I have had my eye on an old shortleaf pine that is really slick and flat topped. It has pretty much done its deed. As they get old, the pine beetles get them, so I wanted to harvest it before they did. I went several times to look it over, and one time with the intent to fell it. However, after looking it over, I was not comfortable with felling it. It is about 24" in diameter, and it is leaning very drastically to one side. The stress in that tree has to be incredible. I looked at the tree and thought, "If I don't do this right, this tree will barber-chair and kill me". So, I walked away.
At the Pig Roast, I asked @Chet (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=134) about his thoughts on the best way to proceed. He gave me two options, one was open a conventional face, bore the tree leaving a hinge, cut back out to the backside leaving holding wood, and then come to the backside and quickly cut the holding wood. The second was to open the front face, bore in about a third of the way leaving an hinge with holding wood in the middle, Go to the other side and bore in a third of the way leaving holding wood in the center, and cut each of those thirds all the way out to the back. This leaves a "T" with the hinge on one side and the holding wood extending from the hinge all the way to the back with this strip of holding wood perpendicular to the hinge. Then come in from the backcut and cut the center holding wood as quickly as possible toward the hinge.
I settled on the first method. Opened the face, bored in from one side as far as the 20" bar would go leaving about a 1" hinge. Then, went around to the other side and began to bore in to meet the first bore cut. After I got in about 4", the tree pinched the bar, and I was done for. Took the saw off the bar, leaving the bar in the tree, went back to the shop and go another bar and chain. Then I took a skidding chain and wrapped it around the tree about 3' off the stump to hopefully keep any barber-chair from killing me, finished the bore cut, then came in from the back and cut the holding wood. Success!
Here is pic of the tree as it stood in the woods showing the severe lean/bow of the trunk.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1103.JPG)
Got the logs skidded out. Looking at the top of the first log, the pith is about as bad off-center as any that I have seen even though the log is relatively straight.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1104.JPG)
The plan was to cut 9/4 planks out of this tree for farm table tops. I wanted to modify quartersaw it and get mostly rift and quartersawn planks to help with the stability of the boards. After looking at the pith, I am thinking that I will cut this log as if it is two trees. Looking at the pith, center the pith in your imagination so that there is a equal amount of wood in each side and call that the first "tree". You can see from the pic that the juvenile core is a different color than the surrounding mature wood. I would position the narrow side of the log up on the sawmill bed and make a cut just below the boundary of the juvenile wood. Move that off to the loader arms. Then turn the bottom part of the remaining "tree" 90 degrees and modified quartersaw it.
What do the experts think? Remember, I am not cutting framing lumber.
I've seen white pine that bad before. I had one log that I got nine 7"x7" timbers out of it. I was going to resaw them to 6"x6". Way too much movement. I made 1" lumber out of them.
Well im watching with interest.
I understand your plan and am interested in the results. There is so much stress in that log that I am afraid that you will be dealing with serious crook. I personally would prefer to deal with bow.
An 1" of hinge on a tree that heavy is not enough, as you found out. The weight of the tree can squish the hinge and close your saw kerf. I would have warned ya if I had seen how heavy it really was. ;D Tree is down, logs not destroyed, and nobody hurt, good job. :)
If your Short Leaf is anything like our Red Pine you better chain dat baby ta da mill when you saw it. There's some serious stress wait'n ta be unleashed. :D
When your dealt off centered piths, make rocking chairs. ;D
This is going to be an adventure :).
Just out of interest, it looks like the central core has concentric rings. Suggests the tree was growing straight up until that point, and then it got leaned over. That accounts for the straight log, but it's subsequent growth has been off centre, and likely has all sorts of stress going on.
Interested to see what happens when you open it up. ???
Quote from: Ianab on August 09, 2015, 09:34:03 PM
Interested to see what happens when you open it up. ???
Boing :D
Good 1 Chet. :D :D :D
Should be interesting. I sawed whittled a similar loblolly a few weeks ago. Nice looking log, about 20 inch by 16 foot. The lean was about like yours, on a creek bank. A windstorm took care of the felling. I have cut my share of pecan, hickory, sycamore, elm, persimon etc. but that was the most cantankerous piece of wood I have ever put a blade to. Let us know how it turns out.
