I found a 2010 tk 1600, 80 hrs. Been under shed,looks like new. It doesn't have a hydraulic log clamp or setworks. My question is, is this mill capable of these being added. Thanks for any info. Dean
Has anyone here ever added setworks to an older mill.
Sorry I can't help with your question,But if you would call TK, they will help you.I called once & they are real helpful. Even sent me an owner manual at no charge.
Quote from: bama20a on July 31, 2015, 10:04:57 PM
Sorry I can't help with your question,But if you would call TK, they will help you.I called once & they are real helpful. Even sent me an owner manual at no charge.
x2 on how helpful tk is they treated us like we bought a new mill when we bought our b20 last fall :)
Thanks for advice. That's what I did and I agree they could not have been any nicer.
Trying to decide whether to buy older mill and add setworks and hyd. clamp or go with new mill.Any opinoins welcomed.
Just how important is setworks and are they really accurate?
Very important to production and accurate sawing. I did not say that it could not be done, but to me very important. Without setworks, I would quit sawing.
Currently Iam running with out setworks on my B 20 I've done it before for 6 months. It takes some getting use too but I think it's benifical to learn your manual skills. That way you can keep track of accurate cutting of your set works. I trust it but sooner or later it needs fiddling with. Currently mine is out of operation need to send it in.
Thanks Magicman and Redbeard.
Hi Dean:
Welcome to the TK family!
The set works is fairly straight-forward to add.
The clamp not so much. It requires an additional hydraulic valve at the operator station and, more challenging, hoses in the energy chain. The energy chain on this model was not designed to accommodate more hoses, which means it needs to be replaced. The energy chain tray was not designed to accommodate bigger chain so it needs to be enlarged. Each of these adds time, expense and complication. I would think you could find a good used 1600 with the more up-to-date features you want.
In fact I believe we have a customer with one for sale who is looking to upgrade to a 2000. You might give Matt a call about this as that's a little out of my daily bailiwick. My job is to just push my pencil back and forth across my desk all day. (You younger guys may not know what a pencil is. Google it for a little history lesson...)
Oops -- I was right about the mill but wrong about the clamp on it -- it also has the old style...
i am sawing without setworks and dont mind it at all after 3 months of. when we got our mill the setworks was dead so instead of just ordering new one from timberking i decided to custom build setworks that are similar to what would be on big automatic circle mill. had any thickness of lumber any commercial cant size with touch screen to operate it. it was super nice except for one thing it might work 3 days or 3 weeks then it lock up and would have to restart computer. we fooled with it a couple of months and i just cut it off and went back manual. we installed a switch to switch back and forth between auto and manual but i dont even miss it know ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31193/IMAG0359~1.jpg)
Picture is worth a 1000 words. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31193/20150322_112055.jpg)
Mine is the simple setworks.. select size.. select start position.. (cut, return, hit autodown.. ) repeat.
Nice pics, sure is nice to have a head that goes up-down really fast like the new TK mills have for sawing through a cant like that. Steve
Thanks Will,that post has helped me make my decision. Where do I find Mat.
Call up TK and ask for Matt. ;)
For the highest production possible, setworks are key. If production isn't essential, than you might be fine without.
Thanks Steve.. I think the slowest part of the mill is me! ;D
A not so good picture of the simple setworks.. it's small.. behind the level and covered w/ ziplock bag.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31193/IMAG0510.jpg)
I have had my TK-2000 for a couple of years now and i LOVE IT.
Setworks = 9 out of 10. i now have an error 2. will be sending Matt an email. will post result here.
Remote throttle = 8 out of 10. needs to move slower by 15%
Hydraulics = 8 out of 10.
log loader = 9 out of 10. needs to lift new log about 2 inches higher to have it role onto the bed without help.
log turner = 9 out of 10. has trouble rolling LARGE logs, 32 inch by 18 foot.
toe board 8 out of 10. rams need to be moved more to the log stops to prevent twisting of toe boards.
Log stops = 9 out of 10.
Log clamp = 9 out of 10.
FYI, no mill is a 10 out of 10. there are always room for improvement.
now looking at how to do a dust collector system. 55 gallon barrel is not enough.
DDW_OR,welcome to the forum.
Put some 2x6 blocking underneath the log loader arm bases, there's your two inches. Dual chain turners would be nice. Welcome to the forum.
Thanks for all of the input it has been very helpful.
Found a 2013 tk 1600 with only 10 hrs. New auto sharpner and setter still in the box.
Hope to go get it this week. Can't wait to get started
For now it is working.
Turned Setworks on, pressed set home, moved string-cable that senses head up-down and the Setworks display changed.
