This weekend was a little like Christmas morning around here. 8) My HM130 was delivered on Friday and I spent a good chunk of time unpacking and assembling the mill Saturday and Sunday. I'll post up some photos as I go along. This is my first mill and I'm sure there is some overlap in the design and assembly with the HM126 but being a new model I figured I'd document the process for anyone considering this mill.
First off, the delivery. With Woodland Mills gearing up to sell this mill I thought the turnaround time was good. It was exactly two weeks from when I sent off payment by mail to when the mill arrived. The mill left Buffalo on Tuesday and reached me in Western Wisconsin Friday (the distribution hub for delivery is in Minnesota).
Thankfully the that morning's torrential rains had stopped by the time the truck arrived in the afternoon.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130deliverytruck.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463368340)
A word of warning to anyone receiving one of these mills via curbside delivery. I don't know how much bigger the crate is than the HM126 but the driver struggled with it. It was too big to turn inside the truck. Most significantly, the spacing and placement of the studs in the pallet didn't allow the pallet jack to lift from the center, it had to be offset to one side or the other. With the jack offset, and the weight of the mill, one side or the other would drag. With the width of the crate filling almost the whole lift gate, and one side dragging it hung up on one of the hinges, partway onto the gate. At this point the jack handle is on the outside of the crate on the lift and the driver is inside attempting to push. The only way to slide the crate over the hinge and allow the gate to lower was to get a pry bar from my garage. The gate was angled slightly down and out due to the weight. I could tell what was coming and when I popped the pallet off the hinge dropped the bar and pushed back on the crate for all I was worth to keep it on the gate. Once the large "steering" wheels of the jack went off the gate the forks hit and the crate stayed on the gate, from there we got it to the ground without incident. Maybe I'm unlucky, or lucky, but if at all possible have some strong friends on hand if you run into the same issue. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130packaged.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463369030)
I was grateful the driver brought the crate down the driveway and into the garage where I planned to do the assembly. This allowed me to take my time in unpacking, I doubt I would have been able to move the whole crate otherwise. The crate shipped with an extra length of track on top, and 10 extra blades as well as fitted cover. This combo weighed in at 1186 lbs according to the shipping order. I was surprised at how relatively small the track box was but it was quite heavy by itself.
Once the smaller boxes were removed the mill head is laid down forward to start the assembly. It is on a wheeled platform that I used throughout the process.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130headunpack.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463369278)
The front vertical posts and the bottom brackets go on first so the mill can be stood up for the rest of the assembly. I'm getting ready to lift it so I've set cardboard under the brackets to not scratch them. There is no shortage of cardboard once you start unpacking. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130brackets.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463369507)
I was working alone and the mill is heavy even before you start adding pieces. Using an electric winch was a life saver several times, first seen here as I stood up the mill. I keep the winch in a crate I made for it so in some of the shots it just looks like a wood box with a hook sticking out of it. As I stood up the mill it sat on the cardboard but before going on I would lift it enough to set it back on the platform before proceeding.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130lift.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463369815)
While I could pick up the top crossbar it too was heavy. I was able to line it up just right with the winch and take my time placing the bolts through the uprights.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130topmount.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463370249)
Now it's really coming together with the cables routed, dashboard attached, lube tank attached and lines routed. Ignore the tennis ball, that's a parking gauge for my wife. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130almostthere.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463370695)
There are some gaps in the instructions, as I went back to the box and realized the ruler still needed to be assembled but that was pretty self explanatory. Once it was all together I lifted the mill head off the platform and turned to the track. Although I'm still determining a trailer before I put the track together I decided to put one section on the cart so I could line up the wheels correctly before tightening everything down. To keep it simple I only used two cross pieces and the stops since this will be coming apart when I do my trailer build. Here I have lifted the mill head and moved the platform with the track underneath it. This worked pretty slick as I could ease the head onto the track and see where I needed spacers (one on each of the forward wheels), then lift just enough to add the spacers, then ease it down on the track to test it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130liftwheeladjust.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463370977)
With the wheels set and everything tightened down I rolled the platform out into the sunshine for a couple more pics. Even though the mill didn't tip when rolled to each end of the stops I put the wood clamps on the track as an added measure of precaution. If this mill cuts as good as it looks I'll be happy with it for a long time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130frontoutside.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463371366)
Other side showing the controls etc.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130backoutside.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463372221)
With that I put the mill back inside and placed the new cover on it, now to make that trailer decision. Good thing I'm not planning to mill at home or I may still be out there trying it out. :D
One question I have for the FF members;
I notice when reading the manual it stresses taking the tension off the blade when done milling to prevent flat spots on the wheel belts. Is this something I need to do before use? I've made no adjustments to the blade tension and it will likely be a couple weeks before I do any cutting. The blade feels like it is under tension. Is this done for shipping to keep things stable? I don't want to mess up any factory settings but I also want to let it "breathe" if that's what it needs.
Thanks everyone, I'll put up more to this thread as I proceed and impressions of the mill as I get to using it.
You did a good job on the documentation of your mill assembly and thanks,yes back off the band tension......
Roundhouse
Wow!!!
Nice write-up and pictures.
Woodland is a very helpful company, if you have any questions I am sure they can help you out. The videos are very good too.
