I picked up what looks like a Millers Falls boring machine on eBay for $160 last year. I am about to start the restoration so that I can use it on my cabin build instead of the 1.5 inch t-auger I have been using. Did Millers falls ever produce unmarked machines?
I've looked over some other threads and it seems that many people are using white oak in the construction of new bases for these machines. I was under the opinion that white oak has a chemical reaction with steel. Wouldn't this be a bad idea then? I've also found some walnut in the basement so I'm wondering if it would be better choice than the white oak. I am assuming the lighter board in the photos is white oak.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38606/WP_20160519_003.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463677896)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38606/WP_20160519_001.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463677887)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38606/WP_20160519_002.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1463677889)
I think either would work ok. A combination of the two might give you the fanciest looking boring machine on the forum!!
My Boss boring machine has what looks like the original base to me and it's walnut. I don't know what the Millers Falls would have come with, but I think Walnut would be a great choice.
Some bases we believe are made of maple, some we have made have been from oak, others we have made are walnut.
There are some bases listed for sale if you haven't made yours already in this forum's for sale section in this list:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50674.0.html
I'm about to update the list from yesterday's sales.
Jim Rogers
Yes that are Millers Falls boring machines that are unmarked. I would say that somewhere between 1 in 10 and 1 in 20 are unmarked. I speculate that they were sold through a retailer who didn't want Millers falls name on them.
Don't worry about the metal issue with a tool base like this. It's more of a concern if exposed to moisture and if it's in a house, building.
Make the base from what you want. Or get one from Jim Rogers. I have two from him.
Make sure your bearing bores have no slop, and that the gears are meshing correctly. I believe many of the machines with damaged gears are that way due to bore/shaft wear which causes misalignment of the gears, thus leading to gear wear and breakage. Correctly aligned, they should last your lifetime without significant wear or damage.
Hello All,
Brad and Jim, I am a new member to the Forum and am wanting to build a TF barn, possibly a house. I am currently assembling my tools, which started with a set of chisels from Janis at Autine who graciously agreed to make me a set.
I have acquired a MF boring machine, and I do have what seems to be quite a bit of play in the horizontal shaft that feeds both handles. The machne works, and the gears seem to be ok at this moment. What is the best way to remedy this? Bronze bushings? Thank you for any help!
Tim Weaver
You can take the bearing caps off the carriage and place the flat side on a piece of sand paper. Gently slide it back and forth to take off a bit of the metal, and test. As you remove the metal the cap will sit closer to the shaft and may tighten it up for you. Go slow and do a little at a time and test often.
Jim Rogers
Ok Thanks Jim. Do I need to worry about the caps maligning the gears if i take some off? I suppose the key is to not over do it. How do you rebuild them if the play is too much for this to fix?
Thanks for the help,
Tim
I'll have to ask Tom who restores our machines and get back to you.
Jim Rogers
Well the right way would be to bore it and sleeve it. I've not done it yet. I have some machines to restore that will need it. You'd also want to inspect the shaft to determine if it needs replacement.
I talked with Tom on the phone last night.
He said to go and get some "shim stock" which is some very thin metal that you can put in the bearing area, push the shaft it and it will bend around the shaft and then cut off the excess when the two ends meet. Put on the top cap and this shim will take up the space between the shaft and the bearing caps.
Jim Rogers
Thanks Jim and Brad for the replies. I think the amount of play i have can be remedied with the shim stock idea. I will try to find some around here. I need to get it to where i can use it sooner than later.
I may rebuild the shaft at some point but that is more than i want to do now. The pins holding the end caps that hold the handles are frozen in. Tried to remove them but to no avail.
I will see if the shim stock will get me working for a while.
Thanks for your help!
Tim
I do know a guy who has a replacement shaft if you need one.
Jim Rogers
I may be interested in that actually. Can you give me the details through email?
I'll send you his contact info once I get it.
I don't have it right now. But I know some one who does.
Jim Rogers
OK Thanks Jim. Does Tom use steel shim stock or bronze?
Steel, I believe.
I still believe in Santa Claus , too