Hello there,
Wanted to introduce myself. My name is Drew and I am a private lands biologist based out of Mobile, AL. I have been looking at this forum on and off as a guest for several years. I was in west Texas prior to Mobile, AL so I decided to become a member once I got back down south into timber country.
As a biologist serving private landowners I come across quite a bit of butt-ends and waste from clearcuts. Usually, landowners are more than willing to give me the waste. I have a Lucas 613 with a slabbing attachment that I haul around on occasion when there is enough large diameter waste to make it worth while. I am currently looking at buying a larger chainsaw than my daily chainsaw (251 Stihl) to use for milling waste logs and storm dropped limbs (mostly live oak) I come across when traveling across south Alabama. Most of the logs I come across are around 16 - 32 inches in diameter. I would rather not have to tote the Lucas around for just one log. I need something I can toss in the back of my truck in case I come across something while on the road. I know there are a myriad of options available and points to consider but I was curious what are the most important points to consider when buying a chainsaw for milling?
Power, power and power :)
I run a Alaskan Mk III 42" with my Stihl 661, 36" bar and the Granberg ripping chain and when you get into +30" oak you really need all the power it can deliver or you need a lot more time :)
The other main factor to have in mind is that milling with a chain saw puts a lot of full throttle time on the saw so it need to be able to handle that in the long rung. Stihl have official approved the 660/660 for chainsaw milling ( with the logosol mill)
I wouldn't use a smaller saw that the 661 for milling above 20", I in the process of getting a MS 362 for the Granberg vertical mill for edging at a max cutting of 18-20" but not for slabbing thats the job of the 661.
I've only done a small amount of oak .I tried a Stihl 048.not enough power .A Mcculloch SP 125 and a Homelite 2100S had enough power but it was slow work .
A standard chisel chain is much faster than a ripping chain and will produce a cut much smoother than say a circular sawmill .Besides that most times it gets planed any way .
Chainsaw milling is not my cup of tea but it is a method to salvage lumber from what would be fire wood .Just takes too much effort .
Yes, more power is better. I run an older Stihl 090 (137cc).
If you can get a new saw, get a Stihl 880. For milling get the biggest HP saw you can.
Other saws will do the job nicely. A 576 Husqy serves me well for occasional milling of hardwoods up to 30". For more sustained duty, I'd look for buys on used or new 395 or 3120, especially for milling big northern hardwoods. Dolly 6100 has plenty of power for edging, even PP5020 is adequate for 20" logs.
For chains, I'd suggest ordinary semi-chisel (very good surface-finish) for logs up to 20-24" depending on saw and wood. Beyond that, full-skip semi-chisel for better chip clearance and lighter engine load.
It's all about experiment and practice, practice, practice.
I did a fair amount of chainsaw milling before common sense and old age set in...but there are a couple of things that I learned. Some have been said many times, some not.
First milling is hard on a saw. Constant load for extended periods of time. Chainsaws are minimally air cooled so this can be an issue. Solution. Displacement. The biggest pro level saw from one of the better brands you can afford. Of course the down side to larger saws is weight, so that does also have to be a part of the consideration. I've done some with a saw as small as a 372 Husqvarna (70cc class) but that was really hard on it and yes it got pretty hot. Saws in the 90cc class were much happier. And I did a lot with an antique McCulloch 797. THAT saw was perfect for a few reasons...one the bigger displacement but there were others.
Second. Bar oiling. Milling sucks up a lot of bar oil so the saw needs to be able to pump enough out and have enough of a tank to hold enough oil for the length cuts you plan to do. Mine varied from 8ft to 18ft. That old Mac had plenty and could produce...
Third chain, chain makes a HUGE difference as it does everywhere in the chainsaw world. I used a 3/8 full chisel "skip" chain and learned to sharpen it to help. There are a few threads on that topic so I'll let the "experts" deal with that, just remember you are cutting cross grain. Top plate angle can make a different.
Tweaks.. ONE little detail was I didn't like many of the "standard" exhausts that ended up blowing chips and dust up into my face. That is where my typical muffler mod with the tube existing out and up on the clutch side came from. I started doing that to direct the exhaust blast away from the work. Also at the time I was certain it helped the saws run cooler. Not as convinced now....but it might.
Fuel...and this is where the arguments will start. while the higher octane fuels may actually cost a little power, they do help in a minor was move things in the saws direction relative to heat. I ran as high an octane as I could find w/o ethanol. A waste of time and money? Maybe. I also ran 32:1 with a synthetic. At the time Mobil One MX2T which is no longer available. ALSO part of why I stick with that heaver oil mix...not going to get into it but that series of experiences cemented the practice in my saw routine.
My saw recommendations?? Not really relevant as I am certain there are many others that would work quite well. I can say that ancient old McCulloch did the job very well where some of the period Homelites did not. A 925 would just get the gas boiling! The bigger Jonsered did well but they are NLA and only a nut case would use one of those collectors for a work saw like that..(820,920 class). The 372 was too small for sustained milling in my mind.
One saw that does stick out in my mind as a great candidate is those Older Stihl MS660's. Get one with and possibly consider a fresh OEM top end. And thats OEM of course although I've done a lot of noodling and ripping with an AM version. Just not dedicated milling with an AM copy so can't recommend one . They can product Lots of bar oil. The pumps, at least the AM pumps my AM versions have crank out the oil and I believe there is a higher volume option from Stihl as well. I think I would pick the older design of a Husqvarna 395 over the 385/390, but other than tearing them both apart a few times and looking inside don't have a specific reason. Those are two that I would be comfortable recommending.
I wouldn't be comfortable running ANY of the newer 'Auto Tunes" from either of the big brands as a milling saw at this time...that may change but from what I'm seeing....no. Even the "X-torq's". That's a HELL no for them....unless built & modded by someone who understands where its going. But then for all that hassle and money, just getting a bigger saw would be easier.
More details...if you go this route, keep that saw clean! Don't let the dust build up in or around the flywheel and fins. Have to keep those milling saws as cool as you can. Same with the air box and air filter.
I'm certain there is a lot more things folks can articulate to make this endeavor more successful. AND my bet is there are a bunch of good saw options in addition to the MS660 & 395XP.
Just my humble opinion.
My Stihl 090AV mills the best with 36" .404 46RS chain. Its weight is not a factor because 98% of the time it's milling supported by the log/cant.
My Husqvarna 395XP even with the same .404 b/c is still a real work horse.
My Stihl 066 with a 16" Picco 3/8 Lo Pro bar/chain and a Logosol 3/8" Picco 7 tooth spur sprocket drum....mills finished lumber off the squared cants like crazy.
I have done hours and hours of chainsaw milling here in the tropics. had a 088, mi opinion the best saw for milling because of the power, but the weight with the alaskan mill is killing. when the wood is smaller and softer i have used my 066. i always used 10 degree chain.
I have done cuts in a wood that is so hard (cant put a nail in it) that the 088 spend one tank of gas for 1-2 cuts, 20" wide and 8' long cut, will last 10-15min to make a cut. never modified any saw. Even with our hot temps here the 088 is built for that. go big. 660 or 880. the 880 will kill your back eventually :D :D
Dang am i pleased i have a bandsawmill now and those days are just a reminder of the past!