There is plenty of advise here as to different ways of approaching things which I whole-heartedly appreciate. Thank you! I am curious though ... what is the best advise you can offer someone just starting out as to the pitfalls to avoid. In my case it would be from a milling perspective.
Never procrastinate in stickering your lumber.
You WILL eventually need a bigger shed to stack your lumber. We all do ;D
Don't forget to take the fenders off your mill before you use the hydraulics.
Remember to put said fenders back on before putting the rig in reverse!!! ::)
Do not go to deep into debt from the get go,
don't give too much away unless you can afford it
try to get rid of the waste,(slabs and dust) for any profit you can, this is money
don't cheat yourself just to get more business, it's a business
highest quality possible for the requirements of the job. more to say on this but you will figure this out
say what you can do, and then do what you say, (leave wiggle room) logs are logs, experience is required for this
be flexible, situations change, learn how to adjust, and learn how to say no at times, unless you go to no.2
be prepared for some very strange folks with even stranger requests, that have no idea of what they really want.
many more as mentioned, I was told when I started, and it follows like this,," It's hot and it's cold"
Quote from: isawlogs on February 17, 2016, 01:48:15 PM
Remember to put said fenders back on before putting the rig in reverse!!! ::)
remember to raise the front jack before going in forward, said jack will shear off at he first bump
a mile down the road skid over and line up perfectly and blow a tire.
DONT SAW OFF YOUR LOG STOP
...oh wait, all sawyer have let there mills taste a little metal in their day, the good ones are better about lying to cover up the occurance.
Quote from: LittleJohn on February 17, 2016, 03:03:43 PM
DONT SAW OFF YOUR LOG STOP
...oh wait, all sawyer have let there mills taste a little metal in their day, the good ones are better about lying to cover up the occurance.
OUCH! Yes, sadly I've done this! LOL....wasn't too happy at the time but I know I'm in the club and am not alone! :o
Quote from: drobertson on February 17, 2016, 02:55:41 PM
Do not go to deep into debt from the get go,
don't give too much away unless you can afford it
try to get rid of the waste,(slabs and dust) for any profit you can, this is money
don't cheat yourself just to get more business, it's a business
highest quality possible for the requirements of the job. more to say on this but you will figure this out
say what you can do, and then do what you say, (leave wiggle room) logs are logs, experience is required for this
be flexible, situations change, learn how to adjust, and learn how to say no at times, unless you go to no.2
be prepared for some very strange folks with even stranger requests, that have no idea of what they really want.
many more as mentioned, I was told when I started, and it follows like this,," It's hot and it's cold"
Thanks D. I have been a self employed remodeling contractor most of my life and I know it's the little things we learn through experience that, if shared, become some of the most valuable advise to someone without the said experience. Just the other day I taught someone that was painting trim to use the back of their brush to cut in instead of the side of their brush. It seems like a little thing but it increased their productivity by 100%. What you shared above helps. Thank you!
Quote from: isawlogs on February 17, 2016, 01:48:15 PM
Remember to put said fenders back on before putting the rig in reverse!!! ::)
How about remember to put the fenders on before leaving the job site.
Is the milling perspective you mention, still that of chain slabbing?
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 17, 2016, 05:56:56 PM
Is the milling perspective you mention, still that of chain slabbing?
Terrific, I had to modify my business plan a bit. The slabs I want to deliver are very high end which requires a high end kiln ... one of Dennis'. I just can't get financing for it right now so I am going the swing blade route to harvest lumber in order to satisfy some of the lenders requirements for a year or so then go the slab-kiln route. Thanks for asking
Is that Den, on the drying board? ps. did you get a swing mill yet?
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 17, 2016, 06:14:07 PM
Is that Den, on the drying board? ps. did you get a swing mill yet?
Yes it is Den on the drying board. Great guy! I have not purchased a swing mill yet. Tonight or tomorrow is the plan. Yes-no?
