My neighbor and I have been looking for a metal lathe for a while to play with and make parts. Well, we found this one for about scrap price and it looks like it has been used very little. Now I need to learn a -lot about lathes! It came with a few accessories and about a 30lb box hss and carbide tooling.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0045.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0052.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0047.jpg)
That is a nice piece, i have a 17 x 60 , but its alot older than that one, you will be making mandrel shafts now , and every thing else , if you got tooling with it you did good.
we have one similar in size. just be careful till you get it figured out the auto feed was broke on ours when we got it then my brother was just playing trying to learn how to use it and had a 2" keyed shaft in it and was taking a big cut around a .100 when he got to the key way the tool caught and broke the tool holder off :( we havent fixed it yet probably wont till we need it :D thats the way it normally goes around here :-\ :-[
Nice score.
:o That is some serious machinery. 8)
Nice score, Jake.
I want one about 2/3 that size, but would definitely grab that one for the right price.
That looks like a serious piece of machinery there. 8)
Jake, for someone who lives in a little town in the middle of nowhere, you and Larry undoubtedly come up with the best finds of anybody. Good score !!!!
I found an older gent in Norphlet, Ark that has a warehouse full of similar good stuff. Got a lathe very much like yours, just had to swap out the 3 phase motor for a single phase..
Very nice score Jake and from what I can see it looks to be in great shape.
If you don't have 3 phase power available, your options are to
1. Swap the motor for a single phase unit.
2 - install a rotary phase converter that will generate the third leg of three phase power for you.
3 - install a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) on the lathe.
Personally I prefer option 2. The nice thing about option 2 is that if you acquire any additional 3 phase equipment you're already set up with three phase power. Just be sure to size the converter large enough to run anything else that you might buy.
You sure do seem to score a lot of old iron. I'm a little jealous. Do you think I could borrow that lucky horseshoe you've been holding onto? ;D
Pretty hefty machine!
I have an Atlas 12" lathe I'm playing with. Made a few parts so far.... also made some scrap metal that were supposed to be parts too!
Nice score. How much spread does it have from end to end? 4', 5'? My brother found one that looks similar. He's self taught and made some good money making parts part time with it. His is 3 phase, and he used option 2.
Nice score. Makes my 16 inch south bend look like a mini lathe. One of the most important tools in a metal working shop. :)
Mine's only a 4-1/2 x 9, but at least I didn't need a trailer to move it :D :D.
Quote from: Brucer on June 23, 2015, 01:55:52 AM
Mine's only a 4-1/2 x 9, but at least I didn't need a trailer to move it :D :D.
I'm just glad we brought the 10,000lb rated trailer to get it.
We have been talking about how to unload it. One option is to try the beam he has in his shop. It is a 14" steel ibeam spanning 32'. It is a peaked roof so the ibeam is bolted together in the middle using grade 8 bolts. We also have two 3ton chain hoists to lift it off the trailer. The other option is this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0054.jpg)
We each have an engine hoist rated for 4000 lbs with the boom retracted all the way, and we know where two more are that we can borrow. How would you unload it if it were you? The "estimated" weight from the man we bought it from is between 5 and 6 thousand pounds with most of that weight being towards the chuck.
Also, what size wood beams to use? Assuming straight grain white oak beams 10' long. I tried the forestry forum calculator but I don't know all the fancy numbers like modulus of elasticity and whatnot.
Nice find.
"Every man should plant a tree, have a son, and own a lathe" --modified proverb.
The first thing to do when moving heavy iron without Heavy Iron is to turn your feet sideways and think like an Egyptian.
Or get in touch with Charleton Heston...
In place of the 4 engine hoists, use 4 corners of cribbing, 4 bottle jacks (or fewer if need be), two heavy beams and some chain.
Rig the lathe to the beams tightly so they become 'of a piece'.
Raise the lathe on the cribbing just high enough to pull the trailer, then carefully lower each corner incrementally (or each end) in turn.
Bars and pipe on a hard surface will do most of the rest.
All the while, make sure there is nothing between you and the machine so as not to get pinched if things go pear-shaped.
And yes, the headstock is generally heavier. Take a lot of time with the rigging, as it looks like it will want to roll once the base is clear of support if slung under the bed.
Assuming you don't already have a copy, South Bend published a useful toolbox-sized booklet titled 'How to Run a Lathe'. Should be readily available new or used.
Back the trailer in and park it, you have a portable lathe :D. Seriously though, very nice find!
If I lived nearby I'd give a few lessons (I'm a retired machinist), ask around and find a retired machinist that may want access to the lathe occasionally and you might get some good pointers.