I am very happy with the HM126 I purchased last October. I make nice lumber with it and I had no prior experience. The quality of the mill is very good and the Kohler engine starts easy and has not skipped a beat so far.
I mill bug killed Ponderosa Pine right at the size limit of the mill throat all of the time and have not had the frame tweek from the weight. I am thinking about adding another section of frame rails to do 20' beams.
Good luck with your new mill, I can see Woodland made some nice improvements over the HM126.
Please continue posting about your adventures with the HM130.
squid
I've finally got an update to post. After a lot of research about pontoon trailers I narrowed my search to a particular manufacturer that builds with a design that I thought would work best for what I wanted to do. Some measurements were obtained from the manufacturer since like all pontoon trailer makers they are described and sold by the dimensions of the upper frame since that is what needs to fit the boat. What I really needed to know were the lower frame dimensions. I knew I could mount my track directly to that lower frame and get very close to the 19' 3" length needed by ordering a 22' trailer.
With the order in for a Wolverine trailer I had about a 2 week wait for it to arrive at the local dealer. Thursday it arrived and I picked it up, towed very nicely on the short trip home. At first I was quite dismayed that in selecting a 43" wide upper deck over the 47" option I wouldn't be able to remount the moving portion below the fixed frame like I had planned but upon further study the spacing of the brackets on a 22' trailer wouldn't allow that anyway. The design of my legs have been evolving quite a bit since. I will also use the top frame much as I had planned but only in semi-long term set ups where the axles are removed for convenience and security.
I had to snap a few photos in its as delivered form since there is a good chance it will never be set up like this again, or carry a boat, or go in the water:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/WolverineTrailer1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465617826)
By that night I had squeezed it into the shop, took a big gulp and started cutting, not the easiest thing to do on a brand new purchase but necessary. The pins on the upper frame brackets were welded on. After grinding away at a set in an attempt to pop them out I sped things up with the sawzall, I'll go back later to clean off the welds and ends of the pins. The trailer barely fit with the long overhang. Once the top frame was disconnected I lifted it out of the way suspended from the rafters, I'll go back to working on that at the end. This shows the tight quarters in the beginning but the top frame raised with my mill on a platform and the trailer:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/WolverineTrailer2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465618201)
I also unbolted the post at the front of the trailer that holds the crank, the crank will be remounted in a new position later and this allows me plenty of room to start the process of setting up the track on the trailer:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/WolverineTrailer3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465618471)
It's going ok so far. I did have a tense moment when I wasn't sure if the log stops would have room to adjust downward below the rails and still clear the trailer frame, ran out to check and they'll fit just right. I'm on to the bolting track together phase and have a trip or two to the hardware planned for this weekend. Stay tuned...
I see somebody else desperately needs to build some cabinetry. There's a winding, almost-pathway through my garage if you can step high and walk crazy. My son tells me it's tougher than the agility exercises they had in football. It's a fire hazard, a critter habitat hazard and a falling in a heap and getting lost hazard. Been trying to fix mine for over 2 decades.
Looks like you're not far from being mobile! I wouldn't have thought of using a pontoon boat trailer.
Is that top frame mostly angle and the part you're mounting the mill to rectangular tubing?
If you got a lot of metal cutting to do then do your self a favor and buy some cut off wheels for your grinder.
All looks good,and some good idea there.
I use metal cutting blades on my Makita circular saw.
Quote from: grouch on June 11, 2016, 03:08:05 AM
I see somebody else desperately needs to build some cabinetry. There's a winding, almost-pathway through my garage if you can step high and walk crazy. My son tells me it's tougher than the agility exercises they had in football. It's a fire hazard, a critter habitat hazard and a falling in a heap and getting lost hazard. Been trying to fix mine for over 2 decades.
Looks like you're not far from being mobile! I wouldn't have thought of using a pontoon boat trailer.
Is that top frame mostly angle and the part you're mounting the mill to rectangular tubing?
Haha! Thanks, it actually looks a little worse than it is in there. The "boss" keeps her car parked in there on the other side, the
stuff on the left hand side is all on two rolling platforms, when the car isn't in there it rolls over a bit for more room in the work area. All that
stuff on the right hand side is mostly mounted to/hanging from that wall.
Both frames are rectangular tubing. The upper portion is 2x3 tubing and the lower part I'm building on is 2x4.
I've used the cut off wheels on my grinder for lots of projects. For this I have almost no cutting needed. I did need the "reach" of a reciprocating blade to get inside the hinges to cut the pins out, I'll be making some mounting clamps but I won't need to cut or weld on the trailer or track at all.
smiley_clapping popcorn_smiley smiley_reading_book
Work continued over the weekend, here's a quick update on the trailer build.
