Hello everyone! I have a very specific problem that needs addressing, and I'm hoping I can get some knowledge here from you fine folks!
I'm moving to Alaska next year, to a very, very remote location and I'm planning on purchasing a very high end saw for obvious reasons. I plan on learning how to do my own maintenance, and probably move out with a few parts that have a reputation for breakage, if any.
I'm looking at what what seems to be mostly white and black spruce, I understand this is a soft wood? I'll need to mill enough for a rather large cabin, maybe a barn, etc. The most important thing for me is durability! Even if the saw takes a little longer to mill or fell trees for trail cutting or firewood.
I'm prepared to spend quite a bit of money, I've been hearing a lot about the Husqvarna 3120 and the Stihl 880, but I'm not sure I need that much power for white spruce? The largest diameter tree out there is probably no bigger than 24" wide, so should I consider a 395xp or ms 461, etc? I don't mind spending money, I just want durability, a good product that I won't burn out milling, and once I'm done with the cabin will last a long time.
Thank you!
Arnold
All I can say is WOW. I have never understood chainsaw milling but in a case like yours it might be a necessity. I will let someone experienced answer your question. Good Luck
If you can find a new Stihl 660, they are renoun for durability. The newer 661s haven't been out long enough to be proven. If you do find a 660, first thing take off that restrictive muffler and re-tune it. The 461 is plenty of saw to power through 24" spruce. It is not much different from the 460, which is another saw that is tried and true. Are you only going to have one saw for out in the bush, or one saw for milling, and one saw for other stuff. If you are only bringing one saw, definitely 461 I would have to say. Reason being, it's the smallest saw that I would run on the CSM, and not too big for many smaller tasks.
Chainsaw milling (CSM) is very hard on any saw. Make sure you keep it tuned a bit fat, and let it idle down about 30 seconds - a minute or so after long cuts to help it cool down. Of the things that you should bring extra- rim sprocket, spark plug, air filter, clutch cover nuts, fuel filter, bar, chains, files, etc. If you elaborate on what you're doing, it might help us better help you.
The 395xp is said to be a pretty good all around saw, too. I own two Husqvarnas (both bought new, 346xp and 372xp) and over 8 Stihls (some were bought new, most used, and some antiques). I will tell you that I spend more time trying to start the Huskys than anything. But the Husky crowd sure seems to like their 395s. They do rip. Now I understand you're gonna be way out in the bush. Is there any dealers anywhere around or are you just gonna be way the heck out there?
My 395XP and 090 are all I need for what little milling I do.
But I suggest for your ammont of milling decide between the 3120XP or MS880
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20140208_142900.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20140211_152914.jpg)
I use either an 084 or an 090 for everything I do milling-wise, which isn't much. I use bars from 36" to 60" with a ripping chain.
For the volume of wood you plan to mill, I would encourage you to look at a portable band saw mill. One can be got for $2,000 through Harbor freight & the price goes up from there There are several options available. Check out "Sawmills and Milling" section in this forum. The folks have a lot of great experience & are very helpful.
They are faster & for your purpose, I believe it will be more economical. You can take on custom sawing for others if time permits.
Thank you for the replies everyone!
As far as what exactly I'm doing, I guess the most simple way to put it, is living out in the bush, trapping for the occasional govt scraps. For quite awhile now I've wanted to experience this kind of lifestyle, I want to experience life in its purest form, devoid of so much of the nonsense that comes with modern day life.
I should probably clarify that I'm not planning on milling everything for the cabin as it will be built as an old time log cabin, but I do need to mill out the floor boards, doors, etc as it will be a raised foundation.
I'll be too far out to rely on a service tech, however Fairbanks does have both a Stihl and Husky service techs if need be when I do get around to town.
Use for the saw other than milling:
Felling trees, possibly firewood, but for gas concerns the ol' axe might have to become my best friend between getting a supply charter and such.
Cutting the occasional trail.