Quote from: OlJarhead on February 17, 2016, 03:59:40 PM
Quote from: LittleJohn on February 17, 2016, 03:03:43 PM
DONT SAW OFF YOUR LOG STOP
...oh wait, all sawyer have let there mills taste a little metal in their day, the good ones are better about lying to cover up the occurance.
OUCH! Yes, sadly I've done this! LOL....wasn't too happy at the time but I know I'm in the club and am not alone! :o
Yes. I did it on my second day of milling. Why put it off? :D
Do not let your slabs and sawdust get ahead of you. Deal with them promptly. It can be hard to stop and clean up when you're in the middle of a job but develop good habits early so you don't end up with a disaster. Remember, actual sawing is the small part of the job.
Clevelander first good luck on expanding your business.
One small thing I would like to add is If you do custom sawing for the public keep your standards high.
Do a search on dealing with the pith.Too much juvenile wood on one side is going to result in bowing after it dries.
Some cants will move while sawing.Keep flipping until you get the tension down.
I have had boards that due to tension were thick or thin on the ends at times.Some customers will tell you it"s fine but that lumber represents you and your determination to produce a quality product.
That stack of lumber has your name and reputation all over it.I will end trim until the final product suits my standards.After all you never know when a fine sawyer may happen by and say who did this.Al
Don't make your drying stacks too wide. 4' wide is good for most species. Otherwise, there could be air flow issues and staining of your lumber. Don't sticker your boards more than 24" between stickers. 16" is better. A good stickering job results in nice flat lumber, all things being equal.
This is all great stuff guys! Thank you.
It is the little things you don't even know you don't know that make such a difference to the overall product. I'm not half-ass ... that's why I'm here. I have always wanted to do this, now I am. I intend to do it right and all of you play a role in that. I appreciate that.
Quote from: WDH on February 17, 2016, 08:27:12 PM
Don't make your drying stacks too wide. 4' wide is good for most species. Otherwise, there could be air flow issues and staining of your lumber. Don't sticker your boards more than 24" between stickers. 16" is better. A good stickering job results in nice flat lumber, all things being equal.
WDH ... thanks for the input. I have a couple of questions regarding the stickers
Should the stickers be the same species as the wood being dried
Is the typical sticker thickness 1x1
I intend to sell most of my lumber to green market buyers as soon as I cut it but I do realize, depending on pickup timing, I might have to sticker it. Reputation is everything so I want to make sure I establish an exceptional one right from the start.
Thanks for the sentiments and the advice Slider. Reputation is the real reason the next customer shows up, isn't it?
Species is not important, but the stickers have to be dry. Green stickers can cause sticker stain. For most species, I like 1" x 1" stickers, especially for stain prone species like pecan, yellow poplar and maple where you need good air flow.
Quote from: WDH on February 17, 2016, 10:34:05 PM
Species is not important, but the stickers have to be dry. Green stickers can cause sticker stain. For most species, I like 1" x 1" stickers, especially for stain prone species like pecan, yellow poplar and maple where you need good air flow.
Thank you sir.
Don't play leapfrog with a unicorn ;D
Create a checklist to help to you remember to take all the stuff you may need. Paint tools like axes, cant hooks, chains bright orange so they don't get lost in the grass.
If you make a mistake, own it and do the right thing.
Quote from: Sixacresand on February 17, 2016, 10:48:57 PM
Create a checklist to help to you remember to take all the stuff you may need. Paint tools like axes, cant hooks, chains bright orange so they don't get lost in the grass.
Good point. Also establish and follow a safety routine to lay out and keep your fire extinguisher in the same spot for every job before starting and make sure everyone in the area knows where it is located.
Also your routine should include raising the side dogs before loading your log as soon as you remove the last board - Its lots easier and safer than picking up a log that rolled off the other side.
Keep your tools in the same place where they are handy as needed - mine include a couple of cant hooks, ATF, leaf blower, carpenter square, tape measure, ear muffs, gloves, etc. If you are consistent in this any missing item will be immediately obvious (Same reason military have each member in the unit load/wear/carry their gear in the same spot - anything out of place stands out so you don't forget something in a rush).