I put together the track on top of the trailer to see how everything lined up and I wanted to make sure exactly where I wanted to mount the track. It's looking better and the mill head stands by waiting for the big moment when it can perch on the new rig:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465794289)
A look at the axles after I shifted them forward a bit, for balance and to better line up with the down travel of the bracing. It still surprises me how well this fits, the clearance for the wheels is close but adequate. In situations where I mill with the wheels in place they shouldn't really get in the way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465794507)
Next up was the most unpleasant task so far in the build. To provide spacing for the axle u-bolts and for the mounting bolts below the rail I decided to run rubber strips the length of the track. For the length and width I needed I decided to buy a stable mat and cut it into strips. At 3/4" thick it was very tough to cut. First I tried my circular saw, a lot of smoke, stink, and binding was the result. I had to finish the cut with my sawzall, not the greatest but it did cut it. Once cut down into pieces small enough to handle on the table saw I did that for a while. I made a mess there too eventually binding and blowing the circuit breaker. I finishing up with the reciprocating saw again then cut the 6' strips into the needed lengths. Here are the strips lined up on top of the rails to confirm sizes and placement.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465794811)
As I matched up the strips to the rails I realized I wasn't done cutting rubber. Where the rails meet up to each other there is a "joiner plate" that mounts below the rail. I would need to notch each strip that runs under a joiner to avoid creating a hump in the track at each joint or having a middle section that "floats" without a solid mating to the matting. It was late and I needed to sleep on this one to figure out exactly I was going to make these notches. I ended up clamping the strip to the fence on my table saw and raising the blade into it from each side, more stink, more mess.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465795084)
This shot shows how the notch corresponds to the plates visible below the rail here.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465795247)
The last step for preparing the strips was to drill holes for both the bolt heads under the rail and for the large bolts that will attach the track to trailer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer6.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465795410)
I had a spray paint on hand that was a decent match for the color of the mill so I used that to mark each hole before drilling the strip. Since all six rails are the same I only removed one to use on all the straps for marking the needed holes. Although I won't be using every mounting hole I drilled the strip in every location so they are available should they be needed later.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130trailer7.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465795586)
They feel like baby steps but I do want to set it up as close to how I want as possible.
On all the trucks I worked on between the body rails and chassis rail there was a spacer of hardwood usually oak. I would be worried about the rubber compressing as the head moves down the rail or from tightening the rail mounting bolts. Not sure how hard the rubber is but would consider milling up some oak spacers.
Why installing rubber strips? Per Woodland mills, it is best to mount 1"x1" tubing across the trailer and then bolt the track thru the tubing, thru the trailer. Or, line up the tubing with the track holes and weld the tubing in place to the trailer. Then bolt the track down thru the tubing.
Quote from: Timster on June 13, 2016, 10:55:54 AM
On all the trucks I worked on between the body rails and chassis rail there was a spacer of hardwood usually oak. I would be worried about the rubber compressing as the head moves down the rail or from tightening the rail mounting bolts. Not sure how hard the rubber is but would consider milling up some oak spacers.
Thanks, it's really quite dense. I'll be mindful to apply the hold down bolts evenly and study any deflection I get from the weight of the head. If I detect any issues I'll go with a hardwood spacer.
Oh, also about using rubber. Mix a little water in between your rails, rubber is carbon and it will create rust fast.
Quote from: fishfighter on June 13, 2016, 11:03:29 AM
Why installing rubber strips? Per Woodland mills, it is best to mount 1"x1" tubing across the trailer and then bolt the track thru the tubing, thru the trailer. Or, line up the tubing with the track holes and weld the tubing in place to the trailer. Then bolt the track down thru the tubing.
Here is my thinking. The way the mill track sits on the trailer it "straddles" it by being wider, the mounting holes are outside of the trailer. I like the idea of not drilling into the trailer rails (slightly weaken) or welding on the trailer rails (slightly warp). I'll be fabricating clamps that connect my bolts to the bottom of the trailer frame rails. I also like the idea of a tiny bit of extra vibration dampening built into the track/trailer given the distance I'll be transporting between home and my wood lot. I'm probably being overly cautious by not altering the trailer frame but the way things are lining up this method makes sense to me, not that I won't revisit it later.
Tip for cutting rubber, as in tires or stall mats: use brake fluid mixed with some water for a lubricant. Sawzall does a good job at low speed then or you can use a utility knife while bending the rubber to open the cut. Just keep dipping in the lube and be patient.
Finally, it's time for another update. Progress has been very slow but steady and summertime interruptions plentiful.
Once I had the rubber in place and the mill track aligned and bolted together I focused on mounting the track to the trailer frame. Originally I thought I'd be fabricating many clamps but instead used a series of angle irons running across both rails. They would become a resting place for my trailer legs when moving the mill, also a bracing point to lock the legs down when stationary. Still, I did make two sets of clamps for places where they worked better than an angle. One was a "single" set.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Milltrailersinglebrackets.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470066565)
The other set of clamps was a "double" set that would be used by a set of bolts where two tracks sections came together:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Milltrailerdoublebrackets.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470066700)
And a look at one of the single clamps after it was installed on the trailer:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Milltrailerbracketinstalled.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470066815)
After that came a lot of drudgery involving assembly of the legs (with feet) that would be used in the "landing gear" supports. It must not have been fun since I didn't take any pictures! After a couple weeks of sweat and metal shavings, last Saturday morning I had all the prep work done on the trailer and rolled it out of the shop into the sunshine again:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/SawmillTrailerRoadMode_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470067493)
In that photo all the legs are up in "travel" mode. I took the trailer out on the highway for a few miles to make sure everything pulled right and tracked well after all the construction, move of the axles, etc. If there were any issues I wanted to address them before placing the mill head but it pulled great. Three of the legs tuck up into the frame, the rear legs are set outside of the frame and swing up above it when not in use.
