A couple of months ago I started looking at bandsaw mills and got the bug to build one. I wanted to get on a forum and post some pictures of what I have built so far and get some input. I used steel tubing that I had left over from other projects and got most of my information from videos I saw on youtube.
The drive belt tension is applied by moving the motor left or right with the lever on the back.
Acme screws raise the unit up or down and will probably be motorized in the future.
A blade guard is in the works but not completed yet.
I am still shopping for a blade supplier. It will require a 174 inch blade.
I have the steel angle for the base but have not fabricated it yet.
Please look at the pictures in my gallery and let me know what you think. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39677/IMAG1012~1.jpg)
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Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Pls put your pics in your posts... it's protocol.. ;D
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
You've definitely found a great group of folks here willing to help you out.
Thats what I was going to ask for, picts in post.
I am new enough not to know how to get to your gallory. welcome.
gww
Leggman,welcome to the forum. The below should do it for the pictures too.
I like to go to whatever post or start a new topic first to include a picture.Go to your gallery,it will open in a new window.Click onto your album,then click onto whatever picture you want,it will get bigger,than scroll down a little to find,Insert Image In Post,click onto that,click Yes and that is it. Some have to copy/paste the link to work.I like to hit the enter key at least once or twice to move the picture down away from what I am typing. The enter key really helps to leave some white space if posting more than one picture or posting a comment. Use the preview button to see how it looks and modify it if needed.
gww,to view a members gallery,with no camera icon,click on their user name,that will bring to thier profile page,than click on to VISIT MY GALLERY.
Leggman, welcome to FF! Getting the pics in the gallery is the hardest part. I looked there and your mill looks good and strong. I'll help everyone out and post one of your pics for you...
Leggman's homemade mill
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39677/IMAG1010~0.jpg)
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Leggman, and nice work on the sawmill build.
Congrats on uploading the pictures to your gallery which should only contain pictures that are posted.
Thecfarm
Thanks for the advice.
leggman
Very nice and hope to see more. Question, where did you get the bearing for your blade guide?
gww
I bought the bearings on amazon. They are 3/8" ID and I think 7/8 OD. I turned the guides on my metal lathe from
1-1/4" round stock.
I have decided to go portable because I had a old project trailer just sitting in my yard begging to be used again.
The base for the sawmill will be 5" x 3" angle with 3" x 3" angle joining the two sides together. The v groove wheels will run on 1inch angle inverted in the inside of the 3"
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leggman
Thanks for answering my question. I don't have a lathe. My brother-in -law does but is in another state for another year till he retires and I have never used one so back to the drawing board for me. Good luck on the build.
gww
worked on the blade guard some today. I am going to have to notch the back to clear the top channel.
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To me your work looks really nice.
gww
Worked some more on the blade guard today. Almost done.
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Seems to be coming along nicely.
Cheers
gww
Looking GREAT. :)
Got a lot done today. Finished the blade guard and started on the base frame. After much debate I have decided that the trailer I was going to use was too short so I cut it in half and am going to stretch it four feet. That way I can keep the base at 20 feet and still be able to pull it good. Back to the steel yard.
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Thanks for the pictures.
gww
Okay, i am getting to the point in my build where I need to design the supports and dogs to hold the logs while I saw.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Quote from: Leggman on May 07, 2015, 12:33:44 AM
Okay, i am getting to the point in my build where I need to design the supports and dogs to hold the logs while I saw.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
As you probably know I'm also now building a mill.... And I'm watchen yours...
I'm at the same stage now. Building the dogs. Instead of drilling all the 1-1/2 holes like Woodmizer does I'm using part of a rack and pinion. I'm just using the rack. My dog stays on the rack and I just pick it up and move it towards the log. No lifting any pins out of hole and move to a new hole. It stays connected to the rack at all times. My next step is to make the cams or screws the cam into the log. I'm not sure witch way to go here yet.
That is some nice metal work you are doing on the mill. Once you start using it you may find it has a lot of play side to side and it may require turning it into a 4 post head instead of 2. At least that is what happened when I built mine.
