Hi everyone.
New to the forum and was hoping for some thoughts or opinions for a decent firewood saw.
A little about requirements.
Types of woods: Prodominantly hardwoods. Australian hardwords, mountain ash, gums, etc...
Age of user: hitting 50 with back issues and arthritis setting in well.
Have numerous olders saws floating about but are getting to heavy to handle now.
Have been using a stihl 010 until recently for firewood and has served me well until recently.
Have a couple of stihl 009 floating about that I've been using as spare parts for the 010 as needed, one I think is near complete but unknown working order. Bed ridden at the moment so can't check @ the moment. Anyway the 009's and 010 are diffent issues to the question at hand.
I was thinking of a new firewood saw that would hopefully see me through at least 10 to 20 years of wood cutting, god willing and if my back holds up that long. Sorry I don't posses a crystal ball.
I was talking to a neighbour whom does a considerable amount of wood chop, and has highly recommended the stihl ms260c. Now I've checked the website and the latest model for this series is the ms261c-somethingorather which is fine, but in your honest opinion, whats it like for weight etc.... is it a screamer or steady as she goes. Considering I'm hitting half a century I don't really want a saw I probably wont be able to handle in 10 years time. I'm a pretty burly type of bloke and can stihl bog down a 090, but gees, shes starting to get heavy. I find the stihl 010av fairly light and ok. Just wondering what the more mature generation are using for lopping firewood, that ms261somethingorather looks like a mighty fine firewood saw, or will it become a grand and a half white elephant sitting in a corner to heavy to move about in 10 years time???.
Or is there a better lighter saw?. Please no Aldi specials, I bought one for camping a few years ago and she did well, no one was interested in walking off with her, just through her undrr the van, but when I moved up here and had to put her through the paces, she had a coronary, horses for causes I suppose.
Welcome to the FF, this is a great place to hang out. Scroll down the chainsaw forum, there have been numerous discussions that might answer most of your questions.
Quote from: Ada Shaker on September 04, 2015, 08:49:45 AMhitting 50 with back issues and arthritis setting in well.
I always wear a weightlifter's style belt when sawing.
Back problems and beginning arthritis - I'd say you should seriously consider a Stihl with their Easy2Start system. (Grampa starter)
The 261 will suit you as it sounds. Not heavy, good runner. It will pull a 18 bar good. Which, is the shortest I'd go. Gotta remember, a short bar means you got to bend over farther and more often. Good luck with your health and God Bless
If stihl is the only brand your looking at , a 261 is a good choice for a firewood saw. Holmentree spoke highly of the 241 stihl on a different thread here, it may be a better choice if your wanting a lighter saw, and it is also a pro grade saw.
Quote from: sawguy21 on September 04, 2015, 11:15:12 AM
Welcome to the FF, this is a great place to hang out. Scroll down the chainsaw forum, there have been numerous discussions that might answer most of your questions.
Thanx sawguy
Yep, spent much the whole day yesterday scrolling through, very informative and had some gr8 laughs on the way through. Sometimes I cant see the forrest for the trees, and the internet can be a little overwhelming at times, I think it should come with a good brush cutter at times so the thicket can be cleared. smiley_old_guy
Quote from: Magicman on September 04, 2015, 02:14:25 PM
Quote from: Ada Shaker on September 04, 2015, 08:49:45 AMhitting 50 with back issues and arthritis setting in well.
I always wear a weightlifter's style belt when sawing.
Thats a gr8 idea magicman.
Now I did have one of those back braces given to me by the physio, just need to remember where I put it. splitwood_smiley
Quote from: sablatnic on September 04, 2015, 02:45:24 PM
Back problems and beginning arthritis - I'd say you should seriously consider a Stihl with their Easy2Start system. (Grampa starter)
Yeh, just had a quick look at that system, not a bad system for the old timers, might even get 20 to 30 years use out of one if they worked well enough. Not to certain about the thin pull rope people are complaining about though. I know the general consensus in industry is to save a dollar on every product you make because at the end of the line a millon products equates to a million dollars and that makes the shareholder happy, but its generally at a cost to brand confidence when cutbacks like these are made to reputable branded products. The mind only boggles at where else they've cut back, one reason im a little scepticle with these modern items. Whats the go with using dental floss as a pull rope stihl?. Another issue I can envisage with this system, and it might just be an understanding of how the system operates, is that the system uses a certain amount of engine compression in order for it to be able to hold back a tension spring, and then turn over the motor once compression is overcome. That may be ok for a new motor whilst it holds good compression, but what happens to the system as the motor ages/wears and starts to loose compression. Me thinks one will probably find the motor will probably start to turn sooner up the cord, making the system less effective. Dunno, maybe a crank handle to wind up the spring and a PHD button to release the tension back into the crank may have been a better option. say_what. Wake up stihl. I do like the idea, just not totally convinced. Put a thicker pull rope or dispense of it completely, not required for clockwork springs. Just a means of winding it up, and another of releasing it when the timing is right. A battery drill might serve the same purpose.
Quote from: WV Mountaineer on September 04, 2015, 03:05:40 PM
The 261 will suit you as it sounds. Not heavy, good runner. It will pull a 18 bar good. Which, is the shortest I'd go. Gotta remember, a short bar means you got to bend over farther and more often. Good luck with your health and God Bless
Thanx mountaineer.
Yes 18 inch is the shortest id like to go, and I wouldn't want to go much bigger anyway, for that id use a bigger saw whilst I can stihl weild it, but it wouldn't to often hopefully. The only concerns I have about these new saws is
1. The metallurgical materials used in their construction, (r they made in china)
2. These modern screwless fangled carburetors.
3. The amount of solid state electronics that may be used, in particular semi-conductors.
4. These modern 4 mix stroked engines, a level of uncertainty. Do I need another fuel mix ratio can spanner thrown in the workx for good measure.
Not to certain if this is true or not (just hear say from word of mouth), but someone in the game mentioned to me that odd model numb3rd stihls were made in china and even numbered stihls were made in germany and the like. Hopefully someone out there with a little mouse can shed some light on the matter, thanx in advance. teeter_totter
Any thoughts on these new fangled chainies appreciated.
Quote from: Pine Ridge on September 04, 2015, 04:57:38 PM
If stihl is the only brand your looking at , a 261 is a good choice for a firewood saw. Holmentree spoke highly of the 241 stihl on a different thread here, it may be a better choice if your wanting a lighter saw, and it is also a pro grade saw.
Thanx pine ridge.
