I have a few blades from when I started sawing that I tried to saw thru the back stops. :D Anyway, I had saved them. The blades only had three or four rounded teeth.
So today, I was sharpening a couple blades and said to myself, could I reused those back stop blades again. Now those blades were 10 degree blades and I have things set up to 7 degree sharpening. That is what works best for my mill all around.
After passing one thru, this is what it looks like. One can pick out the two teeth that are shorter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1228.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1487695443)
I took off very little metal changing out the angle and gullet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1230.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1487695466)
Question is, will the blade work or did I waste my time? Anybody ever resharpen a metal strike blade?
Yes, more often than not a reset will be required for a decent finish,
That is what I was thinking. That blade has a bunch of rust, so I will saw with it just enough to remove the rust the reset the teeth. ;D That way I know I have the teeth set right.
It will leave a pattern when you saw. :-\
I suspect that some teeth adjacent to those two also had some damage.
MM, you getting all this rain too? Got pounded last night, again now and more to come later. :(
Sometimes you can sometimes you can't.
Suggestion.if you're going to try recover such blades,put a tag on each one with written notes, About what you did and how long it took, and then actually evaluate that blade by sawing with it. With this knowledge,then you can decide easily whether it's worth it for you.
When you have some teeth significantly shorter than the rest, there's pretty good odds that those teeth will leave marks on the lumber or the cant!
I think you'd up the odds of using that blade properly if you set the short teeth straight up, like a raker, then when all of the teeth become even, with successive sharpenings, you could once again successfully set, sharpen and use that blade!
That's a good idea Chuck.
I would use those blades as a learning tool. I would keep sharping
them until I had them working like new again... But that's just me.
Its said three or more teeth in a row that are short, junk the band. I would sharpen and set the bands and use them when you suspect a log may have metal or your not fussy. " A band is a terrible thing to waste" Frank C.
I resharpen most blades that have struck hardware and like Chuck does I set the teeth that are missing [size=78%]with zero set. I've had some metal strike blades that cut great. Often times when you hit a nail and it only leaves a bur on the tip of the teeth, them ones can be salvaged just fine. Just have to be careful not to overheat when grinding the burr off. I've never heard the rule of three but[/size]
[/size][size=78%]makes sense. One or two missing is no big deal.[/size]
I give them two chances -- sharpen, set, try. If the blade doesn't cut straight, then repeat once. After that they are trash.
I have about a 50% success rate now that I sharpen and set my own. No luck at all when I was sending them out to get sharpened.
Thanks for the input. I like the idea of taking out all angle of the short teeth. ;D So I will just saw enough to knock off the rust and then reset all the teeth. Got a couple more blades like this and I sure don't want to waste them if there is a chance I can fix them. ;D
I will report back. ;D
Set the bad teeth straight, sharpen normally, oil, and hang up on a nail until you get questionable logs. These blades are good for using on logs that you're not sure about with hardware and stuff in them.
Tell me the reason for removing the set from the short teeth. :P Just curious. ???
Not having set these to zero myself but guessing where the others are coming from, I'd say that the short teeth have been mangled in someway or another and wouldn't set right in the setter for sure , let alone get sharpened and be set correctly afterwards. One aspect of being mangled would be that the outsides of these teeth might be severely rounded over. This is the portion of the tooth that needs to be ground down until squareness reappears, and this is unlikely to happen in the moderate grinding of the rest of the teeth. Bending these to a zero set is a quick way of dealing with them in the reconditioning effort.
x2 - easier to just set em straight and forget em. Chances are they're mangled and are shorter, therefore not really a tooth anymore anyways. Every measurement will be off with these types of teeth.
Be sure to mark the offending teeth with chalk. Sometimes the pusher on the grinder will not get a good grip and the wheel will come down out of time. Just be ready when the shorties come around. Frank C.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 22, 2017, 08:15:52 PM
Be sure to mark the offending teeth with chalk. Sometimes the pusher on the grinder will not get a good grip and the wheel will come down out of time. Just be ready when the shorties come around. Frank C.
Yep!
Pretty much everyone else covered it.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 22, 2017, 08:15:52 PM
Be sure to mark the offending teeth with chalk. Sometimes the pusher on the grinder will not get a good grip and the wheel will come down out of time. Just be ready when the shorties come around. Frank C.
I am using a manual home made sharpener. Takes me about 15 minutes to sharpen a blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1181.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484734514)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1182.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484734446)
I did change out the stone to a 1"X8". Dang stone cost me more then what I paid for the saw. :D
My setter is a pineywoods home made setter. ;D
Quote from: Magicman on February 22, 2017, 12:56:12 PM
Tell me the reason for removing the set from the short teeth. :P Just curious. ???
Lynn, the points on the short teeth will contact the wood at a different point than the undamaged ones will, therefore only being 2 or 3 teeth, there will be marks left on the wood where only the damaged teeth contact it!
At least this is what I've found!
Good point,
Bandmiller2 I've had that happen too, you really have to watch and be ready to deal with it if it happens!
Yes, there will be ridges where the damaged teeth pass no matter what you do. Anything that you can do to kinda smooth it out would be helpful.
Of course this is all a moot point with me because the customer has paid me $25 for the nail damaged blade. I junk it, put a fresh one on and never look back. ;D
You high roller, Magic! ;D The rest of us scavengers would love going through your junk blade pile ;)
I quit sending nail strike blades back to ReSharp because a very high percentage will be rejected anyway. No need to pay that shipping.