I've done a few things in the short time I've had my mill. I decided to start a thread that I can keep updating so people that are interested in this mill can see how things are going for me, what problems I'm having, & how I've adapted.
I usually us file hosting sites to host my pictures but since I haven't read the rules on this & I think I've seen others told not to do this there probably won't be any pictures.
I'll keep editing the list in the first post as long as I'm allowed. If there is a time limit on editing I'll ask a mods help in editing or add to the list in a new reply.
I hope this will be useful to people looking into this mill or helpful to this having problems with it.
First thing I did was order two pieces of angle that was 20' 5/16" thick 3"x4" long to allow me to cut longer logs. This also allowed a couple of extra inch's of log high.
In extending the track I decided to make new bunks. I'm using H structure & only since I already drilled homes to fit the stock bunks I decided to drill on one side of the H structure for mounting. I also bought 2" thin tubing for the standers but since they are metric I had to weld a thin piece of angle in one corner to take up the slack. I plan on putting this on both sides to help with loading logs to keep then from rolling of the other side.
I use aa 1.5"x2" block on the tip of the log dog after getting it into a cant or board to keep from damaging them.
I need to be able to move my log dog around to get in the best position to hold the log so I welded small pieces of pipe to angle that will slide over the piece of pipe that the log dog tracks on. I use C clamp vise grips ATM to hold it in place.
I wasn't cutting very good lumber with the stock blade so I ordered 4° Wood Maxx blades from Kasco. You'll need to call & talk to Derek to get these since they aren't listed in their site.
In very short turn the roller bearings on the guides froze up so I removed them popped the seals & used Dextron III to get them moving again. Once moving I washed them out & filed with grease.
The drive belt doesn't fit the clutch so the side will get cut out of it. I've yet to address this.
I'm considering upgrading to a bigger engine.
Edited:21Oct15 5:50PM EDST
Another mod is turning the roller legs around backwoods & switching sides with them. Saw dust was packing in the rulers on about every cut. Putting the shirt side in back & the long leg in front keeps the dust from being blown under the roller. It also moves the stater & locking cams closer to you when standing at the back of the track.
I was having a problem with locking cams not having enough pressure to keep from sliding down the post during a cut. The quick fix was using my wife's hair bungee to hold the cable crank until I tightened up the cam locks. However they are a poor design & if you don't push up on the hinges & pull down on the handle at the same time the rod will bend. As I get time I'll decide how to address this. More then likely with a new design.
Edited: 22Oct15 8:15PM EDST
This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .005" of stretch.
It's a great idea to start a thread on these mills as there seems to be plenty of room for improvement but, if you're going to do it, you really need to learn how to post pics. It isn't that difficult.
A lot more people will watch your post with pictures.
It isn't that I don't know how to post pictures. I do it in other forms all the time. It is the rules that restrict them that is prohibitive. I don't have much data so in selective how I upload. Of I could just use code to show them & have then hosted somewhere else I probably would. I'm usually to busy while working to take pictures anyhow.
I figure if someone needs this information it can still be useful without the pictures.
We love pictures.
I am soon about to buy one of these mills, so any upfront advise or details on mods that I have have ready to go when I get the mill home will be great.
Kingmt,
I think it is more helpful if you respond to comments in order, rather than going back and editing your original post. If you do that there will be comments after the original that won't make any sense because you changed the original. It is easier to follow a thread over time. Many readers only read the unread posts and would miss out on your edits of earlier posts.
I already have a larger mill so will be reading for general interest but photos go a very long way to illustrating what you are talking about, especially when you are explaining modifications.
You really should learn to post photos. Many folks post one or more with their very first post on the forum. ;)
Quote from: Shotgun on October 21, 2015, 05:23:08 PM
You really should learn to post photos. Many folks post one or more with their very first post on the forum. ;)
I've already explained it isn't a matter of knowing how. I'm not going to intentionally break some rules & I'm not willing to go about uploading then.
Quote from: Tom the Sawyer on October 21, 2015, 04:26:29 PM
Kingmt,
I think it is more helpful if you respond to comments in order, rather than going back and editing your original post. If you do that there will be comments after the original that won't make any sense because you changed the original. It is easier to follow a thread over time. Many readers only read the unread posts and would miss out on your edits of earlier posts.