No I'm not really brand bias, chainsaws are a bit like cars, most are pretty good, it just comes down more to reliability coupled with spare parts and service. Like they say, when in rome do as the romans do, otherwise it can get pretty uncomfortable walking with one foot on either side of a barbed wire fence. But I'll definitely have a look at the 241 as well, thanx. hurt_smiley
Stihls easy start saws have proven them selves to me. I have as much problems from the old style as I do from the easy start. I'm not as much of a fan on the 251c version as on smaller ones. But iv found way to make it lot easier, i call it short stroking. Just pull rope about a foot and release it, when you pull it second time it snaps over very easy and you don't have pull rope out very far.
Your first three concerns are valid but that is the current reality. The solid state ignitions while not serviceable are head and shoulders ahead of the old points and condenser technology. The newer carburetors are another story. They are a pita but some scofflaws (no names mentioned) have worked around them with pleasing results. ;D There are no four mix chainsaws on the market at this time so that is not an issue.
Quote from: Texas-Jim on September 04, 2015, 09:45:19 PM
Stihls easy start saws have proven them selves to me. I have as much problems from the old style as I do from the easy start. I'm not as much of a fan on the 251c version as on smaller ones. But iv found way to make it lot easier, i call it short stroking. Just pull rope about a foot and release it, when you pull it second time it snaps over very easy and you don't have pull rope out very far.
Thanx Texas Jim
You've shed some interesting light on the short stroking scenario. It's interesting to see that these easy starts can be wound part way a number of times, (or at least twice). Just a short question if you don't mind, do you know if the motor compression is what holds back the easy start spring mechanism, or is it some internal device that triggers when the spring is fully wound?. Thanx in advance.
They are held back only by the compression.
I've seen one partly wound, and then suddenly turning over after several minutes. It didn't start - wasn't wound enough for that.
Quote from: sawguy21 on September 04, 2015, 11:13:01 PM
Your first three concerns are valid but that is the current reality. The solid state ignitions while not serviceable are head and shoulders ahead of the old points and condenser technology. The newer carburetors are another story. They are a pita but some scofflaws (no names mentioned) have worked around them with pleasing results. ;D There are no four mix chainsaws on the market at this time so that is not an issue.
Hi sawguy
The saw point i'm envisaging with these saws is the amount of electronics embedded within, not just the electronic modules. Back in the old days (not that long ago buy the way, i'm not that old yet), an electronic module consisted basically of a coil and a basic dc biased power transistor with something to trigger it at the correct moment (spark the plug basically).
What i couldn't find on the net was how much it could cost to replace the m-tronic module, carburettor , sensors, q-tronics and the like, for one of these fangled new saws. Not to sure if i have to sell one of my kidneys to get one repaired or just go without firewood if something went bung outside the warranty period?. These days with intellectual property rights, electronic modules are almost impossible to repair which is compounded by manufacturers filling up the module boards/boxes with resin. good luck trying to find out what's in them most of the time. I did find some interesting read today, sort of indirectly related to these electronic carbies/ECU's for the stihl's and probably others, these guys like to play with model aircraft, have some knowledge in electronics but like to use some big words from time to time. If your somewhat electronically minded makes a good 5 - 10 min read. Even if your not, might be a bit of an eye opener for someone thinking of purchasing a new saw. Stihl tech repairers may also find the read somewhat interesting, Dunno, maybe. It would be interesting to find out if the repairers use static wrist straps to replace boards modules (CMOS).
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2261048
Don't get me wrong, i've searched the web and they sound like gr8 saws, but there like computers, fantastic when there running well, nightmarish when they play merry hell. Compounded by the fact that electronic components don't fair too well around excessive heat and vibrations??????????? Dunno what the engineers were thinking, be a lot better if they used military grade electronic components that could handle greater variations in temperatures, but doubt it??????. Think I might wind back the search a little and look for something with a little less electronically gizmoeee, Perhaps a slightly earlier model perhaps. (Do they really have crank case sensors?)
I would dearly love some feedback from chainsaw repairers on this one. I know the chainsaws are cheaper in the US than Aust. by quite a bit but could someone please summarise what the expected repair cost for the modules/carbies/and things that go bang on these saws would be, If I were using them in business they'd just be a tax deductible expense, but no such luck for home use. I've done some searching on the net but couldn't find anything. If in $US i'll just double it cause id know id be paying double for parts, like the chainsaws.....here in Oz. ::). Your thoughts once again gr8ly appreciated.
Oh, it wasn't a four mix thingamagigie. I misread the ad and thought they used both two-stroke oil and engine oil at the same time. These new engines can be a little confusing at times or maybe its just the way there advertising them or maybe im just getting to old in my latter years.........
Thanx again for your thoughts.
I have replaced two carburettors, both of them with defective needle valves, something that can happen to any saw. Don't remember the price, so it must have been a sensible price. Haven't had any problems with the electronic / computer department of any, and don't know what it would cost.
My humble opinion is the best firewood saw for the plus 50 crowd (of which I am one) cutting wood under 20inch is a Husqvarna 555 / Jonsered 2258. Period. Set up with an 18inch bar. Strong enough to cut a larger log from time to time. Fuel efficient. Very smooth with excellent anti-vibe. Not "pro level" expensive (here in the states). Best air induction/filtration out there (as all Husqvarna/Jonsereds..being copied as time goes on) reduces maintenance. Light weight enough for the old back.. right ergo's too. Plenty of support as its a current saw. Plenty of information online as they have been out for a while. More torque than any 50cc option out there which makes life easier when cutting a variety of situations...it does. Certainly a better option than ANY 40cc option. Set up with .050 3/8 chain means any dealer any where will have chains for it. What else could a typical fire wood type want?
If you can't handle the Husqvarna/Jonsered diversity then the equivalent Stihl ..is there one? yup.. MS362
And for reference I'm late 50's and "Arthur" has really setup shop in the worst place along with some permanent damage from "mid life crisis" events where I'm missing critical wear parts from the lower extremities. We cut mostly hard wood, beech, Hard maple, oak etc. I use 7 cords typically to heat this place and have a 555 when I can have any saw on the planet. Typically it's been back up as I run current project saws but STILL is my preferred option.
leme cee from local websites
MS362 59cc, 4.7hp, 12.8lbs $730-$800 list price depending on configuration
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs, $600-$700 depending on configuration
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs, $600 list price.
Husqvarna 550XP 50.1cc, 3.75hp, 10.6lbs, $600
Hummm...on paper all look excellent.
Lots to choose from.
For "balance"
Husqvarna 562xp, 59.8cc, 4.7hp, 13.45lbs. $800... begins to push the price and weight points for me.
Quote from: sablatnic on September 05, 2015, 07:18:18 AM
I have replaced two carburettors, both of them with defective needle valves, something that can happen to any saw. Don't remember the price, so it must have been a sensible price. Haven't had any problems with the electronic / computer department of any, and don't know what it would cost.
