Hey guys, i have 1 rear hub seal that was leaking. I tried the bent knife trick and made it a bit worse. I have Rockwell PR75's on it. Does anyone know the part# for the hub seal or better yet an aftermarket part number. And how difficult will it be to change? Maybe a quick coles notes version of what I have to do if someone has a spare moment!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~108.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~107.jpg)
Its not a bad job just did the two front wheel seals on my C5 tree farmer. They were the same axles pr 75 and only costed like $120.00 for both. I don't remember the part # i'll see if i can find it. Total job took me like 5 hours to do both sides and it was my first time ever doing them and i was by myself so i can tell you its not a hard job. Take tire off, drain planetary make sure your mark your planetary covers and the hub because they have to line up just right for the bolt holes to match. Remove covers and three planetary gears, remove axle shaft, take locks out of nut and back it off, and then hub should come off.
Thanks Farmboy! I'm in the final stages of fixing things up, just had the oil pan off to pound out the dents in it and braise the leaks. Had to separate the front axel from the frame and jack it up to get enough room to get the pan out. It will be nice to get this all done and start haul'n some timber!! 8)
The oil pan will come off without separating the cradle from the axle, you have to run the front tire up on a block to tilt the cradle all the way to one side.I will say it only comes out on one side and i forgot which tire has to go up on the block!!!! its hell to get old !!! maybe someone here will remember. Don
Hey Loggah.....well if I ever have to take it off again I'll give that a shot!! Its all back together now, no metal filings or surprises anywhere in the oil or filter and when looking up at the bottom of the engine any exposed cylinders walls look excellent!! Just have to fabricate up a skid plate to bolt up to protect the pan. Looks like the hump who owned the machine before me never thought to replace it when it fell off. And just slapped the Jb weld to the pan :o
Well better get back on topic. Ill get that hub seal going and post some pics! 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~111.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~109.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~110.jpg)
Moose, just a tip, if the area where the seal rides is badly worn, I was able to build it up with jbweld and turn it down. It saved me getting a speedy sleeve. My bearing house couldn't guaranty that the speedy sleeve would work cause my seal area was so tapered. The JB weld seems to work good with no leaks, but it wont last as long as a speedy sleeve but my machine is just for hobby. My seal is mounted to the spindle and rides on the seal surface on the hub, so it ma be backwards of yours but same concept.
Drill motor with rubber friction wheel to turn hub slowly for machining. The hub is sitting on the spindle underneath.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21468/P4230003.JPG)
Dremel mounted to arm to machine down jb weld,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21468/P4240007.JPG)
Worn seal area buttered up with jbweld, (sorry forgot to get before shot of worn out seal area),
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21468/P4230001.JPG)
Fresh area for seal to ride,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21468/P4240011.JPG)
Please put the pic in your post that you want us to see. Thanks. ;)
Or with so many pics in your gallery (I don't recall seeing all of them in your posts), just point out one or two and give the month and day the batch was posted that shows it. Saves sorting through over 100 of your pics. If you would, please.
Hey Tantoy, thanks for the advice. I should have it off tomorrow and my fingers are crossed that i will not need a sleeve or JB! I got side tracked today with installing a high presure valve on my brake line to act as a parking brake. Seems to work pretty good, holds the fluid real well.
I'll
Have a look through your gallery and hopefully i'll
Get into the hub tomorrow so i can post some pics.
What is the bent knife trick? I dont think I can hurt mine much worse. Im adding gear oil daily its leaking pretty bad. I will replace the seals after this job is done in 2-3 weeks.
Hey Lumberjohn, i read about the bent knife trick on the forum. Apparently dirt can get stuck in the seal and cause it to leak therefore if you bend a thin butter knife at about 90 degrees you can clean around the seal.
I got my seal out today and the issue was as Tantoy warned. There are grooves work in the area that the seal rides on. The number on my seal is A1805-V-568. Does anyone know a Napa partnumber for this seal?? Or does anyone know another aftermarket part number?? If not Ill be on the hunt tomorrow! I think Ill fill in the groves with JB weld and sand them smooth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~113.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~118.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~115.jpg)
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Tantoy, I like the American inginuity your using there 8) ;) .