Never use swear words no matter much your smashed finger hurts.
No wisdom to share, just some good luck wishes :)
For me cedarmans advice is impossible.
dont forget to strap the fuel tank down before achieving highway speeds.
dont back the head into the clamp on return.
dont run the chainsaw into the cross piece on the loading arms.
dont run the head all the way down the mill without the jacks lowered.
dont run your hand into the swing out bed support when sliding a board fast.
I could go on and on.
Quote from: Cedarman on February 18, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
Never use swear words no matter much your smashed finger hurts.
I remember a customer who looked at his finger and said "it will grow back".
Once you're into the mill and no longer nervous, establish a nice pace, don't get in a hurry!
No one mentioned: Don't take any wooden nickels!
Best of luck, be careful.
Don't take wood for payment.
Quote from: valley ranch on February 19, 2016, 07:13:21 PM
No one mentioned: Don't take any wooden nickels!
Best of luck, be careful.
Why not?
Depending on the wood specie and the laser design, they might be worth more than a shiney new nickle.
Gerald
Never ever ever never ever never work on your mill or move a board or do anything near a running blade.
Always wait for the blade to stop moving before doing anything!!!!!!!!
Quote from: Cedarman on February 18, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
Never use swear words no matter much your smashed finger hurts.
Surprisingly, I was able to control my tongue....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29506/IMG_1084.JPG)
Don't stick your finger in the holes on leveling legs of a WM mill and pull the locking pin while distracted....
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on February 21, 2016, 04:10:24 PM
Quote from: Cedarman on February 18, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
Never use swear words no matter much your smashed finger hurts.
Surprisingly, I was able to control my tongue....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29506/IMG_1084.JPG)
Don't stick your finger in the holes on leveling legs of a WM mill and pull the locking pin while distracted....
You should do all four to keep the color the same.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 21, 2016, 04:16:53 PM
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on February 21, 2016, 04:10:24 PM
Quote from: Cedarman on February 18, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
Never use swear words no matter much your smashed finger hurts.
Surprisingly, I was able to control my tongue....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29506/IMG_1084.JPG)
Don't stick your finger in the holes on leveling legs of a WM mill and pull the locking pin while distracted....
You should do all four to keep the color the same.
There's 5 of'em on my hands.
When moving logs, never use you leg to brace a log from rolling. Don't allow your help or the client to do so either.
Quote from: drobertson on February 17, 2016, 02:55:41 PM
Do not go to deep into debt from the get go,
don't give too much away unless you can afford it
try to get rid of the waste,(slabs and dust) for any profit you can, this is money
don't cheat yourself just to get more business, it's a business
highest quality possible for the requirements of the job. more to say on this but you will figure this out
say what you can do, and then do what you say, (leave wiggle room) logs are logs, experience is required for this
be flexible, situations change, learn how to adjust, and learn how to say no at times, unless you go to no.2
be prepared for some very strange folks with even stranger requests, that have no idea of what they really want.
many more as mentioned, I was told when I started, and it follows like this,," It's hot and it's cold"
Absolute excellent advice. I've seen so many businesses go into debt then later fail because they couldn't sell product to pay bills. Start off slow, build as the work comes in, only take risks that are almost 100%. Investing your profit into your business to sell more product is an excellent investment. Many times you can make 100% profit. Take the small jobs just like the big ones, just don't price them the same. You can do well on small jobs.
AWESOME insight guys. Thank you all! Had to go to Cincinnati for a few days to make progress on my dads estate but, while I was gone ... I ORDERED MY MILL! I took Drobertsons advice and paid cash. It was tough though ... I came across another one that was a good deal with more features but I just had to decline. It was more cash than I had. I got a 10" Lucas. No accessories for now (except the retipping kit). I figured I'll get them when I have a job that will pay for them.
DR ... I did keep hearing that voice in my head saying, "remember, don't go into debt," ... and I must say, it was tough, I like bells and whistles, but there isn't any sense in asking for advice and then not using it when you know it's sound advice.