Thanx for that, really appreciate a little feedback in that department.
Quote from: weimedog on September 05, 2015, 07:35:29 AM
My humble opinion is the best firewood saw for the plus 50 crowd (of which I am one) cutting wood under 20inch is a Husqvarna 555 / Jonsered 2258. Period. Set up with an 18inch bar. Strong enough to cut a larger log from time to time. Fuel efficient. Very smooth with excellent anti-vibe. Not "pro level" expensive (here in the states). Best air induction/filtration out there (as all Husqvarna/Jonsereds..being copied as time goes on) reduces maintenance. Light weight enough for the old back.. right ergo's too. Plenty of support as its a current saw. Plenty of information online as they have been out for a while. More torque than any 50cc option out there which makes life easier when cutting a variety of situations...it does. Certainly a better option than ANY 40cc option. Set up with .050 3/8 chain means any dealer any where will have chains for it. What else could a typical fire wood type want?
If you can't handle the Husqvarna/Jonsered diversity then the equivalent Stihl ..is there one? yup.. MS362
And for reference I'm late 50's and "Arthur" has really setup shop in the worst place along with some permanent damage from "mid life crisis" events where I'm missing critical wear parts from the lower extremities. We cut mostly hard wood, beech, Hard maple, oak etc. I use 7 cords typically to heat this place and have a 555 when I can have any saw on the planet. Typically it's been back up as I run current project saws but STILL is my preferred option.
leme cee from local websites
MS362 59cc, 4.7hp, 12.8lbs $730-$800 list price depending on configuration
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs, $600-$700 depending on configuration
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs, $600 list price.
Husqvarna 550XP 50.1cc, 3.75hp, 10.6lbs, $600
Hummm...on paper all look excellent.
Lots to choose from.
For "balance"
Husqvarna 562xp, 59.8cc, 4.7hp, 13.45lbs. $800... begins to push the price and weight points for me.
Thanx weimedog.
At the moment it's not looking brand specific, as all these modern saws seem to run on similar lines, too much electronic control.
it's not so much that electronics can't do the job, it's more a case whether it can handle it. There's no doubt electronic circuits can run chainsaw speeds of 10,000rpm, 100,000rpm or even 1,000,000rpm (if you can make one this fast), discrete electronic components can typically run within a few billionths of a second so the circuits are definitely waiting for the piston to catch up (like watching an episode of the six million dollar man for those young enough to remember it), i just don't personally have enough confidence in it all, not because it won't work, but more with issues of longevity/stability, on field running, etc..... it's not the kind of saw id like to take out on the field after an hours or so drive, and have a failure i can't circumvent on the spot. I try to carry a backup when i go out, but that ones not running at the moment and had to resort to a bigger saw for my last outing. I really don't see the sense in an electronic control circuit in a chain saw, it think it's an Achilles heel. I understand it will/could make the saw run faster, leaner, fly through wood, etc....Doesn't change that heel. Does the justification for a leaner, faster, lighter saw, etc...make that heel worth while, not IMHO. I think i'll be looking for a slightly earlier model without all the bells and whistles.....I do like the earlier electronic ignitions and that ezy start chansaw thingamaggigy, at least something came out half baked right.
I love my old Homelite XL925, you can go back to that era!.... cut a lot of wood with that old beast! Just it hurts the back a bit too much. Since almost every saw since the 1980's have some level of electronics, I think you are stuck with some level be it cdi or some other thing you can't fix on the fly...AND one generation older saws then the 555 have ignitions you might like better.... you can swap them out with a 4mm Allen and a feeler gauge! SO maybe a older design like 357XP.... carry a spare carb and ignition! Even the older points saws you would have to carry a puller for the flywheel ...as you would with a 555 to fix or swap ignitions... But I think you can over analyze this stuff really easily.
My solution. Two saws. the 555 typically is one, and a project saw the other.
I'm no mechanic. My Sthil 440 died (maybe I can find a reasonable mechanic to rebuild it cheaper than a new saw but the dealer would not) so I got a new 441. I did get the 24" bar this time and I like it as do not have to bend as much. I may hit dirt or rock more often than I did with 20" bar but I keep one of the 12 volt sharpeners in my kit and can re-sharpen a chain quickly in the field connecting it to my 4 wheeler on pick up battery). I have the Sthil sharpener but when it dies I'm going back to Oregon like I had before with the switch on the box and uses everyone's stones.
My wife has a little easy start and really likes that.
Quote from: weimedog on September 05, 2015, 11:59:17 AM
I love my old Homelite XL925, you can go back to that era!.... cut a lot of wood with that old beast! Just it hurts the back a bit too much. Since almost every saw since the 1980's have some level of electronics, I think you are stuck with some level be it cdi or some other thing you can't fix on the fly...AND one generation older saws then the 555 have ignitions you might like better.... you can swap them out with a 4mm Allen and a feeler gauge! SO maybe a older design like 357XP.... carry a spare carb and ignition! Even the older points saws you would have to carry a puller for the flywheel ...as you would with a 555 to fix or swap ignitions... But I think you can over analyze this stuff really easily.
My solution. Two saws. the 555 typically is one, and a project saw the other.
Hi weimdog
357xp sounds good albeit a little heavier, not necessarily a bad thing. electronic ignition r gr8, much better than point IMHO, and pack more punch. There are limits i'll happily accept in a chainsaw with regards to electronics, but when you start getting into microprocessor control and SMD's, I tend to back off a little.
1. All the bugs need to be ironed out first at the factory during the design stage, I'm not their guinea pig.
2. Product support is often limited to a number of years in most cases, at which time spare parts can no longer be had for items that are protected under intellectual property rights (good luck finding an electronic module in years to come). Look, i've just had a quick search on the net and stihl doesn't seem to be floated on the stock market yet so they may stihl be about maintaining reputation rather than making shareholders happy, if their kind enough they may supply sufficient electronic spare parts for many years to come, but buyer beware.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on September 05, 2015, 04:42:05 PM
I'm no mechanic. My Sthil 440 died (maybe I can find a reasonable mechanic to rebuild it cheaper than a new saw but the dealer would not) so I got a new 441. I did get the 24" bar this time and I like it as do not have to bend as much. I may hit dirt or rock more often than I did with 20" bar but I keep one of the 12 volt sharpeners in my kit and can re-sharpen a chain quickly in the field connecting it to my 4 wheeler on pick up battery). I have the Sthil sharpener but when it dies I'm going back to Oregon like I had before with the switch on the box and uses everyone's stones.