That is a good plan, except you left out the part where you take the first "log" off the loader arms and throw it in the burn pile. ;)
The creek bank trees gets a heavy duty ratchet strap put on the stump about 2 feet abouve my cut before sawing
This will keep the tree from spliting and kicking back. You got to really crank down on the strap hard.
You could also use a comealong.
I encounter off-center SYP quite often. The butt end of the butt log will give you the most grief, so hopefully you "jump-butted" the butt log at least a foot up from the felling cut.
I prefer to flat saw those uglys to prevent sawing propellers.
It makes the most sense to flat saw it. I am leaning (!) that way this morning. I could cut down another big pine to quartersaw. Still mulling it over. The results (at least green from the log) will be known soon.
Ian, I see what you see and believe that the a high wind in a storm leaned it over to that extent after it was about 20 to 25 years old, then the weight from the big top all to one side cause the bend. The tree is 70 years old now.
WDH
If it is off center like you say that is what I do flat saw wide boards.
Following this thread intently. That's as bad off center as I've ever seen, but mine were cut into firewood. Interesting to see how this one mills up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1441_28Small29.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0766S.JPG)
Off center SYP piths is not uncommon, but WDH's is an extreme case. The butt logs generally give the most grief.
I cut a lot of red alder. Nothing like pine, as the wood is even-grained, soft, and brittle. But most of them lean and are full of stress. They are famous for barber-chairing. I wrap them up just above my cut with a 20 foot chain when there is a lot of lean to keep them in one piece. I make firewood out of most of the leaners, as the cants just curl up. Luckily I have enough of them to pick the rare vertically standing ones for the mill. The only thing I might do with some of the highly stressed base logs that are just too nice to go for firewood is cut the cants way oversize and trim away to eliminate the stress and just waste off the trimmings. It's worth it for that clear wood.
I chickened out and flat sawed it :).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1107.JPG)
Sawed it like you would with a log with sweep. Basically squared it up, and cut down with the horns down. I rotated it often 180° to try to relieve some of the stress.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1106.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1108.JPG)
All in all, I got 420 BF of 9/4 x 10' (2 3/8" thick) and mostly 11 to 13.5" wide.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1109.JPG)
I tried to center the pith on both ends as best that I could. Even so, a few of them like the ones on the top left are wanting to move some already, mostly bow a little.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1110.JPG)
I will sticker and evaluate before kiln drying.
For those of us watching at home and soaking up all the experience we can get from paying attention, this is a great thread. From log assessment to stacking..... thanks for posting this one. Free wisdom! Good use of a log that many would have put up in smoke.
How long did the logs set before you cut them up?
Not bad Danny. I would have sawed it the same way. smiley_thumbsup
Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on August 10, 2015, 06:23:57 PM
Not bad Danny. I would have sawed it the same way. smiley_thumbsup
I bet he did not cut the whole log before he off load a piece of wood. :D :D :D smiley_nananana
Quote from: Peter Drouin on August 10, 2015, 06:36:38 PM
Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on August 10, 2015, 06:23:57 PM
Not bad Danny. I would have sawed it the same way. smiley_thumbsup
I bet he did not cut the whole log before he off load a piece of wood. :D :D :D smiley_nananana
You're killing me! :D :D :D :D :D
The logs, four 10 footers, were sawn this morning less than 24 hours after the tree was felled yesterday morning.
I suspect that a little more than half of them will dry pretty well. As to the others, "Oh well :)".
Can't really "age' the logs or even the cants as they will get blue stained in less than 2 weeks. I did not want blue stain in these boards.
Sounds/looks like you salvaged all that was salvageable. 8)
Quote from: WDH on August 10, 2015, 08:43:15 PM
The logs, four 10 footers, were sawn this morning less than 24 hours after the tree was felled yesterday morning.
I suspect that a little more than half of them will dry pretty well. As to the others, "Oh well :)".