Congrats on your sawmill and also upcoming sawing. 8)
Do not run over large open end wrenches laying in the middle of the highway while towing your brand new mill (on the way to its first mobile job). The truck will sling it up and skin a bunch of paint off the control box, put a nice dent in the radiator guard, and scare you very badly.
Good thing they put a heavy guard on the radiator, otherwise I would have had to replace the radiator and fan before making my first dollar with that machine.
Also never lay your tape measure down on the main rail on the mill. The mill head will catch it and slam it into the first available bunk and bust your tape all to pieces.
Quote from: ncsawyer on February 24, 2016, 11:46:34 AM
Do not run over large open end wrenches laying in the middle of the highway while towing your brand new mill (on the way to its first mobile job). The truck will sling it up and skin a bunch of paint off the control box, put a nice dent in the radiator guard, and scare you very badly.
Good thing they put a heavy guard on the radiator, otherwise I would have had to replace the radiator and fan before making my first dollar with that machine.
Also never lay your tape measure down on the main rail on the mill. The mill head will catch it and slam it into the first available bunk and bust your tape all to pieces.
LOL. Oh no! I really do feel everything happens for some sort of reason but when random things like that happen you can't help but think, "now what possible reason could there be for that?"
Glad you're safe, guess it could always have been worse. Thanks for sharing ;)
I can't beleive no one has mentioned keys. Am I the only one that has loaded his truck with every tool and blade known to man and drove over an hour and left the sawmill keys at home.
Quote from: Sawmill Man on February 24, 2016, 03:07:32 PM
I can't beleive no one has mentioned keys. Am I the only one that has loaded his truck with every tool and blade known to man and drove over an hour and left the sawmill keys at home.
That'll grind your gears for sure! I can honestly say I haven't done that YET. Of course I always leave my keys in the mill.
dont sweat the small stuff and its all small stuff ;D and believe me there is lots of small stuff going to happen around a sawmill :D :D :D
Quote from: Sawmill Man on February 24, 2016, 03:07:32 PM
I can't believe no one has mentioned keys. Am I the only one that has loaded his truck with every tool and blade known to man and drove over an hour and left the sawmill keys at home.
Never done it!
Suggest you get a copy made and using a zip-tie, hide it somewhere on the mill! ;)
My sawmill key stays in my work truck along with all of the other stuff. I can't saw without it either.
I have on of those little magnetic boxes that I keep a spare Key in and it is "strategically Located" so that i am never with out a key for the mill.
in 2011, I drove from Oregon to AZ to pick up my new TK-2000. parked the TK-2000 in front of my AZ house while i went to Harbor Freight to get a different trailer hitch.
while i was gone someone in a Pickup truck drove by the mill, saw there was no tongue lock on it and started to back up to steal it.
My renter was standing in the front yard watching.
the truck driver saw her and then sped away.
the lessons i learned are:
Do not leave the mill in a public area unattended
get a Good tongue lock.
acknowledge the help given.
think BEFORE you act. that one i am still learning.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/GEDC0032.JPG)
What would be a good toung lock? Most reviews say a couple blows with a hammer and they are off.
Quote from: Upper on February 24, 2016, 06:32:09 PM
What would be a good toung lock? Most reviews say a couple blows with a hammer and they are off.
I put a hitch ball in mine and put a padlock on the hitch. Works well.
Quote from: Darrel on February 24, 2016, 10:15:41 PM
Quote from: Upper on February 24, 2016, 06:32:09 PM
What would be a good toung lock? Most reviews say a couple blows with a hammer and they are off.
I put a hitch ball in mine and put a padlock on the hitch. Works well.
smiley_thumbsup
Quote from: 4x4American on February 24, 2016, 10:28:20 PM
Quote from: Darrel on February 24, 2016, 10:15:41 PM
Quote from: Upper on February 24, 2016, 06:32:09 PM
What would be a good toung lock? Most reviews say a couple blows with a hammer and they are off.