When setting up the trailer for milling, the first step is to drop each of the legs, then link each of the "feet" with a chain. In this photo the repurposed crank has been attached to the first leg but hasn't lifted the trailer yet:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/SawmillTrailerLegsLowered_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470074109)
With the cable drawn back by the crank all four legs press downward at the same time. Once the tires and the tongue jack lift off the ground the trailer is a stable platform for milling. In this photo the braces up front have been placed. This will allow the tension to be released from the front crank. When it's time to lower the trailer again the crank will lift it just enough to remove the braces, then lower it back onto the wheels:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/SawmillTrailerLegsLocked_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470074540)
More to come...
Congratulations, looks great. Don't get me wrong, I have a HM126 and love it. But after all the time and money you put into the trailer, couldn't you just have bought an LT15-GO?
Quote from: grouch on June 13, 2016, 12:29:36 PM
Tip for cutting rubber, as in tires or stall mats: use brake fluid mixed with some water for a lubricant. Sawzall does a good job at low speed then or you can use a utility knife while bending the rubber to open the cut. Just keep dipping in the lube and be patient.
A little late but for others in the future: I had to cut a LOT of stall mats for a big barn. They were 3/4 to 1" thick. I would place a 2x2 under my cut line and a 2x4 or 2x6 on each side with some weight on it, causing the mat to be flexed and under tension. Then I just used a razor knife/box cutter and sliced away. Probably 4-6 passes and was through - changing blades as necessary. Actually went quite quick.
Nice looking trailer. How is the stability side to side on those legs? I'm assuming you have a collection of planks to make up for any uneven ground. Are you going to use the remainder of the frame to make a bed extension, maybe something permanent at home?
Quote from: clintnelms on August 03, 2016, 04:41:52 PM
Congratulations, looks great. Don't get me wrong, I have a HM126 and love it. But after all the time and money you put into the trailer, couldn't you just have bought an LT15-GO?
That's a very good question and believe me I went around on that for quite a while. Ultimately I had saved just enough to buy the HM130, an extra section of track and pack of blades, just shy of 5K. A month later I was able to pay cash for the trailer at just over 2K. When I priced out the LT15-GO I was at 8K before I started buying extra blades. Within reach with a little borrowing although I was too tempted to upgrade the engine to 25 hp and a couple other upgrades, pretty soon I was looking at 10K. While I'm borrowing why not spend a little more and get an LT28. I was leaning toward the LT28 for a while.
I don't want to start any arguments but another factor was that for my purposes I liked the trailer I would end up with better by sourcing it separately. The mill will get some relatively long miles put on it and I really like the idea of having four tires under the mill. Also the trailer has two 3500lb axles. That's a lot of overkill but in the off season I expect to have to store some items with the mill/on the mill while in my garage. The other problem is that once I get an idea in my head about building something it's tough to not see it through.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 03, 2016, 05:49:37 PM
Quote from: grouch on June 13, 2016, 12:29:36 PM
Tip for cutting rubber, as in tires or stall mats: use brake fluid mixed with some water for a lubricant. Sawzall does a good job at low speed then or you can use a utility knife while bending the rubber to open the cut. Just keep dipping in the lube and be patient.
Nice looking trailer. How is the stability side to side on those legs? I'm assuming you have a collection of planks to make up for any uneven ground. Are you going to use the remainder of the frame to make a bed extension, maybe something permanent at home?
It's quite stable. There is an extra piece that clips to the front leg making it 42" wide (same width as the outside of the tires). The rear leg base is also 42" wide since it is always outside the frame and doesn't need to fit within the rails. My yard where I tried it is quite flat so it worked without any extra planks beneath. Also the legs can be extended in 1" increments to compensate for any slope front to rear if I end up setting up on a slight grade sometime.
I am planning to use the top part of the frame at my main milling location. The inner part of the adjustable legs are removable when the pins are removed, then I can pin the trailer to the "top" part of the frame and raise it on a very stable base.
It took so long to get everything set up I ended up making two trips to my woods in the meantime. The first trip I brought the steel palette "cage" that my mill had shipped in for future use as firewood slab rack. This was in a small trailer that I just hated to bring back empty. I tried not to overload it but decided to bring back a few short logs to try on the mill before hauling it anywhere. One of which I'd cut along my road and would be the first log on the new mill. A month ago I made a run with the skid steer trailer to get the loader moved to the right spot. I really hate to move that trailer empty since it whips back and fourth without a load. I took two nice straight maple logs back that I loaded up on the trailer before leaving.
Now I had some good wood to practice on here, but realized a week ago I didn't have the cant hooks here to handle the logs with. I did have an old hook bought years ago at a farm auction for a couple bucks. I dug it out and the handle was just about ready to crumble. It made a nice side project as I fitted a new oak handle for it, cleaned up the hardware and applied new paint. It works good too!
Before:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CantHookBefore_072816.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470066978)
After:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CantHookAfter_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470067168)
Just wait until you use your first Logrite. You will put that thing back up.
Quote from: WDH on August 04, 2016, 07:36:42 AM
Just wait until you use your first Logrite. You will put that thing back up.