Can't really "age' the logs or even the cants as they will get blue stained in less than 2 weeks. I did not want blue stain in these boards.
Up here in NH if we don't let the pitch run out the logs and cut too soon the pitch will be on the face of the lumber and when you plan or cut it . All your tools will gum up bad.
After drying in the kiln and going through the sterilization cycle at 150° for 24 hours, the pitch is set (crystallized), and it will not gum up your tools the same way that pitchy air dried pine will. I don't kiln dry all the pine, only that which is slated for woodworking.
Pine Man, when are you going to get your kiln?
Quote from: WDH on August 10, 2015, 09:35:10 PM
Pine Man, when are you going to get your kiln?
As soon as he's finished cutting 4 foot stickers and gets something to eat. :D :D :D
If that is the case, he might not have time for a kiln, or he might starve :D.
Quote from: WDH on August 10, 2015, 09:46:34 PM
If that is the case, he might not have time for a kiln, or he might starve :D.
The way it is here I can't even get my 24'x65' shed all up. Like today with all the customers and phone orders I can't get things done.
smiley_horserider
Danny I can't say that I blame you for flat sawing it. Sure wish you were brave enough to saw it the way you first talking. Would have been interesting to see how the wood moved while sawing but also while drying. I get lots of chances to see how wood moves in the sawing process but not near enough after the drying process. "You've come far pilgrim." ;D
So I eyed it off and made my call then said nothing because short leaf pine - well just about any pine (pine is a four letter word around here) is not on the list of things I encounter and I can't make a fool of myself with a shut mouth.
For the record I'd have - as lying in the initial picture- dropped a cut vertically through just to the lright of the discoloured juvenile area and let it drop tension, then made a call as to quarter or back made on that. The right hand half I'd be looking to through and through as it lies in the picture, the right side with the pith I'd have probably backsawn chasing width.
I was kinda looking forward to seeing how it cut.
So I face this decision every day when I'm in the cabinetry/joinery/flooring timbers. (General framing is always backsawn) Do I chase wide backsawn boards or narrower quartersawn ones. My timber mostly springs a lot so pulling the spring back out of Q/S means trading recovery for a grade premium. Sometimes it's worthwhile... Sometimes I'll just back them and take the grade hit, and if it's under about 15" I'll nearly always go backsawn or through and through cut them to avoid the worst of the narrow boards. Boards under 4" wide I avoid unless that's all it can make.
I'm interested to know just what the premium would have been if you'd quartersawn it? For me it averages 25 % depending on species, but average recovery with that premium drops back by not less then 25% as well. If I presented a theoretical perfect world flooring flitch to the bench that's 6.25" x 6.25" say, I'd expect either 5 backsawn 1 x6 or the same number of Q/S 1x4's. I weight out bow in the drying process, spring I have to cut out... The yield is 25% more with backsawn, dollar value of the recovery though is the same. Marketability is a " it depends"... But mostly it favors the Q/S, and definitely once they start getting some width on them. A bigger log I'll always quarter cut if he's going to cut clean.
I'm just interested to know how those numbers compare, or where y'all start thinking it's better to go backsawn then quarter cut.
I had two concerns with sawing the logs using my original line of thinking to saw them like each log was two trees in one. The first concern was that I would not be able to get the whole juvenile core into "tree #1" in the log so that when I sawed "tree #2", I would get a big side-bend in each board. The second was that the rift/quartersawn boards from "tree #2" would be 5" or less. I have a hard time selling 5" or less boards unless they are walnut. I knew it would be close, so I opted to flat saw them to minimize the tension and warping from the compression wood formed because of the drastic lean.
As to value for flat versus quartersawn, the premium that I shoot for for quartersawn over flatsawn is given below:
Red oak 25%
White Oak 50%
Sycamore 50%
Pine 25%
The white oak and sycamore move very well. For some reason, quartersawn red oak moves slow for me, so I don't saw that much.
We will know how good or bad these boards turned out in about 4 - 6 weeks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1115.JPG)
The butt end of the butt log is more likely to give misery.
