This is a Japanese Nata. This thing works wonders in the bush. Made by the same company that makes silky handsaws.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30301/13428451_147039919043376_4873281290521635354_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1468886643)
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Is that like a cross between a kukri and a corn knife? It looks very natural to use. I've always loved hand tools. :)
Edit: I just looked these up on Amazon. Is is truly so well made as to command $80? Whew!
Dude. I use this one and it's unchallenged
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42147/roncola_NG1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1468961242)
Add this to your belt and you're all set
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42147/portaroncola.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1468961600)
I have two of the Condor Outback Machete, CTK2042S
420HC stainless steel
Leather Sheath
holds an edge.
Not sure what you are talking about when you say cutting brush? I saw a guy cutting brush with a similar knife and he was leaving little pointed stumps sticking out of the ground. I hate to see people do this as this guy found out the hard way. After these sharp little stumps dried out he stepped on one and it went through his shoe. Danger can come in many forms.
Quote from: HiTech on July 20, 2016, 05:07:43 AM
Not sure what you are talking about when you say cutting brush? I saw a guy cutting brush with a similar knife and he was leaving little pointed stumps sticking out of the ground. I hate to see people do this as this guy found out the hard way. After these sharp little stumps dried out he stepped on one and it went through his shoe. Danger can come in many forms.
A serious hazard if horses use the property as well. A sharp sapling stump can penetrate their hoof, possibly requiring the horse to be put down.
The Japanese nata is a forestry tool used for taking off small branches from cypress and cedar as to upgrade the quality of the wood. Also used to remove lower branches as to avoid ladder fires.
Quote from: John Vander on July 20, 2016, 08:43:50 PM
The Japanese nata is a forestry tool used for taking off small branches from cypress and cedar as to upgrade the quality of the wood. Also used to remove lower branches as to avoid ladder fires.
Having been in a steel-related business for most of my life, I can say that Japanese steel is some of the best in the world. I'm sure it's a great tool, and worth every bit of the price.
True, these blades keep an edge like crazy.
I had a landscape company for a last job. In the winter I did some pruning jobs sometimes 200 trees at a time. I have great respect for Japanese pruning saws. Cutting on the pull is handy, especially with a curved blade. They stay sharp and have lots of set for a large kerf and less effort. Even a good sized saw can be carried in a sheath on a belt and it is always handy. Sometimes I use them in the yard. It is often faster to just cut a couple of limbs by hand, than to go get the chainsaw.
I've wondering how well the Nata works, thanks for the feedback on field testing it.
I have purchased about a dozen Silky hand saws over the last handful of years... yes, they are pricey but absolutely worth it. The difference between a quality professional hand saw and a cheap box store one is as noticeable as the difference between a Ryobi chainsaw and a pro model Husky or Stihl.
Here is what we use to prune the teaktrees. At the end we put wooden sticks in it up to 18' long. A very hard job. This the best saw available for our application, although they cost 34$ and tend to get loose by the rivets and after like 4 filings you have to get rid of them because the tooth pattern is very hard to maintain with hand filing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/Bahco_3856T_1837_1000x1200.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1469280177)
Logrite has some forestry pruning saws
I like to carry my silky nata and saw on my belt when camping and bushcrafting too.
Quote from: teakwood on July 23, 2016, 09:30:32 AM
Here is what we use to prune the teaktrees. At the end we put wooden sticks in it up to 18' long. A very hard job. This the best saw available for our application, although they cost 34$ and tend to get loose by the rivets and after like 4 filings you have to get rid of them because the tooth pattern is very hard to maintain with hand filing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/Bahco_3856T_1837_1000x1200.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1469280177)
You should learn to file and joint hand saws, they will last longer
I have taken some larger saws to a saw shop to be sharpened. They filed the teeth okay but did a terrible job with setting the teeth.
I was learning to sharpen those 3 (or is it 4) angle saws I use for pruning fruit trees, but it turns out the teeth are hardened and once you file them you filed away the hard metal. I guess I could learn to re-harden them -- heat them up and quench them, I guess. I wonder how they only do the teeth and not the blade, as it stays flexible. The file is very hard and brittle and chips easily, too.
Quote from: enigmaT120 on July 26, 2016, 05:55:11 PM
I was learning to sharpen those 3 (or is it 4) angle saws I use for pruning fruit trees, but it turns out the teeth are hardened and once you file them you filed away the hard metal. I guess I could learn to re-harden them -- heat them up and quench them, I guess. I wonder how they only do the teeth and not the blade, as it stays flexible. The file is very hard and brittle and chips easily, too.
I doubt you can quench them and get the same result, those black teeth are induction hardened, meaning they are heated locally with electrical induction and quenched.