Leggman
On your doggs, I watched a you tube vidio and then just put my take on it. I know you have seen my mill and there is not much that should be copied. I did however take the easiest rout on every part of it and my doggs are no exception. In using my dogs I have to have a hammer but the vidio used jacking screws. What I have is four pipe going between my rails that the log sit on. I got lucky and the four pipe were welded lower then the log rails so that I can get to them at all times. I then used a bit bigger piece of pipe to slide on the pipe on the rail and it can be jamed with no slipage. Rather then try to explain it I will just post the vidio that I stole the ideal from. It is at about the 5 min mark in the vidio.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwrqcG3faVQ
The one thing I did differrent was, I just put points going both direction at the top of the dogs rather then a jacking screw. I just slide it up against the log and then hit the bottom near the pipe on the track with a hammer to put it in a jam and then hit the top to drive the spike in the wood a bit, then hit the bottom till I am satisfied of the hold. To take the dog lose I just hit the bottom on the dog till it becomes unjammed. I can dog the log from both sides and if I have a knott sticking out I just dog it in the middle of the cutting deck to cut the log down. As long as you keep a hammer aroung it is really quick.
Anyway take it for what it is worth and it is one of the few things I am happy with on my mill although I have learned that you don't need to drive it in like you would a nail cause it holds really well and if you use it like I do to help you position the log by only dogging one end so you can slide the other end of the log, It putts lots of stress on your dog and I have had to beef mine up to be able to use it that way. I need to use it that way cause I am doing it by myself and am not strong enough to move the bigger logs easily.
Good luck
gww
Can you please post some pics of the dogs. Thanks
Finished up welding the stretch in the trailer today and moved the axle forward a couple of feet
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Quote from: Joe Hillmann on May 07, 2015, 08:05:46 AM
That is some nice metal work you are doing on the mill. Once you start using it you may find it has a lot of play side to side and it may require turning it into a 4 post head instead of 2. At least that is what happened when I built mine.
Thanks Joe. I should be cutting in a week or so. First cut will be a youtube video
Ok I will post picts incase someone needs a laugh, The vidio shows pretty good. I also would use a heavy short spike rather then flat plate if I wanted a little bit lower profile. I am always cairfull of which way I have them turned when cutting close to them incase the dimond shape of the flat plate is sticking up. with stakes in my squaring slots it hold a log well and the worst would be if you put them too tight on small stuff it could cause some lifting of the log. Mostly I love them though I do have one weld that is coming lose. I put lots of presure on them tying to use them in helping position logs. I only have a 4 foot kant hook.
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Like I said, the vidio is a neater job but with a hammer I do like my doggs ok.
Good luck
gww
PS It is important to have them lower then the bars that the log sits on and to have clearence from the ground up to the doggs. My log rest is 2 inch square on top of the teack and the pipe for the dog is even with the track. This allows for the doggs to go under the log so you can use from either side and also allows the hammer to get to them from under the log. If you angled the dogs this would be less important but it would then be harder to use the doggs on either side of the log. I had one log that I just couldn't move till I choped it down in the middle of my cutting deck. The logg was probly heavy enough left undogged but it was nice to dogg it.
got the bed welded up today before it got too hot out. Still havent rerally decided to weld it to the trailer or just keep it like it is so it will sit right on the ground.
I still have to make the dogs to hold the log in place????????
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Leggman is probably gonna have some "red leggs". :o :D
Leggman
Did you see the dogs at the end of this thread?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.0.html
Good luck
gww
Got started on the last phase (yeah, right) of my sawmill build. Making the log dogs. I am going to have four sets of these on my mill because the bed is 20 feet long.
I still have some more work to do but this is what I have so far.
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If all you guys on the forum look at his welds and metal working you will see why the guides he bequested to me are so well done. It has made all the differance in the world on the cuts I get.
Leggman, you keep such a low profile it is hard to profess how greatfull I was for your help.
Thanks
gww
That there looks like nice work and a good idea. Thanks for sharing!
I for one would like to see and hear more from you.