I agree so I'll do both to make it easier to fallow & to make it easier to find them all in one place.
Another mod is turning the roller legs around backwoods & switching sides with them. Saw dust was packing in the rulers on about every cut. Putting the shirt side in back & the long leg in front keeps the dust from being blown under the roller. It also moves the stater & locking cams closer to you when standing at the back of the track.
I was having a problem with locking cams not having enough pressure to keep from sliding down the post during a cut. The quick fix was using my wife's hair bungee to hold the cable crank until I tightened up the cam locks. However they are a poor design & if you don't push up on the hinges & pull down on the handle at the same time the rod will bend. As I get time I'll decide how to address this. More then likely with a new design.
I have a lot of pics of my HF mill. If you go to my gallery you can see them.
I do find it harder to post pics on this board than others that I frequent.
i am happy with my mill overall. I own a fabrication shop and I could not build a mill for what I paid for this one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/DSCN0511.JPG)
Thanks for your picture Stim. I see your rollers are already in the poison I moved mine to. I'm happy with my purchase also. If I was too so it over I'd still by this first but I may build me a bigger one yet. Seeing where this one can be improved should help me make a better mill & I still get to saw in the mean time.
what size and where do you get blades?
Quote from: Raider Bill on October 22, 2015, 08:39:16 AM
what size and where do you get blades?
Quote from: Kingmt on October 21, 2015, 10:04:07 AM
I wasn't cutting very good lumber with the stock blade so I ordered 4° Wood Maxx blades from Kasco. You'll need to call & talk to Derek to get these since they aren't listed in their site.
They are 144" x 1.25"
Is that a common size?
IDK but I find them listed on different sites so I'd guess so.
This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .005" of stretch.
Edited to fix typo.
Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM
This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.
That would change depending on the thickness and the width of your blade ...
Thickness of the blade don't matter. A thicker blade just needs more tension to reach .050".
Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM
Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.
This should be 0.005" or (5 thousandths) of a inch of measured "stretch".
Note:
To obtain this much tension, a larger outside diameter flat washer is needed that fits snug inside the tube. Otherwise, the rubber insert will deform and start to "squish" out around the stock washer and deform the insert. The replacement washer might have to have the outer diameter ground to get a snug fit.
Quote from: Cutting Edge on October 22, 2015, 08:10:12 PM
Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM
Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.
This should be 0.005" or (5 thousandths) of a inch of measured "stretch".
Note:
To obtain this much tension, a larger outside diameter flat washer is needed that fits snug inside the tube. Otherwise, the rubber insert will deform and start to "squish" out around the stock washer and deform the insert. The replacement washer might have to have the outer diameter ground to get a snug fit.
Thanks for correcting my typo.
To obtain .005" or .050" you need the washer? I'm not quite fallowing. What insert?
If there is others that have/had this mill or know this mill your mods & repair info is welcome. I started this thread with the intent to provide the info that I'd searched for & couldn't find before buying my mill. So any suggestions would be great.
Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 08:19:31 PM
To obtain .005" or .050" you need the washer? I'm not quite fallowing. What insert?
You have a "T" handle for applying tension the blade, under that is a flat washer. Under that flat washer (inside the round tube) is a stiff rubber insert.
The original flat washer is undersized in relationship to the tube. This gap allows the rubber insert to squeeze out past the washer, which in turn, reduces it's effectiveness to keep the blade properly tensioned. The larger (replacement) washer reduces the gap so the whole insert is compressed evenly.
While you have it apart, put some GOOD marine grade grease on the acme threaded rod and also a little on the face of the washer that contacts the "T" handle... NONE on the rubber insert side of the washer. Helps prevent gaulding of the threads and reduces friction, making tensioning the blade surprisingly easier.
While you're at it, disassemble the crank assembly and do the same to it. The bronze threaded insert is a known weak spot and they don't have much lubrication on them from the factory. Pay extra attention to the thrust bearing and repack it.
Thanks I'll look into that on the tensioner. I took the crank for the cables apart already & mind was full of grease. I've been thinking about taking it back apart for a closer inspection & possibly a half nut fabrication.
Well looks like my time is up to be able to edit the first post.
