Hi, i have a MS250 Stihl approx 12years old, it still runs great. My question is regarding my bar and chains, i have 3 years experience with this saw now cutting my winter supply of firewood. Ive noticed every now and again the saw will start cutting off to an angle. I know this is being caused by uneven wear on the bar, i do sharpen my own chains, maintain the rakes and im pretty sure i get the teeth even on both sides, i also dress the bar ie. Filing the rails flat/level, beveling the sides of the rails, keeping them clean. And i rotate the bar everytime the chain comes off. Is there any thing i am missing. Could it be my cutting technique? I dont use pushing force when cutting just let the saw do all the work. Any help would be appreciated
Welcome!
Looks like you have things pretty well covered. I'm thinking that some combo of:
A. bar rails uneven in height (or even worn too low, so drive links are bottoming),
B. cutters unevenly sharpened- one side better than t'other.
Cutters do NOT have to be even in length to cut straight. Bar rails must be even, with no side burrs. With a bench-grinder it's pretty easy to true a bar's rails pretty precisely.
Do you flip the bar regularly, and if you do, is the problem same both sides?
Hi CTYyank,
Yes it seems to allways favour the one side. I do flip the bar after every use.
How would i know if my cutters are bottoming out,i assume the bottom point would start wearing flat?
People have a tendency to file heavy on one side or the other on the chain,including myself .It's not a bad idea to use some type of a guide which gets the angles correct.There are many styles,I prefer the Oregon type but others work as well .
I don't use a guide all the time because I prefer to take the gullet deeper although I doubt it's necessary,just one of my idiosyncrasies
Bars can get worn where the side nearest the chain has a taper in the bar slot caused by wear .allows the chain to tip .Plus drivers can be worn so they have a taper to them .
Some times bars can get bent or twisted .That's a real joy to try to correct .
Thanks al_smith
Your wisdom is muchly appreciated mate. Yes i still do use my file guide as im not confident enough yet to file without it yet. I guess it will come down to time and experience. I know i have improved my skills maintaining my saw immensly since starting so i am confident, also i see these issues as an enjoyable challenge. One of my favourite parts of the whole firewood cutting experience is getting home and stripping the saw down, cleaning it, resharpening the chains and dressing the bar ready for next use. I take allot of pride maintaing the equipment myself. I am looking forward to upgrading to a ms251 or 261 in the near future but chainsaw prices in australia are allmost double US prices for stihls 😧 even with the exchange rate.
I heard the prices were extremely high in Australia .Wonder why?
I contacted stihl sbout the issue several months ago and they havent responded.
We also cannot get model specific service kits in australia which i know are available out of the US, we havevto buy individual parts separately.
From my research i did a while back from a dealership in texas a ms261 would cost around $800aus($620USD) with a modest shipping estimation of $300aus i would still be $400/500aus better off than if was to buy local
Problem with that is Stihl supports local area dealers .Just the way they do it ,dealers are not permitted to ship parts or saws .
A previous sponsor on this site listed Stihl parts but they were not a dealer,boot leg parts that once you paid their mark up and shipping it was higher than a dealer .I don't do business with them any more .
Thanks for your local knowledge al.
Wow that would be a shame if it is true for all dealers. I wonder if the same rule applies to ship international. I only inquired through a store in texas as it was geographicly closer to me. I havent had a chance to make a phone call yet to find out.
Bar could be bent to!!!
If you are using only one chain, check that both side cutters are sharpened evenly. I check the "point" of each cutter with my thumb when filing them. With your guide, the geometry of each side should be same. Out of curiosity, how high do you set the file relative to the cutters? (I've found that 1/5 file diameter above the cutter works just fine.)
If you've been running the saw long with dull cutters on one side, while flipping bar, you probably have uneven rails on both sides. You can check this easily with a precision square along the length of the bar. There are ways also to sight down on the chain while pressing it down. You'll see if the cutters stand proud more on one side than the other. I've found it easy to true bar rails with a bench-grinder. Set the tool-rest so a bar set on it has its center in line with the wheel center. Run the bar lightly across the wheel until the wheel leaves marks evenly on both rails. Those marks help retain some oil for a bit.
If possible, try different chain/bar.
If Stilhl prices are crazy in Aus., how are Dolmar's? They make mostly serious saws.
Next time you go walkabout up on that mountain, try growing one leg longer than the other, or at least try cutting crooked, that way your cuts will end up straight. :D
Seriously, check to see if the drive links are bottoming out, after three years you might need new guide bar if you do a lot of cutting.
Other than that it sounds like your on the ball.
Quote from: CTYank on October 26, 2016, 09:34:16 PM
If you are using only one chain, check that both side cutters are sharpened evenly. I check the "point" of each cutter with my thumb when filing them. With your guide, the geometry of each side should be same. Out of curiosity, how high do you set the file relative to the cutters? (I've found that 1/5 file diameter above the cutter works just fine.)
If you've been running the saw long with dull cutters on one side, while flipping bar, you probably have uneven rails on both sides. You can check this easily with a precision square along the length of the bar. There are ways also to sight down on the chain while pressing it down. You'll see if the cutters stand proud more on one side than the other. I've found it easy to true bar rails with a bench-grinder. Set the tool-rest so a bar set on it has its center in line with the wheel center. Run the bar lightly across the wheel until the wheel leaves marks evenly on both rails. Those marks help retain some oil for a bit.
If possible, try different chain/bar.
If Stilhl prices are crazy in Aus., how are Dolmar's? They make mostly serious saws.
Yeh, there all the same.
Tapping both sides of the grooves with a suitable hammer would make for a snug fit for the chain in case the groove has worn a bit.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is operator error. I find myself placing my left hand on the left side of the saw handle and inadvertently pushing down a little. This causes the saw to cant a little and cutting to the right. I will notice this during the cut and adjust.Them back to cutting straight.
Try a new chain. I'm thinking you aren't getting it evenly sharpened. If you've ever flush cut a stump, then used the saw for bucking, it will cut noticeably towards one side because you dulled one side of the chain more than the other.
Could go have it sharpened, a machine if guy using it pays attention is as good as new chain. Iv said it many times, sharpening a chain by hand and getting it right is a skill and an art. Iv been a wrench on these things for 45 years and i can not keep one sharp and even by hand. I truly admire the ones that can and iv tried.
Are you using a chain that is too small for the width of the groove in the Bar ?
If the bar groove is worn below specs couldn't hat cause the chain to roll to the side ? If he's been cutting 12 years I'd think the groove would be very shallow if he hasn't changed to a new bar. ???