I don't foresee much more use for the saw out there, but that doesn't mean I won't find one in a moment of epiphany
Quote from: 4x4American on September 14, 2015, 07:35:05 PM
If you can find a new Stihl 660, they are renoun for durability. The newer 661s haven't been out long enough to be proven. If you do find a 660, first thing take off that restrictive muffler and re-tune it. The 461 is plenty of saw to power through 24" spruce. It is not much different from the 460, which is another saw that is tried and true. Are you only going to have one saw for out in the bush, or one saw for milling, and one saw for other stuff. If you are only bringing one saw, definitely 461 I would have to say. Reason being, it's the smallest saw that I would run on the CSM, and not too big for many smaller tasks.
Chainsaw milling (CSM) is very hard on any saw. Make sure you keep it tuned a bit fat, and let it idle down about 30 seconds - a minute or so after long cuts to help it cool down. Of the things that you should bring extra- rim sprocket, spark plug, air filter, clutch cover nuts, fuel filter, bar, chains, files, etc. If you elaborate on what you're doing, it might help us better help you.
I'll definitely get those parts, thank you!
When you say tuned a bit fat what do you mean? More oil in the mixture?
Yes, I'll only have one saw, it's a freight limitation thing for the plane, there are other things that I will need, clothing, guns, etc.
I've used my 066 and my 461 for my csm. They both work. I wouldn't want to be lugging an 088 or 3120 around in the woods trying to clear trail or cut firewood I can tell ya that much right now. I have also heard that the big dogs (880/3120) don't hold up to milling so well. That's just what I've heard, not from my experience. If I were you, I'd bring two saws capable of running a CSM, one big one, and one 70cc saw. That way if your big saw breaks down, you aren't stuck in the mud, plus, when it comes to doing firewood/trail work, you aren't slinging a 120cc saw around. Work smarter, not harder, we have the technology.
arnoldr45, you sound a lot like me as I'm enjoying the wilderness an solitude here in Thompson, Manitoba. A lot like Alaska and yes we have an ocean coastline here.
The 3120XP and MS880 are top grade milling saws, don't listen to the heresay of others who only wish they had one.
Get a 2nd saw like a MS362 or a 562XP and you're good to go.
BTW welcome to our forum......we need more well spoken folks like you.
I need three saws......I usually pinch the first two.
Clutch parts, 1-2ft. 3/16 fuel line and O-rings (fuel and oil caps) and plenty of files and ability to use them half way decently at least. And all the PPE you can carry for up there!
arnold45
Going to homestead some land in AK?
A couple years ago, we had a member here who with her husband was homesteading West of Fairbanks.
She had a very interesting blog running for a couple years, and last she wrote they were having quite a struggle. Hope they persevered. Had some real battles with weather, muddy trails, neighbors, etc. but did seem to have a bank roll to pull through some of the tough times.
She started on the forum asking about some interesting form of a circular-framed pole construction.
Forum name Plicketycat.
Posted 2009 - 2012.
Just found her Blog, and last couple years not much posted. Apparently tough going. Here's a link.
http://www.jenninewardle.com/
Maybe I can find more on it.
I will second what HolmenTree said on the big saws for milling. I have a friend who has a 880 and does quite a bit of milling with it and it has held up very well. I use a 390xp for milling, but for me it is just a hobby. I got tired of cutting up big wood for firewood.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 14, 2015, 09:43:57 PM
arnoldr45, you sound a lot like me as I'm enjoying the wilderness an solitude here in Thompson, Manitoba. A lot like Alaska and yes we have an ocean coastline here.
The 3120XP and MS880 are top grade milling saws, don't listen to the heresay of others who only wish they had one.
Get a 2nd saw like a MS362 or a 562XP and you're good to go.
BTW welcome to our forum......we need more well spoken folks like you.
Thank you. What do you do out there anyways?
Yeah I'm still on the fence about it since I can only take one saw, I'm thinking I might just grab the MS661 or 395XP since I can only take one...I'm still trying to talk myself into the big saw though :) I mean when it comes down to it, once I have a trail and the cabin is built the chainsaws job will for the most part be done.
Quote from: beenthere on September 14, 2015, 09:55:07 PM
arnold45
Going to homestead some land in AK?
A couple years ago, we had a member here who with her husband was homesteading West of Fairbanks.