My wife has a little easy start and really likes that.
Sorry to hear that, I wonder what happened to that 440?????
Maybe if she served you well, you might consider setting aside a small plot in the garden and giving her a decent burial and all that, a nice timber slabbed headstone made from the 441 would be fitting me thinks ;D ;D
Hi,
I can only tell you good things about my old fashion Stihl MS261 I used intensively all day long every week-end last year. I tested compression and bought is used. This is a professional saw with very low maintenance and very high reliability level. All I needed to do so far is to change the spark plug, chean up the air filter, change the bar and sprocket gear. If you keep the chains sharp, this is all there is to do.
I'm 6'1" but I still prefer to keep the original 16" blade simply because it is well balanced and light. I got a 92cc saw for falling and chopping bigger logs. Most of my firewood is within 16 in. If the MS261 is you only saw, getting setup on a 18 in bar is a very good idea. If you hate sharpening blades, you may consider carbide tipped chains from Stihl. They are excellent to minimize maintenance and I do sharpen them with a dremel and a 5/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr Stone Round File. You can also touch it up with a manual diamond round file. It is not cutting as fast as a low profile cutting chain, but it does remain sharp for a very very long time.
As for the suggestion from weimedog, I would simply say you have plenty of power with the lighter MS261 on any hardwood. Mine is a plain MS261, with mechanical carb, not the latest electronic adjusted carb. The electronic control over the carb is to safe on fuel and optimize power. In both cases, if you only use premium gas without ethanol and good quality oil at the recommended 50:1 mix, you are unlikely to have problems. The Huskvana 555 has the SAME electronic optimization for fuel economy and performance as the MS251c. If electronic controlled saw makes you feel bad, you may check of a used older pro saw like mine.
If you use regular gas with ethanol, or forget to drain your carb whenver you chainsaw is unused for a few months, ANY brand of ANY model will run poorly, fail to start and end up at the repair shop. Again, MS261 is a professional level saw, designed to run all day long. I don't know about Husky 555, but specs of Husqvarna 545 appear to be the closest competitor of the MS261c.
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs,
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs
Husqvarna 545 50.01cc 3.35HP, 10.8lbs
I'll be 64 in a few months and my MS261 is what I use most of the time. Like lamimartin mine is pre electronic carb and I like the 16" bar, it just feels good and when I get into something big I still have my 044 with a 20 or 24" bar. One of these days I might look at a 241 but the 261 still feels good.
Husqvarna 550 xp is listed as 50.1cc, weighs 10.8 lbs, and 3.75 hp. I have one with a 16" bar, has impressed me so far, runs and handles great.
Quote from: lamimartin on September 05, 2015, 08:46:18 PM
Hi,
I can only tell you good things about my old fashion Stihl MS261 I used intensively all day long every week-end last year. I tested compression and bought is used. This is a professional saw with very low maintenance and very high reliability level. All I needed to do so far is to change the spark plug, chean up the air filter, change the bar and sprocket gear. If you keep the chains sharp, this is all there is to do.
I'm 6'1" but I still prefer to keep the original 16" blade simply because it is well balanced and light. I got a 92cc saw for falling and chopping bigger logs. Most of my firewood is within 16 in. If the MS261 is you only saw, getting setup on a 18 in bar is a very good idea. If you hate sharpening blades, you may consider carbide tipped chains from Stihl. They are excellent to minimize maintenance and I do sharpen them with a dremel and a 5/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr Stone Round File. You can also touch it up with a manual diamond round file. It is not cutting as fast as a low profile cutting chain, but it does remain sharp for a very very long time.
As for the suggestion from weimedog, I would simply say you have plenty of power with the lighter MS261 on any hardwood. Mine is a plain MS261, with mechanical carb, not the latest electronic adjusted carb. The electronic control over the carb is to safe on fuel and optimize power. In both cases, if you only use premium gas without ethanol and good quality oil at the recommended 50:1 mix, you are unlikely to have problems. The Huskvana 555 has the SAME electronic optimization for fuel economy and performance as the MS251c. If electronic controlled saw makes you feel bad, you may check of a used older pro saw like mine.
If you use regular gas with ethanol, or forget to drain your carb whenver you chainsaw is unused for a few months, ANY brand of ANY model will run poorly, fail to start and end up at the repair shop. Again, MS261 is a professional level saw, designed to run all day long. I don't know about Husky 555, but specs of Husqvarna 545 appear to be the closest competitor of the MS261c.
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs,
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs
Husqvarna 545 50.01cc 3.35HP, 10.8lbs
Thanx Lamimartin.
Those were pretty much my thoughts, A neighbour of mine highly recommended the ms261c and that would be the non electronic version. I was hoping to buy a new one but it's replacement is the ms261 q-tronic gimatigadgatry. ::) Suppose not my cup of tea. Was all exited about it when i started reading all the performance reviews, but alas, it is an expensive saw if parts aren't available for them in years to come. I've known business people to have purchased expensive office equipment (in the range of 12 grand) and then support for those products stops after a few years. Suppliers excuse "Oh we don't support that product any more, it's too old", mind you might only be 4 or 5 years down the track. Now that's gotta hurt. CDI's aren't really an intellectual property issue, there's plenty around they're just basically discharging a coil, LC circuit, capacitor gets fully charged and then a trigger circuit discharges the cap into an ignition coil which produces a spark at the plug. I can live with this level of robustness, in fact, i love it, it's the next best thing to sliced bread. What i can't live with these days a SMD boards that are microprocessor controlled, are perhaps quite expensive for what they are :-\ to replace, and if product support stops, there may not be any third party that makes them, Dunno, but not worth the chance. If someone asked me the question "would you get married if the likelihood of divorce within 7 years time was greater than 80%" :-\, would you get married today?. Now if i was to say to you that the industry standard life expectancy for semi-conductor devices was 7 years on average, would you marry your chainsaw. :D.
Yep I'll be looking really closely at the ms 261 c as suggested, many thanx.
Sorry to hear that, I wonder what happened to that 440?????
Maybe if she served you well, you might consider setting aside a small plot in the garden and giving her a decent burial and all that, a nice timber slabbed headstone made from the 441 would be fitting me thinks ;D ;D
[/quote]
Apparently the piston is scored. Don't know why as always real diligent about running good oil mixture but that is what he said. Doubt she will get a decent burial. Keep her around for any parts I may can salvage to fit the 441 then one day what is left will be sent to the big scrapyard in the sky (actually 10 miles up the road) to be reincarnated.
Quote from: Pine Ridge on September 05, 2015, 10:33:11 PM
Husqvarna 550 xp is listed as 50.1cc, weighs 10.8 lbs, and 3.75 hp. I have one with a 16" bar, has impressed me so far, runs and handles great.