Oh I'm sure I'll get there. As for now I'm trying to keep a somewhat low profile with the better half until I impress her with all the stuff made from milled lumber. The bug has bitten and I can see a day when there are a handful of Logrites and an LT40 in the stable. These days I'm enjoying the journey and all I learn here plus with my new mill.
I'm impressed with the pix and work you have put into this venture. I am sure the results will be a lot more personal to you because of the ground up efforts used. Looking at the trailer makes me wonder if you are planning to install and outrigger for extra stability.
All this also makes me appreciate my preassembled mill that much more. I don't have the experience or tools or shop space to do something like that.
Good luck to you and be careful.
So near the end of the day Saturday after I got the trailer out of the shop, checked it over, road tested it, hoisted the mill onto the trailer, checked it over, carefully set up the new engine, and moved the works to the back yard and I was very eager to finally make some sawdust. As the first milling I'd ever done I decided a baby log was appropriate.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130_FirstLog_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470232442)
Needless to say the little 9" dia x 4.5' maple didn't challenge the HM130 much but I didn't care, I had made my first cant!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130_FirstCant_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470074786)
After that I had my first board.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130_FirstBoard_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470232712)
Has anyone put up their first board the way some businesses do their first dollar? I'm still thinking about some suitable sign/use for it. It's exciting to see after a long time of planning, scheming, building.
It was a busy day but I didn't sleep all that well that night, I had two "real" logs ready to go the next day.
Way to go !!! Small successes are also important. 8)
Quote from: Roundhouse on August 04, 2016, 09:48:18 AM
Has anyone put up their first board the way some businesses do their first dollar? I'm still thinking about some suitable sign/use for it. It's exciting to see after a long time of planning, scheming, building.
That's a great idea. What about making your business sign out of it?
Quote from: Roundhouse on August 04, 2016, 09:48:18 AM
Has anyone put up their first board the way some businesses do their first dollar? I'm still thinking about some suitable sign/use for it. It's exciting to see after a long time of planning, scheming, building.
It was a busy day but I didn't sleep all that well that night, I had two "real" logs ready to go the next day.
Yep... Hung it on the mill...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/First_cut_sign.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470329432)
On to those "real" logs I was talking about. As I mentioned I loaded them easily with my skid steer but at home I lacked that capability. Instead I had to determine a different, more manual, method.
Years ago when I was starting to get into chainsaw carving I needed a way to get a log out of my pickup and then work on it. I built these large frame sawhorses that fit over the box of the truck, I could use straps to lift the log then drive out from under it. With the truck out of the way I would put the log down on some cribbing. One side of the horses are hinged so I can store them away against a wall. They have come in handy many times when taking a truck cap on or off by myself. The cribbing too has been very handy for may more uses than originally envisioned. Now I would try them for taking logs off my trailer in order to mill them. I had some concern about them being large enough. It turned out the legs touched the trailer fenders on each side but didn't bind and I was still able to drive the trailer out from underneath.
To make sure the legs didn't dig in due to the weight I laid boards down parallel to the trailer, the ramps have been removed to allow me to pull the trailer out:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload1_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470075635)
With the straps in place I rolled a log onto them and then raised it up off the bed of the trailer:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload2_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470163396)
With the trailer removed the log is suspended:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload3_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470163531)
The cribbing is positioned under the log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload4_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470166083)
I used the top three pieces of each cribbing with plywood underneath for stability. Each one also has a base piece with caster wheels underneath for use on the concrete shop floor.
With the straps released and the frames taken down my cribbing will be a mini log bunk until it's time to put it on the mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload5_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470166344)
Next I back the trailer up along side and repeat the process for the second log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/LogUnload6_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470166537)
Instead of going on cribbing this log went directly on the mill. Once the log was suspended and the trailer moved out of the way I came back with the mill and backed it under the suspended log, raised the mill to the log and removed the straps. As you can see, I ran out of daylight at this point, milling up this maple would have to wait until tomorrow:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130_LargeLog_073016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1470232938)
Pretty neat.
Looking at the first picture with your cribbing in the background, am I correct in assuming your cribbing is all bolted/nailed together? That would sure make setup fast! Before you pick up any heftier logs, I would suggest some diagonal struts on those legs to keep it from wanting to collapse on you. That looks pretty scary to me.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 04, 2016, 04:03:54 PM
Pretty neat.
Looking at the first picture with your cribbing in the background, am I correct in assuming your cribbing is all bolted/nailed together? That would sure make setup fast! Before you pick up any heftier logs, I would suggest some diagonal struts on those legs to keep it from wanting to collapse on you. That looks pretty scary to me.
Thanks, it's lag bolted into a square for each layer. At the bottom of each corner on each layer a large dowel extends out about a quarter inch and fits into a hole in the top of the layer below. The 3 layer pieces you see here go together quickly and come apart easily. If you look at the 5th picture you can see a yellow stripe on the cribbing that helps line up the pieces in the right order and orientation. There is a red stripe on the other set but I don't see it in any of the photos. I don't plan to go any bigger with this rig and 99% of my logs will be put on the mill where my machine is available for loading. As stable as it was I make sure not to go under the frames or logs when the log is up. The frame that looks to be bowing in fact has a permanent warp.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 04, 2016, 12:50:54 PMYep... Hung it on the mill...
