After seeing Caveman's wedding benches I decided I was going to try some with some 2" live edge planks so I built a couple of prototypes and think I may build a lot more.
I started with a couple of ash planks I had cut 2" thick and they ranged from about 8"-12" wide and about 5' long. I opted to use the widest face for the top of the bench. I took a 1-1/2" spade bit and angled my mortise cuts so the legs would be slightly wider than the bench and near the end of each bench. Warning - when you drill completely through a spade bit wants to bind. I twisted one so badly it was ruined. I should have started with a spade bit then finished with a Forstner bit or just drilled into a piece of scrap stock. I also messed up the angle on one end and had to cut off about 6" and redrill the mortises there.
I looked through my firewood pile and selected several piece 2"-3" at the little end and about 20" long. Clamped each in my vice a cut a tenon on each end with my drill and tenon maker. I left the bark on the legs. Just made sure the tenon (Dowel part) was over 2" long. I sawed a slot in each with a jig saw for a wedge.
I glued and drove each leg on/through the mortise till it hit the shoulder. I tried driving a wooden wedge in but the slot cut with the jig saw was too thin. If I do this again I will use a wider blade like my circular saw. I could still drive a metal wedge in like on an ax head if the tenon ever loosens.
I put the bench on the mill and put the legs down between the rails of the mill then cut the ends off the tenons. On my first try that left a blade mark and I decided to take off about 1/4" of the whole bench. That did not work as the clamp did not hold and the bench lifted and I destroy my first one. The next time I just decided to sand out the blade mark with a belt sander. That worked okay.
After cutting the excess tenon length off I reversed the bench on the mill, clamped securely and set with band wide and cut off the excess leg length to 17" for each. Then I took the bench off and sanded the top. I will likely try finishing each with some linseed oil.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_0193.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491236817)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_0194.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491236867)
There may be an easier way to cut the excess length than with the mill but this is what I am using right now. As I said, if the tenon shrinks and loosens I can still add a metal tool head wedge.
These benches are very easy to make and another use for the upper parts of the tree above the longer, straighter saw logs. If I were making a long one (8'-10') I'd likely add a 3rd set of legs in the middle.
WV, I like the benches. On some of my long, narrow benches. I added a 5th leg in the center for added support. On two of the benches that I was making, I drilled the mortises a little too deep and installed them like you have purposely done. I used an old B and D sander with a 7" 36 grit disc to quickly remove the proud tenons.
I wish I had a blade with 3-5 tpi that would fit on the lt-28 when sawing the legs even.
When you install the legs with the cut in the tenon for the wedge, make sure the cut is perpendicular to the bench top grain. You want the wedging action NOT to split the grain on the top.
To trim the tenons (when there is a lot to remove), get a Japanese pull-type saw. It only has a set on one side so it can lay flat on the bench top without marking it. You can get a cheap one that should work for a while at HF.
Quote from: caveman on April 03, 2017, 11:06:35 PM
WV, I like the benches. On some of my long, narrow benches. I added a 5th leg in the center for added support. On two of the benches that I was making, I drilled the mortises a little too deep and installed them like you have purposely done. I used an old B and D sander with a 7" 36 grit disc to quickly remove the proud tenons.
I wish I had a blade with 3-5 tpi that would fit on the lt-28 when sawing the legs even.
Order a metal cutting blade for your mill.
Pure tung oil might be another choice. Give it a try.
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/
Caveman,
I just bought the sander for this project and bought some 80 and 120 grit belts. I'll keep my eye open for some 36 grit belts.
ljohn,
Thanks for the advice. I had not thought about the direction of the split. I did not include a split in any except the first. I think I could still drive metal wedges in but the perpendicular suggestion makes good sense now that I think about it. And I'll pick up a Japanese saw at HF the next time I am there.
Danny,
What is the big advantage of tung oil over linseed?
My son made a gun cabinet many years ago out of walnut and finished it with tung oil and it was really pretty. He took some left-over small pieces and finished them and made an "Ammo" box. Added brass latches and hinges and such and showed to his girl friend (now his wife) and said "Look at my ammo box." She said "No, look at my jewelry box." She still has and is still using it.
I have not done thru tenons yet, but when I use plugs to cover screw heads I have used a sander with 60 or 80 grit to quickly sand down. Need to be careful close to bench surface because the 60/80 will scuff and then required more to get marks out. I have moved to using 120 lately to minimize this. Also just picked up the HF japanese pull saw last week but have not tried it out yet.
Take a look at how folks build windsor chairs, if you dry the tennon end in an oven prior to final sizing, it should stay tighter over time.
Lots of good ideas and knowledge on this thread-keep it going.
Danny, thanks for the link to the tung oil. I have used Formby's Tung Oil Finish on small cedar boxes with decent results but I understand that that (Tom) is not pure/straight tung oil. I have a gallon and a half BLO on hand so that will be used on a lot of projects in the near future.
I need to get one of the Japanese saws too. I have used a plunge router with a straight cut bit to remove material from butterflies and tenons relatively quickly too. Lots of ways to skin the cat (old saying).
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 04, 2017, 08:49:35 AM
What is the big advantage of tung oil over linseed?
My understanding is that it dries much faster and with the right applications and coats, will repell water. I have very good results with it.
Thanks Danny. I will try some. Cut some cherry today and will try some on it when it dries a while. One tree was dead but still pretty high RH inside from what i see.
I was in Beckley WV yesterday and stopped at HF and got some 36 grit sanding belts and one of those Japanese pull saws. Looks like it has fine teeth on one side and coarser teeth on the other. Will see how it works.
I'm thinking the next project may be to try a couple of stools along the same design from some short crotches or other cuts.