She had a very interesting blog running for a couple years, and last she wrote they were having quite a struggle. Hope they persevered. Had some real battles with weather, muddy trails, neighbors, etc. but did seem to have a bank roll to pull through some of the tough times.
She started on the forum asking about some interesting form of a circular-framed pole construction.
Forum name Plicketycat.
Posted 2009 - 2012.
Just found her Blog, and last couple years not much posted. Apparently tough going. Here's a link.
http://www.jenninewardle.com/
Maybe I can find more on it.
That's interesting, I did a bit of reading on that and it seems like they didn't have too good of a time. It'll be different for me though! ...of course I'd say that right? haha. I grew up with an outhouse and holes in the roof, I'm pretty sure I can manage, but I reckon only the stupid one doesn't listen to experience.
I reckon you could say that's pretty much my plan though, just living life out in the bush. I'll probably start a Youtube thing channel about it, although I doubt I'll be able to keep it going once I actually get up there.
I have a 395xp that I use for milling, but also as a falling saw. I use a 20" and a 24" bar for falling, but a 36" bar for milling. If you are limited by freight, maybe take a few different bar sizes to avoid the weight and space of two saws, but still have options, just make sure they use the same pitch of chain. As far as spare parts I'd add that you should bring a spool of chain, breaker, and spinner to build your own chain loops in the bush instead of relying on a dealer.
Makes me wonder what happens to these "homesteads" when people just finally give up and move away... leaving the spoils they created behind.
Are there any AK requirements to clean up the mess... or is it just another part of the landscape forever?
I would suspect there is a very high rate of "change of heart and mind" . Guess 80% maybe?
I've never done milling but I know it's pushing a saw to it's limits .
What do most run for a mix ratio ? , I've read a lot run at 32:1 when milling to give the engine extra oil .
If you're gonna be basically done with the saw after milling, maybe buy the big gun (3120 or 880) and when you are finished milling, sell it and buy a 50cc and a 70cc saw. You will not want to run a 3120 all day cutting trails or firewood. A 395 will wear on you doing that pretty quick as well.
A 50cc saw is light, and very versatile. Good to take in the truck\atv\snowmobile, wherever. Good to cut brush with all day, limb trees, some firewood. A 70cc saw is more heavy duty, will block firewood faster, and be able to handle large trees and felling duty.
Alternative, one good 60cc saw will do most everything. The premier 60cc's today are the Stihl 362, Husky 562xp\Jonsered 2260 and the Dolmar 6100.
But I'd prefer to have more than one saw, backups, just in case.
I have a 395xp I use for milling, with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. It does the job just fine. 24" spruce, you'd probably be fine with a 395, but you'll surely have no trouble selling a 3120 or 880 all set up for milling.
Quote from: beenthere on September 17, 2015, 04:40:56 PM
Makes me wonder what happens to these "homesteads" when people just finally give up and move away... leaving the spoils they created behind.
Are there any AK requirements to clean up the mess... or is it just another part of the landscape forever?
I would suspect there is a very high rate of "change of heart and mind" . Guess 80% maybe?
It wouldn't surprise me if that number is even higher. You definitely don't need to leave in order to trash the place up though. Just do a search on Alaska and living on youtube, you'll see most homes are inhabited by absolute pigs who can't even keep their yards clean. It's a shame really, it seems like the state attracts all the riff raff and undesirables.
Quote from: celliott on September 17, 2015, 05:29:05 PM
If you're gonna be basically done with the saw after milling, maybe buy the big gun (3120 or 880) and when you are finished milling, sell it and buy a 50cc and a 70cc saw. You will not want to run a 3120 all day cutting trails or firewood. A 395 will wear on you doing that pretty quick as well.
A 50cc saw is light, and very versatile. Good to take in the truck\atv\snowmobile, wherever. Good to cut brush with all day, limb trees, some firewood. A 70cc saw is more heavy duty, will block firewood faster, and be able to handle large trees and felling duty.
Alternative, one good 60cc saw will do most everything. The premier 60cc's today are the Stihl 362, Husky 562xp\Jonsered 2260 and the Dolmar 6100.
