Hello Sawyer brothers. I have always wanted to buy m very own hydraulic bandsaw mill to start a small business. Last week, the company that I have worked for for 23 years laid me and about 500 other good people off. SO, I am taking the opportunity and money that they are paying me to leave to buy my mill. 8)
I have seen Wood Mizers in person. They are a fine looking mill. I know a lot of you owns them. I have never seen a Cook's mill in person, but I have watched every video that I can find, and read every piece of literature. The Cooks mill looks like a awesome, heavy mill too. For comparison, I am looking at the LT50 / LT70 vs Cooks AC 36 (52 and 62 HP).
I know the Wood Mizer rep says his mill can be set up fast. he Cools guy says that Wood mizers head will bounce along since it is a cantilever style. I was wondering what your thoughts were. Wood mizer vs Cooks? I realize this is like asking which is better, Ford, Dodge, Chevy. However, I would still like to see what you have to say. Thanks for all your help.
The cantilever head on my LT40HDD35 does not bounce. There has only been about a trillion board feet sawn with this design, how could anybody doubt its effectiveness? That is just Salesman Speak.
I'm in the orange corner.The support and engineering that goes into there products is excellent a well as the re-sale value.
Cook's is also a very good mill.If you live near there plant it might be a good fit.I had a 4 post mill before I bought my Lt30.The convenience of not having another set of posts to work around is huge.As for head wobble,i think it is poor form for any salesman to use that tired argument.A properly aligned WM is a joy to use.
My mill is orange and smaller than what you are proposing to buy but I am very happy with it and the support I have gotten from the WM folks. Saying that I have never heard anything negative about a Cook's mill and I am very disappointed the salesman stooped to bad-mouthing his competition rather than selling a well made mill. Another well made mill manufacturer also tends to try to make the cantilever design sound unsound in their ads instead of letting their mill design and quality sell itself. I periodically show a new customer how I can consistently cut 1/4" or thinner "veneer" out of decent logs with my my mill. This amazes them and would not happen if the head bounced as you have heard from your rep.
I can verify my mill can be set up in a matter of minutes by myself and from what I have seen his larger WM brothers go up just as fast. To set mine up I drive it to the location, if slightly off level on one side or the other I either dig a quick small hole in front of the high side tire or put a board or two in front of the low side tire and pull forward a foot or so till it rises or drops into position. I then partially lower the back landing gear , chock the wheel, go drop and adjust the 3 front landing gears and raise it off the ball then lower and adjust the 3 rear landing gears. In the worst case I might have to dig out under a front landing pad or two or add a 2X or 2 under a rear pad to get the whole mill reasonably straight so I don't overwork the power feed or have the head want to move on its own. That's with old manual landing gears. Would be faster and easier with FAOs and if/when I set up on a level area.
Then just move the head forward, lower the loading arms and install the blade and ready to saw. A conservative estimate is 10-15 minutes at my leisurely pace.
Good luck. You will be happy with either mill but before you take the plunge is there a market for your lumber or sawing services and do you have the support equipment to move the logs and lumber? Check that out before stepping off the diving board.
another thing to consider is axle placement.
my TK-2000 has the axle a LONG ways from the hitch, which makes it hard to turn in a tight area. this is OK for me since i am stationary.
FYI here is a good link to saw mill mods
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7789.msg1397352/topicseen.html#msg1397352
Thanks guys for all the advice. I have to say that I have thought about much of what you have said. I saw a WM saw once and he cut a 1/16 thick veneer on it. However, it was on level ground, and it was the sales person. Personal experience is always the best advice. I would take the opinions of owners over a salesman any day. The cooks mill looks like a great mill to me. But, I leave 8 hrs from there. That could be an issue.
I have read where the cooks guys talked about the cantilever head hitting a knot and riding over or under it instead of sawing through it. I also noticed that on Timber kings website, they basically claim the same thing. The timber king website also speaks to a hydraulic drive system being superior to the electric that is on the wood mizer. I can see advantages and disadvantages to both. What do you guys think?
The point about the axle placement is well made. I thought about this too. The cooks mill is 30' plus long. Since I will be offering on site sawing, I was a little worried about the length of the mill and getting into some tight places. I do want the capability to cut a 24" log, but I could use a add on to a wood mizer.
As for my business, I want to offer custom sawing in my area and branch into selling dried lumber and see where it goes. I have a 47 HP 4wd Kubota front end loader to move logs around. My family has been in the logging / saw milling business for 4 generations. It is as you would say "in my blood".
I too was interested in other manufacturers before I purchased an LT15G15 and then traded up to an LT40HDG28. I was able to see and try a few Wood-Mizers before buying one. They do demos in my area twice a year. When I bought the LT40, I was able to visit an owner about 20 minutes from my location. One of the other companies gave me an address of the nearest owner that was 150 miles from here. The point that I am trying to make is, there are a lot of orange owners and many opportunities to see them in action than any other manufacturer that I am aware of. Good luck.
I am not speaking out against anything orange, but those two arent the only two shows in town. I recently purchased a Turner Mills fully hydraulic mill for a fraction of the price of the "big" companies. Bottom line, I get the same support from the manufacturer, if I have a breakdown I can get literally every part from a NAPA (no waiting on the manufacturer to mail a proprietary part). There is no computer, therefore, there are no electrical problems to run down and trace out. On top of all of that, I got to have it built to MY needs, for a fraction of the cost....
Just my .02c...
Best of luck on your decision making.
Doc
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42303/IMG_0038.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1483328087)
Skydoc beat me to it: there is a lot said for construction using "off-the-shelf" parts, which Cooks, Timberking, and Turner all do. I love all the auxiliary information that Cooks' publishes. They have convinced my that a band moving in the cut is due to issues other than head design: blade alignment and sharpness being principle. WM would have went out of business many years ago if their mills did not cut accurate lumber.
My recommendation to you would be to decide what you want in the neck of log handling on the deck: electric vs. hydraulic and go from there. It is my experience that Timberking's claim of hydraulics being superior to 12vdc is true: hydraulics require very little maintenance aside from keeping the oil cool and changing it on a regular basis.
Just a heads up: both the LT70 and the AC36 are going to be more mill than you alone can keep up with sawing-wise. I may suggest you consider the LT40SH, HD32, or the TK2000 as suitable alternatives.
Could a cantilever head design deflect easier around knots? Technically that'd be a yes if everything was equal.
Is it likely to be an issue in reality? Not if the cantilever is well designed: Wodmizer have sold a lot of
mills.
Everything will deflect off line if it's a hard enough knot...including my 1/4" circular sawsplates. Ain't much hope for a thin band once you've seen that happen.
Dunno much about bandmills but I've always liked the look of Cooks and the big Baker.