A 1" impact does the same job. ;D But hey, been there done that.
Sorry no help here for the seal hunt.
mooseknuckle, i had bad luck with any thing but a national seal. i would try and get a national if i were you. pretty sure the merritor seal is made by national.
Sounds good treeslayer!! I'll hit up napa and B&B Dixon tomorrow and see what they can find. I'm gonna give rightsparts.com a try as well, ill go through their distributer in Quebec, they seem to have a very good supply of aftermarket parts
For all sorts if logging equipment. I'll make sure to post my results for future reference! Appreciate all the help guys! :)
I did my front wheel seals like 3 weeks ago and man i was shocked when i went to take the wheel nuts off. You could spin everyone of them with just a 3/4 drive socket they weren't even tightened. I bought it last summer and ran it all winter was lucky that I never had the tire come off.
Quote from: Farmboy 96 on May 26, 2015, 10:23:14 PM
I did my front wheel seals like 3 weeks ago and man i was shocked when i went to take the wheel nuts off. You could spin everyone of them with just a 3/4 drive socket they weren't even tightened. I bought it last summer and ran it all winter was lucky that I never had the tire come off.
yer lucky you didn't bust a planetary. them nuts need to be tight.
they are now 3/4 drive ratchet with a six foot piece of pipe standing on it.
they are now 3/4 drive ratchet with a six foot piece of pipe standing on it.
Quote from: Mooseknuckle on May 26, 2015, 08:10:31 PM
Hey Lumberjohn, i read about the bent knife trick on the forum. Apparently dirt can get stuck in the seal and cause it to leak therefore if you bend a thin butter knife at about 90 degrees you can clean around the seal.
I got my seal out today and the issue was as Tantoy warned. There are grooves work in the area that the seal rides on. The number on my seal is A1805-V-568. Does anyone know a Napa partnumber for this seal?? Or does anyone know another aftermarket part number?? If not Ill be on the hunt tomorrow! I think Ill fill in the groves with JB weld and sand them smooth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~113.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~118.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~115.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~116.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~117.jpg)
Moose, If you had access to a lathe it would be pretty easy to machine down the jbweld on the spindle
Hey Tantoy, I picked up some JB thismorning as they wanted 118.00 for a speedy sleeve!! :o
I picked up the seal which is a Timken Brand. They had National but I would have had to wait. The Timken #416865 was 44.00 dollars Canadian....... Not bad!
I put the JB to it and now im just taking it down.
Heres some pics of the seal and JB job so far 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~120.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~121.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36925/image~119.jpg)
Looks good. The speedy sleeve I looked at was 140.00 but like I said we just couldn't verify if it would work and it was non returnable.
and you guys think that this JB stuff (its an epoxy?? no?) will hold up the constant friction from the seallip?
Moose: how did you grinded it down so perfectly?
Hey Teakwood, yes JB is an epoxy and apparently the origional JB is stonger than JB Kwik. I just watched a video on strength and apparently Locktite Steel is the strongest.
If you look at the picture attached, you will see two small grooves that the seal wore into the riding surface. I beleive this was done by the metal ring on a previous seal that should have been changed out prior to that damage occuring. I dont think the rubber seal itself could cause those two grooves. I used a puddy knife to push the JB into those grooves and once dry I used sand paper to take it down. I just cut peices long and the width of the lip and with a hand on each end alternating the pulls. Once I got down to the orgional steel I used emmery paper 320 grit with some oil to sand it smooth as glass. Over time it may fail but for the amount of work I'm doing it will last forever. If this was my livelyhood I would have got a speedy sleeve. Its all back together now and holding the oil 8)
I learned many years ago cutting corners causes problems down the road, if you are running machinery do it rite the first time, sure money talks but cobbling something together to save a buck will bite you later, do the speede sleeve and do it rite.