I was having large amounts of saw dust getting in the rollers which I still need to make a way of self cleaning. Until then I decided to try to deal with where the dust is coming from. The dust is traveling over to the idler side & dropping out of the cover on the track right in front of the wheel. I have planned to add a piece on angle to the bottom of the head post just clearing the track. Possibly adding a brush to it as well. In the mean time I've added some duct tape to the band housing just below where the blade comes out of the cover. This cause most of the dust to now fall inside of the track instead of on it.
I've seen pictures of the wire fanned out in a way to act as a brush for the wheels to clean the dust from them and also, what about the other member on here that posted his pic with a bucket to catch most of the dust that is made instead of letting it hit the ground? either seems like a decent way to cut down the the dust messing up the wheels on the track.
I think I seen one with a bucket hanging like mine but I'm not sure of the other one. Your welcome to post links. I'm going to send you a link to my G+. I'll have to check to see if I'm allowed to post it here before I do.
Oh one more thing. I went out to take you pictures & found another barring sticking. It is in my roller so I suggest popping the seals on these & adding some grease.
I would have to dig around to find the pictures I saw of the sweepers over the rollers to help prevent the dust buildup. I'm definitely going to inspect the rollers good once I get the mill here.
Quote from: Kingmt on November 13, 2015, 08:53:34 AM
Well looks like my time is up to be able to edit the first post.
Yup, that is correct. Funny you bring it up. Because of complaints of someone going back and editing posts that effect other peoples subsequent posts, basically altering Forestry Forum content, for the first time in 15 years the privilege to go back and correct a post at a later date has been lost to everyone, You now have a generous courtesy edit time, but after that is up, no more edits without an admin doing it for you.
I always figured you couldn't edit after someone replied.
Quote from: Jeff on November 13, 2015, 11:19:15 AM
Quote from: Kingmt on November 13, 2015, 08:53:34 AM
Well looks like my time is up to be able to edit the first post.
Yup, that is correct. Funny you bring it up. Because of complaints of someone going back and editing posts that effect other peoples subsequent posts, basically altering Forestry Forum content, for the first time in 15 years the privilege to go back and correct a post at a later date has been lost to everyone, You now have a generous courtesy edit time, but after that is up, no more edits without an admin doing it for you.
Fair enough. I hope that wasn't me. I go back & edit to correct typos or add information I forgot the first time. I do try to leave a note to point out the edit unless it is just a spelling correction.
Would the admin or moderator staff be willing to copy from those three post & add it to the original for easy reference?
It was you, and no, we have enough to do. It is totally unfair to your fellow members for you to make a post, then for them to make a post based on the previous posts, then you go back and make edits to your posts. I don't care if you date them or not. I think it might serve you well to find the link at the bottom of every page, and read the rules here. Your posting methods, no matter what your intent, are not going to fly here. Even the membership tried to point that out to you before this was brought to my attention.
No, because it doesn't make it easier to reference and follow the conversation and flow of the discussion.. Just the opposite, Nobody goes backwards while reading a thread. I'm not sure if this is the way you're used to doing things at other forums but why not try to fit in and stop mentioning you have a better way if you like it here. That would be considered respectful behavior where I come from.
Jeff has spent hundreds of hours making it easier for you to follow simple instruction. You won't even try to follow the step by step directions. You would just rather mention that isn't how you are going to do it.
OK
Thanks for pointing out I don't fit in. Sorry for the trouble I have caused.
You missed the point entirely. I told you a couple weeks ago to do your research before commenting further on the subject.
I don't know how else to respond. I've tried to choose my words wisely & respectfully & still get meet with hostility. Rather then getting to the point of being ban I'd rather just not post since it seems that the harder I try to be respectful the more offence is taken.
I'd assumed you meant to read the rules which I did. If I point out anything about the rules it is taken as disrespect.
In the end it isn't my house & my point of view isn't wanted which I'm fine with. I'm fine with enjoying others post with no input myself.
[/quote]
for the first time in 15 years the privilege to go back and correct a post at a later date has been lost to everyone, You now have a generous courtesy edit time, but after that is up, no more edits without an admin doing it for you.