Thanx, I've been looking at the husky's
Quote from: lamimartin on September 05, 2015, 08:46:18 PM
As for the suggestion from weimedog, I would simply say you have plenty of power with the lighter MS261 on any hardwood. Mine is a plain MS261, with mechanical carb, not the latest electronic adjusted carb. The electronic control over the carb is to safe on fuel and optimize power. In both cases, if you only use premium gas without ethanol and good quality oil at the recommended 50:1 mix, you are unlikely to have problems. The Huskvana 555 has the SAME electronic optimization for fuel economy and performance as the MS251c. If electronic controlled saw makes you feel bad, you may check of a used older pro saw like mine.
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs,
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs
Husqvarna 545 50.01cc 3.35HP, 10.8lbs
True.. and one of the main differences between the "pro level" Husqi 562xp is that ignition (And large mount vs. small mount bar), the 562 with an "rev-boost" feature. Interesting though as in other motorsports the major players end up gravitating to the same suppliers. In some regards Stihl's look more and more like Husqvarna's every year with the new offerings. Form the spring anti vibes on the 661 to ignitions. Hopefully price over time.. :)
As I posted before... "bang per buck" it's tough to beat that 555. You also feel the difference in torque if those saws are fed a diet of hardwoods too. Where I work we have five 550xp's. And of course I have my 555 so something I live vs. theorize. Oregon LGX and 18 inch "Husqvarna" branded Oregon bars on both too BTW. Also none of the 6 saws mentioned have had any failures so I haven't had to test the field repair concept yet.
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs, $600-$700 depending on configuration
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4.3hp, 12.38lbs, $600 list price.
Husqvarna 550XP 50.1cc, 3.75hp, 10.6lbs, $600
You know .. I've posted and said it a thousand times. Between these two brands and throw in Echo, Jonsered, and Dolmar; ALL make some great saws in their product lines. The deciding factor should be Dealer support even over a nuance in specifications and price. Dealer along with which one YOU happen to take a liking too. No one "online" can really define that for you. Ultimately it's stop analyzing and get trying then buying one. Especially if the logs are waiting for a decision...time stops for no man and the seasons are changing! The money isn't so huge that a second saw might augment the first over time as experience moves you one direction or another. For me I had the most fun building and running my Junk Pile "Chicken Chit to Chicken Soup" saws, especially the 372 based ones;...of course with a trusty backup.. now the 555.
That marriage analogy is funny BTW.... sometime change is a good thing! But it seems like in your case the "Hunt" is more fun than the kill! You might end up with several marriages! And that can get expensive...trust me on that one point!
Biggest risk?? You end up like some of us who take time trying to figure out which one to take off the shelf for a days work...and the wife making cracks like..."Gee Honey, your saws are having babies!"
(Or with the 40cc versions... Gee Honey .. That looks sort of like a saw ...only smaller!)
Quote from: weimedog on September 05, 2015, 07:35:29 AM
MS362 59cc, 4.7hp, 12.8lbs $730-$800 list price depending on configuration
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs, $600-$700 depending on configuration
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs, $600 list price.
Husqvarna 550XP 50.1cc, 3.75hp, 10.6lbs, $600
Husqvarna 562xp, 59.8cc, 4.7hp, 13.45lbs. $800... begins to push the price and weight points for me.
Weimedog - are those actual measured weights, or are they specs? I ask because the spec on the 562XP is 13.01 lbs, not 13.45. The others listed are all closer to the spec weight.
I agree, the 555 is a nice saw. When my 357XP goes, the 555 will probably replace it.
I always say that firewood all looks the same once it's split and stacked, but the starting point is what often matters in saw selection. I have a couple face cord racks on my back deck right now. It just looks like plain old "firewood". But some of that wood is from tops that were cut with a little 543XP and some of it is from a 34" ash that was cut with a big 2100CD.
Think you have to try and put yourself in the OP's shoes in order to answer questions like this one. The OP has been doing fine cutting his wood with those small 010/009 stihls, so it doesn't sound to me like he needs a bigger saw, and he says that weight is an issue. Going from those little stihls to a 555/ms362 size saw is probably more of a jump that he's looking to make. I think a nice 50cc class saw is as big as he ought to consider.
Quote from: John Mc on September 06, 2015, 08:34:57 AM
Quote from: weimedog on September 05, 2015, 07:35:29 AM
MS362 59cc, 4.7hp, 12.8lbs $730-$800 list price depending on configuration
MS261 50.5cc, 3.9hp, 11.6lbs, $600-$700 depending on configuration
Husqvarna 555 59.8cc, 4,3hp, 12.38lbs, $600 list price.
Husqvarna 550XP 50.1cc, 3.75hp, 10.6lbs, $600
Husqvarna 562xp, 59.8cc, 4.7hp, 13.45lbs. $800... begins to push the price and weight points for me.
Weimedog - are those actual measured weights, or are they specs? I ask because the spec on the 562XP is 13.01 lbs, not 13.45. The others listed are all closer to the spec weight.
I agree, the 555 is a nice saw. When my 357XP goes, the 555 will probably replace it.
Specs off the Husqvarna website. Also the typical "out the door" price varies as some dealers discount those saws quite a bit from the list price. Not unusual to see a 555 go for 555!
Quote from: Spike60 on September 06, 2015, 09:13:35 AM
I always say that firewood all looks the same once it's split and stacked, but the starting point is what often matters in saw selection. I have a couple face cord racks on my back deck right now. It just looks like plain old "firewood". But some of that wood is from tops that were cut with a little 543XP and some of it is from a 34" ash that was cut with a big 2100CD.
Think you have to try and put yourself in the OP's shoes in order to answer questions like this one. The OP has been doing fine cutting his wood with those small 010/009 stihls, so it doesn't sound to me like he needs a bigger saw, and he says that weight is an issue. Going from those little stihls to a 555/ms362 size saw is probably more of a jump that he's looking to make. I think a nice 50cc class saw is as big as he ought to consider.
This is funny. There IS a little history behind a conversation that sounds an awful lot like this.. BUT as usual Spike60 is usually spot on when it comes to understanding those looking for new saws.. Of course I just voiced my heart felt opinion on what the best Firewood saw is..for me. Maybe a Jonsered 2260 would bump it price not an issue. The best (in my mind) of the 555 and 562xp in one saw! Looks better too!
For you Husqvarna types...From a video done couple of years back, so many have seen it but apropos now(therefore old out dated price data)...I think 2013. From minute 3:40 to minute 9:48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-igYxHhnos
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on September 06, 2015, 06:33:03 AM
Sorry to hear that, I wonder what happened to that 440?????
