I have paid extra. We like them. Wife has a leg and hip that are always a few degrees colder than normal, the heat helps. Heated seat doesn't do much for me, but the warm backrest feels good on my tired old back. ;D
Once upon a time, in a previous life (style), I owned a Lincoln LS. When I asked if the heated seats were an option the dealer told me three things: (1) yes they are optional, (2) you will want the leather seats heat in the winter they get very cold, and (3) we won't unload the truck or any car from the truck that has leathers seats that are not heated. Can't sell that in the northeast.
For some reason the heated seats do a wonderful job on a sore back, even if it is 90 degrees outside.
Something else that gets me. Garages call up the local parts store for a part,the local part store delivers it to the garage for a list price of $250,the actual price is $150. They charge the customer $250. There is a $100 profit right there. I am lucky. I have a guy that works on my car,he just charges labor.
Can you buy that same part for the shop's cost? There is also a cost to deliver. I have no problem with the people that serve me making a a fair profit, they have to earn a living too. I just don't feel I should support them all by myself.
Regarding your mechanic, most shops won't let the customer supply the parts. Sales are an important part of their income.
Sawguy,I betcha the garage can get the part even cheaper than I can. ::) The parts store does not charge the garage for deliver in my area. The mechanic that I have,just calls up the parts store and they deliver the parts to his place. With a "his" cost and another price that a bigger garage would charge.
Quote from: thecfarm on December 16, 2014, 09:28:14 AM
Something else that gets me. Garages call up the local parts store for a part,the local part store delivers it to the garage for a list price of $250,the actual price is $150. They charge the customer $250. There is a $100 profit right there. I am lucky. I have a guy that works on my car,he just charges labor.
Had that tried on me once. Was getting new tires on my pickup. They tried to tell me the wheel bearings were starting to go bad (at only about 60k mostly highway miles ?!?). $350/side just for the parts. I told them I'd wait. Got home and checked Napa (which was where they get their parts). $250/side. The NAPA store is only about 2 blocks away. Jacked the truck up myself and didn't feel any slop. I still haven't replaced the bearings. That was about 80k miles ago. Needless to say, this place doesn't ever have much business when I drive by.
Regarding high parts/labor costs, it KILLS me to have to pay what places are charging for repairs these days. As far as Honda, I own a 2006 Acura TL and my last car was a 2003 TL. It has a 3.2L V6. I know many V6 cars use timing belts, probably because the tensioner system is cheaper and easier to manufacture, but for cryin' out loud! Cram a V6 into the engine compartment sideways and then try to change the timing belt! Yeah, it can be done but it's very painful (literally). If they really wanted to live up to the "premium" brand name, why wouldn't they use timing chains instead of belts and eliminate such a costly maintenance item?
When I changed the belt in my 03 TL, the Acura dealer wanted $1800 and the local service place wanted $1200. I just couldn't pay it so I did it myself. The water pump is driven by the timing belt so I changed it as well because I NEVER want to be in the timing belt cover again.
OEM parts cost me around $230 and it took me about ten hours to complete the process in my cramped garage with nothing more to work with except a socket set and screwdrivers. It was a... well... the name we call a female dog who has had puppies that starts with a "B"!
Here I am, 3 years later, the 06 TL has 136K miles and it's time to do it again. My back hurts that much more since I did it the first time and I KNOW what I'm getting in to and I STILL don't want to do it. I'm still a tightwad and I suspect that I won't have the ability to pay somebody to do it. You just KNOW that rates have done nothing but go UP!
One mechanic was working on his own vehicle so I asked him. He hymed and hawed around and then finally told me to check the fuel pump safety switch. It had went off so I reset and started. Could tell by his demeanor that it was purposely done. Never had a problem before that with it and not again for another 100,000 miles.
Driving home last Christmas from Kansas to Missouri on I 70 my ranger lost all power. It was cold out just above 0 degrees. I called AAA and had it towed back to the dealership. I received a call the next morning to come pick it up and the bill was like 30 dollars. I asked them what was wrong and they said it was the fuel safety switch got disconnected. My son was sleeping in passenger seat and kicked it when he moved his feet.
I don't know how or when the flat rate books came about but they seam to benefit the dealer and not the consumer. If a certain task takes 4 hours according to the book and the mechanic does it in 2 you still pay for 4. If there are complications and it takes 6 you pay for 6. Not fair if you ask me but most of the time we don't have choice. That's why I only take my vehicles to a dealer for warrantee work.
When I run a service station we got flat rate for repairs if we went over we ate it . Most of the time we beat the flat rate as that was the goal . So win some lose a few. Our rate was a lot less than the uptown guys and we had enough people griping about the cost . We thought that we did good by them , most of the people were happy but it only takes one or two that complain to ruin your good outlook. got to where I hated working for others just because of the few crabby customers .