Only got a little more done so far this weekend. I got the jam nuts welded on the arm bottoms and capped off the long arms. Thinking of using pieces with teeth that I can slip over the stationary arms for the first couple of cuts then remove for the cants. Pics tomorrow. Dave
Can't wait.
gww
For what it's worth, and this may save you some extra unneeded work, I've found that teeth on the stationary arms, or backstops, aren't necessary. Just something on the clamps or dogs to hook into the log or cant to keep it from rolling or spinning away from the blade as it enters it.
Sometimes I don't bother dogging a log or cant once I have a flat side down. But then I'll see some of them hopping around like it wants to flip on me, then I'll throw a dog on. Some wanna dance and some wanna sit.
If I was wise I'd dog every one because sooner or later one will flip and that blade's gonna stop NOW. And be bent. Or broken.
I think I just talked myself into not taking any more shortcuts. It only takes 10 seconds or so to set a dog. ::)
Got them done today. It will be a few days before I get to cut. I have to build a peavey.
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Specs
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Quote from: Ox on May 25, 2015, 10:18:28 PM
For what it's worth, and this may save you some extra unneeded work, I've found that teeth on the stationary arms, or backstops, aren't necessary. Just something on the clamps or dogs to hook into the log or cant to keep it from rolling or spinning away from the blade as it enters it.
Sometimes I don't bother dogging a log or cant once I have a flat side down. But then I'll see some of them hopping around like it wants to flip on me, then I'll throw a dog on. Some wanna dance and some wanna sit.
If I was wise I'd dog every one because sooner or later one will flip and that blade's gonna stop NOW. And be bent. Or broken.
I think I just talked myself into not taking any more shortcuts. It only takes 10 seconds or so to set a dog. ::)
Love the sign
Leggman - your mill specs are identical to mine. Weird, right?
I also have the same engine and I believe it to be a little more than 13hp. The Honda 390cc is rated at 13hp but the Predator Honda clone is 420cc. Maybe 14hp? I did research before buying it and it had really good reviews and they all said it's stronger than 13hp, so that's a good thing for us!
I've had enough power so far.
I had to really idle it down from factory settings to disengage the centrifugal clutch which has 1800 RPM springs. I might end up buying the 2600 RPM springs just because it isn't good to idle a splash lubrication engine down low for any amount of time.
Your dogs look fantastic and well built.
Leggman
As always, great metal work with all the little fine touches. I am always impressed.
gww
Get r done. Got it welded on today and finally outside. I am going to add a couple more jacks to the trailer probably over the weekend. And maybe some tail lights
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I want my welds to look like that.
gww
The last time I welded a sawmill frame/track it warped all over the place using angle iron like you did. Did you have any problems with this?
My last build I bolted everything together for the track. More steel used and much more time involved but zero warping.
I understand that moving welds around and only doing a few inches at once helps but my last one still warped.
Ox
If you do like me and just get an old 20 foot peice of metal you don't have to take the blame for all the warping that was there before you even touched it. Thinking about adding 2 more just like it. Man my mill just weebles and wobles down the track but since adding leggmans guides I can't cut a wavy board. Now if I don't pay real attention I can still cut un square ones.
Gww
After I built the bed it did warp from the welds on the 1 inch angle. I flipped it upside down and put some heats every three or four feet and let it cool. That brought it back flat and I used a string line today to get it flat when I welded it to the trailer. It is massively solid now.
I've noticed that it always takes much less heat than I thought to bring things back straight.
My 19' 6 x 6 x 3/8" side rails were salvaged from my first mill build. One was bowed so bad I had to do something about it.
Did the triangle spot heating thing and it cooled and shrunk so bad that it went the other way. Of course, every time you do this it moves less and less until nothing happens at all. After chains and tensioners and more heat and 2 days of work I got it close enough that some hand filing/milling got it perfect for the mill head not to notice. I actually ended up with a flat rail with a hump in it about 1 1/2' long. Just used a flat bastard file with no handle to mill it flat and true to the rest of the edge and it works fine.
gww - good guides almost seem like half the mill, doesn't it?
ox
Quotegww - good guides almost seem like half the mill, doesn't it?