That may be your first board, but if it is flat on both sides, it is not your first "cut". ;D
Quote from: Magicman on August 04, 2016, 04:55:57 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 04, 2016, 12:50:54 PMYep... Hung it on the mill...
That may be your first board, but if it is flat on both sides, it is not your first "cut". ;D
OK... First board out of my first log...
More good ideas.
Congrats sawing your first log.
After some more fabricating and too much waiting, there was finally some more action on the sawmill front last week. I traveled up to my woods with the mill, about 290 miles. I was very happy with how it towed, very stable on the two axles. Here is a picture from on the way:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130_rhinelander_101116.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476836399)
Once we were there and set up, some short tamarack logs were brought over to kick things off with stickers and timbers for under my piles.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/HM130tamlogs_101316.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476837060)
Once things were rolling I took down a nice straight pine to feed the mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/90footpine_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476838646)
With no limbs in the bottom 12 feet, there was some very nice wood in this first log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/12footlog_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476839907)
A whack of lumber on the skid loader is ready for the short trip over to the piles. It is sure nice to have all my equipment on hand to shuttle the logs and lumber to where they're needed:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/2x4sCL340.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476840544)
After working through a number of logs (including my first metal strikes that wrecked a blade), I had to test the outer limits of my set-up and cut a 20 foot log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/20footbeam_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476841645)
The last couple inches had to be trimmed by chainsaw:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/20footbeam3rdside_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476843064)
In October I always seem to be racing against darkness and so it was by the time I got the beams cut to size:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/20footbeamdone_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476843301)
Here is a better look at the extension I put together that rests on the tongue of the trailer, this buys me a couple extra feet of cutting for a long log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/RailExtensionOverTongue_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476843447)
Not the best picture of my lumber piles but 10 and 12 footers on the left and 8 footers on the right. They're put away under the tin and waiting for assembly into the sawmill shed:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/FinishedLumberStacks_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476845336)
It was a great few days of milling and putting into practice a number of the things I've learned here this year.
Roundhouse; looking very good. Thanks for the pictures. 8)
Terry
Great to see another HM130 in action. smiley_clapping
How does that extension work out for you? I plan on sincerely flattering you by doing the same for mine so that I have enough room to cut an 18' log. Could you perhaps answer a couple questions? What size angle iron is that, and did you put attachment plates on the side rather than the bottom? Thanks!
Edit: I think I just answered my last question. I bet the angle iron is not the same thickness so you can't use the attachment plate on the bottom. Attaching the plates on the side allows you to align the top edge at the height you need it to be so that the rollers move smoothly across the junction.
Quote from: Roundhouse on October 18, 2016, 11:54:51 PM
...
Here is a better look at the extension I put together that rests on the tongue of the trailer, this buys me a couple extra feet of cutting for a long log:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/RailExtensionOverTongue_101516.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1476843447)
...
Great thread! 8) Love seeing someone else enjoying our hobby :D
My first milled lumber went onto the face of my shed (milled by CSM)....my next stup went up inside the cabin :D
Thanks Guys! It's really getting fun now.
Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on October 19, 2016, 05:03:33 PM
Great to see another HM130 in action. smiley_clapping
How does that extension work out for you? I plan on sincerely flattering you by doing the same for mine so that I have enough room to cut an 18' log. Could you perhaps answer a couple questions? What size angle iron is that, and did you put attachment plates on the side rather than the bottom? Thanks!
Edit: I think I just answered my last question. I bet the angle iron is not the same thickness so you can't use the attachment plate on the bottom. Attaching the plates on the side allows you to align the top edge at the height you need it to be so that the rollers move smoothly across the junction.
The extension works but there's still room for improvement. I want to say the angle iron is 2 1/2". Same size as the vertical on the track but not as wide as the bottom on the track. The edge is rounded like most angle not squared like the track. The stock is about the same thickness as the track rails. I did grind the top edges a little bit to narrow them slightly since the wheels felt like they wanted to pinch at first. I put connections on the sides (using the same holes that the stopper/bumpers use) because of the way my track is bolted to the trailer and how that limits access to the bolts that would normally be used for a bottom plate connection. Presuming this isn't an issue on your mill I would recommend going with a bottom plate. The clearance between the side plate bolts and the bottom of the saw head frame is almost non existent, to the point where I had to turn the bolts so that the flat portion of nut was parallel to the top of the track. There is a little drag but it works. I wasn't going to put the small extension on right away but once I noticed how easy it would be to add it over the trailer tongue I had to do it.
My extension sits on top of my tongue also. Three bolts and it all comes off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/extension.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1476936992)
Some long delayed updates.
I got the roof put up last November, made a winter visit just to hear it run, and this month got some time to finish up the details of the milling shed, get the mill set up semi-permanently, and mill some more lumber.
