I'm not sure the exact name but the scale that manual bandsaw mills use to set the thickness of the wood to be cut. I have a few questions as I was thinking of making some up for my DIY mill. I tried to search for info but I'm not using the right words so nothing useful is coming back. My mill has a chain lift and I can count the number of revolutions but that is getting old. So, here are my questions:
Can someone post a few pictures of what they have?
The values on the scale, do they increase in height (start at zero at the bed?) or do the numbers get bigger going down? Or do you even number the marks at all?
If you are making sure to center your pith in a particular board, do you just adjust the placement of your scale (or pointer) to account for that?
I understand that the scale is not exact measurements but rather have the specific saw kerf built into the spacing. However, say you are cutting 4/4 stock, is the scale also adjusted for likely shrinkage (species specific) i.e. 1" + kerf + x?
I have some 2" wide aluminum stock that I was going to etch a few sets of scales on both sides and want to be sure to get the spacing right. I'm thinking 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4, 10/4 and 12/4 - Ideas?
Does anyone use every other mark, say, on the 4/4 scale to get 8/4 (etc) or is the compounding of the kerf mess it up too much?
I was going to inset a couple of super magnets into it so it can be positioned as needed and perhaps the pointer set with a magnet as well?
I'd like to get it right the first time and I appreciate your feedback.
several manufactures have magnetic or selfstick scales. I have both softwood and hardwood quarter scales from woodmizer. They have kerf built in. 4 5 6 &8 quarter on each.
These should save you some fabrication time: http://store.cookssaw.com/sawmill-parts/misc.-parts/magnetic-log-scales.html
I use Cooks...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Magnetic_scales~4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471325256)
I use ruler from Lowe's, so far it bothers me none figuring the next number. It was $6 for two of them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43116/DSCN3223.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1464188382)
I made my own scale because I wanted more thicknesses on it than I could get on a commercially available version. My graduations are: 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 1.125, 1.25, 1.75 and 2.0. I made it out of a broken steel tape painted white with black markings, sprayed with clear lacquer and glued on. (Doubt I would go to that much trouble again but it has lasted a long time.) I also made a magnetic one of the same markings and is moveable. I have never used the 0.5 mark but wish I had added a 3.0 mark. My graduations allow for the kerf but no more. No one has ever complained that their 4/4 boards are right at 1" and not 1+ a little bit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/P1020223.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471350300)
Hud-Son has a peel and stick that works well for me.
Thanks for all the pictures and comments.
OK, so I see that your scales are numbered. But do you all actually use the numbers while you are cutting or just a reference to how many boards you will be getting out of a log/cant, or totally ignore them?
That pic is glary and the scales are aged making it difficult to read.
If I understand your question, I don't use all the numbers while cutting a given log. In general, I use the same scale all the way thru a log or until I rotate it. So, I will cut, say, all 1 bys out of a log and if a different thickness is needed I will cut that out of the next log or I can cut thin material off the sides and rotate and cut thick material. I don't mix and match on a cut thru the same side because it is generally wasteful.
Bob