Friend, I don't want to throw cold water on your ambitions, but given you're about to have a chunk of cash and no job I feel the need to ask about log supply and markets and sawing experience and mundane things like that. Depending on a lot of factors it can be a tough business to make a living from, and there's a learning curve at the start. Make sure you got some socked away to eat and keep the kids in shoes while you get established: My wife is a retirement investment advisor and she has awhole heap of stories about people in similar situations who wake up one day and find themselves gone from making out to destitute because they bought themselves a job.
At least make a business plan.
Good luck with it, whatever you choose.
My situation was similar to yours. I was able to buy my mill with out any borrowed capital, BUT there is a LOT more support stuff required depending on what your productions need are. but that another discussion.
The WM and Cook are both good mills!
Here is a how I made the decision!
Product Access;
Dealer and support location nearest me = Woodmizer (wasn't a cook dealer in western canada)
support reputation of local dealer = Woodmizer
next I helped owners of few different mills
Both swing mills I worked with cut a LOT of lumber in a day BUT also produced a LOT of sawdust/chips waste. One of them was a well built reliable mill the other was junk.
Worked with 2 of the 4 post designed mills the Cooks mill was the better of those 2 the other one was junk.
Worked with a WM LT28 Manual. Hands down a better built mill than the other band saws BUT the Cook produced comparable quality of lumber AND was almost as reliable.
WM is definitely easier on an aging body even as a manual mill.
Worked with a LT40 Hydraulic and that pretty much cinched it for me so I bought one. In hind site I should have worked with a LT40 Super as that is pretty much what mine has become.
The lumber handling with my milling set up is a direct result of the trapezoid bed frame AND the cantilever head. Off bearing effort is minimal!
Having worked with the 4 posters you'd have a hard time GIVING me one even if it was a Cook just for the loading and off-loading ease.
I do not believe you will find a saw system that will not deflect given the right circumstances.
Care and maintenance = WM
Resale Value =WM
That is my experience so far as well.
PS
I have run an LT50 and an LT70.
I like the 50 but the 70 not so much.
In side by side shoot out I am pretty sure I can cut BF for BF with the 50 the way my mill is set up now and I don't think I'd be that far behind the 70.
IMHO the LT40Super with ALL the options, running the 38HP Yanmar is the best bang for your buck in the Woodmizer line up. Wireless remote is a very nice feature as well. The new wide throat option should be considered in the context of the available timber to you.
Regardless of which mill you choose to purchase, they ALL will frustrate you in the early days of learning, even the Woodmizer. The learning curve is steep unless you have an experienced mentor which I was fortunate enough to have.
Welcome and good luck as you progress through this addictive life changing process!
You will NEVER recover! IT is a terminal addiction for which there is no antidote! Only MORE sawdust will mitigate the symptoms!
Keep in mind there's alot of good used mills out there.
4 years ago when I was shopping for a mill I looked at every make I could, not in person, because there wasn't every brand nearby. To things made the choice easy. There has to be a reason why there are so many woodmizer mills available to be seen. Quality sells. After searching for about a year, I decided to buy a used mill and spend the money saved on other things. So I searched Craigslist and the only mills I could find used were orange. The man I was buying the LT 40 from was upgrading to a LT 70. So I knew he wasn't selling it because he didn't like it.
So good luck to you and please post pictures of what ever you buy. Red is pretty too!
All of the Forestry Forum Sponsors listed on the left build solid sawmills and they all stand behind their product with their warranty and service. All of them incorporate a design that has been developed by their R&D personnel and are field proven.
That being said, I hate to hear about any of them attempting to build their product up by making statements about another that simply is not true. If you feel more comfortable and secure with a 4 post sawmill, then that is the right decision for you to make, but be assured that the cantilever head will not be deflected upward or downward by anything that the blade hits.
I sawed a 40" Cypress log yesterday by turning it and allowing the oversized portion to extend beyond the cantilever opening. Yes, there are advantages. Try that with a 4 post.
I'm only going to talk about Wood-Mizer mills, and specifically about the cantilever head design.
The claim that the head will bounce along is simply not true when the blade is cutting. Assuming you have the proper blade the claim that the blade will ride over or under a knot is simply not true. Period. I've sawn half a million board feet of lumber on three different Wood-Mizer mills that will prove my point.
The cantilever head is designed so that the sawing forces pull the carriage tight against the rails. There is no bounce.
I've sawn with the wrong blade angle, or with a dull blade, and the blade will deflect up or down when it hits a knot, as it will on any mill. The cantilever head itself will not move up or down. The head is rock steady all through the cut.
Anyone who tells you otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about.
My only experience is with a Timberking mill.
The TK is excellently made and performs excellently, so another mill for you to consider.
Nuff said.
I don't have any experience with any mill except an old 88 or 9 woodmizer.
I can however tell you the head does not bounce nor ride up at a knotm when the blade itself rides up(not the head) it is time to change the blade or at least slow down.
I don't have near the hours or experience running my mill as most of these other guys, but can also tell you that you can cut a uniform spruce board thin enough to see through, and bend in a complete circle. I have proved this several times, and you don't have to be an old sawyer or sitting on an even parking lot to do it.
As far as set up time, I can not imagine a four poster being as fast, and don't see any way they could be faster at all.
I'd be more concerned about hydraulics vs electric not which type of head. Steve
And setworks... Intuitive setworks that can actually do what you want vs a factory weenies take on what everyman sawyer should need. That's right beside hydraulics on the priority list.
Band width options would matter to me too
Paint colour is irrelevant compared to those because it ain't paint that makes the money.
To paraphrase the old lovin saying
all are good just some better than others.
I am an orange guy.
On the electric vs Hydraulic comparison;
Hydraulics are good and I like them. I have owned may ag and construction machines in my life and the ones I liked the best were the Electric over hydraulic systems.
Hydraulics tend to be messy over time and I don't like a mess when I have to work on things for maintenance or repairs. Electric is easier and less costly to repair as well.
Wood Mizers electrics are very well put together and are reliable and easy to work on.
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on March 02, 2017, 10:12:03 AM
On the electric vs Hydraulic comparison;
Hydraulics are good and I like them. I have owned may ag and construction machines in my life and the ones I liked the best were the Electric over hydraulic systems.
Hydraulics tend to be messy over time and I don't like a mess when I have to work on things for maintenance or repairs. Electric is easier and less costly to repair as well.
Wood Mizers electrics are very well put together and are reliable and easy to work on.
Keep in mind WM still has all of the hydraulics, just drives them and the head with electric motors. Steve
Yes, my blade will sometimes jump over a knot. As soon as it does I stop and replace it with a sharp/new blade and resume sawing and the problem has always gone away for me.