I put a hitch ball in mine and put a padlock on the hitch. Works well.
smiley_thumbsup
Not sure what you guys are calling a tongue lock. Is that the hole under the lever so you can't unlock the lever? I put a lock or pin in there while traveling as a precaution to keep the lever from lifting allowing the trailer to bounce off the ball.
I use a coupling lock like a dummy ball that fits up in the coupling with a big U-bolt that slides down into holes on both sides and locks. I am sure it could be defeated with the right tools and enough time but at least that makes noise and is suspicious activity.
He's using "tongue" a little more vaguely than you are reading it I believe lol
I did the tape measure smashing trick one time. It was one of those I just can't believe what I saw just happened moment.
When sawing cookies, never put your fingers over the top to hold the cookie on. I heard someone did that and lost a few finger joints.
If you have setworks, do not hit the down lever as you are sawing through a log :).
Quote from: WDH on February 25, 2016, 07:14:15 AM
If you have setworks, do not hit the down lever as you are sawing through a log :).
Now I know I am the only one to have done this,, :D It sure makes a nice little step in the cant and board :D
Quote from: WDH on February 25, 2016, 07:14:15 AM
If you have setworks, do not hit the down lever as you are sawing through a log :).
:o especially if your saw 16/4 stuff :o :o :( luckily it only cost one blade ::)
Quote from: WDH on February 25, 2016, 07:14:15 AM
If you have setworks, do not hit the down lever as you are sawing through a log :).
Don't even do it if you don't have set works!
If you disconnect the speaker wire to the debarker, always make it a habit to look at the debarker wheel before you walk in front of the headrig, and if it's spinning, go put the drum switch in neutral. I was going to look at the growth ring orientation up close one day and the debarker was spinning and touched me in the back, like an old friend saying hello. Luckily I was wearing spenders and it hit right on the leather part where they connect in the back and it barely did any damage, but I felt it and it was a close call. It's a good thing I have thick skin lol
Quote from: Upper on February 24, 2016, 06:32:09 PM
What would be a good toung lock? Most reviews say a couple blows with a hammer and they are off.
I have gave this thought and know someone who had a mill stolen. I am going to take the hitch off the saw and replace it with a receiver just like you have on your truck and them make a pined hitch that is removable.
Don't drop the rear landing gear all the way before removing the front off the ball (It is awful hard to pick up the whole mill from the front end). Also don't try to lift the head front end without the back landing gear at least partway down or you may find the mill on the rear end with the tongue 6-7 feet up in the air and related problems getting it down as well as possible damage.
This is great, thank you! I started this thread on a serious note but I can't help but laugh at so many of the mistakes I am about ready to make. ;D
:D :D :D
At least you know what is coming, so you won't be surprised ;D.
Bad thing is that you will still probably do these things anyway :). Hopefully not all of them.
Make sure your blade has not been inverted before putting on the mill.
Once you have done one of the "stupid" things once, try never to do them twice.
Quote from: Sawmill Man on February 24, 2016, 03:07:32 PM
I can't beleive no one has mentioned keys. Am I the only one that has loaded his truck with every tool and blade known to man and drove over an hour and left the sawmill keys at home.
Not my mill (yet) but my cabin. I once drove all 250 miles to the cabin only to realize I'd left my keys back home!!! I have two rigs I drive and had jumped into one and taken off all loaded up. Fortunately for me I found a broken spare and had Ace make me a new one but I immediately made extras and put one in my laptop bag that is ALWAYS with me.
When the new mill arrived I put one key on my main cabin key ring (with my tractor key on it also) and the second is going in my 'mill' tool box.
Speaking of which: put together a separate took kit just for the mill. In that box I have every possible tool I might need to work on the mill (sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, hammer, levels etc etc). I also keep a large rubbermade 'action packer' I call my 'mill box' that I keep extra gloves, hearing protection, eye protection, ATF, engine oil and manauls in along with my clip board that holds my job paper (I log each log milled and what comes out of it), scale paperwork (I keep one premade Int 1/4 scale sheet and one Int 1/4 scale plus 15% sheet that I used to scale each log before milling -- I use these to guestimate what I should get out of the log and have a 3rd sheet that has log size to cant size charts in it just in case I want to see what a specific size should produce).