From the picture it looks like you have dedicated concrete drying pads?
Pretty cool
Quote from: YellowHammer on August 14, 2015, 11:21:28 PM
From the picture it looks like you have dedicated concrete drying pads?
Pretty cool
Yeah, what's up with that?
Yeah, the pads are pretty new. It got aggravating always having to shim and level the stack foundations, so I bit the bullet and poured enough concrete pads to be able to air dry up to 7000 BF at capacity at the end of the saw shed.
I have room for another 7000 BF under the planer room sheds. You can see the planer room in the background of the pic, at the far back left. No concrete pads there yet. With buying the edger, increasing the size of the shed by 1/3rd, pouring the pads, and buying a spanking brand new LT40HDD35, my bank account was whining.
WDH- I think you made the right choice. I've tried to get fancy with sawing a log like that only to be rather disappointed with the time/reward ratio.
That helper lurking in the background of the third pic looks mighty familiar. ???
Quote from: customsawyer on August 11, 2015, 04:32:09 AM..."You've come far pilgrim." ;D
I can't not watch that movie when I flip across it. One of my favs.
That stranger is one of my very best repeat lumber customers. He makes beautiful pieces. His name is Mike, and is now embarked on a mid 1770's style high boy with the cabriolet legs. He will make it from some of the curly cherry that Jake and I cut about 8 months ago.
Oh, he wasn't who I thought he was :-[.
He wanted to see the sawmill run. Sawmills are like magnets. Not chick magnets like puppies are. Sawmills just attract older guys like us who wish that they had a sawmill :D.
Quote from: WDH on August 15, 2015, 07:15:59 AMmy bank account was whining.
Looks like that slab tree is whining too. ;)
It is a chinaberry, so let it whine. Been thinking about taking it down, but I want the stump gone too, and I do not have a crawler loader ( ;D) .
But you needs dat slab tree to hold dem slabs. ;D
Quote from: WDH on August 15, 2015, 07:15:59 AM
With buying the edger, increasing the size of the shed by 1/3rd, pouring the pads, and buying a spanking brand new LT40HDD35, my bank account was whining.
Oh quite your whining. smiley_crying
With what you charge to build Walnut Dining Tables, I'd be surprised if you didn't up grade to an LT70 widehead.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
I don't know goat, with what you charge for slabs, I'd have expected to see a wide head in your shed already!
Den won't let you negotiate for him, but you can come negotiate to sell my slabs. The ones in the slab pile, not the ones on stickers :).
Whenever I pith off center, Darlene gets mad. :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: 8) 8) ;D
Let's keep it clean...
I really like the drying pads. Good thread
Great thread Danny!! Always glad to see you hard at work.........
Quote from: WDH on August 15, 2015, 07:15:59 AM
With buying the edger, increasing the size of the shed by 1/3rd, pouring the pads, and buying a spanking brand new LT40HDD35, my bank account was whining.
My bank account would be in a coma... ;)
Quote from: WDH on August 15, 2015, 09:38:08 AM
It is a chinaberry, so let it whine. Been thinking about taking it down, but I want the stump gone too, and I do not have a crawler loader ( ;D) .
Ha! If you think your bank account is whining now just wait until a crawler/loader attaches itself to you!! Not only will you be able to persuade that chinaberry stump to relinquish its grasp to mother earth but you may very well relinquish any sanity you have left - just sayin'
WDH, I found time to read this entire thread last night. Its a little over my head yet but this is how you learn! Thanks for all the follow through and pictures. I look forward to the next chapter. Brian
"Crawler loader" came up late on Saturday at the pig roast. VERY educamational!
Laughed until my pith was off centre too.
Has anyone got a picture of one of those ? is it a dozer with forks?
One of those might help for the next chapter of this story - by being used as a weight on top of WDH's stickered lumber.
Danny I saw a crawler loader for sale in one of the papers. Do you want me to get the number for you?
Andries a crawler loader is like bull dozer with a bucket on the front. You could probably get one with forks but I have never seen one. Danny if you get one you will need Andries to come down and guide you with his hand signals for those times you need a little fineness. :D
I heard that there are many uses for a Crawler Loader.
