I've been trying to improve my output and consistency with framing lumber on the HM126 and have come up with something that helps a lot. The scale on the HM126 has a lot of parallax (I'll fix that some day) and I find it hard to make consistent drops even with the scales I CAD up. I made some gauge blocks for different stuff I'm cutting and it really helps. It looks like it would take longer to use these, but that has not been the case. Pretty fast and the results are good.
This gauge has one side for the cant width and the other side for the board thickness. It keeps me on track from one time to the next. When I get to the dog board, I turn it over and measure up for the last cut. A little more difficult to hold it in place, but still works out.
Just thought I'd share this - maybe it'll work for somebody else, or maybe I'll get a better idea from someone who's got a better way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39962/Gauge_1_28229.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39962/Gauge_1_28329.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39962/Gauge_1_28129.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39962/Gauge_1_28229.jpg)
Now I like that idea. do you just set it on the cant?
I just set 'em on the cant and tweak the blade height while watching the the space between the top of the cant and the bearing surface of the gauge. It's pretty easy to stop where the gauge just settles on the cant. I made these to measure to the set of the teeth, but you could gauge make them the gauge from band itself instead of the teeth. Either way as long as you do it the same way each time. (Maybe I'm trying to be too precise, but error creeps in all on it's own. Heck - I even thought I might allow for different shrinkage depending on grain orientation - but that really would be going too far. Unfortunately I have a background where 0.001 is a lot.)
Thanks for posting. I did the thin board with slots cut in it on the table saw and then clamping it to the mill with a weld/visegrip clamp. It has helped my speed and consistancy but like you I still have consistancy issues. I believe I will try your ideal. I always seem to lose the bottom board due to several factors. Squareness, can't cut low enough and lots of times stress in the log (I believe). Sometimes my mill cuts perfect and sometimes I end up with a half inch differrance in thickness or width on the last board. Some times it is perfectly square when I turn and some times I have to shim. I thank anyone who post things that might help my speed and consistancy.
Thanks
gww
I tried making a cant that would end up with the dog board at the desired thickness, but that's way too much to hope for. Now I'm turning the dog board upside down and measure up from the bottom and shave off the top to finish. Works better for me and I give the thin stuff to a neighbor who likes to make bird houses or just use it for whatever.
If I see stress making the cant bend up or down as I cut boards, I rotate it 180 degrees. (Always listen to Magicman.)
One thing about boards that I am too lazy to edge or that are not good enough that I feel like trying to dry them, If the price is right they go like hot cakes. I put a bunch by the road for free and they didn't last a day.
Cheers
gww
Simple, & effective! Another option would be to modify your scale so that the indicator is stationary and the scale slides up and down. Paralax isn't an issue since you always view the indicator from the same angle.
Good suggestion. I had planned to modify the scale but I hadn't thought of making the pointer stationary. Even with the gauges, I still need the scale for cutting stuff that'll get planed, etc. I may find that I stop using the gauges, but right now they're working for me. If I'm not careful I can spend all my tune cutting bait instead of fishing, so I'm going to forge ahead until the scale modification makes it to the top of my very long list. If I could get someone to clean up my slabs and sticker my lumber it would help.
gww - If I was couple miles closer to you I'd stop by for some of those free boards. Free is my favorite price - unless I'm the seller. ;)
Nice gizmo there, fixed gauge blocks are a proven height indicator. I too would take a good look at the scale to try and find a way to make it work, but that method most definitely works.
Never really could figure out scales. On my TK1220, I use the following technique:
After a cut, I lower the blade 1/4" past the depth I need and then bring it up "two clicks".
Perfect dimension every time.
I too have the 126, I measured 1-1/2 up from the bunk to the blade and marked ( with a sharpie ) on the round tube that the mill head slides up and down on. And 3-1/2, 5-1/2 and so on. When I am after just those it is right there and the same every time. I plan on using a ingraver to make it permanent some day... I agree it's really the only shortcoming the mill has for a amature that is !
These days I just make the best kant (get the bark off) and on my last cut that squares the log. I use a weld clamp and clamp a templet for the size boards I want to cut (made on table saw) where the tube that slides in meets the stationary tube. As I lower and hit another notch I stop and start the engine and bring up to speed to see if it holds and then cut.
Clear as mud, right?
I still make mistakes all the time but the longer I do it the faster I get.
Cheers
gww
That's a great idea for thicknesses I don't have on my scale. I'll use it on a job I have coming where the customer wants 3 or 4" thick mantles. Thx for posting.
Bob
Would you have a picture of that jig ? Thanks
The farmer
I don't right now but if I were to remember I could get one tomorrow but I can not garentee I can remember. All it is is about a two foot flat board that is about 3/8 inch thick and maby an inch wide that I cut slots in and then attach to my movable part ot he mill and just line the slots up with the unmovable part of my mill. I did not think of it but got it from the gallory pickture of another member on this forum. I would give that member credit for they ideal but for the life of me I can't remember who it was.
I will try to get a picture tomorrow but if in the morning I wake up in a new world and forget it. Please forgive me.
Good luck
gww
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39533/1026162109-00.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477534458)
I never know how good or bad my picts are going to be.
Hard to see exactly but I see what you mean. Thank you !
Ive given up on trying to use the scale on my 126 for consistent size boards, now I just count turns of the handle for any accuracy. Its fairly close to 1/4" per revolution so that fraction of overage I may have doesnt waste a lot of material. I like the idea of your jig for specific thickness cuts. A little easier than the combo square Ive used in the past. You could just leave it on the cant as you cut, transferring it for the next cut when you remove the board you just finished. Thanks for sharing.
I'm with DannyLand: I started out using the scale, then realized that one turn is about 1/4". So for my pine planks intended to be used for 3/4" flooring, I'm doing 3 1/2 turns. That gives me about 1 7/8" in thickness. I'm only planning to run one side through the planer, so 1/8" is a lot of material to be sure that I get a fully smooth side. If I find that the boards are consistent enough in thickness, then maybe I'll clean up both sides. But who cares if the bottom side is still rough-sawn?
That little two-piece jig for checking thickness is a neat idea. I'll have to make a couple of those myself for various thicknesses. Maybe even put a stepped edge on it with multiple thicknesses labelled!
Thefarmer
No garrentee but maby this is a better picture.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39533/1027160749-00.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477603463)
Good luck
gww
For framing lumber I made up a chart with the index count for 2x,4,6,8 or whatever. It makes very consistent lumber and is repeatable from one time to the next. I write common settings on the wall of the saw shed for things like sheathing or decking or stickers. Using the index wheel and sometimes the gauge blocks has given me real consistent, repeatable dimensions. Of course the shrinkage varies with grain orientation, but I don't get any more variation than I find in store-bought lumber.
Of course any method that gives you the results you're looking for is a good method. I like to add the ideas from everyone here to my tool box so I've got options.
Thank you !
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40819/IMG_2172.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477588596)
This is what I do on my Woodlands Mill
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40819/IMG_2172.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477588596)
This is what I have done with my woodlands mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40819/IMG_2172.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477588596)
Frig posting pictures from a smart phone is not the simplest thing, sorry for the mess !