But I'd prefer to have more than one saw, backups, just in case.
I have a 395xp I use for milling, with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. It does the job just fine. 24" spruce, you'd probably be fine with a 395, but you'll surely have no trouble selling a 3120 or 880 all set up for milling.
You know that's not a bad idea at all! As long as the big ones hold a decent resale value.
I think you'll want the chainsaw for the firewood, it'll be worth the hassle to have some gas and oil brought out for it. I'd bring two identical saws out in your situation personally, because things just happen and you won't have easy access to parts. I'd rather take more time to mill the lumber for a one time project than to have to use an axe year after year for all my firewood. I had your same dream and just over 7 years ago actually bought some land there, right next door to the member plicketycat another mentioned. What I got from locals was it would be nothing to burn through 10 cords in a winter. It's mostly spruce as you know, not the nice sugar maple an oak I'm used to in the east. That would be a lot of time cutting with an axe when you will have other things to do as well. I do envy you though, I gave up for financial an other reasons and sold that land and bought some land in Vermont instead. I haven't entirely lost interest in it though. Have you walked your land on foot to see what you've got for timber?
I can only imagine how much wood you're gonna burn in the winter. I wouldn't go there with just one saw for milling. I'd bring one for milling and a 50cc saw for firewooding.
I like the idea of duplicate saws, but then I run vintage saws. My original goal was to have two deep in everything that I use. If you can only bring one saw though, I'd take a bevy of replacement parts...even a P&C and full gasket set. Get all the chainsaw tools you'll need to service the saw properly. Brand new, you should have at least a yr on the saw without any major problems. Get a book on how to repair chainsaws or the factory SM. Lean how to do vacuum and pressure tests on the saw...bring a gallon of carb cleaner soak with the dip tray and at least one full carb rebuild kit. I'd bring some crank seals too just in case. Get at least three AF's for the saw, trigger springs...anything that can break with lots of use.
If it were me, I'd get a 394 with replacement parts...but only if I could find full replacement parts or a donor saw. Bring several bars of different lengths for it. Excellent suggestion on bringing a roll of chain and learning how to make you own loops. If you frequent these forums, these guys find deals all the time from defunct saw shops where they get a whole truckload of parts for $50...I've seen it happen. A lot of them are sitting around with three or four boxes of 394/395 parts . Planning ahead for the worst case scenario is everything. I used to teach wilderness survival....this isn't the place for a tutorial though. In the beginning, your everyday survival will take precedent over everything else. But after a month or so, you'll really start to enjoy your surroundings.
That is until winter sets in....lol. Do everything you can to prepare for your winter. Keep a log & a checklist of things you want to accomplish before winter. When the first snows hit, take it REAL seriously and winterize everything that need be. Don't put your life on the line with generators...always have a back-up plan that is manual. Also have a plan if you get hurt;how are you going to contact someone and do you have an exit strategy to safety? Meet all your neighbors, they are your lifeline. Even if they seem to be kooks or irascible fools, most neighbor people will help in an emergency if for no other reason, it could happen to them.
Kevin
Quote from: arnoldr45 on September 18, 2015, 03:22:57 PM
Quote from: beenthere on September 17, 2015, 04:40:56 PM
Makes me wonder what happens to these "homesteads" when people just finally give up and move away... leaving the spoils they created behind.
Are there any AK requirements to clean up the mess... or is it just another part of the landscape forever?
(...)
A 50cc saw is light, and very versatile. Good to take in the truck\atv\snowmobile, wherever. Good to cut brush with all day, limb trees, some firewood. A 70cc saw is more heavy duty, will block firewood faster, and be able to handle large trees and felling duty.
Alternative, one good 60cc saw will do most everything. The premier 60cc's today are the Stihl 362, Husky 562xp\Jonsered 2260 and the Dolmar 6100.
But I'd prefer to have more than one saw, backups, just in case.
I have a 395xp I use for milling, with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. It does the job just fine. 24" spruce, you'd probably be fine with a 395, but you'll surely have no trouble selling a 3120 or 880 all set up for milling.
You know that's not a bad idea at all! As long as the big ones hold a decent resale value.
