Good evening. Been gone for a while, but, starting to do a little sawing again. Mill has set idle, under cover, for the past 2 years. Had to replace the battery to get the mill to crank and start. However, the battery on the mill will not drive the hydraulic pumps. If I connect a battery charger to the frame and the brass power strip on the side of the mill, the pumps seem to run O.K. So, assuming that I either need to (a) fix the power connection at the brass strip on the side of the mill, or, (b) may have some other breaker or fuse blown in the operator console.
I have confirmed that none of the little breakers on the 4 corners of the operator console have tripped. Seems that I have forgotten what little I knew about what was on the inside of the console. Looking for constructive suggestions on where to start looking.
Thank you!
Shine the contact strip (emery cloth, wire brush, or whatever) and then look and be sure that the spring loaded brass contact button is engaging the strip. If you do not have 12 volts at the contact button, then you have either a fuse or a cable connection problem. The other item in the hydraulic circuit is the spring loaded ground that rides along the bottom rail. The bottom rail needs to be clean/shiny and the ground contact firmly against the bottom rail.
There's two steel fuse strips inside a small box where the main power wires go into the battery. I just cut some steel strapping to replace them.
Quote from: Magicman on March 04, 2017, 08:13:08 PM
Shine the contact strip (emery cloth, wire brush, or whatever) and then look and be sure that the spring loaded brass contact button is engaging the strip. If you do not have 12 volts at the contact button, then you have either a fuse or a cable connection problem. The other item in the hydraulic circuit is the spring loaded ground that rides along the bottom rail. The bottom rail needs to be clean/shiny and the ground contact firmly against the bottom rail.
Mine gets affected by any amount of oil. Wiping it clean with laquer thinner gets it going.
Warren, It wouldn't be the steel strips as your mill wouldn't start. MM has the correct advice, the copper strip and brass block need to be clean.
Don't forget the hydraulic solenoid.
Gentlemen,
I appreciate the quick response. I'll start with buffing the contact strip and bottom rail. Will post back results.
Been gone several years and the place is just as helpful as before... ;D
-w-
I do no believe that the older sawmill models had solenoids. Even with the key off, if the sawmill was/is left at the front of the sawmill, the hydraulics are "hot".
My 2001 has one, well had one, til I got tired of replacing them.
Shined the strip and brass shoe with some emery cloth. Still no hydraulic power. Will check the fuse strips and look to see if I have a hydraulic solenoid. I did find my multi meter over the weekend. Now that I have the multi meter, I may call WM support and have them step me thru it...
Hello,
with a 12 volt test light.
Start at the battery negative to positive check connections
Check at fuse, there should be two fuses on the hydraulic post on a Super ( please dont put metal across the fuse area)
Check across the the two big posts on the solenoid in the fuse block. Ignition key must be on.
Check the Brass contact that moves on the saw head.
With the saw head on the front 6' of the frame, check the contact strip brass should be shiny not green
Remove the hydraulic box cover. On a super there are two solenoids ( same part as in the box) You should have power to one big post on each solenoid.
If you have 12 volt to one of the big terminals on both solenoids then you need to check the micro switch that closes the solenoid connection. You can check this with your volt ohm meter or a test light.
Hope this helps.
Marty
Quote from: MartyParsons on March 22, 2017, 08:14:56 AM
Hello,
with a 12 volt test light.
Start at the battery negative to positive check connections
Check at fuse, there should be two fuses on the hydraulic post on a Super ( please dont put metal across the fuse area)
Check across the the two big posts on the solenoid in the fuse block. Ignition key must be on.
Check the Brass contact that moves on the saw head.
With the saw head on the front 6' of the frame, check the contact strip brass should be shiny not green
Remove the hydraulic box cover. On a super there are two solenoids ( same part as in the box) You should have power to one big post on each solenoid.
If you have 12 volt to one of the big terminals on both solenoids then you need to check the micro switch that closes the solenoid connection. You can check this with your volt ohm meter or a test light.
Hope this helps.
Marty
Sir,
I appreciate the pointers. Been busy. Just found my multi meter yesterday. Hydraulics function just fine when I hook a battery charger to the copper strip (+) and to the frame (-). Copper strip and brass shoe/foot have been polished. I will work my way thru the fuses and solenoid that you mentioned above.
Thank you! Warren
Sounds like the contact (which is spring loaded) needs to be adjusted so it will make positive contact with the copper strip!