I decided to bring in some reinforcements for a little help from the top. If this does not help, I will have to get the number for the crawler loader from you, Jake. I also heard that Andries is particularly good with hand signals, so I will need him to make the short trip down from Canada to help when I put the new crawler loader on the stack.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1132.JPG)
Nice FAN!
Doesn't need a Powerbox.
Andries,
For your edification, my John Deere 450C crawler loader:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10273/Broken%20Cyliinder%20JD450.jpg)
Yes, the cylinder was broken, just one of the many joys of owning one :D
Actually it is rare for the bucket to be on my machine. Ordinarily a set of forks are on the front to compliment the 30hp winch on the back.
Show off. Danny will need one for sure now. :D
A broke down crawler loader with forks? My more could a man want? :D :D
Quote from: WDH on August 22, 2015, 08:01:04 PM
My more could a man want? :D :D
Spell check? :D
Quote from: WDH on August 22, 2015, 08:01:04 PM
A broke down crawler loader with forks? My WHAT more could a man want? :D :D
I believe that there is more off center than piths here. :D
Quote from: Magicman on August 22, 2015, 08:19:50 PM
I believe that there is more off center than piths here. :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
This thread is just like being around a campfire. Good stuff! :D I enjoy reading your guys' banter.
You can talk about off center pith, or even pith on the campfire. It's okay, unleth you are lithping.
Well, some results. I have judged the results, "Poor". I air dried the lumber to 20%, then into the kiln where the planks were dried to 8%. Pulled the stack yesterday because I have two customers that want very thick pine for rustic farm tables. Here is what the stack looked like coming out of the kiln.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1281.JPG)
I deemed 4 of the thick planks sawn at 2 3/8" thick unusable because of bow. The bow was from 2" to over 4" if you pulled a string and measured the distance from the middle of the string to the board.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1282.JPG)
In the next pic, the eight planks on the left are nice and straight and flat. These are primarily the center cuts from the logs where the pith was centered in the cant. The six planks on the right have some bow, from 1' - 2" along the length. These were mostly sawn from the side of the tree with the wide rings. Usable if cut in half and jointed flat, then planed, but I would not use them full length.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1284.JPG)
About 2/3rds of the 1x's that were sawn to create the cants are OK, the other 1/3rd are junk. I like facts and data. Here are the results in %.
Very good. Table top quality 44% Value Loss $0
Usable in short lengths (5') 33% Value Loss $63
Total junk 23% Value Loss $189
Total value loss = $252 versus the same amount of BF of very good quality. This is a 30% value loss. Better to just center the pith in the cant by slabbing off the wide side (when there is this much off center pith from sweep) and throw that away.
I was hoping for better results. Only enough for 1 and 1/2 farm table tops. The second customer only gets 1/2 of a table :). You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear (old saying).
Thanks for the update, this one is bookmarked for reference, a picture is worth a thousand words,
Thanks for the update, WDH..I didn't see the stacks in the kiln, but were they weighted? If not, do you think enough weight would have made them dry flat? I would think so, to some degree?
Bad logs (can) make bad lumber. :-\
No doubt, MM...they sometimes surprise you though, in a good way...sawed about1500 bf from my firewood/ugly pile as part of my pre snow sprint yesterday...some nice surprises...and plenty of "as advertised" on the outside logs...
Very interesting data. So the ones sawed from the deep side of the log, cut from the side of the tree with the wide rings to center the pith had the bad bow. So if the boards had not been sawn on that plane, but had been sawn perpendicular to that, they would have stayed straight, but would have a bad curve on the side that could be ripped off?
