(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0273.JPG)
The Tree Boss...still a work in progress.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0320.JPG)
New cage
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0315.JPG)
Fly wheel need refacing you think? My tranny would not shift unless the motor was shut off, the clutch plate was rusted to the flywheel I believe
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0326.JPG)
New side cage to copy the newer models...but I like the open door driver side of the older models...its wider and easier to jump in and out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0323.JPG)
Tree Boss tacked in place
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0313.JPG)
Ready to clean up
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0311.JPG)
Any one have a trick on how to improve this boot situation...its bad. Can't get the new boot over the lip and keep it there and water out. The plunger keeps unseating it...not a good setup.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0309.JPG)
Rust from sitting for two years
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0321.JPG)
Moving gauges for easier viewing for old eyes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0324.JPG)
Tree Boss tacked in place
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0304.JPG)
Someone tacked a bar across the cradle pin...I assume to keep it from moving but shouldn't an original roll pin be ok...don't like gob jobs like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35364/IMG_0318.JPG)
Side cage...sideways???
I'd have the flywheel ground :) :)
X2 on the flywheel. Maybe new pressure plate too with clitch disk. You'll be glad you did when its all back together.
Good looking 230 , looks like you will have some nice up - dates when your done . My 230 D has the manifold and blower on the opposite side of yours , wonder why maybe just the age difference ?
Looks good. Do you have 2 TJs, just looking at your picks?
Looking good! going to be a nice machine when you get finished :8 What I do with boots like that is after I get it installed, I wrap some safety wire around the area that is over the groove, so as to tighten the wire around it, acting like a clamp. If you don't have safety wire, you can use some lacing cord or tar line or something like that as well. Just so that you can get it in there, a few wraps and tighten and tie it off.
Thanks for the tips guys. I'll have the flywheel refaced and cough up the dough for a whole new clutch assembly. It will be one less thing to worry about after assembly absolutely.
I'll try some wire or maybe a hose clamp on the boot to keep it from floating around. Working on that master cylinder when the motor is in place is really a bugger. I know a few who have cut a hole in the side of the skidder to get to it! So now's the time to attack it.
Tantoy: I only have one skidder right now. Sure wish I could jump in full bore like you guys did on your Garrett and get her done quick but I only have weekends to work on her. My commercial logging days are over so its for fun. I still marvel at how your Garrett came out.
Pilot and throw out bearings too :)
Sandersen if you keep going your going to have that C turned into a D series. Are you doing the fabrication work yourself? I've used a tie wrap to secure the boots. I think the proper cradle pin has a head on it and a piece of flat bar welded to the frame so the pin can't turn, I think I would have to clean up that gob job. Keep the pics coming we all love them.
Thanks Bushmechanic...yeah doin the fab work myself, that's a big part of the fun. I spent the day calling around for parts for the old T98 BW tranny but everyone said the same..."no way." Simple kits for gaskets and seals are available but hard parts like gears and shafts are tough...even used. Davco said the best bet was to upgrade to a good used New Process then parts would still be available pretty much anywhere. Might do that. Getting the fly wheel ground tomorrow and then dragging out the motor for a full on steam clean before tearing down any further. Thanks for all the tips...very helpful as I'm not in TJ country anymore out here in MT.
But I remember in the 70's and 80's going into Harold's logging on a Friday for parts and supplies and Harold would be punching the adding machine and tallying up his sales with a tally tape trailing over the counter and spilling onto the floor. Ka-ching. "You can either be the guy on the end of the saw, or the guy that sells the saw to the guy on the end of the saw!"
sandersen, nice job and good pics. your gonna have a nice woods machine. when I had my flywheel ground and replaced all clutch componentry I could not get the clutch to adjust where it was before. You would think the new clutch disc would take up the space but dosen't matter how I adjust it dumps at the end of the pedal. Kiko mentioned shimming the flywheel out to take up for the flywheel resurfacing. Wondering if anyone else has run into this. anyway nice work and keep the pics coming.
David L: I remember reading your post about that problem, and I'v been worried about that very thing. I wonder if grounding is really needed...what if I just took a light wire cup on a grinder and cleaned it up myself...I did in fact make a bit of a difference with steel wool and elbow grease. Having a clutch dump at the bottom would be pretty frustrating after all this work. Thanks.
When I replaced the Clutch in my JD dozer the throwout forks were worn so I replaced that also. It cost too much to have to tear it down a second time,I also replaced the throwout bearing.
Did the clutch chatter when engaged? if not maybe skip the resurface. Wold just braking the glaze with a orbital do any good, I know it helps on cryogenicly frozen rotors I use when done occasionally.
I agree fordman. Tantoy: the clutch wasn't chattering but the tranny would not shift into gear unless the motor was not running. I'm going to try you suggestion about the orbital sander and see what happens...nothing to lose after all really. I cleaned up the fly wheel today with a wire wheel and grinder and got off all the rust around the rim and teeth. I noticed a few small hairline cracks, but I don't think those are a big deal (unless you guys disagree...I'll post a picture) I may as well replace the pilot bearing and the rear main seal while it's all exposed.
Nice job you are doing!
You should be able to find gears etc for that t98. That tranny was very popular in the old jeeps and fords. I think u just need to look for automotive part retailers not forestry.
Novak for example. They started business building transmission adapters for jeep convertions years ago.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transmission/transmission-parts/t98-parts/
They are all over bone yards too. Just pop the top off and look at the gears before u buy a used one.
The old girl looks great and love the pics!
Cheers!
Sandersen: Thanks for sharing. Your work is motivating. I look forward to watching your progress.
Thank guys much obliged for all the help.