Quote from: ladylake on March 02, 2017, 10:38:53 AM
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on March 02, 2017, 10:12:03 AM
On the electric vs Hydraulic comparison;
Hydraulics are good and I like them. I have owned may ag and construction machines in my life and the ones I liked the best were the Electric over hydraulic systems.
Hydraulics tend to be messy over time and I don't like a mess when I have to work on things for maintenance or repairs. Electric is easier and less costly to repair as well.
Wood Mizers electrics are very well put together and are reliable and easy to work on.
Keep in mind WM still has all of the hydraulics, just drives them and the head with electric motors. Steve
Yes WM is uses both and the hydraulics ARE electric over hydraulic. Approaching 2000 hours with no significant issues to date
Thanks to everyone who has responded. It sounds like the WM is a great mill, and everyone that I have talked too has had nothing but great things to say about them.
Band mill Bandit, I appreciate your insight on a LT 50-LT 70. I was leaning toward a LT 50, and it is good to hear from someone that they thought there are not much difference. As far as the controls go, would you guys rather have the walk along, or the controls on the end of the mill?
As far as my business goes, I live in NC. I plan on beginning with a portable sawmill business. I actually own 10 acres of some really pretty poplar. I plan on select cutting, sawing, and drying some to sell, and expanding into other species as well. There is nowhere to buy a piece of dried cherry, or walnut. You can go to Lowes and buy dried popular and oak, but you better take your first born with you. At one time, a 1x10x96 oak board was $50.00. Also, where I live, it is the logging capital on the east coast. There are plenty of cutters available to buy timber from. I live among a bunch of farmers and landowners who own lots of timber. i have already done some market research and it is favorable. I am in need to build some out buildings, so the way I figure I could saw my own lumber from my land and save enough to pay for a good used mill.
My family has been in the sawmill industry for 4 generations. I grew up around a old meadows circular mill. I was logging a 518 cat before I was 16, and hauling logs to the mill when I was 21. My uncle asked if I wanted to drive the truck, I told him yes, and he said " then get your a$$ in there and go". So, I did. I didn't even have a cdl. So, needless to say, I understand how much work this will be. But, it is honest work.
I have found a 2009 LT 50 in FL with 1200 hours. It has a Cat diesel, debarker, and the walk along controls. The asking price is 32K. The pictures look like it is in good shape, with just a little surface rust. Is this a far price?
The best thing to do on the price of the used LT50 mill is send a note to Marty Parsons here on the forum with the mills VIN. He will be able to give you pretty good idea on price and other things about that particular mill.
As far as stationary or walk along;
I have walk along and a seat and am happy with my system BUT would go with wireless remote if I were to buy a new mill. The seat is VERY handy for an ageing body when you are in a real good run of timber with REAL GOOD help that allows you to stay in the seat. IF your on and off the seat all the time, park the seat.
When you get to cutting unique and specialty stuff the seat is a pain in the back side.
My mill is 2007 and it paid for it self in 3 years and 4 months.
The Cat engine is a good engine (its actually a Perkapillar) but I would sooner have the Yanmar or Kubota in that order and then the Perkapillar which tends to a bit on the thirsty side compared to the Yanmar.
I think you are on the right track from what you have posted. Good luck and be aware that you are about to embark on a life changing, terminal adventure.
Terminal adventure :D.
I will say that in my personal experience recently buying a Cooks mill never once in all the conversations I had with them over the phone or in person did they ever say anything negative, or even anything, about any other mill company.
Which is the way that it should be. Cook's is a top notch sawmill manufacturer.
I agree, see my earlier post.
Even tho I am orange, I have had several positive experiences with Cooks regarding their blades.
I used some and had a good overall result, but have gone back to exclusively WM because of resharp.
cant speak to the mills tho because I dont know anything personally about them.
Cooks people are cut from the same cloth as Woodmizer people!
As an old friend of my Dad's used to say "Thems good peoples! Good as Purple!" I think the use of the word purple was reference to the new testament story of Dorcas.
BB- not to hijack the thread, I have never heard that before but interesting to hear. I know purple has always been associated with royalty since it was so expensive to create the dye from sea snails.
Quote from: ReinkeFandS on March 03, 2017, 03:39:45 PM
I will say that in my personal experience recently buying a Cooks mill never once in all the conversations I had with them over the phone or in person did they ever say anything negative, or even anything, about any other mill company.
It looks to me like they are based in Alabama only. How did they get the mill to you? Wondering how to get one to New York if I wanted one. I've never seen a mill on RT. 81 but it must happen.
My recollection of purple in the New Testament is that a lady named Lydia was a seller of purple. But point taken. When it comes to the name Cook, both the people and the machinery are good.
Quote from: Darrel on March 04, 2017, 01:23:35 PM
My recollection of purple in the New Testament is that a lady named Lydia was a seller of purple. But point taken. When it comes to the name Cook, both the people and the machinery are good.
Yes Darrel I stand corrected! Thanks for pointing it out.
I like BBs point by point analysis, every body else good too!
Here's another relevant question for y'all then.
We all got a habit of supporting our choices. And we all have issues with our mills - normal, because every mill is a series of compromises and has design limitations around what it does well, what it does okay, and things we need to work around or just wish they'd set it up different.
So my question would be what don't you like/ what would you like to see different on your mill?
Me, I got a mill design in my head, which has this turner system from these guys here, and that clamping system from those guys there, and the setworks from another lot, and build strength of those guys etc etc.. What you've seen done better somewhere else is often tellin.
Quote from: longtime lurker on March 04, 2017, 04:15:37 PM
Here's another relevant question for y'all then.
We all got a habit of supporting our choices. And we all have issues with our mills - normal, because every mill is a series of compromises and has design limitations around what it does well, what it does okay, and things we need to work around or just wish they'd set it up different.
So my question would be what don't you like/ what would you like to see different on your mill?
Me, I got a mill design in my head, which has this turner system from these guys here, and that clamping system from those guys there, and the setworks from another lot, and build strength of those guys etc etc.. What you've seen done better somewhere else is often telling.
Very Good Question Lurker!
Personally and based on the ownership of and 2007 LT40HDG28
1st; I should have bought an LT40 Super OR and LT50. My mill is pretty much a Lt40 Super after the mods I have done to my mill mostly with WM parts and few off the shelf items I liked better.
2nd; The lube tank that came on my mill was a piece of junk and could have been biggar. Wasn't the first mod cause it worked OK but after 3 new tanks and a 4th one due at about $50 each, I had enough and fixed it permanent
3rd; The need to use the hydraulics doesn't happen often but it does happen. Full time power to the pumps is a convenience thing I did when I added the second pump to my mill.
4th; FAOs should be a standard feature IMHO. I added them as per the post I added to the forum when I did the mod. Wood mizer factory FAOs are good but i do like mine better.