Then turned Setworks off. turned engine on, turned Setworks on. Pressed "set home". Used lever to raise and lower head. Setworks display changed to reflect current height of blade.
Changed preset 1 to one inch. Raised head to 24 inches. Checked blade height. Was 24 inches above deck.
Then proceeded to do "auto saw down" then "auto saw up" several times. Blade height was not accurate. then remembered that the hydraulics need to be warmed up. So I then ran the carriage down the 21 feet to the end and back 2 times. Then re-did the down-up test and found it to be accurate.
Matt at TK stated that they some times see an Error 2 on new machines. Mine had 59 hours on it. Matt stated the probable causes of an Error 2 could be, loose wire connection inside connecter, or relays in the Setworks sticking. Or wire connections to the up-down hydraulic solenoids.
I think the problem may have happened when I had the Return set to 23 inches and I had raised the head to its max height, then pressed "auto saw" up or down I cannot remember. The Setworks then displayed Error 2 and lowered the head to 23 inches and stopped working.
In conclusion I believe the problem to be a combination of operator error and software error.
How do i add photos?
QuoteHow do i add photos?
A picture posting tutorial is on the bottom of the index page. If you need further help, then ask. :)
this is a copy of the email from Mike at TimberKing
From your description yesterday, it sounds like your setworks is now working correctly.
I do still recommend (as I indicated to you on the phone yesterday) a thorough disassembly/inspection/cleaning of the three M12 connectors, as well as the connections in the electro/hydraulic solenoid valve, and the terminal strip inside the setworks box.
If the problem re-accrues then i will do this. For now i need the mill to cut lumber for a shelter for the mill.
THANK YOU Magicman.
I really like my Mahindra 5510 tractor and Farmi 501 PTO skidder winch, 11,000 pound pull
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/GEDC1152.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/Kolpin_Saw_Press_Bracket_-_Front.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/Kolpin_Saw_Press_Bracket_-_side.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/Tractor_-_Mahindra_with_Farmi_501_winch_-_1.JPG)
Nice tractor set up. 30-40hp??
51 hp
problem is back.
started engine, turned SW (SetWorks) on, pressed set home, moved head up and down and SW showed height.
moved head to highest position and SW display showed about 18 inches. moved head to lowest position, SW display showed negative numbers, pressed set home, SW display showed 1 inch. raised head to highest position and SW display showed just over 28 inches. then lowered head and display stayed just over 28 inches.
lowered head to lowest, pressed set home and raised head a final time, SW display did not change from 1 inch.
all head movement was with the lever, never with the SetWorks.
removed encoder, opened case, ohmed cable from encoder board to SW terminal block.
all wires are good. no shorts detected or opens as i moved cable.
here are the voltages measured at the SW terminal block
00.00v chassis grnd
06.19v spare
12.59v spare
06.19v down
00.00v limit
06.19v up
00.00v limit
05.02v +5v
11.72v +12v
00.00v grnd
09.96v a
09.97v b
00.00v +12v
00.00v grnd
12.64v down
12.65v up
I've never seen that problem on my mill but it does sound like a loose connection some place. One place that could cause trouble is the string encoder. When manufactured it has a hole to facilitate fixturing. Circled on the picture. On my mill the hole was open and debris/water could enter the mechanical mechanism which might cause problems. The encoder manufacture recommends the hole be plugged. If I remember right I think the thread is 10-32 and I used some silicone sealant when I plugged it. Might be something to check out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/2011_07260002.JPG)
In any case you might not want that hole open.
here is an update:
received a new encoder made by SICK.
measured from bed to blade = 20 inches
setworks with new encoder measured 20.25.
looked at how cable/cord aligned and saw the hook in saw head was off center.
drilled new hole so cable/cord is now strait; left to right, and front to back.
setworks now shows 20.125
of course timberking did not send any instructions or hardware.
so a trip to Home Depot for some stainless steel hardware.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/GEDC1200.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/GEDC1201.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/GEDC1204.JPG)
Did you set "HOME" at 1" after installing the new encoder?
yes, I pressed the "Set Home" button.
the one inch is stored in the Setworks computer.
a member of Timberking showed me how to get into the programing of the Setworks.
if you want to know how then call Timberking.
My saw kerf was set to zero. he had me change it to .08
still is not cutting correctly, but close enough for my lean-too rafters and beams.
will do more on correcting the inaccuracy next week.
have not forgotten, just snow and higher priority's are preventing work on TK problems.
have not forgotten, just MUD and higher priority's are preventing work on TK problems.
should start in March 2016
started the mill up today. did a bunch of one inch cuts. seams to be working. will do some milling tomorrow.