This is something I've been kind of playing with lately, basically sawing all the sides except the deep side, not centering the pith at all, but sawing everything off, except the deep side, until it is basically all that's left on the cant, with a highly uncentered pith, then rotating it 90° and sawing it perpendicular to the growth rings, much like taking the center cuts out of a quarter sawn log. So the stress will pull the boards into a curve but will stay flat, which can be edged later, as opposed to boards that will bow and can't be salvaged. Not sure if I explained this clearly. I've been playing with this technique because I routinely get some highly uncentered cherry and noticed that when I sawed from the deep side the log the boards would later warp and be unusable. However, if I sawed relatively perpendicular to the grain on the the deep side, the boards would stay flat, however would need to be straight lined later and were salvageable. Does this make sense, or is my pith off center, also? :D
Makes sense, and that warp edgewise is called crook (vs bow which is flatwise warp).
Quarter sawn boards do tend to crook and need the straight-line rip or edge jointed.
Hope that doesn't throw the hounds off the trail. ;)
bk,
There was another pallet of lumber on top of the pine in the kiln. The weight did not overcome the stress in the lumber.
YH,
I believe that your technique would have yielded better results. Still, this tree was severely bent, and I was barking up the wrong tree (old saying).
Thanks WDH... I once had a stack of 10/4 cherry slabs...weighted with a heavy equipment ramp across the top, then lined with 80# bags of concrete from one end to the other...a slab 5 down from the top decided it was going to twist and come up 2"... And it did, ruining the 4 slabs above it...I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it...but I also thought pine would be more forgiving, or not have the "strength", if you would, to do so...wrong again...
Quote from: WDH on November 29, 2015, 08:32:17 PM
bk,
There was another pallet of lumber on top of the pine in the kiln. The weight did not overcome the stress in the lumber.
:o Some logs just don't cooperate ;D
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 01, 2015, 05:38:12 PM
Quote from: WDH on November 29, 2015, 08:32:17 PM
bk,
There was another pallet of lumber on top of the pine in the kiln. The weight did not overcome the stress in the lumber.
:o Some logs just don't cooperate ;D
If I have the choice, I send the grumpy logs to the firewood pile, unless I paid for them, then I am the grumpy one and just salvage what can be saved.
The lure of this log was that it was an old growth shortleaf. Sometimes you have to cut the sweepy ones, just not into thick tabletops :).
Quote from: WDH on August 15, 2015, 07:24:56 AM
That stranger is one of my very best repeat lumber customers. He makes beautiful pieces. His name is Mike, and is now embarked on a mid 1770's style high boy with the cabriolet legs. He will make it from some of the curly cherry that Jake and I cut about 8 months ago.
I referenced a queen ann lowboy that Mike was making out of some of curly cherry that Jake and I cut. Here it is.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_1333.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/Marion_s_2016-01-21_062.JPG)
mike does nice work smiley_thumbsup beautiful wood too the pellet mill here chips all the cherry we get for cooking pellets i try not to be there when they do it. it hurts to bad to watch :( they will even chip veneer logs :o
Obviously Mike's pith is not Off Center. Very nice! :)
Nothing off-center bout that masterpiece! wow!
Quote from: OneWithWood on August 22, 2015, 11:49:28 AM
Andries,
For your edification, my John Deere 450C crawler loader:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10273/Broken%20Cyliinder%20JD450.jpg)
Yes, the cylinder was broken, just one of the many joys of owning one :D
Actually it is rare for the bucket to be on my machine. Ordinarily a set of forks are on the front to compliment the 30hp winch on the back.
Very cool loader, I have the case version with timber winch and bucket....just need to add a fork attachment to make it more handy in the yard. I find them to be very useful, I'm making roads now with it but waiting for frost to tidy them up - frost doesnt seem to be coming this year,
Very impressed with Mike's skills with the cherry wood. smiley_thumbsup
The outdoor pic really shows off the wood and the finish quite well too.
Beautiful workmanship, and a fantastic job on the legs!
That Mike has talent. Wow!
Factory nice, meant in a good way. ;D
Impressive work. ;D 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) :snowball:
That queen anne piece is marvelous! Outstanding!
Danny, if you want to keep up with ONEWITHWOOD, I have a broken John Deere 350B if you are interested! I think I've used it about 10 hours, worked on it for 60, used it for 1 more hour and it broke again. I knew I'd have work to do, but not like this. At the moment, the rear main crank seal is gone, slinging oil into the starter, killing it. I don't expect to find anything in order when I pull the engine, after I figure out what I'll use for a hoist as it's in the yard! I just thought I'd offer! ;D
Quote from: grweldon on February 08, 2016, 11:47:16 AM
That queen anne piece is marvelous! Outstanding!