5th; conductor size to motors was adequate but not as robust as I think it should be so I up sized them at least 1 size to provide better supply to the motors.
6th; have not modded this BUT I would like the chain turner. The claw turner and the clamp work well together and I don't know that chain turner would be faster than the way I can turn timber/cants now.
7th; The bi-plane clamp is great but needs a removable set of picks to deal with the slippery logs. I made me a set that works well.
8th; The wood mizer laser is well designed BUT being red it is kinda useless unless you are under cover. I order the mounting parts from WM and then played with different types of lasers till I found a green one that I liked. Because I am running a pretty high power laser module I also added an adjustable momentary shutoff relay to the switch circuit of the laser so that the laser can NOT be left on by mistake. My laser stay on for 7 seconds and then shuts off.
NONE of my mods really did any major changes to the mill and really only improved on what WM already had. An LT40 Super or an LT50 would have eliminated the need to do most of the mods I did.
In hind site buying one model up from what I thought I needed would have saved me a LOT of time and money to get my mill where I feel I have a productive mill that will out last me.
Thanks B.B., my old girl is the same: good for what she is but been fine tuning/ improving/ upgrading since the day we got it because it wasn't designed to do what we do with it.
RE your point 6, if I ever needed an under deck turner I reckon the best idea I've seen is a pilous. Both arms are independently adjustable, armed with two of these I reckon you could tackle the ugliest log ever and do it softly rather then having it thumping around on the deck. Take some serious hydraulics to work them though I'd imagine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32746/IMG_1852.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1488743355)
I have a Cooks mill but also like the WM mills as we have used them at the Paul Bunyan show for the classes that are taught. My neighbor down the road has a WM and he and I are always talking about our mills and have talked about picking out the best things on each mill to create a mill that would have the best of each brand. You have to drive to Dothan, Alabama to pick up the mill from Cooks. One thing I learned from my neighbor that I really like about WM is that they have a person who will come by once a year for maintenance on your mill. I think that is a good selling point, but don't think you will wrong with either mill. I have had no issues with my Cooks in the three years I have owned it.
How would I change design?
One thing and this is strictly a personal preference, I sit on an old drafting table stool and the control panel is too high to see over, I would like it a little lower. It seems it is designed for standing.
My way around this is to swing the panel in slightly so I can peek around it without craning my neck too much.
I also saw with most of the guards off so I can better blow the sawdust out.
Havent thought about it much, but maybe it is time to go thru the useful sawmill mods thread again.
I've been looking around and thinking about buying a mill to use as a side business. I like the look of the EZ Boardwalk but it's not hydraulic. If I were going to spend $15k or more I was thinking about the D&L Timber Technologies swing blade mill. I was wondering if anyone here has experience with those.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on March 06, 2017, 08:20:23 AM
How would I change design?
One thing and this is strictly a personal preference, I sit on an old drafting table stool and the control panel is too high to see over, I would like it a little lower. It seems it is designed for standing.
My way around this is to swing the panel in slightly so I can peek around it without craning my neck too much.
I also saw with most of the guards off so I can better blow the sawdust out.
Havent thought about it much, but maybe it is time to go thru the useful sawmill mods thread again.
I think a periscope would be ideal for you. One that attaches to your face hands free so you can run the controls. It would most likely be OHSA approved too I bet.
On a serious note, did you know on the command control models there is a set screw that prevents the control thing from swinging fully? once you take that out it's game over.
Plantman, you may want to start a new thread on this. And WELCOME.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on March 06, 2017, 08:20:23 AM
I also saw with most of the guards off so I can better blow the sawdust out.
Havent thought about it much, but maybe it is time to go thru the useful sawmill mods thread again.
Pete you a BAD boy sawing with the guards off. Guards are designed to protect.
The only thing a machine manufacturing company can't protect you from is YOURSELF!
Get a taller stool or build a platform to set your stool on. A lot easier than moving the controls.
Look at this guys lack of shields. Posted on the sawmill fb page this morn.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/portablemills/permalink/1122019401242130/
that looks like a disaster in progress even if the mill does cut decent lumber.
Scary vid.
Dont look like that was taken in the good old USA.
my Blade guards are in place but others off.
I and my helpers are careful, but Maybe i am just lucky.
I thought about a platform to raise the stool.
I am not a midget, but not very tall either and climbing up even a little higher many many times all day doesnt appeal to me.
I drilled a hole in the control module post for a pin to keep the module where I want it.
How many out there have their helpers walk in front of the sawdust chute even after schooling them in this regard??
I say, "Stay away from the sawdust chute, I've seen things come out of there that would ruin your day." And I tell them about broken bands and all. And there they go, it's almost as if they want to see first hand what sort of thing could ruin their day.
Seems like human nature to unconsciously temp fate. It's weird.
A broken blade does not have to come out of the sawdust chute.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1244.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1474590409)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1245.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1474590344)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1246.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1474590357)
It can also make it's own opening. :o
Pete, that vidja was taken in Belize iirc.
I love that the guy is wearing flip flops too lol lol
I don't know whether he doesn't know better, doesn't care, or can't attain boots.
WOODMIZER ;D ;D
I have a wm lt40. That being said, the only reason I have a wm is because I couldn't find a used ac 36 in my 6mo. sawmill search. I often think about what it would take for me to be really happy with my mill. Imho I would have to put a 50hp+ diesel on it, mount a engine driven hyd pump, hyd feed and up down motors, chain turner, and I would be much happier.
JB, it sounds like what you really want is a LT Super 70
Currently I own a Norwood lumbermate 2000. It has been an excellent hobby mill however i was thinking on expanding and developing a business. I have been looking at the LT 50 and LT 40 Super Hydraulic, but unable to decided. Other then the log Turner Chain vs dawg. What is the main differences? I would be wanting a Diesel engine, debarker, and stationary control Center.
Anyone have an opinion on either machine?
Chain turner and vertical backstops are the only difference.
Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 17, 2018, 01:30:44 PMChain turner and vertical backstops are the only difference
and the fine adjust outriggers are included in the 50, $1000 extra on the 40.
That must be a new(er) thing. Not sure the FAOs were around when the 50 was introduced.
I feel that they should discontine the 40 super. 100% go with the 50. That claw turner is a joke and the sideways stops are silly, they dont go up high enough and arent as easy to get cants square.. 50 or bust, thank me later. I had a 40 super and upgraded to the 70 super wide and if I could I'd buy two.
Just curious, does the 50 come with 2 hydraulic pumps?
I'd go with 50 loaded up including wireless remote. You will never regret it.
Yes MM it has 2 pumps.
It does (come with two pumps).