Before heading out to the woods I picked up this running gear at an auction, $175, it'll work for slabs with the box on it and logs when the boxes come off. It is small enough to fit on my skid steer trailer. Seen here with its first log that happened to need a ride from one property to another:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Wagon_on_trailer.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1496027713)
One of the first steps was moving the mill out of the shed so I could move the base in. The base is the upper part of the pontoon trailer. Once the mill was lined up onto the base the arms would be pinned to the base and raised into position:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Millc_052217.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1495980290)
It was a bit of an ordeal to get the alignment perfect and all the pins in place, here is a look at the two pieces put together where they'll be working for quite a while under the roof:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Millb_052317.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1496023609)
Here is a look at the outside of the mill shed as I start to put the finishing touches on. Here I have put up the braces for the small roof-eve below the clear panels:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Mille_052217.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1495980679)
Finally, here is a picture of the mill and shed after I finished up installing the eve and the clear end panels. Also the wagon can be seen parked where I can toss trimmings directly into the box:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Milld_052417.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1496024439)
While it seems I spend as much time setting up as I do milling, things are just about where I want them and visits from now of should yield more production. Next up may be a log deck. It would be set up to move logs directly off the running gear onto the log deck, then onto the mill. The only reservation I have is how I would need to change up my workflow a bit. I'm still very much in the learning stage and cut fairly slowly. I bring over a log on the forks of the skid steer, load it on the mill, and park the machine right there where I can set the lumber right back on the forks and drive it back to the drying piles when the log is done.
For the smallish-time/home/hobby guys out there, have there been any drawbacks to setting up a log deck? does it ever get in the way? did you opt to forego a log deck? are you planning to add a log deck after milling a while for the productivity boost? Thanks!
Good progress Roundhouse. What kind of running gear is that? Are those the original wheels?
Quote from: btulloh on May 31, 2017, 08:35:30 AM
Good progress Roundhouse. What kind of running gear is that? Are those the original wheels?
Thanks, The label on it says "New Idea Order W100". I don't think that is the right color for New Idea from what I've researched, likely painted to match something else. I don't know about the wheels, they do match each other although every tread is different. I've been trying to find out more and determine about how old it is but haven't found any resources yet that refer to a W100.
Very nice looking setup you have there.
Looks like you could have a solar kiln in that upper area!
Jon
Do I see bark on your shed posts? If so, looks like a good feeding pole.
Quote from: grouch on May 31, 2017, 03:48:03 PM
Do I see bark on your shed posts? If so, looks like a good feeding pole.
"feeding pole"? like for bugs?
This has been an open topic around this project with two opinions having been aired so far.
One take is that with cedar the bark keeps it from drying out too quickly and splitting (I've had one of the posts cut and set horizontally off the ground for years on this lot with no sign of bugs).
The other take is that the bark needs to come off to prevent an infestation.
Update time.
Of course there's never enough time to spend at the mill but I've made a couple trips this fall. For starters, we've had an awful lot of rain this summer and that was evident when I went out to the mill over Labor Day weekend. Despite walking my road first and dropping my trailer the dually got mired on the way in. In the process of pulling it out we got it hung up on a stump, reshaping the running boards on that side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/lot90_F350stuck_090217.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508463049)
I had just happened to have brought a 12" culvert with me. The next day I called up a guy with the equipment to do the job right and hired him to set the culvert and place plenty of fill over it. Here is the before pic:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/lot90_tankhillam_090317.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508462728)
Coming back a month later here's how it looked. Sort of tough to tell with the leaves but there is ditching and a couple feet of fill over the new pipe:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewCulvertFill_lot90_101317.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508461866)
With the mill road reshaped it was time for me to work on finishing it. The fill is a mix of dirt and clay that will hold up much better with a topping of rock and sand from a pit on my lot. My old home-built side dump trailer had seen better days so I mounted it on top of the running gear. It worked pretty good for spreading the sand on the road:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/SideDump_lot90_101417.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508463389)
Along with the road work I had the mill yard expanded. I makes the mill look a little small but that's OK, now I have plenty of room for a turn around and a pile of logs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewClearing_lot90_101317.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508469389)
I had a project in mind for a while that I adding to the mill this trip. I picked up this ATV winch at an auction a few years back, never installed it on the four wheeler, and started to think it could be useful around the mill. I installed it over the center of the mill for turning logs. I had to make sure it would clear the water tank at the top of the mill, it did, then I raised the mill head to make sure it wouldn't interfere. I discovered that with the head raised the first thing to interfere would be the top of the scale, an inch or two short of the top. I marked the post where I need to stop and called it good. It's unlikely that I'll need that much height.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/winchclearancetest_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508544903)
Since I would be mounting a battery to power the winch I decided it was time to put up some lights. I used three "backup lights" to cast light over the mill. They are intended to use a truck chassis for a ground so I did have to run a second ground wire between the lights:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewWiring_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508545180)
Once it was dark it was pretty exciting to be able to flip the switch and light up the mill. A little surreal when you're miles from the nearest powerline. I couldn't help myself from taking a bunch of pictures:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillLightsA_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508546069)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillLightsD_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508546295)
From the east side you can see into the "attic" due to the clear siding:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/MillLightsC_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508546982)
Plenty of light to finish that last log of the day when the sunset comes early this time of year:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/IMG_5405.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1508547505)
I usually like to end the day by putting the next log on the mill to have it ready to go first thing. Of course this evening the log was a tad short, the backstops set a little low and the log rolled right off the back. I decided to give the winch its first try. Although only intended to rotate logs on the mill, the winch picked up the log no problem and set it right on the mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/WinchLift_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508596328)
The next morning I tried the winch for its intended purpose, rotating a maple so I could reclamp it at 90 degrees:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/WinchRotate_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508596823)
Another project was setting up better drying stacks. I bought a pallet of footing blocks to use as a base. I started with a skid steer bucket of sand to allow an easily leveled surface then arranged 8 blocks to make up the base:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/lumberstackfoundation_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508598989)
Then I made some maple beams to fit onto the footings:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/lumberstackbase_lot90_101617.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508599308)
With all the side projects this trip I didn't get too much milling done, this is hardly a full stack but a start. There are also plans it the works for a better stack-topper:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/lumberstack_lot90_101617.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508600651)
A maple cant on the mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Maple_lot90_101617.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508600934)
Finally, I had made these fork extensions a few years back for a use that didn't pan out. I now use them at the mill. They both allow more room for sorting of boards on the way to the stacks and prevent staining of the fresh boards through contact with the steel forks:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/ForkExtensions_lot90_101517.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1508613010)
Sometimes I feel all I do is plan and prepare for milling but in the long run I should have an efficient operation, even as a one man set-up.
