Hello everyone,New member, with no experience. I have 40hd super that i just purchased that i am doing some preventive maintainance on. It has the 51 cat and needs the drive belt and the bearing support kit installed. I also purchased the accuset 2 to replace the original setworks. What puller is needed to remove the stub shaft and the drive belt pulley. The thread size for the puller of "pulley keeper"? is needed.
Thanks
Typically on that type of bushing, you remove the bolts from the bushing then thread them into the holes used to push the bushing out of the sheave. As for the stub shaft, I would guess a soft mallet and a little tapping would get that loose.
Welcome to the Forum!
Thanks,for the welcome and info. I have found many very useful subjects on this forum. I believe the drive shaft bushing and sheave is what i am trying to remove. the picture in the instructions are not real helpful. The stub shaft looks easy -3 bolts to flywheel.I have to drive to town to get the bolts for puller and add to my collection, the set screw in sheave was metric, not sure if the puller holes would be. I will post what i come up with for size after my road trip.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, jaciausa.
Hello,
You should not need a puller. The pulley is a taper lock style. Remove the three bolts. Reinstall the same bolts in the holes. I think this one only has two. Draw up the bolts evenly. Don't tighten extremely just draw up then tap with a soft hammer or use a block and tap the pulley away from the lock. Tap and draw up the bolts you may need to do this several times before it comes loose. If the lock is tight you may then use a three jaw type puller to remove it. Most times it will come off with out the need of a puller.
The stub shaft flywheel bolts seem to be the issue. We heat these before even attempting to remove. They were lock tite when they were installed and they will be tight.
Hope this helps.
Marty
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/sawmill_brace_install_002.JPG)
Take them out and put them in the other holes.
And the alen screw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/sawmill_brace_install_003.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/sawmill_brace_install_004.JPG)
I did have to use the puller to get it all the way off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/sawmill_brace_install_005.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/sawmill_brace_install_006.JPG)
You will need heat to get the screws out like MartyParsons said.
And when you put it back together . Line up to the alternator pulley.
On mine, I went with the drive pulley and the alt was a ½" out to the pulley. I did not bring out the alternator, I think it will hit the guard over it. So I called WM and they told me to go with the alt and that made the drive pulley a ½" out of alignment and It would be all right.
Good luck 8)
Thanks to everyone for all the help on this. All of you must have did a few of these from the advise you gave. After cleaning the crank spacer holes I discovered they were like you all said, same as the ones that come out of the sheave. They are 1/4 -20 thread,very common! I had some grade 5 longer ones I used instead of the puller. The set screw was mil-2.5 in the bushing. The allen screws came out without heat with some blows with hammer. I didn't have a way to heat this or cordless inpact which probable would have been better. A fresh seperate allen wrench, 8 mil. of quality make was needed. The directions did not say anything about using any loctite! I am glad one of you mentioned this because i was not sure if I should. I am ready to put back together. Thanks. I do not know anything about sawing lumber with a mill or anything about this business. Do know carpentry and construction business after 40 years if i can be of any help.
Hi Jac,
Ooo! It's a good thing I'm not at the airport!
Where abouts in Iowa are you located? I'm here too, somewhere.
Hello Jim,
Down close to Burlington
Quote from: jaciausa on May 04, 2015, 01:11:38 PM
Thanks to everyone for all the help on this. All of you must have did a few of these from the advise you gave. After cleaning the crank spacer holes I discovered they were like you all said, same as the ones that come out of the sheave. They are 1/4 -20 thread,very common! I had some grade 5 longer ones I used instead of the puller. The set screw was mil-2.5 in the bushing. The allen screws came out without heat with some blows with hammer. I didn't have a way to heat this or cordless inpact which probable would have been better. A fresh seperate allen wrench, 8 mil. of quality make was needed. The directions did not say anything about using any loctite! I am glad one of you mentioned this because i was not sure if I should. I am ready to put back together. Thanks. I do not know anything about sawing lumber with a mill or anything about this business. Do know carpentry and construction business after 40 years if i can be of any help.
You dont want heat or an impact on the bolts that hold the pulley on.
If you take the temper out of the hard bolts or brake one of them off in the hole
then you would have a problem... Just lots of lube and work slow.
Thanks for that advise. A new,quality allen wrench of the correct size was the secret to my success.