[/quote]
That's kinda of a bummer. :( I go back and fix some of my grammer mistakes. I guess I better be fixing them faster now. ;D
I was looking at buying another log clamp or I guess what would be considered a log dog, how good is HF at items like that being purchased? Do they even do that since it isn't a regular product they sell?
Anyone with the HF mill do there own mill extensions? I purchased a 10ft stick of angle iron to do my own and was wondering who else has done it.
I made one for my mill using 3" channel. But i dont have a HF mill...
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 17, 2016, 10:44:43 PM
I made one for my mill using 3" channel. But i dont have a HF mill...
I have to cut the angle iron down to match the mill specs bc they aren't even demensions but other than that the biggest issue I have is my local area only has the square tubing in 20ft sticks and they want 135 for a stick.....not gonna happen haha. I'm thinking of just waiting the 4 or so weeks it takes HF to send out parts if it saves me some money. OR.....making my own out of 2 pieces of angle.
I made this extension so i could cut 16' boards for my HF mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_036.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_027.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_024.jpg)
How much length did you add to the mill in order to achieve the 16' capability?
I took the channel iron and cut it in half for the sub-frame but I don't remember how long I made the angle rails.
My mill is down at my new 10 acre property so I can't measure it.
Just measure the saw head at the blade at the start of the rails and at the end and add how ever much length you want to cut.
Add about a foot more than the board length that you want to cut so log placement isn't too critical.
Oh, I have already purchased and cut my extensions. I was just wondering out of curiosity how much you added to get your 16' cut. I'm only adding 5ft to my mill but it will give me the capability to cut 10-12ish feet which is all I want and need.
I will say I have since started to rethink my extension plans bc of how cheap the angle iron was to purchase. At $33 for a 10ft stick it's tough to not go ahead and buy 2 more sticks that way I can get a uniform rail system instead of having to weld up the area where the HF rail connects with bolts..... decisions decisions. :)
Just got my HF mill over the holidays too, been looking at my options for extending it and making a trailer base for it.
Have you set the mill up yet? If so, made any cuts? You'll be very surprised how well this HF mill performs.
MrPorter,welcome to the forum. What's the lumber going to be used for?
Quote from: StimW on January 18, 2016, 06:47:10 PM
I made this extension so i could cut 16' boards for my HF mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_036.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_027.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35730/SAW_MILL_024.jpg)
What size channel did you use for the trailer build?
Hello MrPorter, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Adding your location to your profile helps with questions.
I found some 20' angle off a highline. Three sticks for $150. Two of them let me cut 18' logs. Going to cut the other one and make my tracks a little longer. Like to cut 21' or so. I've had some problem with
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16896/DSCN0008.JPG) the head dropping as I cut. Been clamping the tube with a vice grip for now. Works but an extra step.
Man that is nice! The more I think about it the more I believe I'm just gonna go with buying to sticks to make sure all stays true. I've had slight issues with the head dropping on me to this point but I'm gonna see what I can do to fix that issue soon.
Nice work on the extension. Did you modify the angle iron extension? The vertices part of my rails seem to be 2 1/2" high and look to be milled square on top. I'm wanting to extend my mill as well. Any information would be appreciated before I order my angle iron.
As A HF owner, this thread is of keen interest
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43718/20161201_150736.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1482434020)
The Most common flaws would be the diving.. the brass bearing on the handle and the Stock blade...
But what I've cut and my needs, this is a great bargain.
Now, if I start getting calls for more and more production with bigger logs, I'll definatley upgrade.
Quote from: Sidejobrob on February 21, 2017, 11:16:25 AM
Nice work on the extension. Did you modify the angle iron extension? The vertices part of my rails seem to be 2 1/2" high and look to be milled square on top. I'm wanting to extend my mill as well. Any information would be appreciated before I order my angle iron.
Sidejobrob you might want to check out this thread
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,90230.0/all.html
Grouch made an extension on his
The biggest flaw i have found is the lack of a second Log clamp
I sometimes saw 6 or 8 ft pieces and its an adventure to say the least to keep the log from pivoting with the blade.
I have heard that a sponsor of the board wont sell parts for the HF saw.. and they have that right (or priveledge).. so im trying to think of a way to make a homemade one out of readily available non-weld parts..
