New saw with the old. Thanks for the info and advice both on the 372 (5) xp and all the info I read on here.
I ended up going with the ms 362 R
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45186/20170301_230456.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1488438464)
And I decided again thanks to this forum and it's sponsors to do a rebuild on the old 048av there... now that I know where to find parts....
Nothing like the first trip to the woods with a brand new saw, 8) like the full wrap. Dont judge it too harshly at first. After about 10 tanks of fuel it will be running strong.
Don't see handles like that around here. :) I betcha you will like it.
It's a west coast thing, works great until it gets mashed and the cover can't be removed.
I want to put a full wrap on my 660. I had a full wrap on my Pro Mac 850 years ago,and I liked it .
You to?
I also got followed by a MS 362 today and I didn't give up before it stood in my livingroom.
Buy it was followed by a pair of Stihl X-treem trousers which Im looking very much forward to use.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44039/File_000.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1488484620)
Put a tank threw it and it is cutting well, the chain froze twice... never had that happen before...
I should have bought some safety chaps....
Is your oiler turned up to max, the output even on max is only fair at best. My 362 c-m pumps TSC bar oil better then the stihl oil.
Yes check the oiler adjustment. Typically they will have it set at the E mark which is not enough oil for any work I have done. The problem is worse the first few tanks with a new bar and chain. Pull out of the cut when you notice the saw bogging down and let it catch up. If the problem persists you can install the hi-cap bar oiler, or do the oiler operator mod which does same thing. Typically that wont be needed on a 20" bar when adjusted wide open but problems occur with longer bars in certain types of wood.
My ms362(2012 model) oils a20" bar great, when turned all the way up...
Oil I set to max before ever starting it, and a 25" bar is on it now I could swap over to the 20"
On my old 048 I noticed that the oil would always run out just before the gas tank would on this saw there's about a six of an oil tank left when the gas hits e....
The orange bottle stihl b&c oil wouldn't be 1/2 way down by the time the gas was near empty. The TSC oil is about 80% empty at the same fuel level and it keeps the chain wet on my 25" bar.
Good looking new saw, hope it works out good for you. My dad has an older manual carb ms362 and although this particular saw never ran as good as his previous 361, it is one of my favorite saws. It is ballenced well (with 20" bar atleast) and is just overall about the smoothest opperating saw I've ever used. It's slightly heavier than my 455 rancher but for some reason I can cut with it longer than the 455 without fatigue.
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on March 03, 2017, 06:15:59 PM
Good looking new saw, hope it works out good for you. My dad has an older manual carb ms362 and although this particular saw never ran as good as his previous 361, it is one of my favorite saws. It is ballenced well (with 20" bar atleast) and is just overall about the smoothest opperating saw I've ever used. It's slightly heavier than my 455 rancher but for some reason I can cut with it longer than the 455 without fatigue.
I tel you, my 362 is a smooth saw....if a guy need a medium size saw that "could" handle a 25" bar and chain occasionally, it would be a great choice....
When I first got the saw, the AV system shocked me....the springs, really keep the vibrations down!!!!
Good all around saw....with a 20" bar it's a beast...
Have now cut 6 trees into rounds for firewood ranging from 10" to 24" at the base.
The last two I put the 20" bar on to test it.... it is a bit more of a handful with the 20 on it... cuts a bit faster too.
Very happy with the purchase so far.... lots more cutting this year so I'll report back after a few more cords are cut...
EDIT: This is also the carb model... I didn't want computers in my saw....