Danny, if you want to keep up with ONEWITHWOOD, I have a broken John Deere 350B if you are interested! I think I've used it about 10 hours, worked on it for 60, used it for 1 more hour and it broke again. I knew I'd have work to do, but not like this. At the moment, the rear main crank seal is gone, slinging oil into the starter, killing it. I don't expect to find anything in order when I pull the engine, after I figure out what I'll use for a hoist as it's in the yard! I just thought I'd offer! ;D
WDH should jump on that! What could go wrong? yikes_smiley
Every thing that could go wrong already has :D.
Danny just think of the drama that machine could add to your life! :D
Such fodder for stories around the fire...
I haven't laughed that much in a long time. Who would have thought that a crawler loader would have caused that :D.
Yesterday, this Red Cedar made me think of this thread,
as in Frozen Off Center Pith.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20160209_154813.jpg)
The temps with wind chill was down at -33 C.
:(
Quote from: customsawyer on August 22, 2015, 07:10:20 AM
... Andries a crawler loader is like bull dozer with a bucket on the front. You could probably get one with forks but I have never seen one.
Danny if you get one, you will need Andries to come down and guide you with his hand signals for those times you need a little fineness. :D
February milling lacks a whole lot of finesse in this weather.
My hand signal finesse is severely downgraded while I'm wearing these:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Lobster_Mitts_1.jpg)
Lobster Mitts ! (not for catching crabs!)
Better you than me in that kind of weather.
-33 and outside do not go together!
I do like the mitts. My grandmother knit me a pair like that except she did not complete the trigger finger on on of them. I could have my finger out for the trigger or in the main mitt for when walking..... I wonder what ever happened to those.
It's so cold that the tape measure has frozen to the log. :D
Quote from: YellowHammer on February 10, 2016, 11:39:27 PM
It's so cold that the tape measure has frozen to the log. :D
:D :D
Andries is that tape measure in millipeters or inchworms?
I don't know anything about my pith, but have a crawler loader with forks that probably does. It out lasts me every time I fire it up. Forks work an hour then sometimes pith off center and go limp.... I guess I over estimate their staying power.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41049/100_4347.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41049/100_4348.JPG)
squid
Nice Dresser, they make good units. Had a TD-9H on the farm we used to pack bunk with. Can't see the whole thing, but that track looks tight from my house!
4x4
The tracks are set to Dresser specification, 1" to 1 1/2" slack between track idler and front idler. I've had the tractor for a long time and it has been good to me. I keep up on the maintenance schedule and it has not let me down. It has some leaks, nothing serious, it is in better shape than I am. New sprockets, idlers and tracks have approximately 1,500hrs on them.
Good looking out for me, I appreciate your observation/comments, thanks.
squid
Everyone should have a crawler/loader 8)
Yeah, then they will find a wohle lot of things in life really aren't as bad as they thought they were. :D
:D :D
I have sawn several Pines this week that were "off center". They are what they are. When you encounter them just square the cant up and saw through from either the hump or horn side.
Seat time vs wrench time. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10233/FE_loader.jpg)
But when it's running good, which really is most of the time, it gets a lot of work done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10233/FE_loader2.jpg)
One With Wood, Weekend_Sawyer
Like your choices in support equipment, not sure how we got in My Pith is Off Center!!! At least you can see my pith in pic #2 of my earlier post and in my next picture.
I enjoy pictures, so here is another, who needs forks???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41049/100_4282~1.JPG)
squid
Ooh, I got bucket envy!
By the way Danny, thanks for this thread, I learned some things.
Jon
Talk about crooked pith, this Bull Pine was the poster child for it (made good firewood).
If you own a crawler loader long enough, you won't be able to afford food or clothes, just look at the operator!!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41049/100_4229.JPG)
squid
:D :D