Perhaps because I've only been milling some 5 years now and only i4 on a bandmill I write in my log the size of the log DIA Small End, expected cant, expected BF and produced lumber. I keep another spot on the log for flitches that I edge at the end of the day and include in my BF total. When I'm done I can give the customer a BF total for the day though i don't know I need to.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 17, 2016, 01:37:13 PM
Don't forget to take the fenders off your mill before you use the hydraulics.
Where were you a year ago??????? First thing I did was smash my fender, 5 minutes after starting my mill for the first time...... :(
Quote from: woodworker9 on February 26, 2016, 04:12:08 PM
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 17, 2016, 01:37:13 PM
Don't forget to take the fenders off your mill before you use the hydraulics.
Where were you a year ago??????? First thing I did was smash my fender, 5 minutes after starting my mill for the first time...... :(
lol lol lol same here! Made a battle scar there I did! It'll buff out lol
OlJarhead Sir:
I have only one vehicle that is capable of moving the mill so in the glove box of that vehicle is where I store the spare sawmill key so If I forget the key I still have one.
When I bought the sawmill I also bought a new red tool box (could not find an orange one) just for sawmill parts and tools. So when I go a sawing I bring my normally in the truck tool box and the sawmill tool box.
The sawmill tool box has the gauge for checking the drive belt tension, the blade adjustment tool, a set of spare B57's, guide arm drive sprocket spring pins (if you ever have to change one of those little pins* you had better not be alone, have taken a healthy dose of patience, and not be all thumbs, etc.), lube mizer fuses, fuse blocks, and numerous other small parts.
*Mr. Goat claims he can change it in just a few minutes, however I've broken more than one of those pins and they took me hours to get fixed up. The only thing I can think of is maybe he is a very lucky individual.
When I buy parts depending on the piece part cost determines on how many I purchase. Lost time is expensive especially when it is for a 10 cent part.
Another suggestion for you is to find a container that you can modify and slide over the guide arm motor and attach it somehow to protect the wires that exit out of the back and drive that motor. Somehow, one of the two wires on mine broke and fixing that was a bear. Motors have magnets and trying to put it back together (metal screws) was a royal PAIN.
Cheap grease is better than nothing, but expensive grease help the bearings last a lot longer. When you add in the cost of your time and the aggravation to change bearings, expensive grease is cheaper than cheap grease.
Just my 2 cents and some things I thought you might want to consider based on your comment about forgetting the keys.
Gerald
I would have agreed about the roll pin, until this week. The blade guide arm was acting erratically since a previous job and I thought it was an electrical problem. I looked (with glasses and flashlight) and saw the pin was sticking out of the hole just a bit. I had the customer push the switch and saw that the motor was turning but the sprocket was not.
This fix took less than 5 minutes and was driven, honestly, at the moment by "In Goat I Trust". :D The fix was accomplished before they brought the next log to the mill.
I pushed on the arm until the gear position moved so the (broken) pin was positioned toward me.
I pushed hard on the pin with a small punch while customer helper touched the switch intermittently.
As the shaft turned in little increments, the broken piece of pin caught in the shaft hole. I tapped it in a bit.
Then I took a small nail punch and stuck it into the end of a new pin. I started the new pin in the hole and tapped on the punch till it started going in.
Then I took a flat bottomed punch and drove it in all the way. The pieces of the old pin fell out on the ground.
In the future I will have a 1/16" punch in my tool bag to aid in aligning the hole in case the broken pin falls out, or won't cooperate.
A roll pin punch makes changing roll pins a lot less painful. Do you have to take off the cover to see the roll pin? I haven't had to yet, knock on wood, and I hope I don't anytime soon,,
Not a good idea to lower the loader BEFORE you remove the left fender OR re-install it BEFORE you raise the loader.
I wont show you a picture of what I did to mine and it will only happen once especially the raising sequence.