WM LT50 or better if I was using my money. WM LT 70 Super if I was using someone else's money. :D
The 50 isn't that much more than a 40 super and by time you add every thing to the 40 super that come stock on the 50 you end up getting the chain turner and the vertical backstops for free. Especially if the 50 is on sale.
I too am curious. What I am curious about is why do you need two pumps? I have an AC 36 and it only has one pump, and I can see no need for a second pump. This is a full hydraulic mill.
I have read this whole thread, and there have been some valid points made. One being that if you don't plan on having at least one other person or preferably two others you won't be able to fully put the AC 36 or its Woodmizer equal to the test.
I am very satisfied with my mill, but I don't care for the engine, (Perkins, Cat, Perkapiller) what ever you want to call it, but you are going to get that basicly same engine with either the big Cooks or the big Woodmizer. I too would prefer a Yanmar or a Kubota.
The part about Woodmizer mills not cutting good lumber is shear nonsense, they wouldn't still be in business if they were not an excellent mill. I have helped Magicman on a project and I bought Woodmizer cut lumber to deck out the roof of my oldest sons house when osb board went through the roof 15 or so years ago.
I am set up stationary under a mill shed, have roller tables to move lumber and slabs, if I were going to go mobile, I would probably get a cantlever Woodmizer. I never thought I would say that. Banjo
The first hydraulic WMs had one 12v hydraulic pump. When they started offering the Super, they added another pump. I'm not sure you can get a single 12v pump as big as the two combined, at least not for the same price.
Redneckman
You may message @kelLOGg (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=3036) . He lives in Durham area I believe. He has a Cooks mill. Not sure if it is hydraulic. He may know someone close that has a Cooks that is hydro.
Mine is not hydraulic but I think there is an AC36 owner near Pittsboro. Redneckman, I can inquire around if you would like.
Bob
The second pump Doubles your oil flow capacity to 6 Gal per Minute (i think its 6) and that is a significant productivity gain. That second pump and the larger faster feed and lift motors pretty much doubled my daily productivity.
Twice I have had a pump failure. Both times I plugged the non working pump and continued sawing using only one pump. I can assure you that I felt handicapped and was glad to get the second pump back working and get back up to full speed. For me, two is better. ;D
The hydraulic pump on the AC 36 is powered with a belt from the engine...not electrical. The pump runs everything except the blade. It is a fairly large pump, but with a 62 horsepower motor there is plenty of juice to run everything.
If I understand it right, the dual pumps on the mizers gives it more flow, but no more pressure, so only the speed of the hydraulics is affected, not the strength, is that right. Just the fact that you can still run and use your hydraulics when a pump goes down, counts for something.
Same pressure.
Not intended to interrupt the conversation,
What blade to use on a Woodmizer band mill in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100127.0)
D
It's a no brainer. Cook's is WAY better.
Quote from: bozzaa69 on March 21, 2018, 09:57:22 AM
It's a no brainer. Cook's is WAY better.
:D :D I don't know Bozzaa? I have had the opportunity to run side by side with a Cooks mill and I was impressed! They are a good mill, BUT cut for cut I out cut the cook mill by about 25% log for log. The Cook mill was an MP32 with a 25HP Kohler if I remember right so may not be a fair comparison.
For loading logs and off bearing Id take my mill hands down every time.
I've owned three different brands, and the "Nuts and Bolts" of the Woodmizer mill seem to be of better quality, don't rust and strip, and generally aren't affected by the vibrations caused when milling. As for the big things (design and engineering), all companies will tout their advantages, and some are justified. For a mobile sawyer, my primary concern is the customer's happiness first. Little things with the Woodmizer add up. The sawdust chute allows me to lay down a tarp and easily clean up a mess from a well kept yard/site. It produces clean cuts (a well kept mill from most manufacturers will, with an experienced sawyer), I have never had a breakdown while sawing, and the design of the mill bed saves my back, and the backs of my helpers for sure. I also like the blade pressure gauge found on most WM saws. It is vital to the production of good cuts when sawing different species, using new and reshaped blades.
I personally know several sawyers who use the lt35 for everyday milling;they do some if not all off site customs jobs, and they also love their mills. For the 22k price tag, you can get into the business on the cheap, and if things don't work out, you can sell it and not lose an arm and a leg. I was offered 25k for my lt40hd35 last weekend by a customer who was amazed with the mill. It is four years old, and I purchased it for 28k when new. That's resale value!
Before spending a fortune, spend some time talking, looking, and try to go to a show (one is in Richmond during May), when you can see and touch mills working side by side. All mills are as good as the sawyer, and site preparedness is the biggest factor in production, in my opinion. Support equipment, room to stack, and a place to keep or sell the product, will have the biggest effect on the bottom line. Educating your customer before you arrive to saw is also HUGE! Nothing is worse than pulling up to a "Death Pile" of haphazardly stacked logs, none of the promised help on site, and none of the promised support equipment from the customer. My woodmizer backs easily, pulls easily, and produces a lot of lumber if all the pieces come into place. Organization, organization, support equipment, support equipment, and competent help are all necessary to make everyone happy and turn a profit for you. I apologize for the long post, but if you do the homework, it will save you a ton of heart aches. Trust me, I know...
Quote from: redneckman on March 01, 2017, 07:33:23 AM
Hello Sawyer brothers. I have always wanted to buy m very own hydraulic bandsaw mill to start a small business. Last week, the company that I have worked for for 23 years laid me and about 500 other good people off. SO, I am taking the opportunity and money that they are paying me to leave to buy my mill. 8)
I have seen Wood Mizers in person. They are a fine looking mill. I know a lot of you owns them. I have never seen a Cook's mill in person, but I have watched every video that I can find, and read every piece of literature. The Cooks mill looks like a awesome, heavy mill too. For comparison, I am looking at the LT50 / LT70 vs Cooks AC 36 (52 and 62 HP).
I know the Wood Mizer rep says his mill can be set up fast. he Cools guy says that Wood mizers head will bounce along since it is a cantilever style. I was wondering what your thoughts were. Wood mizer vs Cooks? I realize this is like asking which is better, Ford, Dodge, Chevy. However, I would still like to see what you have to say. Thanks for all your help.
@redneckman (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=30977), Have you considered the Baker Products 3665D mill at all. I think you would be doing yourself injustice to not give it a look. It is a solid mill built for longevity and production?
Boker for the class of mill you are considering the ORANGE PAINT is a couple of rungs up the ladder above ALL the other band mills built in NA.
Any rep that tells you the cantilever head is a problem has NO CLUE what he is talking about.
IF and I mean IF you can find an owner that will corroborate that preposterous claim, let any experienced and meticulous owner that knows how to keep the mill in top form at that mill for an hour or 2 and the mill will be cutting like new again IF it hasn't been beat to a pile of scrap. This is a principle that applies to most well built mills.