Some possibilities are conduit tubing.. but the adjustable spike is the question.
This vid can be in this thread too... my woodland mills bandwheel bearings went and I made a vid. ...should be nearly identical to the HF mill
https://youtu.be/8YDQdnIepKE
check out the rest of my youtube channel for other mill vids, they will help with ideas for mods, in particular the lube system is a good thing to step up
also, I saw mostly pine and have had good luck lately with the Cooks excel blades. They ship me 10 blades for $165 ... and they cut pretty nice. ...should work for the HF mill too
Quote from: mattyo5 on March 02, 2017, 12:07:17 AM
also, I saw mostly pine and have had good luck lately with the Cooks excel blades. They ship me 10 blades for $165 ... and they cut pretty nice. ...should work for the HF mill too
What degree angle blades, size?
pretty sure its these
http://store.cookssaw.com/band-blades/blades-for-harbor-freight-sawmill/
when you call to order just tell them you want the same thing as some guy named Matt from Connecticut hehe
I did the other side... driven side ... will likely apply to the HF mill too:
https://youtu.be/wsZbRuSpPFQ
Love to hear if anyone found a source for adding log dogs, or designed their own? I have a swing blade mill (newly mine), so I am getting into log management for sure, especially since I am starting out with some really short stuff, trouble for band millers, too.
Sorry to hear that one of the sponsoring mill makers will not sell such parts to Harbor Freight mill owners. It's likely not Cooks since they appear to sell band saw blades to all for all mills.
[Log] dog in the manger? ;)
I am perplexed at the originator of the thread being so unwilling to use the FF system for photos, and it diminished his now discontinued contributions. No troubles with uploading and referencing photos in posts, so far, on my part.
Old thread, but still good.
You can buy all the LOG CLAMP pieces from the HF mill #63266 parts list. It's parts #83 thru 89 and is ~$125. HF Sawmill Parts List (https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/parts/P62366.pdf)
Some of the non-HF sawmill brands sell extra log clamps for range of $79-$135 each. Few different designs. Some may adapt better to the HF mill.
Woodland Mills has a low-profile cam-style one that bolts up similar to the HF version for $99. I may give it a whirl for a 2nd & 3rd clamp for long and/or squirrely logs.
I already mowed the handle of my HF clamp once. I also plan to convert it from a crank-handle to a sliding pin like a C-clamp or vice.
Woodland Mills Clamp (https://woodlandmills.com/quick-log-clamp/)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71065/WM-clamp.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1672944819)
I'm building a trailer for my HF mill and found 2 sticks of 3x4x7/16" x 20' rail for $250 total. Needed a wider track groove on my rollers. When I chucked the HF wheels onto my Clausing lathe, I discovered the thickness of the HF wheel is inconsistent. One end is 0.012" thicker than the other -- they wobble at RPM. The groove OD and the bearing are concentric, but the roller thickness is wonky. The steel is pretty soft as well.
HF wheel / roller info:
- The axle is a M20x100mm bolt
- Overall size is 3.5" OD x 3" track OD with an H-type groove to accommodate the 5/16" (8mm) rail supplied with the mill.
- Width of wheel is 1" (25mm).
If you're looking to replace your HF sawmill gantry roller/wheels, there isn't much out there. Hud-son makes a $25-$30 roller (p/n 976-019) that's 3.5" OD and has a 0.33" groove (would fit HF's 5/16" rails), but their bearing is for a 3/4" shoulder bolt (19mm). This looks like it will work for the original HF sawmill, but would require to swap in a non-standard (but available) 20x40x12mm bearing to fit the HF metric bolt. They've been making this same roller for 20yr.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71065/Capture.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1675871253)
Cooks sells some that are small. Also some on ebay that are small. "Track rollers" are overkill and priced as such.
Best place to find other alternatives is searching Amazon for a "sliding gate wheel" or "sliding gate roller". These have a pretty decent load capacity and are typically equipped with standard sized sealed roller bearings. Most of these wheels are V-groove. Look for items that list or show the bearing # to make sure either your M20 bolt will fit, or if you can swap the bearing out to a larger ID. Most bearings with a 20mm ID are either 35mm OD or 52mm OD.
-Dan