I use a Stihl MS660 (92cc) for milling white spruce, pine and larch up to 24" diameter with a 24" bar on my Logosol M8. I think picking a much smaller saw would be asking for trouble. Frozen or green wood and large knots are quite demanding on a saw. Chainsaw milling is already a slow process. You don't want to make the process much slower, especially if you are using some milling equipment that requires lots of setting and adjustments (other than M7 or M8).
Keep in mind that a 24"x 12 feet long log weight is over 1000 lbs. It is hard to keep such logs free of dirt and sand without proper lifting equipment. Milling dirty logs requires that you peel off the bark and clean up before you start cutting. I've got a farm tractor with a loader... it really makes the operation quite easy with minimal chances of getting hurt lifting heavy logs.
For firewood I use a MS261 (50cc) with a 16" bar because it is much lighter than my 660 and it has plenty of power for most jobs. The longer the bar and the bigger the saw, the faster you will get exhausted triming limbs on a fallen tree. Trimming limbs is easier and safer with a bar no longer than 18". One thing for sure, I woul NOT even think using a 50cc or even 70cc saw for milling. They are simply not designed for such load and may not provide the extra amount of oil required on a longer bar at heavy load. Husky 395xp or MS660 are the recommended saw size for Logosol M8 sawmill kit. There is a reason.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36741/2015-07-04_15_41_23_1e_tranche_bille_de_24_po.jpg)
Welcome arnoldr45. I would suggest as pre iously mentioned, a larger sized saw like the Stihl 660 or 394/395 Husky. That coupled with a Logosol M8 or Farmers M8 and you will be real good to go. If you want a setup for slabbimg, a Granberg Alaskan is a good setup. If you are planning on milling a lot of stuff for construction, Logsol is the way to get it done, especially if you set your milling saw up as they recommend using the stihl 63PMX milling chain. I use that setup whether I am milling with my Bumblebee (1980's vintage CSM kind of like a Logosol), or using my Alaskan mill, i really like the performance of the picco milling chain vs anything else I have used. White spruce mills pretty easy, black spruce would be similar with mayb a little slower going as the growth rings are real tight on black spruce on account of its very slow growth rate. What part of the Great Land are you looking at? We lived in remote Alaska before for a while, though we were in the villiages (Aniak, Kotzebue, Nome). If access is a premium, you can certainly do all your milling with an Alaskan mill, just that the Logosol is loads faster. You can speed up production with an alaskan style mill, if you use 2 saws, one with the Alaskan on it and another of smaller size for edging, say a 441 or 372 sized saw with a 20-24" bar/chain on it and a mini mill bolted on. Using 2 saws that way, you split up the work and give one a rest, and you aren't fiddling ng around having to change settings every other cut. A good complement of files is a must, along with a good bowsaw or 2 a couple high grade axes, (council tool, or good swedish steel), and you will want some log handling tools( see Logrite), a peavy, and if you are taking an ATV, a logrite arch. To move your wood from stump to mill, or even for gathering firewood faster. An arch is a time saver. Unless you are doing heavy slabbing, the expense of a 3120 or 880 is not too practical, IMHO. Though they are great saws for that purpose. A notch smaller and you can use the 660 sized saw for both milling and other chores, but you will want to hage separate bar/chain setups for each task. Milling and firewood cutting cannot be done effectively using the same chain. It can be done, but eiher your milling performance will suffer or your firewood cutting performance will, depending on what chain you have and how it is sharpened. It is easier just to keep one for each purpose and you will want several spare drive rims, some spare pull starter rope, at least enough tools to remove and install a piston/cylinder a spare carb kit or 2, some spar clutch drum bearings, extra bar sprocket tips, a chain breaker/spinner to fix your own saw chain, and maybe some extra links and rivets to go with your saw kit. If mail order is not too far away from where you will be, there are good sources within the sponsors of this forum to send you anything you may need by way of saw support items too. Good luck with your adventure.
lamimartin- When I used my 461r for milling it oiled fine. Of course, the R model gives the high output oiler. I also made an auxiliary oiler which worked well.