Maybe if she served you well, you might consider setting aside a small plot in the garden and giving her a decent burial and all that, a nice timber slabbed headstone made from the 441 would be fitting me thinks ;D ;D
Apparently the piston is scored. Don't know why as always real diligent about running good oil mixture but that is what he said. Doubt she will get a decent burial. Keep her around for any parts I may can salvage to fit the 441 then one day what is left will be sent to the big scrapyard in the sky (actually 10 miles up the road) to be reincarnated.
[/quote]
Shame,
I'm not too versed in small motor rebuilds, but can they be re-board/reamed/re-lined/sleeved to some extent to be brought back into service. I've delved in automotive and locomotive engines before but not little two-strokers, are their limitations to material removal, wall thickness, coatings or something else?. I know pistons can be replaced so i'd assume your referring to the bore.
Piston and Cylinder can be swapped out if they can't be saved.
If your oil/fuel mix was good, it could have gotten scored from running too lean (either a carb problem, or an air leak somewhere - you'd want to fix that before firing up a new cylinder and piston)
Quote from: Spike60 on September 06, 2015, 09:13:35 AM
I always say that firewood all looks the same once it's split and stacked, but the starting point is what often matters in saw selection. I have a couple face cord racks on my back deck right now. It just looks like plain old "firewood". But some of that wood is from tops that were cut with a little 543XP and some of it is from a 34" ash that was cut with a big 2100CD.
Think you have to try and put yourself in the OP's shoes in order to answer questions like this one. The OP has been doing fine cutting his wood with those small 010/009 stihls, so it doesn't sound to me like he needs a bigger saw, and he says that weight is an issue. Going from those little stihls to a 555/ms362 size saw is probably more of a jump that he's looking to make. I think a nice 50cc class saw is as big as he ought to consider.
You've pretty much hit the nail on the head there Spike.
Weight in a saw as i'm getting older is a serious factor which is coupled with back issues, most likely will worsen over time. I need to work smarter not harder. I have quite a number of saws floating around from 36cc to 137cc. Most are older saws, ones a bit of a bull dog with gear reduction which a like but darn heavy again. The 010 was ok, nice and light, limited to small stuff though, takes too long to get through some decent redgum which i get from time to time. Good all-nighters those sticks. Something a little gutsy and lightweight. around 50cc/5kg, and the ms 260/261 <c> earlier versions sounds like its right up my alley.
WV Sawmiller a piston scoring doesnt imply you were lacking in any way. Its possible it was user error but are a ton of things that can cause it. I had a ms 271 in shop few days ago, was only a week old but owner ran straight gas. Needless say it didnt last long. He was rather ticked at me because I wouldnt warranty it.
I dont know about other mechanics here but 95% of all my repairs are fuel related. We as consumers cant always control the quality of fuel.
Quote from: weimedog on September 06, 2015, 09:46:51 AM
This is funny. There IS a little history behind a conversation that sounds an awful lot like this.. BUT as usual Spike60 is usually spot on when it comes to understanding those looking for new saws.. Of course I just voiced my heart felt opinion on what the best Firewood saw is..for me. Maybe a Jonsered 2260 would bump it price not an issue. The best (in my mind) of the 555 and 562xp in one saw! Looks better too!
Well for us, the 2260/555/562 would be the ideal firewood saw. Along with some examples of earlier series; 257/262, 2156/357. Power enough for bigger wood, light enough for tops. Saws like these cover more of the bases for what we cut than either 50 or 70 cc saws can do alone.
But we are as usual looking at it all through the microscope. Is a 372 with 18" bar really
that much heavier than any of those saws? Won't a 346 or a 55 cut a 16" log? I bring this up, cause out there in the real world, most firewood is NOT cut with an "ideal firewood saw". People just run what they have. If it starts and has a sharp chain, it's gonna "put wood in the truck" as I always say. All kinds of saws; large and small, new and old are out there gettin it done.
And it's important to keep that in mind when we have these "what saw should I get" threads. Because we post all these opinions about what someone ought to buy, and the OP is often burried with more advice than he needs. And people are left thinking "Oh my God, what if I buy the WRONG saw? I won't be able to cut my wood and the family will freeze!" It's not that big a deal. There's a lot of wood being cut with the "wrong" saw every day. :)
Quote from: Spike60 on September 07, 2015, 07:24:20 AM
And it's important to keep that in mind when we have these "what saw should I get" threads. Because we post all these opinions about what someone ought to buy, and the OP is often burried with more advice than he needs. And people are left thinking "Oh my God, what if I buy the WRONG saw? I won't be able to cut my wood and the family will freeze!" It's not that big a deal. There's a lot of wood being cut with the "wrong" saw every day. :)
Amen!
I have two saws at the moment - A Stihl MS361 and a Dolmar PS-421. The Dolmar is my go-to saw for about 75% of my firewood cutting, especially logs under a foot in diameter. Larger stuff I use the Stihl. I have a 16" bar with an 8-pin rim sprocket for the Stihl, also have a 24" bar /7-pin combo for larger wood. I cut and burn around 8-10 cords a year, not sure of the exact amount. I don't keep track.
If I had to buy a brand new saw today and have it be my only firewood saw, I would be hard-pressed to choose. There's a lot of decent saws out there. However, my short list would include Dolmar PS-5105 or PS-6100, Stihl MS-362, or Echo CS-590. Any of them can handle a 20" or larger bar and do well for any reasonable amount of firewood in a year.
Quote from: Engineer on September 07, 2015, 04:25:54 PM
I have two saws at the moment - A Stihl MS361 and a Dolmar PS-421. The Dolmar is my go-to saw for about 75% of my firewood cutting, especially logs under a foot in diameter. Larger stuff I use the Stihl. I have a 16" bar with an 8-pin rim sprocket for the Stihl, also have a 24" bar /7-pin combo for larger wood. I cut and burn around 8-10 cords a year, not sure of the exact amount. I don't keep track.
If I had to buy a brand new saw today and have it be my only firewood saw, I would be hard-pressed to choose. There's a lot of decent saws out there. However, my short list would include Dolmar PS-5105 or PS-6100, Stihl MS-362, or Echo CS-590. Any of them can handle a 20" or larger bar and do well for any reasonable amount of firewood in a year.
Your only 45 and wimping down to a 40cc saw already, it took me until about 48 or so to get smart. I run a Echo Cs400 around the mill that's cuts faster than some of the 50cc saws, I don't own one but the Dolmar PS421 sounds like a great saw also. For the OP I'd get a CS400 new off fleebay for a bit over $200 , muff modd and tune it and then decide if I needed more saw.. Steve
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on September 06, 2015, 06:33:03 AM
Sorry to hear that, I wonder what happened to that 440?????