Rounder, you have done good mate. Its a little late to mention but if your mill shed was wider with some headland you could drive your truck through and unhook the mill in position. Heavy duty saw horses are handy around a mill, mine are the same height as the mill. I can load 4 or 5 logs and roll them on the mill when needed. Also the horses make a handy place to stack boards needing edging. Its usually not good form to load a mill with a machine directly, sooner or later there will be damage. What are you planning to do to sharpen and set your bands. A new box of bands is like the honeymoon, but won't last. Frank C.
For sure a good set of saw horses are gold around the mill. More so on a manual mill.
Let there be light!! And lights are important too.
bandmiller is right on the equipment part. I have two logs that I put the logs onto,than I use a peavey to roll the logs on to the mill.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes the shed is on the small side. The length was driven by wanting a continuous timber (and 20 feet being the longest I could produce with a little cheating). The width was determined by the size of the steel I had for the roof and the pitch I needed (the shed being in a heavy snow belt). Also the shed backs up into a hill so driving through from that end would be impractical without a lot of landscaping. It will be a long time before the mill is moved. With the heavy core I figure I can add onto it as needed.
Heavy horses/log deck is definitely on "the list" but so far I've been cutting pretty hand-to-mouth as I put together the essentials. I'll also need to plot out the flow for lumber coming off the mill once that's set up. As it is the lumber is going directly off the mill back onto the forks, then driven over to a lumber pile. I have some roller tables that will be part of this next phase.
And blades, I've given serious thought to the blade sharpener sold by Woodland Mills. So far I haven't cut enough to reach that crossroads yet. I bought a 10 pack when I bought the mill and used a few blades last year. Ahead of this season I bought another pack of 10 to make sure I didn't run out of sharp blades, it doesn't look like I'll be breaking into that pack this year. I like the idea of resharpening my blades but until production picks up I'm still weighing the benefits of having a sharpener vs. sending them out for resharpening.
In reality a fella could use bands until dull and scrap them, and still be ahead with the board feet milled. Save your bands and in the future ether setup to sharpen or send them out. Myself I do as much "in house" as I can but theirs no shame in resharp. Frank C.
------------ oops - posted this reply in the wrong thread. ----------
Roundhouse, in the future, look at Kasco blades. I used the 7 degree on my 126 as a all around blade. For sure, I would like to try their 4 degree, but hate the idea of ordering 15 of them to find out I can't use them.
Blade sharpener, I end building my own. Takes me about 10 minutes to do a blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1181.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484734514)
Yep, a $25 power buy radial saw. ;D
Fishfighter, most of the band venders will sell you or give you bands to try. Call and ask their advice and try several, seems theirs always one brand and hook angle that works better on your mill. Frank C.
I can't believe it's been over a year since I've updated my thread but I've got a couple new photos and updates to share. Earlier this fall I finally got around to building a log deck at my mill. It took a little longer than I expected but I notched the joints of the cribbing so it would be very stable without having to bolt it together. It's roughly 5 feet wide and 10 feet long, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/logdeck_lot90_090318.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1540702147)
Here it is with the first logs set on top. The log deck is mostly built of maple with one large birch base/bumping post seen on this end:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Logdeckfirstload_lot90_090318.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1540702385)
One last picture of the log deck from October where the log deck is full and an early snowfall is in progress. You can also see the lattice I'm trying on this side of the mill shed. It provides some wind break and shade but allows plenty of air flow, it just hooks onto the mill so I can lift off each piece and set it out of the way:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/millsnow_lot90_101518.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1541046338)
The other piece of news this fall is the 10 acres I bought at auction with an eye toward having a better supply of softwood for milling. The woods around my mill are well stocked with hardwoods but now I'll have a decent source for spruce and cedar 3 miles down the road. It's not a premium tract but it also hasn't been logged in a long long time so there are some nice mature trees out there, a high canopy making for some nice saw logs with easy access. Most importantly the price was right enough to be able to pay cash. Towards one end of the lot there is an old beaver pond that has been drained for a number of years, provides a decent overview and the deer seem to love it:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/294pond_090218.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1540702525)
An example of one of the cedars found in the low lands. Not sure how much the center of the trunk may be hollow but eventually this one will find it's way to my mill:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CedarOn294.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1540702692)
Anyway, that's it for now. I hope to work the mill a few more times for winter completely takes over.