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on February 27, 2016, 10:33:32 AM
Not a good idea to lower the loader BEFORE you remove the left fender OR re-install it BEFORE you raise the loader.
I wont show you a picture of what I did to mine and it will only happen once especially the raising sequence.
BB,
You sure don't need to send me a picture. I can just go look at mine to know exactly what your's looks like!
I have a TK mill not a WM mill.
How many hours where on the WM mill when the pin went bad?
maybe change the pin at a predetermined number of hours?
I am learning a lot from this forum and this thread.
Quote from: 4x4American on February 27, 2016, 10:20:44 AM
A roll pin punch makes changing roll pins a lot less painful. Do you have to take off the cover to see the roll pin? I haven't had to yet, knock on wood, and I hope I don't anytime soon,,
Yes, I neglected to say the cover was already removed. Requires loosening 2 of the 4 lower bolts to the tensioner. I leave it off mostly, this aids in my daily lube of the chain.
I'll have to sheck it out
Yea WV
Its one of those OOHHH CRAP moments and it takes a while to get it to look "sorta" decent again.
On that roll pin; I haven't had any problems since I installed the woodmizer upgrade kit about 800 hours ago. I asked my son the other day how hard it would be to put a micro limit switch on each end to stop the motor from turning a 1/4 inch from each end so as not to over turn that little sprocket when the guide hits the end of its travel.
He said he'd do it for me when I bring the mill in the shop as soon as it is not froze down in a week or so.
I was thinking of doing something similar myself
Someone else on here had the roll pin problem.
They replaced it with a set screw.
Said it fixed the problem.
My biggest mistake was jumping into forestry without a solid business plan. At the time I had a pile of work lined up and did not have enough experience (age) to understand the law of feast or famine. It really set me back...twenty years or more. I honestly could get into forestry full time now, but with a lucrative job, I am honestly afraid to leave that security blanket I call a paycheck because it is there every week even though I hate the job itself. (shipbuilding)
My advice: get with the small business administration and really crunch some numbers. Waiting a few months or even a year or two could make a huge difference. Instant gratification holds a lot more harm then it is given credit for.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 27, 2016, 04:53:37 PM
Someone else on here had the roll pin problem.
They replaced it with a set screw.
Said it fixed the problem.
This link will take you to Marty's posting of the upgrade kit for the roll pin to set screw.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,86342.msg1323099.html#msg1323099
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 27, 2016, 01:33:21 PM
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on February 27, 2016, 10:33:32 AM
Not a good idea to lower the loader BEFORE you remove the left fender OR re-install it BEFORE you raise the loader.
I wont show you a picture of what I did to mine and it will only happen once especially the raising sequence.
BB,
You sure don't need to send me a picture. I can just go look at mine to know exactly what your's looks like!
I hope you're smarter'n me. I hate to admit it, but I've done it twice. ::)
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 27, 2016, 10:04:11 AM
I would have agreed about the roll pin, until this week. The blade guide arm was acting erratically since a previous job and I thought it was an electrical problem. I looked (with glasses and flashlight) and saw the pin was sticking out of the hole just a bit. I had the customer push the switch and saw that the motor was turning but the sprocket was not.
This fix took less than 5 minutes and was driven, honestly, at the moment by "In Goat I Trust". :D The fix was accomplished before they brought the next log to the mill.
I pushed on the arm until the gear position moved so the (broken) pin was positioned toward me.
I pushed hard on the pin with a small punch while customer helper touched the switch intermittently.
As the shaft turned in little increments, the broken piece of pin caught in the shaft hole. I tapped it in a bit.
Then I took a small nail punch and stuck it into the end of a new pin. I started the new pin in the hole and tapped on the punch till it started going in.
Then I took a flat bottomed punch and drove it in all the way. The pieces of the old pin fell out on the ground.
In the future I will have a 1/16" punch in my tool bag to aid in aligning the hole in case the broken pin falls out, or won't cooperate.
terrifictimbersllc:
Thanks for the write-up. Next time it happens I'm going to try some of what you did. I do have a small nail set punch in the tool box. Hopefully my down time will be reduced.