There are some people that should never be allowed near equipment of any kind much less own it. Those are the people that the disaster stories are written by.
From your limited description of your ideas, I would go with the LT50 with a full load of options including wireless remote. An LT70 won't give you a lot more production over a year.
When your looking for a John Deere dont settle for a Massey.
I've watched Cooks mills saw logs and I've looked at the lumber for quality of cut and It is just as good as any other mill out there and better than some. Five years ago when I was in the market for a mill, I also heard a Cooks rep make the bogus claim that the cantilever head was unstable and I walked away. How could I trust anything else they said? Cooks really needs to have a meeting with all their reps and tell them to strike this bit of Bologna from all conversations both inside and outside their organization. It is only hurting them. They may have a better mill then Wood-Mizer but when they promote untrue statements like this I quit listening.
I am amazed that this topic fired back up a year since I began the post. Just so everyone knows, around 3/20/17, I put a deposit down on a brand new WM 47hp LT50 wide. I took ownership of the mill in June 2017. My business is a protable sawmilling business. If it grows, I will one day buy a stationary mill.
Just so everyone knows, I really like the looks of the Cooks and the Baker Mills. And, I think for a permanent set up on concrete, I would prefer a 4 post mill over the cantilever design. Maybe as time goes on, I will love the WM so much that I will change my mind about that. However, for now it seemed to me that the WM was easier to move and set up. Plus, WM resale value is extremely high. If my business goes belly up, I need to be able to get as much of my investment back as I can.
I did call Cooks and talk to a person about thier mills. I don't rememeber who it was. However, they sounded more interested in getting off the phone than answering my questions. That really turned me off. I have since called back and talked to a really nice lady about thier blades, but this was after I bought my mill. Plus, Cooks is 9 hrs away from me. That could be a issue if I ever need my mill worked on.
When I posted this, Magic man's response got me leaning toward a Wood Mizer. I then called Joe with Woodmizer of the Carolinas. Joe talked to me on several occasions and answered all my questions. He never acted like he was in a hurry, and was extremely professional. Since I live about 90 minutes from Woodmizer of the Carolinas, that weighed heavily on my decision to go with a WM. The deciding point came when Joe explained to me about how dual rail mills (2 and 4 post) uses stabiliers on each rail. If one of the stabilizers sink in the gound to the point that the rail is not supported, the bed will twist as the head travels back and forth. This will cause the saw to cut a twist in the board. I knew eaxactly what he was saying since I have looked at almost every brand for a long time. I thought about setting the mill on soft ground and I could see it being a hassle to keep checking. I want to offer my customers a great service, at a great price, producing high quality lumber. If I am constantly adjusting the mill, I cannot do this, nor be profitable. Joe was clear that mills with two rails will cut great, true lumber as long as you are constanlty checking to make sure it is level and supported. And, like I said before, if I was setting a stationary mill up on a foundation, I would seriously consider a twin rail design. I know there will be someone who reads this and calls it total B.S. However, in my day job I am a mechanical engineer and what Joe said makes perfect sence to me.
As for the cantilever head diving, etc, I will say that is B.S. I "semi" set my mill up this past weeked and cut one log to try out a blade. When I say "semi", I put the forward and rear outrigger down only and eyeballed the mill close to level. I left the other outriggers up. It cut a perfect flat cut with a new blade. With a dull blade, it will cut a wavy cut, but all mills will do that. There are a few design elements of the WM that I am not a fan of, but the head diving is not a issue.
I've had my Super bolted to concrete for 8 years. Love it. I have the stationary legs.
I need to bolt my 70 down and put stationary legs on it, I have it ratchet strapped to a 6x6 buried in the ground because when I load logs it pushes it around. But it's got alot to do with my aalf hss setup
Redneckman:
You are absolutely right. Last year I improved the stabilizers on my Enercraft for set up. Large heavy boards under the feet. I then used a laser level prior to milling. Not long into the work I was finding when I raised the head close to max ( 4 post) then began a new log it lowered unevenly. Mine has 2 chains on front and 1 at the back. One front chain would go slack til near the bottom.
As heavy as the frame is I never thought it could twist. This drove me nuts until I realized what it was. With the vibration and logs rolling on it's constantly moving.
This year I'm hoping to get it in a dedicated building and on a pad. It takes very little twist to start this problem.
Wish I'd joined here a lot earlier. :)
Great folks at Woodmizer Carolina. You will enjoy your dealings with them. Don't forget the Logrite!
Yep, I got me a 48" Logrite painted a pretty Woodmizer orange. Lately, I have been getting some BIG oak logs (36" + diameter). I think I will need a bigger Logrite. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3034.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1502468116)
Yup, one Logrite leads to two and soon there will be SIX.
Each size is designed to handle different log diameters. logrite_cool
I am new here and have lurked for some time. 1st of all, I can't say enough how wonderful this forum is and the knowledge base is second to none. I've been considering and researching a mill purchase for a number of years. There is not much competition in my area and have decided to take the dive. I've been a custom furniture maker, as a hobby, for a long time and like to work. I'm setting up a kiln and will be handling custom moldings as well. I've decided to go with Wood-Mizer, but here's my question. I'll be buying an LT50, but my dilemma is wide head or not? I can buy a 1 year old low hour LT50 with the Yanmar diesel for 10K less than a new 50 gas with a wide head. I'd really like to have the wide head, but is the capability worth the extra green? Thanks for any help.
Quote from: Darrel on March 21, 2018, 07:20:01 PM
Five years ago when I was in the market for a mill, I also heard a Cooks rep make the bogus claim that the cantilever head was unstable and I walked away.
As I was shopping for a sawmill, I had two different sales reps spend more time talking poorly about the competition than selling the features of their brand. They mentioned one brand more than others.
I had a tractor sales rep spend more time talking about the competition than showing me why I needed his brand.
In both cases I went and looked at the ones they were talking about. I bought from them.
boonesyard, My opinion and it is worth exactly what you pay for it. Even though I would love to have a widehead, I have 15 successful sawing years behind me with a standard width sawmill. $10K is a bunch of jingle and that Yanmar will "tote the mail" for you.
You will loose whatever warranty that has already been used up, but there is not too much to go wrong with the LT50, plus everything has proven itself for that year. How many hours are on the sawmill?
And Welcome to the Forestry Forum. :)
In my way of thinking, a wide head with a gas engine wouldn't be worth 10 grand over a regular head with a Yanmar diesel. Unless you are likely to need the the wide head often. And if I was going to really need the Widehead I think I'd spend the extra and get the diesel ona new. All that being said, that sounds like a really sweet deal on that used mill. .