Maybe if she served you well, you might consider setting aside a small plot in the garden and giving her a decent burial and all that, a nice timber slabbed headstone made from the 441 would be fitting me thinks ;D ;D
Apparently the piston is scored. Don't know why as always real diligent about running good oil mixture but that is what he said. Doubt she will get a decent burial. Keep her around for any parts I may can salvage to fit the 441 then one day what is left will be sent to the big scrapyard in the sky (actually 10 miles up the road) to be reincarnated.
[/quote]
I found out with bud's 441cm that you want to be REAL careful with that saw. It sucked in a metallic bit from the muffler, which trashed p&c. I got volunteered to fix it, since dealer wouldn't help with warranty or repair. Got a manual & IPL, which just sucked me in.
Never again. That saw is a total nightmare to do a r&r cylinder. Beyond stupidly over-complicated. Makes me call into question the sanity of their designs, and really love my 576 AT Husqy, which will out-perform it too. (Did so at a GTG.) That Husqy is "approachable" for repair, should that ever become necessary. Oh yeah, the Husqy went for ~$200 less- almost forgot.
Almost precisely equal weight.
I'd be "running scared" running a 441. Honest.
At least some stihl parts prices are becoming rational. We'll have to wait on the rest.
Thanx CTYank
Yeh, I've taken into account the repair side of these new saws, most seem to be heading down that path, cars are pretty much the same. With intellectual property rights that these companies hold over 3rd party suppliers the mind only boggles. Chainsaws are a pretty easy fix, just more electronic stuff that can go awall. The repair concept is more or less the same, just wont be able to fit your fingers anywhere, (a bit like modern cars).
Anyway, on a different note, finally did my tax return and the tax man was so kind that he told me i could go out a buy a new chainsaw.
I was finally tossing between the 261 and 362 @ an extra pound or so heavier, no big deal, and an extra horse in pocket. Figured I can handle this saw at the moment, and might consider re-dressing the weight issue when i get to sixty or the need be. Might be i may need an even smaller saw than the 261 when the time arrives, (just picturing myself @ 90 running a battery operated saw or something). Only time will tell.
So the ms 362 c it is, was with all the bells and whistles. I started it up at the dealership and she seems to hunt around at full throttle as if she were looking for something. When i put the scabbard back on she bit me and drew blood. Told the salesmen it was a good sign and that she liked me. He just laughed and asked how did i figure, Told him i turned her on full throttle and didn't give her anything to eat. It was just a nip as a precautionary warning, never turn on a wild beast and give it nothing to eat, it might come back to bite you on the backside. Anything else i need to know about these new saws?. Thanx in advance everyone for your replies.
For what's it worth, I'm a newbie woodburner just getting into this and I own the following saws:
1. Echo CS300 with a 14" bar low profile 3/8" pitch. I bought it approximately 10 years ago for limbing and treestand prep. (I love to hunt).
2. Stihl MS251C WoodBoss. This is my first "real" saw that I owned. Got it for Christmas last year as I declared we were going to wood heat because our electric heat bills over the last two years shot through the roof.
3. Stihl MS362CM. I picked this up after a summer and fall of cutting with the MS251C to address larger trees and to have a prograde saw I can rely on day in and out. This saw is much heavier but I haven't been really able to use it appreciably at all because It has been at the shop for over a week because it doesn't want to run.
4. Homelite 8800 I picked up at a yard sale for nominal money. I'm in the process of cleaning it up and I ordered a new sprocket for it and some gas and oil cap gaskets. Otherwise this thing started right up. Its heavy but only has a 16" bar and I'm contemplating continuing to use that bar size with to see how it goes.
My amature newbie assessment thusly is that my MS251C has been excellent so far and is light and a great runner. I truly enjoy running this saw. In retrospect, and if lightness is a big concern for you, I would go with the MS261 or the MS241. Take the opinions of the guys that use these everyday.
Quote from: woodsdog2015 on October 25, 2015, 07:48:23 AM
For what's it worth, I'm a newbie woodburner just getting into this and I own the following saws:
1. Echo CS300 with a 14" bar low profile 3/8" pitch. I bought it approximately 10 years ago for limbing and treestand prep. (I love to hunt).
2. Stihl MS251C WoodBoss. This is my first "real" saw that I owned. Got it for Christmas last year as I declared we were going to wood heat because our electric heat bills over the last two years shot through the roof.
3. Stihl MS362CM. I picked this up after a summer and fall of cutting with the MS251C to address larger trees and to have a prograde saw I can rely on day in and out. This saw is much heavier but I haven't been really able to use it appreciably at all because It has been at the shop for over a week because it doesn't want to run.
4. Homelite 8800 I picked up at a yard sale for nominal money. I'm in the process of cleaning it up and I ordered a new sprocket for it and some gas and oil cap gaskets. Otherwise this thing started right up. Its heavy but only has a 16" bar and I'm contemplating continuing to use that bar size with to see how it goes.
My amature newbie assessment thusly is that my MS251C has been excellent so far and is light and a great runner. I truly enjoy running this saw. In retrospect, and if lightness is a big concern for you, I would go with the MS261 or the MS241. Take the opinions of the guys that use these everyday.
Yeh I know, I was originally looking at the 261, but a couple of the guys recommended the 362 as it better sized saw for fire wood, based on feedback from other users. Both or should I saw one was an ex-stihl rep whom still repairs them and the other the stihl salesman further down the hill. Both came up with the same analogy. The 261 is a great saw, just doesn't cut it for larger wood here in the Aussie outback. We can get some pretty decent sized hardwood when we go walk-about, hence the 362 is regarded as a better firewood saw here, suppose it depends on what your likely going to cut. I still have the 090 for lager wood, and a few others, one with a gear reduction chain drive which sounds like a bulldog, but their all still getting heavier as i get older. Figured i'd try and get a 009 set up for running rampart but it just dies as soon as i put it in some wood. Might need some the rings or something, don't know just yet but i'll try and get one up and running for the small stuff and camping.
Quote from: Ada Shaker on October 24, 2015, 10:11:56 PM
(...)
I was finally tossing between the 261 and 362 @ an extra pound or so heavier, no big deal, and an extra horse in pocket. Figured I can handle this saw at the moment, and might consider re-dressing the weight issue when i get to sixty or the need be. Might be i may need an even smaller saw than the 261 when the time arrives, (just picturing myself @ 90 running a battery operated saw or something). Only time will tell.
So the ms 362 c it is, was with all the bells and whistles. (...)