Yep
gww
I got two more trailer jacks today and some tail lights. Hopefully I can find the time to get them on this weekend. I still have to make a log peavey. Any ideas out there?
Yes, contact sponsor LogRite and get the best. 8)
Quote from: beenthere on May 28, 2015, 09:43:33 PM
Yes, contact sponsor LogRite and get the best. 8)
x2. Best darned cant hooks I've ever used in my life. They actually grab when you don't want them to sometimes! Can't say that about any other out there. Lightweight, strong, the absolute best. WELL worth the money. You'll love 'em, guaranteed.
Sounds like you're about to wrap your mill build up, eh? It's a good feeling. I was quite burned out at the end of my last build. Someday I'll get the nerve to try some pictures.
I am so tight I squeak when I walk so I will try to make one first. Then I will buy one. :D
Another stupid question? I keep reading on here about "stickering" your boards. Is that referring to the little slats that go between the boards so air can get in? I am new to this and curious.
Yes those "little slats" are commonly 1X1 dry "stickers". They are dried to prevent stain, or help prevent it as green wood on green stickers will often mold or stain.
Quote from: Leggman on May 29, 2015, 12:39:33 AM
I am so tight I squeak when I walk
:D My laugh for the day!
I don't have any suggestions for making a cant hook as I've never made one. I do know that the hook geometry is a very fine science and that some just don't wanna hook. The Logrites hook better than anything and that's all I know. I hope your homemade hook turns out well! :)
I got a little done today, I mounted the other two jacks. I got a late start because I slept in.
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I still have to mount the tail lights but not a big hurry for that.
Hopefully I will be cutting next week.
Quote from: Leggman on May 29, 2015, 09:36:44 AMAnother stupid question?
The only "stupid" question is an "unasked" question. :) :P
Looks good!
Film @ 11:00 ? ;D
Just a quick suggestion. You may want to think about NOT putting taillights on it and instead using a magnetic set when you tow it. There are a lot of ways for taillights to get broken by something heavy hitting them on a sawmill. If you do mount them you may want to think about putting some type of heavy duty cage to protect them. Like this http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-pc-stop-turn-tail-trailer-light-guards/A-p8187288e
Around here in farm country a sawmill is considered agricultural equipment. No plates or lights required. It's the same as pulling a discbine or hay wagon down the road.
Lights would be nice to try to wake up all the zombies that are driving the roads these days and help protect your investment.
Thinking maybe a couple of cheap c clamps that I can weld brackets to. That way I can take the lights off when I am sawing.
I have had as many magnet lights disinigrate as I have busted fixed lights. I mostly just pull durring day light hours due to this. I have a heck of a time keeping the lisence from getting beat up and lost also. It is nice to know that the mill could posibly be considerred differrent then a trailer.
You do have a mill to be proud of leggman.
gww
I'd add lights now while everything is nice and clean. Legal or not, it would probably take the same amount of time to do it now as it could discussing it along side the road with law enforcement. ;D Nothing against the police, they're just trying to keep folks safe. Please believe this, you will get stuck out somewhere after dark and wish you had them.
What I do is make "light cans" out of a piece of pipe that your light fits into and weld a piece of flat steel on the end. They are bulletproof.
I actually agree with Justallen. I do personaly have every light on every trailer broke or shook apart but I also have had to leave things sit all night due to this fact. The only thing that saves me is I never go anywhere. If I was going to use it often I would want it right. I still like ox's ideal of not needing a lisence. If you own lots of stuff, you can spend lots of time at the lisence office.
gww
I like the can idea. I have some pipe that should work just fine. Pics to come
I decided to once again change my mind and make the tail lights removable. I will only use them when I need them.
I didn't get them mounted because I ran out of daylight. I did get the handle for the peavey yesterday. 9.99 at lowes
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Hey now! That's a nifty idea. Thanks for sharing.
Got them done and mounted. A couple of turns with a wrench and the whole assembly comes off to be put away until needed again. I don't know if the pics will show it but the lights do work.
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Tack a couple of small handwheels on those bolts and you don't even need a wrench!
Herb