The used saw only has 56 Hrs. It's a crazy good deal with everything I've been researching. I guess they didn't have time to use it. The only, and I mean only reason I would consider the new wide head option is the current popularity of this live edge slab craze. I'll be sawing a lot of large Burr and Red oak along with Black and Green ash. I appreciate your opinion and help. Thanks
Boonesyard, Magicman is right on! A 36' log is a big log!
The diesel and just 56 hours! That's a deal you shouldn't pass up!
Just giving this a little more thought, you might be able to buy the used LT50 today and sell it tomorrow for 5k more than you paid for it and put the prophet tword the mill you really want.
I have sawn many live edge slabs within the past month. 26" two live edge ain't bad, plus sets of book matched one live edge to me is even better.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3995.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1520904749)
Here is a Red Oak.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_3921.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1519063322)
Pecan slabs e/w .22 bullets. Sadly I apparently did not get a picture of the one live edge Walnut that I did last week.
The point is that being able to saw 26" is not bad and you can turn out some mighty nice lumber/slabs.
I also would not consider a widehead without a Diesel engine.
OK, I've made my decision. Used 2017 LT50 w/35.9 hp Yanmar and 56 actual hours, Debarker, Lubemizer and 10 new blades, I'm making the call know. Thanks Everyone! Will post pics of the knew set-up.
PS. I've got to make a 20 hour trip to pick it up, but my wife and I haven't been away for some time, we'll make a good trip of it.
I don't think you can go wrong with that. I'm with Darrel. You will have a well bought mill to bargain with if you want to upgrade later. As my father likes to say, a cow well bought is a cow half sold. :D
Boonesyard,
My mill is a 2017 LT50 47 HP Yanmar with the wide head. I can cut a 33" wide slab. Here is the little dirty secret; a standard kitchen table is 36" wide. So, even with a wide head, I cannot cut a slab large enough to make a standard table. I acutally had a guy to call me who had a cherry log that he wanted 36" slabs out of it to make some doors. I tried to expalin to him that one 36" wide slab is no where near as stable as two book matched 18" slabs glued together. So, in so many words a wide head WM is not the answer to all sawing prayers. I bought the wide head because I was buying a new one, and the $800 extra was pennies compared to the cost of the mill (dont get me wrong, $ 800 is alot of money to me). I just figured it being a wide head would increase the resale value if I ever need / want to sell it. I have logs in my pile now that my mill will not cut. I am thinking about a chainsaw slabing mill. We will see.
I agree with what others have said; I would prefer a diesel if I have the choice. My mill has a joke of a fuel tank on it (only holds about 4 gallons), but it will run at hard sawing for 6+ hours on a tank. That is pretty cheep. IMO, the Yanmars are the way to go.
Good luck on your new mill.
Quote from: redneckman on March 22, 2018, 06:45:19 PMI am thinking about a chainsaw slabing mill.
Good luck on your new mill.
Re-think! Some logs are meant to burn. :D :D :D :D
It is a never ending slippery slope.
Only 56 hours concerns me, it sounds too good to be true, I think a call to woodmizer will let you know if they have had to do any work on it. It sounds like it has one of the tier 4 motors, too bad it was not a year older, but still should be cheaper operating than the gas over the long haul.
Has anybody ever checked on the price of the wide head, if woodmizer would sell it seperatly, I bet it would be way cheaper than the 10,000?
WM does not offer the wide head parts separately.
Quote from: redneckman on March 22, 2018, 06:45:19 PM
My mill has a joke of a fuel tank on it (only holds about 4 gallons), but it will run at hard sawing for 6+ hours on a tank. That is pretty cheep. IMO, the Yanmars are the way to go.
Good luck on your new mill.
Maybe thats why I think I burn more fuel compared to my to my Kohler.
The other mill would hold a little over 5 gallons.
I'm thinking now my Yanmar tank holds under 5 gallons.
I called WM about the tank on mine. I was wanting to get one of the yellow can types that would hold more fuel. They told me that it was all part of the new EPA regulations. Kind of funny that zero turn mowers have two 5 gallon + tanks and a much smaller engine. At least, my engine does not use the DEF fluid. I have already checked into getting a bigger tank. I would like one that would hold enough fuel for a solid 8-10 hours of saying at least. When my mill is out of warranty, I will be changing it.
Odd that epa would have a limit on the size of tank, aren't they claiming that is why they don't offer a bigger engine any more too though.
I read somewhere that the epa decided that some of the larger engines offered were too large for the intended sawing purpose. :-\ :-X
They didn't say that, but it wouldn't surprise me.
It just goes to show how much the people making these laws knows nothing about what they are talking about. A overloaded, smaller HP engine will put off more exhaust, and consume more fuel than a higher HP engine that is running under the same load.
Boonesyard, good choice. For the $10k you saved, you could get a dedicated slabbing mill to go with it for the real big ones. ;)
Quote from: redneckman on March 22, 2018, 06:45:19 PMI am thinking about a chainsaw slabing mill. We will see.
They're never quite big enough. I can cut 4' wide and then run into something bigger or a nice crotch piece I'd like to keep intact. I'm already thinking about adding an Alaskan for what the Lucas can't handle. :)
Found this on the net...
3.3.1 Non-Road Diesel Engine and Fuel Standards
EPA regulations establish four tiers of emission standards for new non-road diesel engines. Tier 1 emission standards were issued in 1994 for most large (greater than 50 horsepower (hp)), land-based non-road diesel engines used in agricultural and construction equipment. These were phased-in between 1996 and 2000. In 1998, EPA promulgated Tier 1 standards for smaller (< 50 hp) diesel engines, which were phased-in between 1999 and 2000. At that time, EPA also issued more stringent Tier 2 emission standards for all non-road diesel engine sizes, with a 2001- 2006 phase-in, and Tier 3 standards for new diesel engines between 50 and 750 hp, with a 2006 - 2008 phase-in.
In 2004, EPA promulgated regulations that integrate new non-road diesel engine emission standards (Tier 4 standards) with requirements to decrease the allowable levels of sulfur in non-road diesel fuel. The regulations set emission standards for engines used in most construction, agricultural, industrial, and airport equipment beginning in 2008. Fuel requirements will decrease the sulfur levels in non-road diesel fuel to prevent damage to emission-control systems. Current sulfur levels of about 3,000 ppm will be reduced to a maximum of 500 ppm in 2007. The second phase will reduce sulfur levels in non-road diesel fuel to 15 ppm in 2010, except for locomotive and marine diesel fuel, which will be reduced to 15 ppm in 2012.