And yeah it's hard to find a quality triangular file for saw sharpening they are pretty much all bad quality. Even if they are still sharp, if the edge chips it's not going to work properly because you need the edge to cut in the gullet.
Many pruning saws nowadays are made so that they have teeth that are very hard so they stay sharp for a long time and cut fast but are throwaway items by design, they are not easy at all to sharpen. I prefer a more traditional design that can be sharpened by a triangular file.
The bahco i us are a soft steel, they cut very good. they last around 40h pruning teaktrees, and teakwood is brutal on steel. I consider myself quite good at hand filing, improved my technique within the last 8 years, its just you have to maintain 3 angles with a tiny triangle file by hand and also control the depth, its very hard.
Teakwood (and others with interest),
I'm working on a better pole saw. Made of carbon composite tubes, it's both extremely light and stiff. The blade stays in the cut, thus the user can cut more with less effort and greater accuracy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30352/IMG_5254.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1469667252)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30352/IMG_5255.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1469667357)
The assembly as shown is two 5'6" pole sections and the hookless head prototype for the Silky blade mount. One of the professional testers routinely used 4 sections to good effect. He would have gone for 5, but I only gave him 4 :)
Nearing production, yet still in the development phase, so any constructive thoughts or suggestions are welcome.
Wow! That saw's somethin' fierce powerful! Look at all the logs it cut and it still looks new! ;)
I would love to try that carbon fiber handle out...what a neat technology.
I ones bought the husky fiberglass telescopic shaft for around 85$, after just five days my worker brought it back broken in half. >:( >:( Some times a branch catch the saw and flies down with the whole assembly and hit the ground, at 18' height you have no leverage when a heavy branch wants to pull the saw down. So a free wooden stick has been the best choice until now, although i would love to try this out. how expensive is that thing? Some workers even prefer a thicker much heavier stick because the weight helps them to cut faster.
I like the look of that pole saw! If you're looking for crews to test out prototypes or purchase an early production model, please shoot me a message. I was just about to buy another Silky Hayauchi, but I might hold off now...
Teakwood,
As a 'manufacturer', we can control the quality, but can only make recommendations on actual use.
I found the agility and rigidity changed my work habits; how I approached a given pruning job.
I'm more inclined to take a larger limb down in sections, rather than all at once.
As with most cutting tools, duller/worn blades require more pressure to cut. With a pole saw, if the blade remains in the cut, you prune more limbs with fewer strokes, and you get more severs between sharpening.
The performance justifies the projected cost, which will be competitive with the better saws on the market. The challenge is finding an acceptable level of weight/durability to go with that cost.
Of course, everyone has a different idea as to what 'durable' means. :D
There's a point of diminished return with regard to strength and weight, but with the 6'(+/-) test poles coming in around .7lb, there's room for additional material.
FWIW, I removed the saw head from my old fibreglas pole, and now use it for hanging Christmas lights.
Ox,
If things go as planned, these should be available for handling in the not too distant future.
Update:
We've shown the pole system at several northeast trades shows the fall, and the response has been extremely positive.
The engineer conducting the deflection test in the still photo weighs about 215lbs. :)
Note the ease of connection. Turn the volume up for best effect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMvh2ZO2qww (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMvh2ZO2qww)
Someone mention pruning with hand saws?? LOL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUxkjvVOWQ8
My crew has been testing out the "Lightning Stick" on a few projects now and my guys love it! I haven't been able to take many photos, as I've usually been on a machine instead of under the pole saw, but the impression is that this pole system is way lighter and more rigid than my Silky aluminum shafts. Two thumbs way up @North River Energy!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25428/IMG_6582.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1481904498)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25428/corridor_clearing.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1481904279)
Thanks for the update OTBP. Pleased to hear it's working out for your situation. ;D
We've implemented a few design changes, so get in touch if you're in the area and want to have a look and/or offer suggestions going forward.
My favorite tool is the Woodsman's Pal (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tool-Industries-Woodmans-Military/dp/B0009DV5SO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482171686&sr=8-2&keywords=woodman%27s+pal)
Quote from: CCC4 on December 14, 2016, 07:54:12 PM
Someone mention pruning with hand saws?? LOL!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUxkjvVOWQ8
And you should see him hang lights :D :D :D
Quote from: dustintheblood on December 19, 2016, 03:12:23 PM
Quote from: CCC4 on December 14, 2016, 07:54:12 PM
Someone mention pruning with hand saws?? LOL!
And you should see him hang lights :D :D :D
...I would be wearing some kind of chaps or PPE, cause with swinging blades like that I would sure as heck miss at least once