Excellent choice, especially if it is your only saw and have the money for a new one.
With a new saw, make sure you follow the break-in recommendations... it will last much longer !
For weight reduction, you can always keep the bar short, and make it longer only if you really need it.
No question, you are Stihl a sharp guy ! :D
Quote from: lamimartin on November 01, 2015, 07:35:18 AM
Quote from: Ada Shaker on October 24, 2015, 10:11:56 PM
(...)
I was finally tossing between the 261 and 362 @ an extra pound or so heavier, no big deal, and an extra horse in pocket. Figured I can handle this saw at the moment, and might consider re-dressing the weight issue when i get to sixty or the need be. Might be i may need an even smaller saw than the 261 when the time arrives, (just picturing myself @ 90 running a battery operated saw or something). Only time will tell.
So the ms 362 c it is, was with all the bells and whistles. (...)
Excellent choice, especially if it is your only saw and have the money for a new one.
With a new saw, make sure you follow the break-in recommendations... it will last much longer !
For weight reduction, you can always keep the bar short, and make it longer only if you really need it.
No question, you are Stihl a sharp guy ! :D
Funny that, I wasn't advised about any break-in periods. Can someone advise what the break-in procedure/period is, also any other requirements that might be necessary for these saws?. The whacko salesman down the hill just suggested running it like no tomorrow, I'm yet to feed her anything, she might be a bit hungry..... I hear you about the shorter bar, she came with a 20" bar and bra and is a little forward tilting/heavy, She could do with a reduction of a couple of cup sizes so she can stand up straight, probably do my back a world of good also.
Seems in some recent thread(s) that the consensus and interpretation of the operator's manual, was to not run wide open throttle unless buried in wood. At least for the first two tanks of fuel.
But that less than WOT in wood wasn't recommended.
The computer in it will make the right adjustments needed if this is done. That is what has worked well with my MS362.
I like it a lot. And have no problem with the 20" bar. Don't find it nose heavy at all.
Quote from: beenthere on November 01, 2015, 06:59:48 PM
Seems in some recent thread(s) that the consensus and interpretation of the operator's manual, was to not run wide open throttle unless buried in wood. At least for the first two tanks of fuel.
But that less than WOT in wood wasn't recommended.
The computer in it will make the right adjustments needed if this is done. That is what has worked well with my MS362.
I like it a lot. And have no problem with the 20" bar. Don't find it nose heavy at all.
Thanx for the I/P beenthere. Yep, sounds a bit like my car, only a two speed, (idle & wot). I'll try and bury her in some red gum or iron bark for it's christening/baptism/maiden voyage...etc, (the chainsaw not the car). Then I'll name her, don't quite know what to call a red head that likes to bark'n'bite, but I'll work it out when I get there. Any ideas/suggestions from anyone for a suitable name; not "Lucille Ball", I can see a comedy of errors on this one, but I do like plain and simplicity of "Lucille"or "Lucy". Any other suggestions?. Everyone's got to Luv Lucy.
Well if your going to name it after a redhead, you could just quote Al Bundy when things aren't going good, " aaahhh peg " !
Quote from: Pine Ridge on November 01, 2015, 10:00:14 PM
Well if your going to name it after a redhead, you could just quote Al Bundy when things aren't going good, " aaahhh peg " !
That one I like even more
Quote from: Ada Shaker on November 01, 2015, 09:35:54 PM
Then I'll name her, don't quite know what to call a red head that likes to bark'n'bite
Maybe you should call it a wife.
Quote from: John Mc on November 02, 2015, 08:57:09 AM
Quote from: Ada Shaker on November 01, 2015, 09:35:54 PM
Then I'll name her, don't quite know what to call a red head that likes to bark'n'bite
Maybe you should call it a wife.
Do you mean when I'm angry at the first wife, I should take the second wife out; and go cut some firewood?.LOL. Not bad anger management idea, GO Cut Ten Chords Of Wood!!! Forget the push-up's :D.
Let's just hope the first wife doesn't find out about the second wife, or the second wife never meats the first wife :-\. In that case I might have to call her Christine (after the 58 Plymouth Fury) :D :D :D.
I mean, the second wife looks very sexy when she goes topless and just lets it all hang out. :o
Quote from: beenthere on November 01, 2015, 06:59:48 PM
Seems in some recent thread(s) that the consensus and interpretation of the operator's manual, was to not run wide open throttle unless buried in wood. At least for the first two tanks of fuel.
But that less than WOT in wood wasn't recommended.
The computer in it will make the right adjustments needed if this is done. That is what has worked well with my MS362.
I like it a lot. And have no problem with the 20" bar. Don't find it nose heavy at all.
Beenthere, what happens if you run the Mtronic NOT WOT all the time while in wood???? Is there problems that you've had in your experience. Cut a three nice logs this weekend within an hour with my MS362CM now that itw working great. Really like this saw a lot. There were a few times I didn't gun it in the wood as I thought it had to break in but then I remembered that as long as it was in wood it was ok to run it WOT. What if a user is somewhat inconsistent with this does it botch up the computer or something???? Ugh.. so much to remember I just want to cut wood.
QuoteBeenthere, what happens if you run the Mtronic NOT WOT all the time while in wood???? Is there problems that you've had in your experience.
Don't know the answer, as I run WOT when sawing wood. Best that I recollect anyway.
I suspect the "computer" (whatever it be) adjusts to a condition that is believed to be WOT in wood, and after a few times whatever happened prior, will be corrected. Be my best guess anyway.
Quote from: Ada Shaker on November 01, 2015, 04:17:54 PM
Funny that, I wasn't advised about any break-in periods. Can someone advise what the break-in procedure/period is, also any other requirements that might be necessary for these saws?
The MS362 manual says:
A factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first three tank fillings. This avoids
unnecessarily high loads during the break-in period. As all moving parts have to bed in during the break-in period, the frictional resistances in the shortblock are greater during this period. The engine develops its maximum power after about 5 to 15 tank fillings. Keep in mind that WOT off load for significant periods is rarely a good idea, but computerized carb adjustments prevent running too lean or too rich, so risk to rev too fast after break in is minimal.
As you noticed, you only need to resist the temptation to try it at WOT when OFF LOAD. Naturally, you keep working at WOT in normal operation. You should also resist challenging another saw up until your new one has reached its full power after 5-15 tanks. That's it for break-in precautions.
That's good information lamimartin you explained it very well.
Like my Husqvarna AutoTunes the manual explains WOT "In Large Wood Only" for 5 minutes of steady cutting to preset the micro processor.
It's tells me the factory has machined and run in these powerheads to be partially broke in.
Much different then the older generation of saws as longer breaking in times were needed.