One way would be to jack it up on some pipes and roll the heavy end off the back onto some cribbing and then you could use the engine hoists with a I beam spanning them to pick up the light end to get the trailer out and let that end down on cribbing. then you could shift the engine stands from end to end to drop it a couple of inches at a time onto some pallet jacks to move it around. I would most likely try and find someone with a heavy forklift to avoid back injuries. :)
Thanks for all the info guys!
Nice one. I'm jealous.
Though mine was MUCH smaller (12x36 Craftsman) - reduce the weight as much as possible. I removed the chuck, tail stock, motor/jackshafts and as much of the tool rest as possible. Then two of us worked on getting hernias :D That chuck looks to be a few hundred pounds on its own.
I'd find someone with a forklift first and use cribbing/small jacks second. And work slowly and very carefully!
jake try this two web site. pdf of a 16 x60 Nebel lathe.
pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/nebel/nebel-16in-gapbed-lathe.pdf
www.umanuals.com/.../nebel/Nebel-16-18-Inch-Series-LN-Lathes-Broch...
PS
I don't know what I am doing had to copy and past to google to get to the site.
Nice score! And a word of warning. When you un-thread that chuck, be sure that your hands are not underneath it. You'll probably want to place some wood blocks across the ways under the chuck(s) when you change them.
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on June 23, 2015, 12:39:14 PM
Nice score! And a word of warning. When you un-thread that chuck, be sure that your hands are not underneath it. You'll probably want to place some wood blocks across the ways under the chuck(s) when you change them.
I put the largest piece of stock through my head (and long) and tighten the jaws on it. When you unscrew, the stock will take the weight. And, yes, protect your ways! I've seen where people have a little swing crane-like arm that holds the chuck so you can thread/unthread it without having to hold it.
I think I'll use a chain hoist and tractor when I have to change chucks. And thanks for that link Elk42. It's a pretty need ad for these lathes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/Screenshot_2015-06-23-12-40-45_1.jpg)
looks like you got a steady rest, face plate and a live center with it. What is the taper in the tail stock. ie Morse taper 3,4,5 ect. I would guess a 5. If so I have some 5 centers that we had on the CNC lathe. Get a quick change tool post and use carbide insert cutters. Forget the HSS cutters. When you buy inserts get the good ones. The cheap ones are a waste of money. They chip and break very easily. Nice looking lathe. I love big old American made equipment. Since I retired I have a Leblond Regal lathe I bought from the college in Joplin years ago. 16x54 If I remember right. I don't do big stuff anymore. Just for my use. I am supposed to be retired.
You get a wrench for that L-XXX series chuck mount? If not there is a guy on practicalmachinist.com that makes them our of AR steel very reasonable. I bought one, but can't remember the guys handle so you will have to search.
It came with a quick change tool holder and a box full of cutters. I am just getting started in "precision" metal working and there is a lot to learn. I don't know what the taper is on the tail stock. Don't even know how to find out. And I've heard hss is better for cutting certain grades of aluminum but that's about it. Here is the tooling pics.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0049~0.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0051.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0050.jpg)
Larry, you may need to come out and give us a crash course training session once we get it off the trailer, leveled, and powered up.
The best publication ever printed for the beginner, is titled How To Run A Lathe by South Bend Lathe company. Its available as a free pdf someplace on the web, and I think Grizzly also sells it. I just happen to have an extra copy in my library for check out....stop by.
Jake there is two things you need first is a machinist handbook 29th. and a L S Starrett catalog for your hand tools, go with the best you wont regret it.
PS
HSS tools can be used for most steels, it all in speeds and feeds.
x2 on the hss tooling you can save a lot of $ compared to carbide plus you can sharpen them. ;D
im guessing this is for personal/occasional use if you were going to use it full time i would go with the carbide. but with the cutters you got with it you probably have a lifetime supply. :)
I follow a couple fellows on Youtube that make chips pretty regular.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79/videos
and
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyjwQ6oz4cqqtEcWGboSU3g
Very good info and interesting projects.
you already have the QC tool post. I didn't see it at first. Wholesale tool in Tulsa is the best place to get the tool holders for it. Call MSC and ask for a catalog. I have used them for over 20 yrs . A person answers the phone and there shipping is always the same day.
We finally got around to unloading the lathe.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0201.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0202.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0204.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0208.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/IMAG0213.jpg)
Nice ingenuity. smiley_thumbsup
Agree with MM, good and clever move!
Nothing to it ;D.
I wonder how it compares in size to the one that @hardtailjohn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=19418) has??
In answer to an earlier question it is probably a #4 Morse taper for the tail stock, look at the sleeve for a number like 3-4 or 2-3, if that sleeve fits it's the bigger number. Wish I was closer to help you out.
Quote from: gspren on July 19, 2015, 05:44:59 PM
. Wish I was closer to help you out.
You aren't the only one.