Bandmill Bandit:
Thanks for the modification info. I may order it tomorrow via an email.
Again Thanks fellows,
Gerald
Hey Nomad
Touch WOOD (or my head)
So far so good only done it once.
Your very welcome Gab. There is a lot of to notch inf o on the forum and a lot of top notch people that contribute. Marty is a darn good WM rep.
Clevelander,
Don't remember seeing what kind of mill you have or plan to get but if a WM and you need to adjust those front and rear swing out rails be sure to loosen or remove both set screws in the bottom nut before adjusting them.
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on February 27, 2016, 10:33:32 AM
Not a good idea to lower the loader BEFORE you remove the left fender OR re-install it BEFORE you raise the loader.
I wont show you a picture of what I did to mine and it will only happen once especially the raising sequence.
When I bought my used mill, I was wondering what happened to that fender that made it look like that. Then one day I found out! :embarassed:
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 28, 2016, 10:24:12 PM
Clevelander,
Don't remember seeing what kind of mill you have or plan to get but if a WM and you need to adjust those front and rear swing out rails be sure to loosen or remove both set screws in the bottom nut before adjusting them.
WV ... I just ordered a Lucas 10-30 EFI. I am enjoying everybody's bandsaw woes way too much to let them know I'm not headed that way :) Most of what I'm going to be cutting is hardwoods over 36" in dia. so I figured this is the way to go. My master plan is to make and market high end slabs but in order to do so I need one of Dens kilns which I can't get a loan for yet. I needed a swing blade for the planer and sander attachments so I figured I'd start here and sell to the green hardwood buyers for a while.
Who makes the planer/sander attachments?
Quote from: 4x4American on February 29, 2016, 01:19:04 PM
Who makes the planer/sander attachments?
Lucas does. They are still available at Left Coast Supplies
Quote from: Clevelander on February 29, 2016, 12:54:21 PM
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 28, 2016, 10:24:12 PM
Clevelander,
Don't remember seeing what kind of mill you have or plan to get but if a WM and you need to adjust those front and rear swing out rails be sure to loosen or remove both set screws in the bottom nut before adjusting them.
WV ... I just ordered a Lucas 10-30 EFI. I am enjoying everybody's bandsaw woes way too much to let them know I'm not headed that way :) Most of what I'm going to be cutting is hardwoods over 36" in dia. so I figured this is the way to go. My master plan is to make and market high end slabs but in order to do so I need one of Dens kilns which I can't get a loan for yet. I needed a swing blade for the planer and sander attachments so I figured I'd start here and sell to the green hardwood buyers for a while.
My reason for asking is that while many mistakes/lessons learned are common to all mills many others will only apply to certain mill types/designs. Enjoy.
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on February 27, 2016, 10:03:51 PM
Hey Nomad
Touch WOOD (or my head)
So far so good only done it once.
Your very welcome Gab. There is a lot of top notch info on the forum and a lot of top notch people that contribute. Marty is a darn good WM rep.
I for one appreciate Marty's contributions as well as many others.
Gerald
When setting a 6x10 with customer help get your hands free quickly before he drops it and it bounces back up and breaks your finger!
Quote from: OlJarhead on May 23, 2016, 12:46:08 PM
When setting a 6x10 with customer help get your hands free quickly before he drops it and it bounces back up and breaks your finger!
Works the same with your feet. When I first got my mill cut some scrappy logs up at my sons place 10 miles away. While moving a small, short log he dropped it on my big toe. If not broke might as well have been. Cost me a nail. To make matters worse a week later I went to pick up the mill and he was helping move the tongue and dropped the landing gear on the same toe. Steel toed shoes would have solved the problem both times.
Gotta getcha a pair of steel toed socks lol
They do make steel toe sneakers . Just dont wear them going thru airport security .
8) Finger is not broke after all...just badly sprained.
Still, watch your fingers! and toes too
Maybe get ya a new son!!! :D