I agree. I thought about making a bar from laminating three pieces of steel together, making a carriage and powering it with a vertical shaft lawnmower engine, or something like that. I would not be using it often, but when a customer with a oversized log that is too big for most mills wants it cut, it would be a opportunity to charge a premium to cut it, and it would give the customer a service that is hard to find. Around here, 48"-60" oaks, maples, and cherrys are not uncommon. I have a 48" white oak growing in the corner of my yard now. I had one guy to call me and he claimed to have a 72" maple. That one would have been be a good black powder candidate.
Quote from: starmac on March 22, 2018, 08:28:13 PM
Only 56 hours concerns me, it sounds too good to be true, I think a call to woodmizer will let you know if they have had to do any work on it. It sounds like it has one of the tier 4 motors, too bad it was not a year older, but still should be cheaper operating than the gas over the long haul.
Has anybody ever checked on the price of the wide head, if woodmizer would sell it seperatly, I bet it would be way cheaper than the 10,000?
I did find this through a Wood-Mizer dealer. While I was on the phone with them, this rig rolled in. This dealer sold it new and new all about the machine. The outfit bought it new last year and ended up not having any time to use it. I'm buying it as a consignment sale. I guess one of those "right time right place" deals :laugh:.
It is a tier 4 engine, is that going to be a big deal? Less power? Less fuel Economy? More problems?
Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 22, 2018, 05:15:13 PM
As my father likes to say, a cow well bought is a cow half sold. :D
😂😂😂
They are less horsepower than the older ones, how much of that you actually feel, I do not know.
From what I understand they are naturally aspirated., so will lose a little more power at higher altitudes, and I don't see how they can be as efficient.
I have heard of no complaints of people having problems with them.
The Goat could tell you about that engine. He has it on his LT40 Widehead.
Quote from: boonesyard on March 22, 2018, 04:48:01 PM
OK, I've made my decision. Used 2017 LT50 w/35.9 hp Yanmar and 56 actual hours, Debarker, Lubemizer and 10 new blades, I'm making the call know. Thanks Everyone! Will post pics of the knew set-up.
PS. I've got to make a 20 hour trip to pick it up, but my wife and I haven't been away for some time, we'll make a good trip of it.
Well, a good day. I made the deal on the new saw today. I consternated over the wide head option, but decided to take everyone's recommendation and go with the great buy on this diesel equipped saw over a new saw with the wide head. I called today and made the deal and found out it also has the wide head option ;D. Can't beat that! I'm making the 20 hr. trip the weekend after easter to pick it up on Monday, April 9th. Going to be a long 2 weeks, will take pictures as this progresses.
That's great! Congratulations!
How EXCITING!!! Watch all the YouTube videos you can and learn as much as you can about sawing. Watch how they turn, level and clamp logs. Learn as much as you can.
And if nothing else, the time will pass faster.
8)
Well now whataboutthat!! That is falling head first into a bowl of banana pudding (or Grits) for sure. Many Congratulations are in order!! smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
Nanner puddin, no problem, I could eat my way out of a big bowl, probably drown in 2 inches of them there grits. Lordy that would be a terrible way to go.
Good deal on the mill. 8) Only thing I wish is that I could get these grit haters to belly up to a bowl of Georgia Ice Cream. Made some where over around Dahlonega Ga. At least thats where I got some once. We were at a big bluegrass festival there. Might good stuff. Banjo
Did I hear 'nanner puddin' and grits?? Where? Where? Would love some of both. Banana pudding is about my favorite dessert. Wife doesn't make it too often or I would be MUCH fatter than I am already.
Congrats on the new mill. Waiting for pics of its first sawing adventures.
Banjo Picker Dahlonega Ga is where my Momma's family is from. But the best grits come from about 30 miles east of there from Nora Mills. Old water turned grist mill that has been in operation since 1876 or so.
Wow what a deal! Christmas is 2 weeks away! You know what you're getting too!
Quote from: samandothers on March 26, 2018, 10:27:40 PM
Wow what a deal! Christmas is 2 weeks away! You know what you're getting too!
Yes, I think we do. We've been thinking about this for many years, and I think I've got tube wore out watchin sawin'. We're just a little bit sick (we like to work) and know we've just contracted the sawing disease.:o I'm counting on all of you to help me through therapy. Thanks for all you kind words.
That's a great deal, and a fine mill. Did you happen to think of buying a lottery ticket, also? ;D
Smoking deal! Best of luck!!
Quote from: YellowHammer on March 27, 2018, 12:43:17 AM
That's a great deal, and a fine mill. Did you happen to think of buying a lottery ticket, also? ;D
I think that's good advice. We could all have a heck-uva party if we win!!
Well, only 5 days before we leave on our journey to pick up the new saw. We're both really looking forward to the trip and I can't wait to get the saw home and start screwing up (oops, I mean learning :D) how to cut. The weather here has been awful, but I'm confident it WILL warm up.
After we pick up the saw, and head for home, I was thinking I'd like to stop at Wood-Mizer Indiana (since we go through there) to see their facility. Is it worth the stop? If so, should I make an appointment? if so, with anyone in particular? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Absolutely go my WM in Indy. Give them a call when you know your schedule and someone will show you around. That is not where the sawmills are manufactured but the blade facility is there. Also you will get to meet the tech support and parts guys.
Quote from: Magicman on April 01, 2018, 08:33:56 PM
Absolutely go my WM in Indy. Give them a call when you know your schedule and someone will show you around. That is not where the sawmills are manufactured but the blade facility is there. Also you will get to meet the tech support and parts guys.
I bet if you give them enough notice you could have them do an inspection of the mill and they might even give you a couple of hours of training on your mill for you. It would definitely be worth asking.
We'll be picking up the saw at WoodMizer of Carolinas and fortunate in that either Joseph or Tyler will be giving us some training on the saw. They have been wonderful to deal with.
I didn't realize you were picking it up at a dealer. You will be VERY WELL looked after.
Well, I've been so busy I forgot to follow up on the new mill adventure. We had a great trip down to NC. Had a wonderful experience with Wood-mizer Carolinas, what great people. We also had time to stop buy and see Steve at Wood-mizer Wisconsin on our way home. We did 3,122 miles in 5 days. Not a lot of time to site see but weather and roads were good. Would have been really bad had we tried to do it the following week with the weather and snow storm that rolled through. The mill tows like a dream.
A couple happy customers in NC.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49257/Picked_up_mill_in_NC~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1524172684)
Just had to get something on mill ASAP. Had some boxelder, good for practice, everything went well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49257/1st_Day_Practice.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1524171959)
That is one sweet lookin Orange machine! Happy for you!
8)
You will like sawing!!!
Nothing like the smell of a new Woodmizer. 8)
You are now a member of the sawdust addiction support group! NO one, and I mean NO ONE is ever been know to recover from this addiction! It is a very terminally and edifying, addictive disorder.