Howdy,
Whichever powerhead you choose for milling, use high octane fuel to help longevity.
Regards
Gregg
Quote from: 4x4American on September 20, 2015, 09:01:06 AM
I can only imagine how much wood you're gonna burn in the winter. I wouldn't go there with just one saw for milling. I'd bring one for milling and a 50cc saw for firewooding.
Well I'll have the old lady to keep me warm too 8)
Quote from: CJennings on September 20, 2015, 08:23:23 AM
I think you'll want the chainsaw for the firewood, it'll be worth the hassle to have some gas and oil brought out for it. I'd bring two identical saws out in your situation personally, because things just happen and you won't have easy access to parts. I'd rather take more time to mill the lumber for a one time project than to have to use an axe year after year for all my firewood. I had your same dream and just over 7 years ago actually bought some land there, right next door to the member plicketycat another mentioned. What I got from locals was it would be nothing to burn through 10 cords in a winter. It's mostly spruce as you know, not the nice sugar maple an oak I'm used to in the east. That would be a lot of time cutting with an axe when you will have other things to do as well. I do envy you though, I gave up for financial an other reasons and sold that land and bought some land in Vermont instead. I haven't entirely lost interest in it though. Have you walked your land on foot to see what you've got for timber?
As far as the survival, I've got a pretty good head on my shoulders when it comes to this kind of stuff, however I do hope to freeze to death or die out there someday, just not anytime soon!
I'm sorry to hear that you didn't make it. My wife keeps trying to talk me into other things, that to her credit actually make sense...but I just don't give a hoot. At 34 years old, I'm sick of putting my dreams off, I mean we get what, maybe 90 trips around the sun if we're lucky? I refuse to die wishing I had followed my dream, or spent more time doing it. IMO money and belongings have no value, they're just there for the kids and neighbors to fight over when we're gone. Don't give up on that dream.
I have not walked the property unfortunately! Just seen a lot of photos, I've checked army engineer maps, etc so I know the area is good.
Quote from: lamimartin on September 20, 2015, 02:39:32 PM
Quote from: arnoldr45 on September 18, 2015, 03:22:57 PM
Quote from: beenthere on September 17, 2015, 04:40:56 PM
Makes me wonder what happens to these "homesteads" when people just finally give up and move away... leaving the spoils they created behind.
Are there any AK requirements to clean up the mess... or is it just another part of the landscape forever?
(...)
A 50cc saw is light, and very versatile. Good to take in the truck\atv\snowmobile, wherever. Good to cut brush with all day, limb trees, some firewood. A 70cc saw is more heavy duty, will block firewood faster, and be able to handle large trees and felling duty.
Alternative, one good 60cc saw will do most everything. The premier 60cc's today are the Stihl 362, Husky 562xp\Jonsered 2260 and the Dolmar 6100.
But I'd prefer to have more than one saw, backups, just in case.
I have a 395xp I use for milling, with a 36" Granberg Alaskan. It does the job just fine. 24" spruce, you'd probably be fine with a 395, but you'll surely have no trouble selling a 3120 or 880 all set up for milling.
You know that's not a bad idea at all! As long as the big ones hold a decent resale value.
I use a Stihl MS660 (92cc) for milling white spruce, pine and larch up to 24" diameter with a 24" bar on my Logosol M8. I think picking a much smaller saw would be asking for trouble. Frozen or green wood and large knots are quite demanding on a saw. Chainsaw milling is already a slow process. You don't want to make the process much slower, especially if you are using some milling equipment that requires lots of setting and adjustments (other than M7 or M8).
Keep in mind that a 24"x 12 feet long log weight is over 1000 lbs. It is hard to keep such logs free of dirt and sand without proper lifting equipment. Milling dirty logs requires that you peel off the bark and clean up before you start cutting. I've got a farm tractor with a loader... it really makes the operation quite easy with minimal chances of getting hurt lifting heavy logs.
For firewood I use a MS261 (50cc) with a 16" bar because it is much lighter than my 660 and it has plenty of power for most jobs. The longer the bar and the bigger the saw, the faster you will get exhausted triming limbs on a fallen tree. Trimming limbs is easier and safer with a bar no longer than 18". One thing for sure, I woul NOT even think using a 50cc or even 70cc saw for milling. They are simply not designed for such load and may not provide the extra amount of oil required on a longer bar at heavy load. Husky 395xp or MS660 are the recommended saw size for Logosol M8 sawmill kit. There is a reason.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36741/2015-07-04_15_41_23_1e_tranche_bille_de_24_po.jpg)
Yeah I think I've decided on the MS661, I'll take some spare parts, probably 3 ripper chains and a few normal ones along with a few spare bars just in case. I'm looking at an ATV and the log kit but I'm not sure I can get it out there reasonably priced, I'm definitely looking at a nice chain hoist for the logs during building though. I figure dragging or rolling a 12" wide log is a lot easier than getting it up where it needs to be.
Quote from: mad murdock on September 20, 2015, 08:40:07 PM
Welcome arnoldr45. I would suggest as pre iously mentioned, a larger sized saw like the Stihl 660 or 394/395 Husky. That coupled with a Logosol M8 or Farmers M8 and you will be real good to go. If you want a setup for slabbimg, a Granberg Alaskan is a good setup. If you are planning on milling a lot of stuff for construction, Logsol is the way to get it done, especially if you set your milling saw up as they recommend using the stihl 63PMX milling chain. I use that setup whether I am milling with my Bumblebee (1980's vintage CSM kind of like a Logosol), or using my Alaskan mill, i really like the performance of the picco milling chain vs anything else I have used. White spruce mills pretty easy, black spruce would be similar with mayb a little slower going as the growth rings are real tight on black spruce on account of its very slow growth rate. What part of the Great Land are you looking at? We lived in remote Alaska before for a while, though we were in the villiages (Aniak, Kotzebue, Nome). If access is a premium, you can certainly do all your milling with an Alaskan mill, just that the Logosol is loads faster. You can speed up production with an alaskan style mill, if you use 2 saws, one with the Alaskan on it and another of smaller size for edging, say a 441 or 372 sized saw with a 20-24" bar/chain on it and a mini mill bolted on. Using 2 saws that way, you split up the work and give one a rest, and you aren't fiddling ng around having to change settings every other cut. A good complement of files is a must, along with a good bowsaw or 2 a couple high grade axes, (council tool, or good swedish steel), and you will want some log handling tools( see Logrite), a peavy, and if you are taking an ATV, a logrite arch. To move your wood from stump to mill, or even for gathering firewood faster. An arch is a time saver. Unless you are doing heavy slabbing, the expense of a 3120 or 880 is not too practical, IMHO. Though they are great saws for that purpose. A notch smaller and you can use the 660 sized saw for both milling and other chores, but you will want to hage separate bar/chain setups for each task. Milling and firewood cutting cannot be done effectively using the same chain. It can be done, but eiher your milling performance will suffer or your firewood cutting performance will, depending on what chain you have and how it is sharpened. It is easier just to keep one for each purpose and you will want several spare drive rims, some spare pull starter rope, at least enough tools to remove and install a piston/cylinder a spare carb kit or 2, some spar clutch drum bearings, extra bar sprocket tips, a chain breaker/spinner to fix your own saw chain, and maybe some extra links and rivets to go with your saw kit. If mail order is not too far away from where you will be, there are good sources within the sponsors of this forum to send you anything you may need by way of saw support items too. Good luck with your adventure.
I used to have a good friend that worked out in Nome, my god all she ever did was complain about it! Although I have to admit I wouldn't want to live in Nome either. We're going to be out in the brooks mountain range. I'm actually helping my father re open the gunshop and get the farm kicking off again pretty soon this year so I'm hoping I'll have a good chunk of extra cash to freight supplies out if all goes well, I'll definitely keep an eye on those parts though.
Quote from: Grandedog on September 21, 2015, 07:43:57 PM
Howdy,
Whichever powerhead you choose for milling, use high octane fuel to help longevity.
Regards
Gregg
Good tip, thank you! And to everyone else thank you very much for your help in the matter.
Doesn't sound like your wife has the same dream.
And FYI... no need to quote everything that is in the thread. ;)
Well good luck! I just saw a video in another thread of a guy csming (chainsawmilling) with a Stihl 390, and it seemed to be doing okay. Just remember, a 661 is still fairly new and might not have all of the kinks worked out, and if anything goes wrong with that computer, you're dead in the water until you can get it to a dealer. I still recommend a 461 with no computer while you can still get them. There's enough power for pulling that rip chain through the softwood logs you'll encounter out there, plus it won't kill you doing firewood. I have an 066, 660, and a 461, and the 461 gets used the most, my favorite saw.
I'm no chainsaw expert by any means but I can offer you my point of view from owning a few through the years. My most used saws were Stihl 038 & & a MS290. Mostly felling small trees, bucking for fire wood, & brushing. I got tried carrying the MS290 around the woods so I bought a MS180. I loved the saw except for the .043 bar & chain that the dealer put on it. So that saw didn't get used much. I recently bought a new .050 bar & chain & fell in love with this saw. I have a 14" bar on it & it cuts very fast for it's tiny size. It is easy to hold over my head to do limbs & I don't mind walking the fence line & climbing the straight up & down hills I have with it. It has never been used for felling anything over 6" & I'm sure it never will but to cut a 12 limb it is my first pick. It is much safer to use these small saws for doing limbs(IMO). Also from what I've seen in the Stihl recommended bar lengths is that your good as long as you don't intend on burring the bar up to the chain but if you are you need to drop 2-4" off the bar length.
If it were me there is no way I'd go with only one saw & try to do what you are saying. The 660 sounds like a good plan but I'd get it with a 36" bar & chain. I'd also get a 18" & 24" to fit it. Then find someway to get a MS180 or something like it with a 14" bar to do limbs & it would probably also do most of your bucking for firewood & be your go to saw for trails. You will probably find the most use for a small saw but While you can cut small trees with a small saw you can't cut big trees with a small saw(Well you can but it isn't much fun or very safe).
Have you bothered to ask the local dealer in AK how much they are to buy from him? Take into account the price of you having it shipped & the fact that the local guy might be a good friend to make by spending a little money in his shop. It is always good to have advice from someone local & someone that is thankful for your business. If your leaving your local area now why would it make since to spend your money there where you will probably never see these people again.
Another bit of advice is to use more then one fuel can keeping one only for your Stihl equipment that ALWAYS has the gas mixed in it & is NEVER set aside to do later. Sounds like you already have plans for a axe(I rarely use) but wedges & a good Kukri can be handy. My Kukri saves me some gas & by the end of the day that means something. I don't want to carry anymore gas then I need but I really sucks to be out in the middle of a cut.
Not sure how you're getting there, but if you're driving and happen to be going up the coast, stop in to Madsen's they have really good prices on saws, they have a large inventory, and know what they're talking about. www.madsens1.com is their site they're in Centralia, WA.
You gonna get satellite internet so that you can keep us updated on life in the Alaskan bush? ;D
I like the advice of the band saw mill that's more purpose built than a CSM.
Go up with a smaller saw that's easier to handle for a novice than a big pro.....something Husky.
I would think portable mills in Alaska would have no trouble selling when used, if kept well.
Kevin
Its been 5 years. He may have had a heart attack lugging a 3120 out into the wilderness by now.
I know it's been 5 years since this thread got going but, this might be a good time for the update, ESPECIALLY if more people were interested in the details and specifics. I understand the OP was only saying "1" saw, but what about 2 powerheads and a doubleheaded bar? This way he could have plenty of ponies and a less weighty option for toting around for the smaller jobs that inevitably come up. Say for example: 1 261cm + 661cm: = roughly 141CC. That should be more than enough to do whatever milling might be done. He could set up and start the other PH and ready it for "go time" for his partner in crime to help him get through whatever he might want done. Plus, spare parts if necessary, if correct shopping prior to the purchase is done. These are just thoughts and take it for what you will. My $0.02. Thought over.
Yeah, I got confused on the old thread date and put in a post....my bad. Although it would be really cool to hear from this guy again about his epic adventure.
Kevin